SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

[Bobby-C]

I also have a 2020 - what are the symptoms of this? so far seems fine but do hear some clicking under the dash sometimes I assume that is what it is .

When you turn the truck off, you'll hear a strange noise coming from the glove box or just under the box. I'm not sure how long it lasts but you'll hear for sure.

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[Bluestem]

Alright, I'm in this boat with everyone now. I'm out of warranty and not interested in giving a dealer 3 grand to do this repair, given the outstanding abilities of some of you guys I feel like the dash removal is something I can tackle. At this point I'm looking for a temporary solution.

My symptoms are a bit different than what I've read through here so far as I can tell. On a 5 hour drive through the heat last Friday I was stopped at a light about 3 hours in and the A/S/S kicked in long enough for the AC to cycle down. Once the truck fired back up the AC decided not to, ambient temp air coming out of all vents, didn't change with defrost or floor position. I had one instance this spring on another long drive where I had similar issue as everyone, hot driver side, cold passenger. But it fixed itself.

My question is which on of these actuators should I focus on, it looks like there's 3. While at my folks place this weekend I removed the passenger side one and was able to move that door but cycling that one only adjusted the passenger side and made it warmer, so I know it's not that one. Should I just remove both on the driver's side and see if I can move the blend doors there. I'm looking for a temporary solution to just get the AC going, I don't have 2 or 3 days to pull the dash right more and this is my daily.

Thanks people

 

[airline tech]

Alright, I'm in this boat with everyone now. I'm out of warranty and not interested in giving a dealer 3 grand to do this repair, given the outstanding abilities of some of you guys I feel like the dash removal is something I can tackle. At this point I'm looking for a temporary solution.

My symptoms are a bit different than what I've read through here so far as I can tell. On a 5 hour drive through the heat last Friday I was stopped at a light about 3 hours in and the A/S/S kicked in long enough for the AC to cycle down. Once the truck fired back up the AC decided not to, ambient temp air coming out of all vents, didn't change with defrost or floor position. I had one instance this spring on another long drive where I had similar issue as everyone, hot driver side, cold passenger. But it fixed itself.

My question is which on of these actuators should I focus on, it looks like there's 3. While at my folks place this weekend I removed the passenger side one and was able to move that door but cycling that one only adjusted the passenger side and made it warmer, so I know it's not that one. Should I just remove both on the driver's side and see if I can move the blend doors there. I'm looking for a temporary solution to just get the AC going, I don't have 2 or 3 days to pull the dash right more and this is my daily.

Thanks people

Issue appears to be AC Compressor Clutch is not engaging, possibly Low on Freon, this issue is not from the actuators for temp control.

 

[airline tech]

Issue appears to be AC Compressor Clutch is not engaging, possibly Low on Freon, this issue is not from the actuators for temp control.

With the above as a possibility, you would have noted low ac performance prior to this (warmer than normal output)
so, I am thinking that since this happened in a transition of power something triggered a code and has the compressor solenoid clutch (disabled) or a blown fuse etc.

Scan for codes and see if something is logged.

However, does the OAT still show on the screen and is it accurate, can you go to manual control and drive the temps to (LO) both sides and still have same outcome (warm air)
Can you engage the AC (switch) Light comes on, or Max AC

Try:

Reset OAT: KOEO (Key on engine off) - Press the AC & Recir Buttons (Same Time) release and within 2 seconds -Press the AC button, then start the engine and try operating the AC.

Pull the FCIM fuse for 5 minutes - BCM Fuse 12, this will reset the control (switch) part of the system.

Check the BJB Fuse: Fuse 22 - The is for the AC Clutch

Scanning for codes and clear them if any.

 

[Bluestem]

Yep, the AC was running just fine right up until that stoplight. I have no codes, all climate functions still are working and the lights on the buttons are coming. I pulled the FCIM fuse for 5 minutes and checked the other. I ran through the reset as well to no avail.

Now that you mention it I don't hear the AC compressor kicking on, which I'm assuming I should like any other vehicle.

I don't want to hijack this thread, but yeah you're right I don't think this is a blend door issue.

 

[sheashelby]

Posted in another thread, but hoping someone has an idea of what to do.

I had this repair done in November of 2023 (2020 Lariat) under warranty, thankfully.

Now my issue is that I have clicking noises under the steering wheel, and I cannot for the life of me figure out where the clicking is coming from. I took the truck back to the dealership last month and they pulled the dash out and "fixed it," but I am still hearing the clicking noise. Seems like it's coming from the lower a/c vent below the steering wheel. Anyone have the same issue and been able to fix it?

 

[airline tech]

Posted in another thread, but hoping someone has an idea of what to do.

I had this repair done in November of 2023 (2020 Lariat) under warranty, thankfully.

Now my issue is that I have clicking noises under the steering wheel, and I cannot for the life of me figure out where the clicking is coming from. I took the truck back to the dealership last month and they pulled the dash out and "fixed it," but I am still hearing the clicking noise. Seems like it's coming from the lower a/c vent below the steering wheel. Anyone have the same issue and been able to fix it?

When does it click?
If you go to manual - can you drive the temp all the way Down (Lo) and all the way Up (Hi)
If you get clicking here - it is the Driver's Temp Actuator

If you go to manual - can you move the airflow (defrost, panel, floor)
If you get clicking here - it is the Mode Door Actuator
Plus, when you turn off the truck, this actuator powers to the Bi-Level (Panel/Floor) position

The Temp Actuators - from my research do not move, when truck is shut off, the only ones that move is the Mode Door and Air Inlet Door (Recirculation)

This may or may not have a code locked in the FCIM, so a scan could help pinpoint down which actuator is making the noise.

 

[sheashelby]

When does it click?
If you go to manual - can you drive the temp all the way Down (Lo) and all the way Up (Hi)
If you get clicking here - it is the Driver's Temp Actuator

If you go to manual - can you move the airflow (defrost, panel, floor)
If you get clicking here - it is the Mode Door Actuator
Plus, when you turn off the truck, this actuator powers to the Bi-Level (Panel/Floor) position

The Temp Actuators - from my research do not move, when truck is shut off, the only ones that move is the Mode Door and Air Inlet Door (Recirculation)

This may or may not have a code locked in the FCIM, so a scan could help pinpoint down which actuator is making the noise.

I appreciate the response!

My apologies, I should have clarified that the clicking is not coming from the climate system now. It's coming from underneath the steering wheel, and I assume that something wasn't attached correctly when they pulled out the dashboard originally. I spent yesterday trying to pinpoint the noise and I think it is coming from the floor vent on the driver side, under the steering wheel. I tried my best to put some electrical tape and some weather stripping around the area. Just very frustrating to not be able to 100% fix it!

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

@sheashelby

Is this ‘clicking’ or ‘rattling’? Clicking, to me, sounds like the noise a gear or a device that cycles would make. If it’s that, I think AT is on to it above.

If it’s a rattling noise, it could be that the re-install didn’t go as it should. Another member had this done and the shop missed a locking tab/mounting point up under the dash on the driver’s side, and there was rattling afterwards.

I believe there were pictures posted of the location of the tab. Anyway a search regarding dash removal or install will likely reveal the thread. It may even be somewhere in this 30 page thread.

I hope you get it solved.

 

[Stirling]

My 2019 Ranger’s AC blew 20 degrees warmer on the drivers side.

Changing temperature control from max Lo to max hi, the air temperature coming out of the drivers side vent remained the same. FORScan code indicated a blend door actuator failure.

The codes were B11E5 and B1081, a position sensor and left damper motor failure. Hmmm

The failure was silent, no clicking, just silence. I suspect the gears jammed.

Ford said the entire dash had to come out. I wasn’t paying to have my interior removed resulting in the dash squeaking with every bump in the road. So-oo , I had a good long look and figured out how to change the actuator without removing the dash.

You will need:

- an endoscope that plugs into your iPhone via the lightning receptacle.
They are cheap, 20usd on Amazon. Invest- thank me later!
-a long screw driver type extension. Mine is 12 inches. See pics

several Philips heads
One T25 Torx head
To remove the blind screw, I cut the handle down on a 6 inch Philips screwdriver.
Silicone caulking
High temperature grease
A NEW actuator.

The local auto parts stores carry the actuator at a cost of 28-30 dollars.
I don’t recommend buying them. They could be old stock with the same problem. Think about it! How many could they have sold? , access is restrictive. The majority of actuator replacements are done by Ford.
I bought mine from ford online store. $46 plus $8 shipping. Ford includes a paper indicating the build date, mine was Aug 2023, so I know it is the new stock, new gears, corrected failure mechanisms et-cetera The problem was mainly undersized gears that jammed. Shipping takes about a week.
If you must have it quickly, your local dealer will be more than happy to sell you one for $77.

Remove two panels, one under the dash, one left side knee plate.
The vent tube is in two pieces, remove the bottom piece and twist out the temp sensor.
In order to remove the upper vent tube section, you have to cut holes as shown in the pictures.
The upper vent tube is held in place by a T25 Torx screw. Surprise, surprise!
Once the upper vent tube is out. Trim the metal ear or tab that shields access to the actuator.

Drill two holes as shown in the pictures, slot the holes. It makes your life easier

If you have big hands, you may have to trim away some material, see pics. I used a dremel with a spiral drill bit. Avoid the the rectangular slots that receive the body panel clips.

Now , remove the three Philips screws on the actuator, one is visible, two are blind, use the endoscope to guide the screw drivers.

Remove the actuator, disconnect the electrical connector.

The yellow sweep arm should come off with the actuator, transfer to the new actuator, grease the track.

Before installing it. Confirm the blend door operates smoothly, reach up and move the white knob through the Range , the door operation should be smooth without sticking or a hard spot. If it has hard spots, the hvac box may be warped and need to be replaced. If all is good, leave the door in the positon you need depending on the season until you receive the new part. I manually adjusted mine to full cold while I waited for delivery of the new actuator.

Before reinstalling the actuator, position the door mid range. Uber important!

This is essential!!!!
Attach the four screws to the Philips and Torx bit with silicone caulk and let dry overnight. Don’t rush it. You cannot get two hands in these spaces, regardless of how petite your hands may be.

The next day, Install in reverse order.
Once installed, with the three mounting screws firmly seated. Start the truck, cycle temperature thru hot and cold and watch the yellow sweep arm move thru the range.
It’s a beautiful thing.

My repair cost was $54 plus my time.
Ford was northward of 2 grand.

The pictures have notes for further instructions.

Happy trials brothers and sisters,
Cheers, Stirling

 

[airline tech]

Some on here have replaced the actuator this way and it works until the door swells (if warped) and the actuator gets jammed again.
Hopefully it works out and stays operational.
Since you are new, this is a KNOWN issue on the Ranger and if you are lucky this is a perm fix vs actually pulling the dash to replace the whole assembly.
It's not so much the actuator as the issue, it's the door itself binding and causing the actuator gears to jump on the Ranger

Suggest a small dab of Super Glue vs Caulking - Mechanics Trick - dries quicker or a magnetic apex bit.

Welcome to the forum

 

[underwhelmed]

My 2019 Ranger’s AC blew 20 degrees warmer on the drivers side.

Changing temperature control from max Lo to max hi, the air temperature coming out of the drivers side vent remained the same. FORScan code indicated a blend door actuator failure.

The codes were B11E5 and B1081, a position sensor and left damper motor failure. Hmmm

The failure was silent, no clicking, just silence. I suspect the gears jammed.

Ford said the entire dash had to come out. I wasn’t paying to have my interior removed resulting in the dash squeaking with every bump in the road. So-oo , I had a good long look and figured out how to change the actuator without removing the dash.

You will need:

- an endoscope that plugs into your iPhone via the lightning receptacle.
They are cheap, 20usd on Amazon. Invest- thank me later!
-a long screw driver type extension. Mine is 12 inches. See pics

several Philips heads
One T25 Torx head
To remove the blind screw, I cut the handle down on a 6 inch Philips screwdriver.
Silicone caulking
High temperature grease
A NEW actuator.

The local auto parts stores carry the actuator at a cost of 28-30 dollars.
I don’t recommend buying them. They could be old stock with the same problem. Think about it! How many could they have sold? , access is restrictive. The majority of actuator replacements are done by Ford.
I bought mine from ford online store. $46 plus $8 shipping. Ford includes a paper indicating the build date, mine was Aug 2023, so I know it is the new stock, new gears, corrected failure mechanisms et-cetera The problem was mainly undersized gears that jammed. Shipping takes about a week.
If you must have it quickly, your local dealer will be more than happy to sell you one for $77.

Remove two panels, one under the dash, one left side knee plate.
The vent tube is in two pieces, remove the bottom piece and twist out the temp sensor.
In order to remove the upper vent tube section, you have to cut holes as shown in the pictures.
The upper vent tube is held in place by a T25 Torx screw. Surprise, surprise!
Once the upper vent tube is out. Trim the metal ear or tab that shields access to the actuator.

Drill two holes as shown in the pictures, slot the holes. It makes your life easier

If you have big hands, you may have to trim away some material, see pics. I used a dremel with a spiral drill bit. Avoid the the rectangular slots that receive the body panel clips.

Now , remove the three Philips screws on the actuator, one is visible, two are blind, use the endoscope to guide the screw drivers.

Remove the actuator, disconnect the electrical connector.

The yellow sweep arm should come off with the actuator, transfer to the new actuator, grease the track.

Before installing it. Confirm the blend door operates smoothly, reach up and move the white knob through the Range , the door operation should be smooth without sticking or a hard spot. If it has hard spots, the hvac box may be warped and need to be replaced. If all is good, leave the door in the positon you need depending on the season until you receive the new part. I manually adjusted mine to full cold while I waited for delivery of the new actuator.

Before reinstalling the actuator, position the door mid range. Uber important!

This is essential!!!!
Attach the four screws to the Philips and Torx bit with silicone caulk and let dry overnight. Don’t rush it. You cannot get two hands in these spaces, regardless of how petite your hands may be.

The next day, Install in reverse order.
Once installed, with the three mounting screws firmly seated. Start the truck, cycle temperature thru hot and cold and watch the yellow sweep arm move thru the range.
It’s a beautiful thing.

My repair cost was $54 plus my time.
Ford was northward of 2 grand.

The pictures have notes for further instructions.

Happy trials brothers and sisters,
Cheers, Stirling

Freaking amazing. The inginuity, creativeness, skill and patience of the people on this forum absolutely crazy! Nice work! I wish I possessed any one of those virtues. Wow!

 

[Rocketeer61]

Some on here have replaced the actuator this way and it works until the door swells (if warped) and the actuator gets jammed again.
Hopefully it works out and stays operational.
Since you are new, this is a KNOWN issue on the Ranger and if you are lucky this is a perm fix vs actually pulling the dash to replace the whole assembly.
It's not so much the actuator as the issue, it's the door itself binding and causing the actuator gears to jump on the Ranger

Suggest a small dab of Super Glue vs Caulking - Mechanics Trick - dries quicker or a magnetic apex bit.

Welcome to the forum

So does chewing gum. Dentyne Fire is my preferred adhesive.

 

[NSS30571]

I see where everyone with this issue reports heat from driver's side when needing A/C. Mine appears to be the opposite. For the last month, I've had no heat from the driver's side vents, floor, or the defrost. Heat works fine on the passenger side. A/C works fine on both sides. No clicking noise and no codes. Assuming it's the same actuator and not some other issue such as a sensor?

 

[Frenchy]

I see where everyone with this issue reports heat from driver's side when needing A/C. Mine appears to be the opposite. For the last month, I've had no heat from the driver's side vents, floor, or the defrost. Heat works fine on the passenger side. A/C works fine on both sides. No clicking noise and no codes. Assuming it's the same actuator and not some other issue such as a sensor?

It's not the Actuator, but the HVAC Box that is the problem. You may not experience any noise with this issue. You may have codes. Best option is to have the dealer replace the HVAC box as it has warped.

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