What did you do to your Ranger today?

[Bob902]

Added Kilmat 50 mil sound deadening to all 4 doors today.
Holy cow - what a difference.
Bugged the crap out of me how the doors sounded like a tin can when you close it. There was no sound deadening in any of the doors. Now they close with a solid thud.

Minimal weight added.
Each front door took 4 sheets and the rear doors were 3 1/2 sheets.
I didn't do any deadening on the inside panels, they have the factory foam sheet/vapor barrier. I'm sure the door panels could take a little to improve them but I was working to eliminate the cheap sound when you close the door.

This is an easy, fairly cheap upgrade. I'm glad I did mine.

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[DukeCanBuildit]

Slapped some new shoes on it that I got from @Ian-NH the end of last week.

-18 offset 18x9 method mr316s wrapped in 275/65 general grabbers.

Got a wicked good deal, thanks man!

I’m pretty sure you meant +18mm offset, right?

 

[5G Dan-O]

How hard was it to pull the panels? Keep in mind I'm pretty useless at trim and it seems a bit puzzling to me (but I do have a nice set of trim tools, just no patience to go with it).

I'd love to get rid of that tin sound and maybe gain a bit of insulation for New England winters.

It's not complicated but you will need some patience.
You pop the little trim door off behind the door handle - one Torx 25 screw
Pop the door pull cover off and then remove two Torx 25 screws
2 Torx screws at the bottom edge of the door panel


The 'hard' part is knowing how hard and where to pull on the pull handle cover and the door panel to disengage the plastic retainers.

On the front doors there's a tiny connector that you need to pry the connector out. It's the LED light. You actually pry VERY carefully on the light by the connector and the engagement pin will disengage and the connector will come off. The other connectors are self-explanatory (Squeeze the release tab - connector slides out)

The door handle pops off the door panel, the first one will confuse you, the rest will be wicked easy - it's a great design.

I took the speakers out - three 7mm screws - gives you a ton of extra room to work. Also, the foam vapor barrier is easy to tear so pull it away carefully.

There's got to be a YouTube video of this process I bet.

 

[Blmpkn]

I’m pretty sure you meant +18mm offset, right?

In reality, your probably right.

They identify as '-' though so ?‍ I just go with it.

 

[subquark]

It's not complicated but you will need some patience.
You pop the little trim door off behind the door handle - one Torx 25 screw
Pop the door pull cover off and then remove two Torx 25 screws
2 Torx screws at the bottom edge of the door panel


The 'hard' part is knowing how hard and where to pull on the pull handle cover and the door panel to disengage the plastic retainers.

On the front doors there's a tiny connector that you need to pry the connector out. It's the LED light. You actually pry VERY carefully on the light by the connector and the engagement pin will disengage and the connector will come off. The other connectors are self-explanatory (Squeeze the release tab - connector slides out)

The door handle pops off the door panel, the first one will confuse you, the rest will be wicked easy - it's a great design.

I took the speakers out - three 7mm screws - gives you a ton of extra room to work. Also, the foam vapor barrier is easy to tear so pull it away carefully.

There's got to be a YouTube video of this process I bet.

Thanks for the details and really clear instructions. Knowing the Torx and 7mm sizes is a big help to keep me from running back and forth. And those connectors, that's good info (I probably don't have the LED one - I have an XL, but I certainly have the other one).

Is that vapor barrier attached with like a tar ribbon? Not sure that's what it's called. I had an older car that had a bead of a sticky tarry material that held a plastic sheet in place.

And you even inspired greater confidence in me by saying "wicked!" =)

Thanks!

 

[5G Dan-O]

Thanks for the details and really clear instructions. Knowing the Torx and 7mm sizes is a big help to keep me from running back and forth. And those connectors, that's good info (I probably don't have the LED one - I have an XL, but I certainly have the other one).

Is that vapor barrier attached with like a tar ribbon? Not sure that's what it's called. I had an older car that had a bead of a sticky tarry material that held a plastic sheet in place.

And you even inspired greater confidence in me by saying "wicked!" =)

Thanks!

I was sure you would get the wicked joke.

Yes, the barrier is held on with a sticky rope - sometimes called thumb grade sealer. If you're careful it will come off. It's 85 here today in Central NY State so I bet being a little softer made it easier to come off.

 

[Bob902]

Thanks for the details and really clear instructions. Knowing the Torx and 7mm sizes is a big help to keep me from running back and forth. And those connectors, that's good info (I probably don't have the LED one - I have an XL, but I certainly have the other one).

Is that vapor barrier attached with like a tar ribbon? Not sure that's what it's called. I had an older car that had a bead of a sticky tarry material that held a plastic sheet in place.

And you even inspired greater confidence in me by saying "wicked!" =)

Thanks!

it's a pretty easy job. There is a video on how to do it. It's a guy overseas who also replaced the speakers at the same time.

 

[Bob902]

Thanks for the details and really clear instructions. Knowing the Torx and 7mm sizes is a big help to keep me from running back and forth. And those connectors, that's good info (I probably don't have the LED one - I have an XL, but I certainly have the other one).

Is that vapor barrier attached with like a tar ribbon? Not sure that's what it's called. I had an older car that had a bead of a sticky tarry material that held a plastic sheet in place.

And you even inspired greater confidence in me by saying "wicked!" =)

Thanks!

 

[subquark]

That's getting too fancy for me, but I like it and my wife would love it!

Thanks for the great video!

 

[subquark]

That's getting too fancy for me, but I like it and my wife would love it!

Thanks for the great video!

Crikey hell, yikes, I'm sure I'll break a clip. Ugh ...

Okay, I can do this, just need to be all Zen and extra patient. =)

 

[Bob902]

Crikey hell, yikes, I'm sure I'll break a clip. Ugh ...

Okay, I can do this, just need to be all Zen and extra patient. =)

Just go slow with the clips, not like a Neanderthal like me.?. It really isn't bad and makes a big difference. I doubled up the mat behind the speakers, too. I think it makes the factory stereo sound a little better as well.

 

[FusedLogic]

Added Kilmat 50 mil sound deadening to all 4 doors today.
Holy cow - what a difference.
Bugged the crap out of me how the doors sounded like a tin can when you close it. There was no sound deadening in any of the doors. Now they close with a solid thud.

Minimal weight added.
Each front door took 4 sheets and the rear doors were 3 1/2 sheets.
I didn't do any deadening on the inside panels, they have the factory foam sheet/vapor barrier. I'm sure the door panels could take a little to improve them but I was working to eliminate the cheap sound when you close the door.

That's a great project... thanks for sharing. Did you also install or consider installing the window auto up/down module for the passenger and back doors while you had the panel off?

 

[Dr3wDrop]

That was a great install video. Thanks for sharing!

 

[dapakattack]

David,

Just follow Dan's advice and you'll be fine. I was nervous the first time I removed the door panels thinking I was going to break something on a new truck. Once you do one, you'll be a pro at the others. This video, as others have linked in other threads, will help too:



I believe if you do remove the driver's side window switch then you may have to reteach the system to use the auto up function (the owner's manual details the procedure).

 

[MathGod]

Added the Ford performance exhaust today.


Before and After Install:

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