Or strut stud broke off

[Duwop]

that’s my thought thanks though, are the upper control arm different on 2wd I’m asking because when pulling down to mate up with the steering knuckle it’s not coming down enough to start knuckle nut?

Once again I answered my own ? Thanks

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[onobeka]

Just for reference, those are hi ten 10.9 grade bolts, at least on the chinese aluminium billet spacer I have. If you got a decent quality spacer, I bet those are al least the same grade. Judging from the coarse surface from your pics, there was either a manufacture defect or you really torqued the hell out of it. If I remember right, those are M10 bolts. If they are 10.9, they have a huge tensile strength. If your spacer is an aluminium one, I could see that breaking since although the material is self greasing it is very inelastic and with the self locking nut that could have twisted the bolt. I also felt the rigidity of the nut locking while fastening my spacers, but I always go by feel, not by torque wrench. If your spacer is steel, there should have been some elasticity feeling in the fastening. Maybe you should indeed check your wrench before further usage.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

how did that happen?
I havent seen those studs...not sure if they are press fit, welded, or tapped....but anything is fixable, with time and money

Well, here’s one way....

I always lay out my tools for a job. I have two torque wrenches - one is for my lugs and is always pre-set to 100 ft-lbs. When I was installing my level kit, I pre-set my other torque wrench to the strut spec (32 ft-lbs, I think). Anyway, I grabbed my torque wrench and went to work on the nut - just as I was saying to myself, “why is this taking so many ratchets and why does this wrench seem so big?” SNAP! Oops, wrong torque wrench.

I couldn’t find a place to buy a replacement stud to press in and had to get a new top hat for the strut. Hundred dollar mistake and a delay in installing my level. Not to mention the PIA process to compress the strut to change it out.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

So Ford says you can’t replace just the stud you need to replace the upper mount which costs $92 and change. So I’ve got it on order even though I don’t see why you can’t replace a stud but then I’m no engineer. Just a simple delay

Ford won’t sell you a single stud and you might not be able source one. You’ll likely need to buy the strut top mount assembly, get your hands on a good strut spring compressor and swap it out. PIA but not too bad.

The only upside here is that you will have two spare studs for anyone else who does the same thing.

 

[Langwilliams]

a shop near you might be able to fix it. Take the strut in an see if they can press the old one out an have a new one to press in. An off road shop might have them in stock.

 

[Jtholz]

Is this what you are looking for. I still have my top caps from when I did my lift. DM ME if you are interested.

 

[Duwop]

First Thanks to all that have replied. So I did order a new top for the strut as I was a Ford trying to buy a stud only and was told I couldn’t so I ordered the part. My mistake I had the wrench set properly but couldn’t hear the click. I have throughly checked the torq wrench and it’s fine but I have the old needle style torq wrench as well and checked it against the other. I will be delayed 4-5 days and am out another $93 but oh well.
Secondly I reinstalled the other side since I had everything for it but now that it’s back together I got to say it looks kind of wonky. The position and geometry of the upper control arm is all the way in the down position. I assume that when it’s a complete job and the weight of the truck is on everything that perhaps it will come up some. If not I don’t think this will be good for the suspension.. hmmm any thoughts?

 

[Duwop]

Is this what you are looking for. I still have my top caps from when I did my lift. DM ME if you are interested.

I’d be interested if I hadn’t ordered the part at 9:30 am and your would probably take the same amount of time to get to me but Thank You for offering

 

[Duwop]

notice in the second image how the sway bar link is on the lower control arm
Notice upper control arm position

 

[DT444T]

Bruh that torque spec is 32 ft-lbs. How did you break this?

 

[Nollie]

I did that once when I set the torque wrench using the NM value on the ftlb setting... sickening feeling when it snapped

 

[onobeka]

notice in the second image how the sway bar link is on the lower control arm
Notice upper control arm position

That may actually answer my question on the droop limiter . The whole assembly will come up for sure, but in no way you will have again the UCA in the flat to the ground position. What lift are you trying to achieve? Is it more than 2-2.5”?

Looks like yours is a 2WD, at least you will not have to worry about the CV angles.

 

[alexislima101]

First Thanks to all that have replied. So I did order a new top for the strut as I was a Ford trying to buy a stud only and was told I couldn’t so I ordered the part. My mistake I had the wrench set properly but couldn’t hear the click. I have throughly checked the torq wrench and it’s fine but I have the old needle style torq wrench as well and checked it against the other. I will be delayed 4-5 days and am out another $93 but oh well.
Secondly I reinstalled the other side since I had everything for it but now that it’s back together I got to say it looks kind of wonky. The position and geometry of the upper control arm is all the way in the down position. I assume that when it’s a complete job and the weight of the truck is on everything that perhaps it will come up some. If not I don’t think this will be good for the suspension.. hmmm any thoughts?

I can possibly help assuming you have an sla like we all do hahaha. Dm me if you have any questions!

 

[port43]

Is this what you are looking for. I still have my top caps from when I did my lift. DM ME if you are interested.

 

[outdoorphotog]

Did you use a 3/4 drive impact to torque this?

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