Stuck trying to install rear shocks

[jblc]

Bench press it above the mount. Let go. It moves slowly.

It moves rather quickly -- even with the vehicle raised as far as I can, it extends past the cradle in 1/2 second. Definitely not enough time for me to adjust and get the bolt or screwdriver in...

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[jblc]

With the truck on the ground (on tires of course), I placed my jack under the shock and gently lifted it up enough till the bolt slid through...

Thanks. That was the first thing I tried...
Since the shock is at an angle when compressed, and the bottom of the cradle wraps around, the jack either gets caught in the cradle, or keeps shooting back into the rear of the cradle.

 

[Msfitoy]

Thanks. That was the first thing I tried...
Since the shock is at an angle when compressed, and the bottom of the cradle wraps around, the jack either gets caught in the cradle, or keeps shooting back into the rear of the cradle.

It can be done if you have a rubber pad on your jack point...I did this with a Craftsman quick lift jack...

 

[Toytec]

I find it very ironic reading this post as I went through this just yesterday with my new bilsteins
It took several attempts and everything I had, but I benched them up in there. I feel your pain JB, but it can be done!

 

[Msfitoy]

Another tactic that might work...jack up the rear of the truck until the wheels are off the ground...place on jacks...jack up axle one side at a time until it lines up with strut and slide bolt through...do the same with other side...lower truck off jack...

 

[Delirious]

Thanks. Actually i tried both.

Whatever the ratchet holds on to in the bottom (zip tie, cable, etc), doesn't allow the shock to fit into its cradle -- so i have to release it and pull the connecting material, before trying to seat it.

Inevitably the shock shoots outwards and extends fully, or shoots too far into the cradle. If too far inside the cradle, there is no way to lever it back to align with the hole, to put the bolt in.

I also tried a jack, but the bottom cradle overlaps the bottom of the shock, so I can't lift it into place -- it can only be compressed to the rear/front (depending on the L/R side), but not inside the cradle, so I can't put the bolt in.

Now I am very happy that I paid the $55 to have mine installed! And this was the exact reason I paid!

 

[Big Blue]

I used a 1" wide ratchet tie down strap. Looped it around the shock and oppressed it close to the required length. Once the top was mounted I ratcheted the shock down to the correct length to install the lower bolt. Once both bolts were in I undid the ratchet end of the shock and pulled the strap out. A bit puttsy but work like a dream, once I got it figured out. My days of benchpressing shocks is long gone, now I use my head.

 

[LoneRNGR]

I'm stuck in the middle of trying to install Bilstein 5100s on the rear. How do people compress the shocks enough to mount?

This isn't on a lift.

Reading this thread, I was inspired to just show you how. See the video below:


Edit: The first time I did this, I used a larger screwdriver with a square shaft, which was easier. I was trying to get this video up fast to be helpful and grabbed the first screwdriver in my bag.

 

[Turborave]

I had the same issue with my Eibachs.. i went to home depot got a big ass bar/squeeze clamp and some heavy duty zip ties. got it all compressed and zip tied and it went in easy. i beat my self up for about 4hours trying to get it in. I returned the clamp when i was done with it.. it was about $40.

 

[jblc]

All, first of all, thanks for all your ideas and thoughts
I appreciate people willing to help when someone is stuck mid-install

As an update, and for anyone else trying this in the future: I was able to get them in finally, using the method below.

First, some takeaways:
- Doing this with a lift would be very easy, since the shocks would barely need to be compressed.

- I avoided any possibly unsafe method. To me, an unsafe method included my hands holding a compressed shock-end, since if my fingers or hand get stuck between an expanding shock and the thin sheet metal of the bolt cradle, that could cause me to loose a finger. I know this is a worst-case outcome, but freak accidents sadly do happen...

-A few people suggested using jacking up the shock. I tried several ways to do this before posting (including trying again after others suggested it as well), but I couldn't get it to both hold a tilted/compressed shock securely without shooting out, and also fit into the bolt cradle that blocks my jack's path.
I can see how this could be easy with a different type of jack, or a different top on the jack, etc, but it def didn't work with mine

- doing it with reversed shock orientation would be much easier. I oriented rubber boot down per Bilstein's video, but the other way would allow a ratchet strap to connect to the compressed lower end, in a way that doesn't interfere with sitting into the bolt cradle. In the orientation I had (rod end down), the only way to attach was through something through the bolt hole, which always interfered with a controlled placing of the shock into place.


What i ended up doing would have taken 20 minutes if I knew ahead of time to do this process:

I jacked the truck on the rear frame, even though the manual said not to do that. I just couldn't find any other way, and several others on here also suggested that.

Once jacked up enough, I used the ratchet / ziptie method to expand the shock in the rear of the lower bolt cradle. This didn't work without lifting the vehicle (too much force on the shock-end to maneuver it reliably with the tools I had), but worked fine when on jackstands where the shock needed to be less compressed.

Since i oriented rubber boot down per Bilstein's video, I tied a ziptie into the lower shock end, and attached a ratchet strap between the ziptie and a partially extended upper bolt. Compress ratchet strap until the shock can be swung into place. Then cut the ziptie, and let the shock extend into the back of the bolt cradle.

Very lightly tapping on the rod with a rubber mallet, the rod end was slowly moved to the right alignment. I used a screwdriver on the brake side to help lift the bolt hole into enough alignment that the narrower end of the stock bolt could fit.
I released the shock onto the bolt end, and then re-oriented the screwdriver to go deeper and lift the shock-end more. The bolt could now slide into place halfway, and a wrench could easily drive it in the rest of the way.

Hopefully the above can help someone else out in the future, in the same situation.

 

[LoneRNGR]

Since i oriented rubber boot down per Bilstein's video

Bilstein video is generic. It should be mounted with the sticker/logo upright and readable. This is on the Bilstein website. https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/faq/

"You always want to install our application specific B6 4600 and B8 5100 shocks so the Bilstein labeled on the shock body is reading in the correct orientation. If your shocks have been installed with the stickers on upside down then the shocks should be flipped the other way."​

You can redo it, but to be honest, it doesn't matter.

 

[FoD]

Ever wonder why so many "old timers" had an 8 -12" 4 x4 and other wierd pieces of greasy wood in their garage

 

[2.7EcoBoost]

Hmmm. I removed the spare for extra room, and didn't remember them (Bilstiens) being overly hard to compress. I put the top on and just compressed by hand using slow and steady pressure to get the shock bottom in the mount and then used a flat screwdriver to line it up for the bolt. As far as jacking or placing jack stands on the frame, that is probably more just for safety. A garage lifts your truck by the frame in these points.

 

[apotocki]

Wow. After reading all this I guess I was lucky that I had no issue pushing them in place by hand with the truck on the ground without removing the spare or anything else.

 

[CompDude]

I am 47 and was able to bench press them into place was not too bad but I wouldn't want to do it all day lol

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