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SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

Motorpsychology

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treimche said:
Well I finally made an appointment to have my Ranger's heat problem fixed. I stopped at Ford yesterday since the heat was stuck on even when turning the temp all the way down to low, so that I could show a service writer, but he didn't even want to go take a look, he said he'd just take my word for it. The Ford dealer here can't get it in for a whole month because they're so backed up, but at least I'm still under warranty until late July. I'm not excited about them most likely pulling the dash. Definitely going to be taking pics and videos of before the repair so that if they scratch or break pieces, they're going to have to replace them until its all back to what it was before.
Troy,
Would you mind giving out the dealer name? I would be interested in speaking with them since I have the same issue but my dealer says it is not the heater box. All they want to do is change out the actuators.
Had this happen on my 21 with the dual auto climate HVAC. I was making a groaning sound when shutting off the truck for a while, then the drivers side got stuck on full hot no matter what the temp was set at and even with AC on- couldn't hold my hand in front of the vent it was so hot. the fan speed only worked on speed 2 but the passenger side temp worked normally.

They fixed it in a day-drove in for a 7 am appointment, picked it up at 5:30pm. It's been working fine ever since.

IMG_0586.JPG
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HAMMERTIME

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treimche said:
Well I finally made an appointment to have my Ranger's heat problem fixed. I stopped at Ford yesterday since the heat was stuck on even when turning the temp all the way down to low, so that I could show a service writer, but he didn't even want to go take a look, he said he'd just take my word for it. The Ford dealer here can't get it in for a whole month because they're so backed up, but at least I'm still under warranty until late July. I'm not excited about them most likely pulling the dash. Definitely going to be taking pics and videos of before the repair so that if they scratch or break pieces, they're going to have to replace them until its all back to what it was before.

Had this happen on my 21 with the dual auto climate HVAC. I was making a groaning sound when shutting off the truck for a while, then the drivers side got stuck on full hot no matter what the temp was set at and even with AC on- couldn't hold my hand in front of the vent it was so hot. the fan speed only worked on speed 2 but the passenger side temp worked normally.

They fixed it in a day-drove in for a 7 am appointment, picked it up at 5:30pm. It's been working fine ever since.

IMG_0586.JPG
Thanks for posting the work order. I'll check mine and see if the codes are the same.
 

treimche

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Troy,
Would you mind giving out the dealer name? I would be interested in speaking with them since I have the same issue but my dealer says it is not the heater box. All they want to do is change out the actuators.
He didn't know for sure what they would have to replace, but he did say that all the actuators are junk and they all break. He said sometimes they have to change the heater box but wouldn't know until they diagnose mine. So there's nothing set in stone for what they will be replacing. I'm actually going to call a different Ford dealership tomorrow to see if they can get me in sooner than a month. If so, then I will likely be dropping it off there, even though it is in a different town about 30 miles away.
 

Frenchy

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He didn't know for sure what they would have to replace, but he did say that all the actuators are junk and they all break. He said sometimes they have to change the heater box but wouldn't know until they diagnose mine. So there's nothing set in stone for what they will be replacing. I'm actually going to call a different Ford dealership tomorrow to see if they can get me in sooner than a month. If so, then I will likely be dropping it off there, even though it is in a different town about 30 miles away.
Due to the bulletin they can replace the HVAC Distribution box without Ford yelling at them. Sounds like they dont want to do the job.
 

JayDavis

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I just got through doing mine, took about an hour. I couldn't find the pin and realized it must have broke off, that's why mine stopped working. I just used a long, thin flathead screwdriver to push the white tab up. Turned the truck on and had cold AC again. ? Your video and post was very helpful!

All I can say this is one time I'm glad I'm short and thin because it's a tough area to get into especially that back screw. You have to depress the brake pedal and lay your head on it to see back there. Luckily I got the pilot hole on the first shot because my battery died (it was charged but finally died out) right after drilling it.:whew:

Here's a picture of the white tab that needs to be moved up. Getting it out isn't easy but it will slide out from the back, pull out the white clip on the back side, tilt it down and it will come out that way. It's a pain because there's a metal support bracket right in the way.

IMG_5534.jpg


Drill right next to the ground wire and the third screw is directly behind. I was laying on the brake pedal and shining a light back there in able to see it. Just use a thin Phillips head and you'll feel it catch, the screws are short so it's only a couple turns and it's out.

IMG_5535.jpg


IMG_5536.jpg
and
It appears we have the same problem. the blend door is jammed by a warped box. The cam follower breaks while the actuator still works so no clicking. I tackled it yesterday. Got the hidden screw loose and this fell out...
1653585607936.webp

Finally got the screws all out ( the back one was an hour + ordeal) and this was what I had...
1653585701688.webp

Cycled the actuator and the cam moves effortlessly.
 


y2krtaf

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It appears we have the same problem. the blend door is jammed by a warped box. The cam follower breaks while the actuator still works so no clicking. I tackled it yesterday. Got the hidden screw loose and this fell out...
1653585607936.png

Finally got the screws all out ( the back one was an hour + ordeal) and this was what I had...
1653585701688.png

Cycled the actuator and the cam moves effortlessly.

I have a feeling mine may be in a similar configuration…
 

AzScorpion

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It appears we have the same problem. the blend door is jammed by a warped box. The cam follower breaks while the actuator still works so no clicking. I tackled it yesterday. Got the hidden screw loose and this fell out...
1653585607936.png

Finally got the screws all out ( the back one was an hour + ordeal) and this was what I had...
1653585701688.png

Cycled the actuator and the cam moves effortlessly.
Wow they look identical. o_O I'm just happy there is a fix for it and it's nice to have members not afraid to dive into something like this which really helped a lot of us.

I must have got lucky for once as it only took me an hour to complete everything. That back upper one is a real PITA to get to and you need to be somewhat of a contortionist. lol I'm glad I did mine last week because it's 105 here now and it sure is nice to have cold AC on my drivers side again.
 

HAMMERTIME

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It appears we have the same problem. the blend door is jammed by a warped box. The cam follower breaks while the actuator still works so no clicking. I tackled it yesterday. Got the hidden screw loose and this fell out...
1653585607936.png

Finally got the screws all out ( the back one was an hour + ordeal) and this was what I had...
1653585701688.png

Cycled the actuator and the cam moves effortlessly.
Jay,
How much of the dash did you pull out to get to this?
My truck is going in Monday for the right side actuator replacement.
I have a feeling this is a band aid repair and I'll be back for the heater box later.
Steve
 

JayDavis

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Jay,
How much of the dash did you pull out to get to this?
My truck is going in Monday for the right side actuator replacement.
I have a feeling this is a band aid repair and I'll be back for the heater box later.
Steve
I did the same thing as AZScorpion. Mine is a dual control the LH (Drivers side). I dropped the large panel below the steering colomn. helps if you have a set of the Walmart plastic panel pry bars. The right side is essentially drop the glove box like changing a cabin filter unless you have the Australian version of the Ranger. There are a couple on YouTube's on the passenger side swap. I was hoping for a cheap actuator switch repair (when they get back in stock) but now it looks like the $2500 destroy my dash is in my future.
 

JayDavis

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Wow they look identical. o_O I'm just happy there is a fix for it and it's nice to have members not afraid to dive into something like this which really helped a lot of us.

I must have got lucky for once as it only took me an hour to complete everything. That back upper one is a real PITA to get to and you need to be somewhat of a contortionist. lol I'm glad I did mine last week because it's 105 here now and it sure is nice to have cold AC on my drivers side again.
AZ have you found a source for the broken white piece? As far as the screws, front was no problem. Middle was tough as it wasn't located exactly as described. I used a step bit to make the hole bigger. The back was a B!tcH. it was higher then described and there were two metal braces that prevented a square engagement and the steering column was in the way. I had to break an old Phillips and used an endoscope to see to offset engage it. Wish I knew what the interior of the box and layout of the blend door was. I might be tempted to bore a hole in the box an run the scope into it to see if its debris stuck or warped.
 

JayDavis

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AZ have you found a source for the broken white piece? As far as the screws, front was no problem. Middle was tough as it wasn't located exactly as described. I used a step bit to make the hole bigger. The back was a B!tcH. it was higher then described and there were two metal braces that prevented a square engagement and the steering column was in the way. I had to break an old Phillips and used an endoscope to see to offset engage it. Wish I knew what the interior of the box and layout of the blend door was. I might be tempted to bore a hole in the box an run the scope into it to see if its debris stuck or warped.
...Oh, and does anyone know how the panel next to the big one below the steering column & below the ignition comes off?
1653602169627.webp

These are the plastic Walmart body panel pry bars I use. The one on the right is very useful for panels an plastic rivets.
1653602306140.webp
 

AzScorpion

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AZ have you found a source for the broken white piece? As far as the screws, front was no problem. Middle was tough as it wasn't located exactly as described. I used a step bit to make the hole bigger. The back was a B!tcH. it was higher then described and there were two metal braces that prevented a square engagement and the steering column was in the way. I had to break an old Phillips and used an endoscope to see to offset engage it. Wish I knew what the interior of the box and layout of the blend door was. I might be tempted to bore a hole in the box an run the scope into it to see if its debris stuck or warped.
Jay I haven't even looked into it yet. I did call my dealer before doing this and they wanted me to leave my truck for 5 days just to look at it. Then another 7-10 days to fix it IF parts are available.

I'll deal with this after our vacation next month but honestly I really never need heat here. Plus the thought of them tearing apart my dash worries me so I might just live with this as is. I used a step bit too and got lucky and hit it on the first try.

I'm surprised you had that much trouble with that rear screw? Once I depressed the brake pedal and laid on it I could see it and got a small screw driver in there no problem. I don't remember any braces in the way on that one either.
 

HAMMERTIME

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Thanks Jay, I'm going to wait and see what the new actuator does. Replaced the left side 4 weeks ago and now the right one is gone.
The actuators are in stock now somewhere. They got one for me in a week and a half.
 

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I just ordered a generic heater control valve to install inline and hopefully prevent the dreaded heater box warpage. These trucks have full heat through the heater core at all times leading to all kinds of failures (planned ?). I'm glad i don't have the big screen (hint). No dual control either. The AC is also constant and I am going to try switching the AC clutch off. These trucks are either too hot or too cold and in constant correction. A stupid design IMO.

https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-B...13bc6c195e3cb18534e2f802063748&language=en_US

 

XLT and me

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well parts finally came in and i dropped the ranger off this morning to get this fixed. They said 2 days, so fingers crossed it gets done on time and fixed correctly. Had to get a rental because they had no loaners.
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