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oil level and types of oil

silverflash

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to preface, i have changed my own engine oil for as long as i can remember and i will be 52 this year. I have many different kinds of cars and trucks in my life. never had issues with any of them. now to the question/dilema:

i bought my 2021 fx4 ranger new in june. I changed the oil and filter at 1500 miles going to a synthetic and mobile1 filter. I do this with all my new vehicles to get the break in materials out of the oil.

i stumbled across the "fuel in oil" issue here and started to check mine and saw a rise of the level.

I decided to change it again at like 3900 miles with same synthetic oil and ford filter. the level this time after the change and warmed up, 15 minutes later, was at the top of the hash marks. a good lvel per the manual. I can't recall where it was before i changed it but assume it was past the hashes but below top dot.

the oil rose from that point and was near the top hole within 400 miles or so. Made an ppt at dealer and they told me they needed to change the oil and watch to see if it rises up. that was at 4500 miles.

they used the motorcraft blend and ford filter. it rose up to the top dot by 1500 miles later and i spoke with the service manager who told me as long as the "cold" reading is below top dot, i am good and don't have an issue even tho manual says to check after 15 minutes engine has been off. He told me the checking while hot is a guideline but best to check 4 hours more after engine stopped.

the oil proceeded to stay at that level, right below top dot when cold. I never checked hot becasue i figured they changed it and its on them.

I changed it last time with about 5000 miles on the oil.

the only oil i could find that was synthetic was the valvoline extreme 5w30. that matches all of the ford specs so i used it.

well, when i added, i added too much but not too much. reading was past the top hash when hot but right below when cold. Now, 500 miles later, the cold reading it right below top hole. hot reading is PAST the top hole some.

So I am at a crossroads. Do i:

1) remove some of the oil in there and if so what's best way:
a) drain plug
b) suck thru dipstick hole
2) do another change- i have the 5w30 advanced valvoline which i have always ued...

as far as draining some:

s a or b best? i am thinking since fule is in the oil, won't the gas settle at the top of the oil so maybe siphoning some fluid thru dipstick would get more gas IF done cold?

if i do cold, and use drain, won't the majority of that fluid be oil as gas would be above the oil? then if i use drain plug, do after it's ran some?

or just do a complete oil change again with filter?

thoughts?
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Dr3wDrop

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Its crazy to me how many different threads there are about this. IMO as long as the oil does not go past the top hole, don't worry about it. That is basically the consensus I have read on here.

Here is the oil on my dipstick. It was centered between the hash marks the day I changed it. 600 or so miles later it has rose to this top hole. FYI, when I changed the oil I only added 6qts. Not 6.2 like the manual calls for.

Oil Level.jpeg
 

rcairflr

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So I am at a crossroads. Do i:

1) remove some of the oil in there and if so what's best way:
a) drain plug
b) suck thru dipstick hole
2) do another change- i have the 5w30 advanced valvoline which i have always ued...



thoughts?
IMO you do options 3. Go drive it and quit worrying about something that is common with what others are seeing as well. If it goes above the"hole" then start worrying.
You have this documented at the dealer, they werent concerned, so go drive.
 
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silverflash

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IMO you do options 3. Go drive it and quit worrying about something that is common with what others are seeing as well. If it goes above the"hole" then start worrying.
You have this documented at the dealer, they werent concerned, so go drive.
it is above the hole! when hot.
 


Samsquanch

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Some fuel dilution is ubiquitous with direct inject engines. It’s just the nature of the beast. Check bobs oil forum for the literally tons of posts on fuel dilution across nearly every make and model available with DI engines. Some cars like the Honda 1.5 engine had it worst than others, but the “fix” there was just an ECU flash to change the fueling behavior at start up as far as I know. Most all people with those engines still seem to report some fuel dilution because it’s basically unavoidable with a DI engine, especially a cold one.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

Gas and oil are miscible, gas doesn’t settle on top it mixes with the oil.

if you’re concerned get an oil analysis. There is no other method to really discern if there is a “problem” or normal engine behavior. Blackstone is kinda over used on this forum. Their readings definitely aren’t meaningless but aren’t the best way to really get fuel dilution information. I believe oil analyzers uses GC or FTIR which are analytical instruments with a significantly more accurate measurement of fuel dilution % in oil.

Only a small handful of people in the mega thread seem to have a real issue with fuel dilution caused by a failure of some specific part. Many more in my opinion are experiencing “normal” levels of fuel dilution and conflating that with the failures others have had which are separate, more rare issues.

When my truck was new my fuel reeked of oil and I thought I had a more substantial issue. By the second oil change it seems to behave fairly similar to yours but doesn’t quite go as high. The differences could easily be attributed to driving style, commute length, weather, etc.

Very long post to basically say don’t worry unless you verify you have a real problem. If you get an oil analysis done go ahead and post the results in the mega thread or on an oil specific forum and see what others think.
 

D Fresh

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You should leave it alone and drive it.

Pick an interval, change your oil then. Use full synthetic or MotorCraft blend. Enjoy.

Also, this isn't 1989. No need for an oil change at 1500 miles. And that is certainly too soon to switch to full synthetic.
 

Samsquanch

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Also, this isn't 1989. No need for an oil change at 1500 miles. And that is certainly too soon to switch to full synthetic.
Although vehicles themselves have gotten overly complicated, the advancements in engine oil are one of the best automotive related things to come out of the last few decades. It would really suck to be on 2000 mile intervals again!
 

McLeadslinger

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These motors hold a lot of oil in the top of the motor, cylinder head and turbo. You won’t get all of it out and there will always be residual.

this constant worry about oil levels is getting ridiculous.
 

McLeadslinger

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I Run Motul 300v full Synthetic and WIX filters in all my boosted cars and my Ranger . That would get expensive!! Lol. It’s about $100 an oil change.

Although vehicles themselves have gotten overly complicated, the advancements in engine oil are one of the best automotive related things to come out of the last few decades. It would really suck to be on 2000 mile intervals again!
 

Langwilliams

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I'm kinda old fashioned about break in oil changes. I did a change at 3K then 6K with synthetic blend to allow break in then switched to full synthetic Mobile one. I know some cars come from the factory with full synthetic but I think the molecules are too fine to allow rings to wear into the piston walls. I had the high fuel level an strong fuel smell an it went away. Was it my break in procedure or luck I don't know.
 

Dgc333

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I have been driving 2.3 Ecoboost powered vehicles for 6.5 years now. In that time I have found that it takes a long time for all the oil to drain back into the pan and there is a significant difference in the level on the dip stick between cold and hot. If you check the oil cold and it is at the top of the hash marks it will be at the top hole when hot, even after a couple of hours it will still be in between the hash marks and the top hole.

As far as I am concerned the only way to get consistent oil level checks is to do it first thing in the morning before starting the engine when it is cold. Using this method I have never seen the oil level climbing on my three 2.3 Ecoboost vehicles.
 

yamahaSHO

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I Run Motul 300v full Synthetic and WIX filters in all my boosted cars and my Ranger . That would get expensive!! Lol. It’s about $100 an oil change.
What weight of 300v are you using? I was looking at 5w40, 300v. I also use it in my turbo and hard-run/track cars (STi, turbo S2000, various RZR's, etc.). I follow up with sampling, so I'll do the same with the Ranger as I'll be towing pretty often.
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