Or strut stud broke off

[Duwop]

Wondering if you could find a press in replacement stud of the right size (if you.had the tools to do it all).

I imagine if I looked hard enough I could but time is money and I have full faith in the engineering from Ford so I purchased a new top mount. I could have pressed in a stud as I have all the tools but time spent looking and possibly getting a substandard part and having failures would add to overall cost. Let’s just say I’m more pragmatic

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[Duwop]

Did you use a 3/4 drive impact to torque this?

No I did not as those are unreliable

 

[Langwilliams]

I'd like to see all the torque specs on all the bolts involved in this. I've watched several videos on line of people doing this an they all just bolt it all back together. Maybe they use the ol German torque wrench "gutentight".

seems they used a ratcheting wrench on those top bolts. Seems it would be very hard to break one of these with a wrench. Guess you could over torque it but not enough to break one unless you have gorilla arms

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I'd like to see all the torque specs on all the bolts involved in this. I've watched several videos on line of people doing this an they all just bolt it all back together. Maybe they use the ol German torque wrench "gutentight".

seems they used a ratcheting wrench on those top bolts. Seems it would be very hard to break one of these with a wrench. Guess you could over torque it but not enough to break one unless you have gorilla arms

Rough Country provides the torque specs in their instructions. The torque spec on the top mount studs are only 32 ft-lbs.

 

[Langwilliams]

Rough Country provides the torque specs in their instructions. The torque spec on the top mount studs are only 32 ft-lbs.

Thanks for the link. Most of the steps are the same in the vids an printed instructions EXCEPT removing the skid plate an unplugging the electric power steering.

I was gonna tackle this myself but I had rotator cuff surgery last week so I'm OOC for a while an a guy I know with a home shop said he'd do it for $230

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Thanks for the link. Most of the steps are the same in the vids an printed instructions EXCEPT removing the skid plate an unplugging the electric power steering.

I was gonna tackle this myself but I had rotator cuff surgery last week so I'm OOC for a while an a guy I know with a home shop said he'd do it for $230

Most of the vids also don’t show to remove the 35mm axle nut and push the CV in and out of the way so you don’t pop it, or to remove the rotor and calliper to make it a lot easier, or to make sure BOTH sides are up on jack stands at the same time to take pressure off the anti-sway bar link so you don’t pop it, or to replace all ny-loc nuts with new OEM ny-loc nuts (including the 35mm), or that this can be done two different ways (unfastening the knuckle or unfastening the lower control arm). LCA is easier and rotor, calliper, and CV concerns are out of play. Both require an alignment.

All this to say, make sure your home shop guy knows how to do this on a 2019/20 Ranger. $230 might get your kit installed but you still need a wheel alignment - north of $125 for that is my guess. I’d get a quote from your Ford dealer or a suspension shop for the install plus alignment first. It might be surprisingly close and any extra might be worth the peace of mind.

I hope it goes well.

 

[Langwilliams]

I got a quote of $300 from a repair shop...the guys working thee all drive lifted Tahoes an trucks. They said they hadn't done a new ranger but looked at the set up an said it's like a jeep suv they did. 4 Wheel Parts wants $550 for the job. There's a local shop near me I called an he said he hasn't seen the underside of the new ranger yet an would have to look at it an the Bilstein struts to give a price. I was quoted $90 for the alignment by the local tire shop. They would also install the kit but can't give a firm quote, only it would be at least $150, this is a local chain tire/repair shop

 

[Metalshift]

Torque specs:

strut shaft nut 41 ft/lbs
upper strut hat nuts 41
lower strut nuts 66
upper ball joint 46
lower ball joint 76
cv nut 221
brake line 10
tie rod end 35
lug nuts 100
stabalizer ends 85
rear shock bolts 52
rear u bolts 98

 

[onobeka]

Most of the vids also don’t show to remove the 35mm axle nut and push the CV in and out of the way so you don’t pop it, or to remove the rotor and calliper to make it a lot easier, or to make sure BOTH sides are up on jack stands at the same time to take pressure off the anti-sway bar link so you don’t pop it, or to replace all ny-loc nuts with new OEM ny-loc nuts (including the 35mm), or that this can be done two different ways (unfastening the knuckle or unfastening the lower control arm). LCA is easier and rotor, calliper, and CV concerns are out of play. Both require an alignment.

All this to say, make sure your home shop guy knows how to do this on a 2019/20 Ranger. $230 might get your kit installed but you still need a wheel alignment - north of $125 for that is my guess. I’d get a quote from your Ford dealer or a suspension shop for the install plus alignment first. It might be surprisingly close and any extra might be worth the piece of mind.

I hope it goes well.

By far the easiest method, without ANY hammering, is to disconnect the LCA from the subframe. You only need to put a strap between both LCAs to avoid that the CV will extend. This way you only disconnect the sway bar.
Since in any case an alignment is unavoidable, messing up with the alignment bolts on the LCA is not worse than not going over there. I would avoid risking any CV and front diferential pullout.

 

[outdoorphotog]

No I did not as those are unreliable

Depends what you are working on

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