Morimoto XB LED

[RaptorZ]

I agree, after looking closely at the pictures, it appears your left (drivers) light is way too high and your right may be too low. You really need to find a level area with a wall you can project your lights on from 20-25 feet away. You should have a clean cut-off line at about the hight of your headlights. There should be little to no light scatter above this line. There will be a small step up to the right side. This is normal as they are to project farther down your lane than the oncoming one. Be sure to have you fog/driving lights off when you do this. As they can confuse the issue.

Thank you for clarifying that I was not going crazy...just another thing I'll have to let them know about but I do appreciate your opinion

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[RaptorZ]

I would say as long as it is working, just leave it as is for now.
My only concern would be addressing the darkened areas of the light output.

1. Are they properly Aimed, as Aiming them is required, the adjustment (IF NEEDED) may help move the darkened area down to where it is not as noticeable.

2. If you view the headlights (Head-On) does it appear that the outside light source is cutoff, this MAY be due to the power source not being correct, IDK but it could play into it as a factor.
As I am curious if changing the Hex-Codes would eliminate that darkened area.

3. It could just be the design of the headlamp housing itself,

In finding locals who have Forscan, I would look at Truck Specialty shops due to the fact that Forscan is highly popular with the F-150.

Forscan is not all that difficult to use and with the Forscan software plus the OBD Link EX adaptor and a working windows laptop it is only about a $75.00 investment.

I never used Forscan prior to Oct 2022, and I got it specifically for the Ranger, I just watched some of the how to videos on youtube to get started and comfortable in using it.

Forscan will also give you the option to personalize various settings and features on the truck that are available on the truck but not a user selection on the IPC.
It also gives you a somewhat factory level scan tool, it does have limitations on what you can do with it using it as a troubleshooting tool, but it at least allows you to read and clear codes for all modules.

As far as Factory LED @ 1700.00 ea, you have to shop around as that was the price I was looking at as well but found this website and they are actually a local dealer near me, so I saved on shipping.

Headlamp Components for 2022 Ford Ranger | Ford Parts Direct (oemfordpartsdirect.com)

Example:
Part # / Description
Price
1

Headlamp Assembly
KB3Z-13008-A

Ford
Headlamp Assembly, Right
Ranger. Right. Reserve series (lariat).
MSRP $1,676.43
$1,106.45

I brought your info to them, they were impressed....they're going to look into the forscan option

 

[yamahaSHO]

Thank you for clarifying that I was not going crazy...just another thing I'll have to let them know about but I do appreciate your opinion

It's nothing you need to tell them about. When you put in any new headlight, you have to aim it. I did a quick and dirty on mine. Before taking out the OEM lights, I used tape on the wall in front about 15 feet away to mark roughly where the cutoff was on the OEM light. I then aimed one side and then matched the high mark of the step from side to side.

 

[Gizmokid2005]

I didn't scour through the whole thread, so it may have been mentioned.

At least with my Alpharex lights, which did require an additional pigtail to be wired to switched 12v power, I didn't have to touch FORscan.

In the dash, under vehicle settings, there's an option to disable low-beams with DRLs, and that makes it so only the LED strip lights up and not the projectors as well. A lot of people seem to miss that this exists or is all you need to change.

 

[airline tech]

I didn't scour through the whole thread, so it may have been mentioned.

At least with my Alpharex lights, which did require an additional pigtail to be wired to switched 12v power, I didn't have to touch FORscan.

In the dash, under vehicle settings, there's an option to disable low-beams with DRLs, and that makes it so only the LED strip lights up and not the projectors as well. A lot of people seem to miss that this exists or is all you need to change.

Yes, some of the aftermarket options have a secondary source for power for the DRLs, however (not confirmed) I believe that this is actually not required.
It is the manufacturers way of bypassing the need to use Forscan to power them, if you are switching from Halo to LED assemblies.
The IPC selection as operated with factory headlights, gives you the option to turn off the DRLs, with Halos this is the Low Beams @ 50 % power.

With aftermarket installed and an additional source of power to the DRL this selection in the IPC becomes turning off the Low Beam - DRL power, but does not turn off the DRLs.

So since I do not have aftermarket and swapped for Factory LEDs from stock Halos I can only confirm what Forscan changes were required to get them to work correctly.

I cannot say 100% certain that the aftermarket solutions will work with the same settings and remove that added power source, as I feel it is not required and was only intended to bypass the need for Forscan, they work but the BCM is still powering them as Halos and MAY generate issues in operation.

so the only way to know for sure is to try a compared operation check between both install options, do they function better on install A or B

Being that the truck is finicky on adding any lighting source - Hyper-Flash issues,
It makes a difference on how it’s powered and what light source is being added.

 

[airline tech]

I thought of pinning in to run the Morimoto DRL's like OEM, however, without constant power to the Morimoto's, you'll get a hyper flash every now and again on the left side and any time you turn on the DRL's, it'll do the stupid startup sequence.

Is this operational function with the tapped power removed and Forscan changes made to the factory LED settings or are you swapping the tapped power source at the pins.

 

[Ronbo]

FWIW, I initially wanted the Morimoto XB’s but the price was a bit too steep. I took a chance on these VLAND Matrix Triple LED’s (Morimoto XB style look-a-likes) for $400./pr. Installed them myself and they were true plug and play. Perfect OEM fit with no gaps or trimming required. No hyperflash. These lights replaced the Halos on my XLT. No mods required through Forscan what so ever. Pretty Happy with them.

DRL’s Only

Main LED Headlights with the DrL trim.

Night Low Beams

Nighttime High Beams

Turn Signals turn amber and can be set to either sequential or straight flash.

 

[1pt21gw]

It's nothing you need to tell them about. When you put in any new headlight, you have to aim it. I did a quick and dirty on mine. Before taking out the OEM lights, I used tape on the wall in front about 15 feet away to mark roughly where the cutoff was on the OEM light. I then aimed one side and then matched the high mark of the step from side to side.

Nice mower!

Oh man do I miss my Hustler Zero Turn. Had mine from '02 to'05. Did an acre 3x in 45 min. Golf Course quality lawn care! I even had them put my name in a rear bumper. Kept that when I had to let it go.

 

[Big Blue]

FWIW, I initially wanted the Morimoto XB’s but the price was a bit too steep. I took a chance on these VLAND Matrix Triple LED’s (Morimoto XB style look-a-likes) for $400./pr. Installed them myself and they were true plug and play. Perfect OEM fit with no gaps or trimming required. No hyperflash. These lights replaced the Halos on my XLT. No mods required through Forscan what so ever. Pretty Happy with them.

DRL’s Only

Main LED Headlights with the DrL trim.

Night Low Beams

Nighttime High Beams

Turn Signals turn amber and can be set to either sequential or straight flash.

I have looked at these, like the looks a lot, except for the amber side markers. But have always been leery because their website shows a separate plug for the turn indicator and a separate harness to be used for the DRLs if your truck does not have DRLs. The halo Ranger lights use the low beams at half power for the DRL. Yet, you are saying plug and play and no Forscan changes. Plug and play to me, means I install and plug in my existing harness and it works. Not sure how this can be, unless my definition on plug and play is different than yours. Would maybe need to see the full install instructions for the North American version.

 

[RaptorZ]

Yes, some of the aftermarket options have a secondary source for power for the DRLs, however (not confirmed) I believe that this is actually not required.
It is the manufacturers way of bypassing the need to use Forscan to power them, if you are switching from Halo to LED assemblies.
The IPC selection as operated with factory headlights, gives you the option to turn off the DRLs, with Halos this is the Low Beams @ 50 % power.

With aftermarket installed and an additional source of power to the DRL this selection in the IPC becomes turning off the Low Beam - DRL power, but does not turn off the DRLs.

So since I do not have aftermarket and swapped for Factory LEDs from stock Halos I can only confirm what Forscan changes were required to get them to work correctly.

I cannot say 100% certain that the aftermarket solutions will work with the same settings and remove that added power source, as I feel it is not required and was only intended to bypass the need for Forscan, they work but the BCM is still powering them as Halos and MAY generate issues in operation.

so the only way to know for sure is to try a compared operation check between both install options, do they function better on install A or B

Being that the truck is finicky on adding any lighting source - Hyper-Flash issues,
It makes a difference on how it’s powered and what light source is being added.

I thought of pinning in to run the Morimoto DRL's like OEM, however, without constant power to the Morimoto's, you'll get a hyper flash every now and again on the left side and any time you turn on the DRL's, it'll do the stupid startup sequence.

you are right....the fix does not require Forscan either, I got a hold of a guy at Morimoto that knew what was happening, and he said I could try the Forscan to change to factory LED settings however, I would run into.....hyper flashing and other weird quirks, but the real answer was below: This may have been said in a previous post and I didn't understand but now I do, once installed on the left wheel control.
1) Left arrow
2) Settings
3) Vehicle
4) Lighting
5) Uncheck Daytime Lights

boom they work as expected, I hope this whole thread helps others as much as it did me....


Thank you All for your insight on this, every post here got me to the right answer in the end.

 

[Gizmokid2005]

you are right....the fix does not require Forscan either, I got a hold of a guy at Morimoto that knew what was happening, and he said I could try the Forscan to change to factory LED settings however, I would run into.....hyper flashing and other weird quirks, but the real answer was below: This may have been said in a previous post and I didn't understand but now I do, once installed on the left wheel control.
1) Left arrow
2) Settings
3) Vehicle
4) Lighting
5) Uncheck Daytime Lights

boom they work as expected, I hope this whole thread helps others as much as it did me....

I hope the shop that did my lights doesn't read this b/c they said they'd research what I sent and last I spoke with them (friday) I could tell they didn't research shit and he said he called Morimoto and they gave him the run around....if he does, you're welcome for all of us doing his job...

Thank you All for your insight on this, every post here got me to the right answer in the end.

I didn't scour through the whole thread, so it may have been mentioned.

At least with my Alpharex lights, which did require an additional pigtail to be wired to switched 12v power, I didn't have to touch FORscan.

In the dash, under vehicle settings, there's an option to disable low-beams with DRLs, and that makes it so only the LED strip lights up and not the projectors as well. A lot of people seem to miss that this exists or is all you need to change.

Called it!

It's such a simple thing and nobody seems to actually call it out anywhere.

 

[RaptorZ]

Called it!

It's such a simple thing and nobody seems to actually call it out anywhere.

yes you did amigo...I think i got caught up on the pigtail part, and wouldn't ya know a fellow SQL dev...

 

[airline tech]

As stated above, all the IPC selection is doing is turning off the DRL, secondary source of power which is actually the Low Beams @ 50 % power as long as it works is all that matters, just keep in mind though that without a Forscan change , that option must be left in the position you have it in.

 

[RaptorZ]

As stated above, all the IPC selection is doing is turning off the DRL, secondary source of power which is actually the Low Beams @ 50 % power as long as it works is all that matters, just keep in mind though that without a Forscan change , that option must be left in the position you have it in.

I was waiting for you to respond. And I recall you saying that above

so now that I have a better understanding, curious, what would you suggest i change with a forscan change? Morimoto stated that changing it to factory settings for LED would most likely cause Hyper flash.

Is it working correctly? well for the 5 minutes after fixing it it seemed to....that being said....

you can patch a hole in the wall with some balled up newspaper and spackle or you can get some drywall measure an cut appropriately and fill in the hole properly....I don't want to b using the wadded up newspaper method for this fix.

 

[airline tech]

Since you do not have Forscan:
I would just leave it as is, it's working, that's the end goal.
If it starts working incorrectly, then venture into the Forscan changes.

If you had Forscan, then it would be a quick 5 minutes, make the changes.
Check Operation, do they Hyper-Flash or operate any differently as compared to the added tapped power way?
If so, then keep them with tapped power, if they operate normally, keep the Forscan way, if they fault later down the road, switch back to the added power way.

The mechanic side of me, would want to at least try the Forscan operation, but as long as they are working now, that's all that truly matters.

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