Morimoto XB LED Dash hyper flash issues. "Left side only"

[Waxthis]

2 years ago I installed the Morimoto XB Led headlamps, replacing the halogens. The lights are a serious upgrade over stock and have been great so far with only one annoying issue, hyper flash on the dash, left turn signal. Now, this only happens the first time the struck is started and you hit the left turn signal for the first time, after that its fine till you shut the truck off and start it up again. I contacted Morimoto about a month after this started and they said most likely the light was bad and to send it back and they will ship out a new one. Well, a fender bender expedited this and a new one was installed by the body shop, hyper flash remains. I also might mention I have never seen the supposed start up sequence they say happens when the truck starts up, I just get a quick flash of the passenger turn signal.

During the last conversation with Morimoto they told me to switch from fuse 19 to 24 as they said that has seemed to resolve the issue, well, I tried that and no change, even if the new location was the fix, the fuse tap is too short because there is a tall 10 amp fuse next to spot 24, the fuse tap will need to be longer. To be honest I'm not very impressed with their tech support, I feel they throw things at the wall to see what sticks.

Anyhow, has anyone had luck with this issue, if so what was your fix.... Thanks!

There was a prior thread on this but nothing resolved that I saw.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/issues-with-morimoto-xb-headlights.23043/

Sponsored

 

[Colo_Ranger]

Shot in the dark: Have you disabled hyperflashing using Forscan? Sounds like the truck doesn't recognize the LED turn signal until its used once.

 

[Waxthis]

Shot in the dark: Have you disabled hyperflashing using Forscan? Sounds like the truck doesn't recognize the LED turn signal until its used once.

Hmm...Good point, I'll give that a try. Although it would be good to know whats causing this and a resolution to start up sequence not working, being that's what they brag about. LOL

 

[Colo_Ranger]

Hmm...Good point, I'll give that a try. Although it would be good to know whats causing this and a resolution to start up sequence not working, being that's what they brag about. LOL

resistance does weird things. Start there and let me know.

Also, the fuse chosen for switched power might now enable until later in the start sequence, causing the lights to come one without their start sequence and jumping to on.

 

[airline tech]

For the Hyper-Flash issue, start the truck and hit the L-Turn - have a helper.
Check the LR - LF and Mirror - monitoring the light at the beginning of the (Flashing)
This may note (highlight) if any of the lights are (intermittent) or (delayed) at that point of operation.
Plus (at the time of it Hyper Flashing) scan for a code.
My thought is, possibly something other than the Morimoto Light.

Other Operational Issues - Delayed Operation, Start-Up Sequence - Flickering Etc.

These are my thoughts (for this issue) and cannot confirm without actually having them plugged in to test and get a meter on the circuits in question. Then play with Forscan settings and retest.

The issue is tied into the BCM settings - and how the BCM handles an extra tap for power with the factory (OE) settings. The BCM is still trying to control the headlamps etc as if the Factory Halos are installed.
Then throw in a (Oh this is COOL) start-up sequence as it powers up. (So, the Mori's) have an additional module power must go through to (get that sequence) so I can assume that is also tapped to the DRL power.

So, if we look at voltage travel (we are talking) Milliseconds here:
Fuse 19 is the (First) fuse to be powered after the (Run/Start) relay closes. (PSCM) fuse #24 is after. If even a (Usable) slot - the diagrams show not used (and it's an empty spot) no contacts for power installed.
So, if it had a place to install the fuse (may have some bearing) on this issue, other than its empty and not powering anything else, a slight power draw (at start-up) when the PSCM powers off of fuse #19 and the headlights are trying to power up at the same time. May be slightly maxing out the fuse limitations (before blowing)
(Getting near the 10 Amp) circuit rating

So, my thought is the double power feed as the Root Cause of the issues, now you can play with Forscan settings and turning off the (DRL) in the IPC settings to get the BCM to play nice.
Moreso, you need to tell the BCM that the Turn Function is not separate from the DRL like it is in the Halos.
I think that is the reasoning as to why (Ford) kept the (Turn) circuit separate in the factory LED's.
So, since I posted (settings) I verified when I switched from my (LED Deleted) Halos back to factory LED - I used the As-Built files for a Factory LED set-up and changed all of them to match a LED set-up.

Finding that sweet spot setting (MIGHT) allow these to play nice with the BCM and ZERO issues for all and if possible - get rid of that extra power tap, which is where I am limited as I cannot see exactly how they are wired internally and their reasoning for adding that extra power tapped source. I THINK its because they cannot market something where you have to use Forscan to get them to work properly, and the tapped power was the work around for it.

Now as to why - some are ZERO ISSUES, and some are CONSTANT ISSUES ---IDK
The only variable is the BCM

So, some playing with (Forscan) is needed for the Mori's and any other aftermarket headlamp assembly - to FIND the proper setting to move power around (BCM) to get the BCM to play nice with the factors that the Factory LED's do not have.

1. Turns incorporated on the DRL circuit, switchback (color changing) DRL - PARK - TURN light.
2. The Start-Up sequence.
3. The ability to make the Turn (sequential) from the added plug the Mori's have (most likely) going through the same module that the startup sequence is using.

If I had a set - I would start off by changing the As-Builts to the Factory LED settings and then play with the settings - if no help- kill tapped power and try again.

Suggest trying these settings and (alter) if needed, also NOTE post #2

Updated Findings for Lariat Headlight Swap | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

 

[Rp930]

I don’t know how they stay in business.

 

[airline tech]

Ok All,

I found 3 As-Built files that may tie into the issues for the Aftermarket Lights
IDK - If any of these are tied to the (Easy Way) Config Settings and may not be getting touched or changed if you are only using the (Easy Way)

Check these Files:

BCM:
726-24-01
0000-00C0-D0E2 (Factory - Halo)
0000-0000-D022 (Factory - LED)
Specific's - DRL DTC (Inhibit or Normal)
xxCx = C-Inhibit ----xx0x (Normal)
So, for the factory Halo's it is set to inhibit and with LED is set to normal.

726-29-01
0000-0000-0259 (Factory - Halo)
0000-0000-0158 (Factory - LED)
Specific's - VRMS Target Configure
x2xx - Type 2 -- 01xx - Type 1
So, Type 2 = Halos Installed & Type 1 = LED's Installed
So, this is a voltage supply setting but not clear what light circuit it is actually for.
Headlights or DRL Circuit or Park & Turn

726-61-02
1600-0000-01A7 (Factory - Halo)
1601-0100-01A9 (Factory - LED)
Specific's - LF & RF DRL Lamp Circuit Configure
xxx0-x0xx (Not Used) ---- xxx1-x1xx (Used)

So, it may be possible that one if not all of these As-Built files may fix the issues you are having with the Aftermarket Headlamp Assemblies, it's going to be a TRY THIS setting until someone posts hey this (FIXED) the issue or (NO HELP)

So, if you are swapping from Halo's to any LED assembly and are having issues with them, check the above files and change to the (Factory-LED) settings if they are not already set.

Hopefully, this might help resolve the issues.

 

[Waxthis]

For the Hyper-Flash issue, start the truck and hit the L-Turn - have a helper.
Check the LR - LF and Mirror - monitoring the light at the beginning of the (Flashing)
This may note (highlight) if any of the lights are (intermittent) or (delayed) at that point of operation.
Plus (at the time of it Hyper Flashing) scan for a code.
My thought is, possibly something other than the Morimoto Light.

Other Operational Issues - Delayed Operation, Start-Up Sequence - Flickering Etc.

These are my thoughts (for this issue) and cannot confirm without actually having them plugged in to test and get a meter on the circuits in question. Then play with Forscan settings and retest.

The issue is tied into the BCM settings - and how the BCM handles an extra tap for power with the factory (OE) settings. The BCM is still trying to control the headlamps etc as if the Factory Halos are installed.
Then throw in a (Oh this is COOL) start-up sequence as it powers up. (So, the Mori's) have an additional module power must go through to (get that sequence) so I can assume that is also tapped to the DRL power.

So, if we look at voltage travel (we are talking) Milliseconds here:
Fuse 19 is the (First) fuse to be powered after the (Run/Start) relay closes. (PSCM) fuse #24 is after. If even a (Usable) slot - the diagrams show not used (and it's an empty spot) no contacts for power installed.
So, if it had a place to install the fuse (may have some bearing) on this issue, other than its empty and not powering anything else, a slight power draw (at start-up) when the PSCM powers off of fuse #19 and the headlights are trying to power up at the same time. May be slightly maxing out the fuse limitations (before blowing)
(Getting near the 10 Amp) circuit rating

So, my thought is the double power feed as the Root Cause of the issues, now you can play with Forscan settings and turning off the (DRL) in the IPC settings to get the BCM to play nice.
Moreso, you need to tell the BCM that the Turn Function is not separate from the DRL like it is in the Halos.
I think that is the reasoning as to why (Ford) kept the (Turn) circuit separate in the factory LED's.
So, since I posted (settings) I verified when I switched from my (LED Deleted) Halos back to factory LED - I used the As-Built files for a Factory LED set-up and changed all of them to match a LED set-up.

Finding that sweet spot setting (MIGHT) allow these to play nice with the BCM and ZERO issues for all and if possible - get rid of that extra power tap, which is where I am limited as I cannot see exactly how they are wired internally and their reasoning for adding that extra power tapped source. I THINK its because they cannot market something where you have to use Forscan to get them to work properly, and the tapped power was the work around for it.

Now as to why - some are ZERO ISSUES, and some are CONSTANT ISSUES ---IDK
The only variable is the BCM

So, some playing with (Forscan) is needed for the Mori's and any other aftermarket headlamp assembly - to FIND the proper setting to move power around (BCM) to get the BCM to play nice with the factors that the Factory LED's do not have.

1. Turns incorporated on the DRL circuit, switchback (color changing) DRL - PARK - TURN light.
2. The Start-Up sequence.
3. The ability to make the Turn (sequential) from the added plug the Mori's have (most likely) going through the same module that the startup sequence is using.

If I had a set - I would start off by changing the As-Builts to the Factory LED settings and then play with the settings - if no help- kill tapped power and try again.

Suggest trying these settings and (alter) if needed, also NOTE post #2

Updated Findings for Lariat Headlight Swap | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

Thank you for this info sir!

 

[Waxthis]

Ok All,

I found 3 As-Built files that may tie into the issues for the Aftermarket Lights
IDK - If any of these are tied to the (Easy Way) Config Settings and may not be getting touched or changed if you are only using the (Easy Way)

Check these Files:

BCM:
726-24-01
0000-00C0-D0E2 (Factory - Halo)
0000-0000-D022 (Factory - LED)
Specific's - DRL DTC (Inhibit or Normal)
xxCx = C-Inhibit ----xx0x (Normal)
So, for the factory Halo's it is set to inhibit and with LED is set to normal.

726-29-01
0000-0000-0259 (Factory - Halo)
0000-0000-0158 (Factory - LED)
Specific's - VRMS Target Configure
x2xx - Type 2 -- 01xx - Type 1
So, Type 2 = Halos Installed & Type 1 = LED's Installed
So, this is a voltage supply setting but not clear what light circuit it is actually for.
Headlights or DRL Circuit or Park & Turn

726-61-02
1600-0000-01A7 (Factory - Halo)
1601-0100-01A9 (Factory - LED)
Specific's - LF & RF DRL Lamp Circuit Configure
xxx0-x0xx (Not Used) ---- xxx1-x1xx (Used)

So, it may be possible that one if not all of these As-Built files may fix the issues you are having with the Aftermarket Headlamp Assemblies, it's going to be a TRY THIS setting until someone posts hey this (FIXED) the issue or (NO HELP)

So, if you are swapping from Halo's to any LED assembly and are having issues with them, check the above files and change to the (Factory-LED) settings if they are not already set.

Hopefully, this might help resolve the issues.

Simple enough, I'll give it a shot. Thanks

Sponsored