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Ranger Suspension, Lift Kits, Leveling Kits

McLeadslinger

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You also need UCA’s to correct suspension geometry and prevent ball joint bind. I have the Fabtech UCA’s, Eibach pro 2.0 Adj coil era set at 3.5 inches.

People need to invest in UCA’s if they really want a correct setup.
You only "need" a UCA if your new coils are 2.5 inches in diameter. Fox 2.5 kings, icons all require a UCA. If you do order a UCA make sure to check if you have aluminum or steel knuckles. Camburg and Total Chaos send parts for both knuckles so you're safe with them. Icon is not making for steel yet.
9B2B99C5-A395-4789-B7ED-6650DFF91191.jpeg
 

DangerRanger01

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Hey there!

I've got a few quick questions for all you lifted/leveled ranger owners out there. I've been wanting to lift the truck for quite some time. the stock rake on the ranger doesn't look too appealing to me, and it's time for a change. Being in Canada, I've chosen to not go through stage3 motorsports for the sole purpose of avoiding the hefty levy fees that come with the purchase. I've managed to narrow the supplier down to partsengine.ca as tdotperformance seems to have very negative reviews with the customer service, to the point of having lost packages with no refunds? seems a little far-fetched, but I've decided to turn towards partsengine.ca.

anyways, after the speil, my real question is how does everyone feel with spacer lifts/levels? I do plan to do some light off-roading in the future, just running up and down forest maintenance roads etc, anything for the perfect campsite haha. but I don't have much experience with spacers. but the kits that I am seeing that are a direct fit for the ranger is the below options:

Rough Country 3.5" Lift Kit

SuperLift 3.5" Lift Kit

These seem to be the best bang-for-buck. I have read reviews on both, and Rough COuntry seems to have the best overall reviews, but I am still a little iffy.
Just wondering what everyone else is using, and if anyone has different recommendations for a 2.5" to 3.5" level/lift. I'd like to get the sponginess out of the rear, as the truck really likes to float and it's quite annoying going over the smallest bumps and being thrown around all the time, I know that's mostly due to the fact that the truck has such a small wheel distance, but I've heard that new shocks in the rear do help.

Any criticism and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
 

Count Desmondo

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Just had Fox 2.0 Coilovers (non-Ford Performance version - the normal ones) installed this past Friday and I'm so glad that I no longer have the FX4 suspension (the nose dive is gone with braking).

I left the coilovers at the height that they came at and it looks like I got about 2" of lift in the front from them (haven't measured to confirm). No aftermarket upper control arms were installed and the shop that installed it was able to align it at that height.

Tires: Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 255/75/17 - stock wheels. I also fit one of these in the spare tire area without any issues for clearance.

Super happy with the look and feel of the new setup. Sharing this just in case anyone is unsure if a certain tire size will fit with a certain lift.

A893B0F7-DF16-42BF-8F0E-837A56DD2D6B.jpg
Did you have to install extended sway bar links?
 


Count Desmondo

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It's a 2" or 2.5" front level kit which takes away the rake and makes it level with the rear. You still get about a 1/4" - 3/8" rake but looks level to then eye. If you go perfectly level then you need to be careful if you haul heavy loads or tow as the rear will now sag and your front will be nose high. In that case some will add a 1" level in the rear.

Fox and a couple others have adjustable shocks which are more expensive nut nice if you want it adjustable and they are better and less chance of wear on the front end parts than spacers. I went with the 2.5" RC level kit and like the results.


Before:

IMG_1396.jpg


IMG_1397.jpg



After Level:

IMG_1400.jpg


After level and larger tires:

IMG_1404.jpg


IMG_1405.jpg
Did you have to install extended sway bar end links?
 

AzScorpion

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Did you have to install extended sway bar end links?
No I didn't have to do anything and never had any rubbing issues. Just get an alignment and you're good to go.

Since then I changed them out (back this May) for a set of Eibach coilovers. I now plan on keeping my Ranger for a few more years and wanted something better than the Fx4 suspension.
 

Count Desmondo

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No I didn't have to do anything and never had any rubbing issues. Just get an alignment and you're good to go.

Since then I changed them out (back this May) for a set of Eibach coilovers. I now plan on keeping my Ranger for a few more years and wanted something better than the Fx4 suspension.
I bought a Ford/Fox 2.0 kit from Levittown. Had it installed by the Ford dealer where I purchased my Ranger. Unbeknownst to me, they set the height at 3 inches which I just found out yesterday. I figured they would install it as it was out of of the box set at 2 inches. All is well for a while until I start hearing a knocking or clicking sound at low and higher speeds. Had a buddy's help to pinpoint there is a audible knock that we felt from the front sway bar and more specifically the drivers side sway bar end link. Made the noise for months before I finally did made an appointment to have the dealer look at it. They tell me that because it's been lifted it needs longer/extended sway bay end links... The dealer asked where I had the lift installed, told him right at the dealer! Why didn't they enlighten me about the need for extended links at the time of the suspension install? I haven't specifically come across much at all on this forum about the need for extended sway bar links. Now I am also wondering if there is a need for new UCA's to allow for more negative travel. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!! :)
 

AzScorpion

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I bought a Ford/Fox 2.0 kit from Levittown. Had it installed by the Ford dealer where I purchased my Ranger. Unbeknownst to me, they set the height at 3 inches which I just found out yesterday. I figured they would install it as it was out of of the box set at 2 inches. All is well for a while until I start hearing a knocking or clicking sound at low and higher speeds. Had a buddy's help to pinpoint there is a audible knock that we felt from the front sway bar and more specifically the drivers side sway bar end link. Made the noise for months before I finally did made an appointment to have the dealer look at it. They tell me that because it's been lifted it needs longer/extended sway bay end links... The dealer asked where I had the lift installed, told him right at the dealer! Why didn't they enlighten me about the need for extended links at the time of the suspension install? I haven't specifically come across much at all on this forum about the need for extended sway bar links. Now I am also wondering if there is a need for new UCA's to allow for more negative travel. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!! :)
I've read where some here have replaced the UCA's but mine have been fine with my setup. My Eibach are set at 2.5" and I have 265/70/17 Nittos and still haven't had any issues or rubbing with about 6,000 miles on them now. Maybe see if they can lower it down to 2.5" and see if that helps before spending more money on UCA's?
 

Count Desmondo

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I've read where some here have replaced the UCA's but mine have been fine with my setup. My Eibach are set at 2.5" and I have 265/70/17 Nittos and still haven't had any issues or rubbing with about 6,000 miles on them now. Maybe see if they can lower it down to 2.5" and see if that helps before spending more money on UCA's?
The dealer is telling me that I need extended sway bar end links with any lift. As it is right now, the OEM link on the drivers side had broken at the bushing. I'm trying to understand the discrepancy between the dealer and what I have read on this forum.
 

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The dealer is telling me that I need extended sway bar end links with any lift. As it is right now, the OEM link on the drivers side had broken at the bushing. I'm trying to understand the discrepancy between the dealer and what I have read on this forum.
That's not true as many of us here have lifts/levels without doing this. Now I'm not sure about going up to 3" but it sounds like the dealer set yours to this (instead of leaving it at the factory 2" setting) and yours broke and now they're trying to get out of fixing it. Hopefully someone else comes along that's gone up to 3" and can clarify it. Do you have another dealer or shop nearby that you could get a second opinion from?
 

DukeCanBuildit

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The dealer is telling me that I need extended sway bar end links with any lift. As it is right now, the OEM link on the drivers side had broken at the bushing. I'm trying to understand the discrepancy between the dealer and what I have read on this forum.
Maybe they didn’t remove it when they did the swap and then popped its ball and socket when they forced things back together. Easy fix if the boot is still in place.
 

Count Desmondo

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That's not true as many of us here have lifts/levels without doing this. Now I'm not sure about going up to 3" but it sounds like the dealer set yours to this (instead of leaving it at the factory 2" setting) and yours broke and now they're trying to get out of fixing it. Hopefully someone else comes along that's gone up to 3" and can clarify it. Do you have another dealer or shop nearby that you could get a second opinion from?
Thanks for the input guys. The investigation is on going. That's all I can say for now.
 
 








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