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Poor Air Conditioning Performance - not a blend door issue

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TJMarchand

TJMarchand

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So the blend door issue may still be happening. You might not be getting a blend door situation where the hot air is completely blocked off, and well, it's still blending hot air with the cold air to give you 60° air.

I've also seen a pressure switch bad in a BRAND NEW 2.3 Bronco AC system, and it was doing the same thing. Just something to consider, maybe?

As a side note...
Ouch! $290 diag fee? Actually, $290 isn't too bad considering they hooked up the machine too it also. But still, ouch!
I think I would have to take it back to the dealer and tell them to check the blend door again, I would rather go back to where I bought the truck this time. They were not the ones I had check it a couple days ago.
The money stings more since they couldn't even fix anything, I was trying to give them more money!

I can change out the pressure switch - can anyone confirm it is part #HG1Z-19D594-A?

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Progeny2021

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I think I would have to take it back to the dealer and tell them to check the blend door again, I would rather go back to where I bought the truck this time. They were not the ones I had check it a couple days ago.
The money stings more since they couldn't even fix anything, I was trying to give them more money!

I can change out the pressure switch - can anyone confirm it is part #HG1Z-19D594-A?

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Don't fire the proverbial 'Parts Cannon'....

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Progeny2021

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If your
I think I would have to take it back to the dealer and tell them to check the blend door again, I would rather go back to where I bought the truck this time. They were not the ones I had check it a couple days ago.
The money stings more since they couldn't even fix anything, I was trying to give them more money!

I can change out the pressure switch - can anyone confirm it is part #HG1Z-19D594-A?

20220721_190240.webp
If your unit is only pulling down 60F at the center vent, Auto Temp off, temp set to max cold, Recirc on, fan on high speed, windows/doors closed and parked in the shade then something is certainly wrong. If under warranty, some Ford dealer somewhere will correct this. If not under warranty, expect to pay.
 

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My dad had an old Ranger for a couple of years and the air never worked very well on it. One day I asked what this push button next to the climate controls was and he said he did not know, never touched it. I pushed it and it was MAX AC. I am sure you have done this but make sure your temp control is set to low.
 
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Solved - coolant level was ... sub-optimal.

I never checked, I always take it to the dealer since I have the extended maintenance plan. Never thought to look. Guess the dealer and I both dropped the ball here.

Big thanks again, all.
 


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Solved - coolant level was ... sub-optimal.

I never checked, I always take it to the dealer since I have the extended maintenance plan. Never thought to look. Guess the dealer and I both dropped the ball here.

Big thanks again, all.
Glad you solved it, I've been through the ringer trying to figure out why I was having so much variation on my times on the track when the weather was not changing and I was basically hot lapping. Found out I forgot to tighten one of the clamps down on the air box causing random air leaks during my runs, sometimes it's the simple stuff that gets you...

Don't get me started on the time I dismantled my water heater to find a dead fly was stopping the gas from hitting the igniter...lucky the little bastard was already dead...;)
 

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I think newer vehicles' A/C just isn't as cold as it used to be.
When I was a kid the GM Frigidaire systems with the old R-12 would take it from 150* in the sun to meat locker in 5 minutes.
This year I simply put window tint on the side and rear windows, it helped a lot.
 

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I think newer vehicles' A/C just isn't as cold as it used to be.
When I was a kid the GM Frigidaire systems with the old R-12 would take it from 150* in the sun to meat locker in 5 minutes.
This year I simply put window tint on the side and rear windows, it helped a lot.
Our '88 Ranger was converted over to R-134 after the dryer/accumulator medium failed. Pulled 48F after the conversion - felt as cold as previously.
 
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Glad you solved it, I've been through the ringer trying to figure out why I was having so much variation on my times on the track when the weather was not changing and I was basically hot lapping. Found out I forgot to tighten one of the clamps down on the air box causing random air leaks during my runs, sometimes it's the simple stuff that gets you...

Don't get me started on the time I dismantled my water heater to find a dead fly was stopping the gas from hitting the igniter...lucky the little bastard was already dead...;)
I was so frustrated and assuming it was going to be a much more involved repair. Why check the level of the liquid that exists to transfer heat? To your point, I did the same when I installed my aftermarket CAI.
I think newer vehicles' A/C just isn't as cold as it used to be.
When I was a kid the GM Frigidaire systems with the old R-12 would take it from 150* in the sun to meat locker in 5 minutes.
This year I simply put window tint on the side and rear windows, it helped a lot.
I splurged on some ceramic window tint, it helps a ton with the black interior + no more sunburns while driving!
 

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I am not super impressed with the A/C in this truck. Been dealing with 110+ temps here in Vegas lately and I have to have it at FULL blast to keep me comfortable. Not the worst, but definitely not the best. I don't think there's anything wrong with my A/C, just not as good as it could be IMO.

It's funny that the A/C in my wife's Tucson is actually better than my Rangers. Hers takes a little longer to get going, but man once it gets going its ICE cold, and she has 60K miles on it.
 

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My Ranger is doing great set at 73/auto with no max and no recirculation. Actual temps over 100 every day with heat index going up to or over 110. Maybe the actual temp is beating it up vs heat index. That said, anyone not in the desert or on the gulf coast might want to have the rerigerant levels checked if your AC sucks. Mine can deal with Houston no problem.


OP glad it was an easy fix.
 

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My dad had an old Ranger for a couple of years and the air never worked very well on it. One day I asked what this push button next to the climate controls was and he said he did not know, never touched it. I pushed it and it was MAX AC. I am sure you have done this but make sure your temp control is set to low.
"Max" setting on AC is same as "Recirculate"
 

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"Max" setting on AC is same as "Recirculate"
Doesn't it also cut off coolant going to the heater core as the older Fords did? I know it may sound counterintuitive, but in normal settings, there was always hot water circulating thru the heater, even when in AC mode. It was only when switched to Max AC that the coolant was shut off from entering the heater core. Also, the AC compressor always runs, even in winter with temp set high, to deal with condensation.
 

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here in Texas I think, at least for mine, I found the magic bullet.

Set temp to 69, fixed on vent/dash registers, and recirculate. I leave the fan on "auto" control and two things happen...first it works great...second the recirculate never turns off like it would with everything in full auto.


Now, back to OP's issue...when you say "coolant" did you mean the refrigerant or were you meaning engine coolant?
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