Maximizing Battery Life

[FiveChime]

Thanks @TJC

Everyone already owns my personal info these days due to my phone, smart tv etc. so I’m not worried about ford knowing my truck history, and want to keep the ability to unlock and start from the app.

To avoid parasitic voltage drop while not on and parked outside, I came across this and think it should work well especially since I have a custom rack on my bed that will make a nice mounting platform. https://pulsetech.com/products/sola...-mount-trailer-panel-solar-charger-maintainer

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[maxbottomtime]

How do people feel about this battery (and the lariat sized battery cover)?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStar...ze-H7-LN4-94R-12-Volt-850-CCA-140-RC/40685088

 

[TJC]

Thanks @TJC

Everyone already owns my personal info these days due to my phone, smart tv etc. so I’m not worried about ford knowing my truck history, and want to keep the ability to unlock and start from the app.

To avoid parasitic voltage drop while not on and parked outside, I came across this and think it should work well especially since I have a custom rack on my bed that will make a nice mounting platform. https://pulsetech.com/products/sola...-mount-trailer-panel-solar-charger-maintainer

Re: Charger
Most any charger will do, but it must apply more current than the parasitic dark current draw. I read the Ford specs on dark current draw, but have forgotten it.

Re: Privacy
Most folks feel the same way you do regarding their privacy. And that is OK. Whatever floats your boat.

I am fiercely privacy minded, and I understand that I am swimming against the current.

They are increasingly embedding trackers in all manner of products!

When friends and family visit I ask that they leave the phones at home or place them in a Faraday pouch well before they arrive at my home, or we simply meet in a public park. Otherwise I go to their homes, and they don't come to mine. I own a smart phone but I can turn it off which really cuts the power to the phone. I can also mechanically pull power from the WiFi, BlueTooth, Camera and Microphone via hardware switches. My cars no longer have cell phones or GPS trackers.

I deal primarily in cash transactions for the same reason.

 

[TJC]

How do people feel about this battery (and the lariat sized battery cover)?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStar...ze-H7-LN4-94R-12-Volt-850-CCA-140-RC/40685088

I'd go with the biggest amperage battery that will fit in the tray.

 

[maxbottomtime]

I'd go with the biggest amperage battery that will fit in the tray.

Thanks! I've not seen any posts on changing out beyond the lariat, so was planning that route.

 

[IdahoRanger]

How do people feel about this battery (and the lariat sized battery cover)?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStar...ze-H7-LN4-94R-12-Volt-850-CCA-140-RC/40685088

Put this in my Lariat a couple months ago so can't verify how long it will last. The Everlast in my wife's Outback is 5 1/2 years old.

 

[dtech]

I just spent several hours going thru the posts here as I’m at a juncture. Great stuff here!

I’m nearing the end of my original stock H6 battery life (2019 XLT), which was extended due to me installing an additional battery in parallel to help power an insanely large industrial compressor a year or so after getting the truck.

I’d noticed some instances of the ASS not working and installed a dual voltage meter so I could see what was going on with both batteries at all times. Photo added to show both batteries at 15v while driving. My guess is the alternator is going hard to recharge the batteries (they were showing 12.1v this morning when I turned the key to power up truck but before cranking).

Had the truck in for warranty work recently (was with Ford nearly a month getting a door rust issue resolved). Ford told me my battery was at 60% and should be replaced. I declined, as I already have replacements ready and they had no idea I have two batteries.

Given my high accessory amp draw (170amp compressor that runs as needed and only while truck is on/alternator working), I’ve been a bit tuned into monitoring the battery usage and unhappy with the BMS. How could Ford invest in technology that wasn’t good for batteries? Haha. After reading @TJC and @Airline tech’s trials and tribulations I am convinced I need to pull the plug when I install the new batteries.

My questions are:

which onboard desulfator is the way to go (I’ve seen two referenced)?

Does simply unplugging solve the charge rate issue or do I need to invest in Forscan to change the SOC percentage?

Do I need to disable other systems to prevent dark drain? I have a remote start key fob that I use regularly and want to keep.

What does telematics control?

Thanks!

As info, the batteries I’ll be installing in parallel are:

Odyssey Battery ODP-AGM94RH7L4 Performance Series AGM Battery https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odp-agm94r-h7-l4-battery-94r-850/

And a Odyssey Battery - ODX-AGM27M - ODYSSEY 27M-PC1750 https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odx-agm27m-battery-nsb-agm27m/

Interesting as I recall reading somewhere that when 2 batteries are used it's best to disable the smart (variable voltage) and use the fixed output mode this can be accomplished by disconnect of the bms sensor at the neg cable. The reasoning behind this iirc is the sensor that detects load is only on one battery, this input is key for operation of the smart alternator. In any case disco of the bms will generally keep both batteries In a higher soc than using the bms system. In some cases using the bms and keeping the factory soc will result in premature battery failure, operating conditions vary widely from vehicle to vehicle so ymmv. I agree with tjc on the parasitic draw, it appears to be high on the Ranger. I've seen studies on actual gas savings using ass but little on what smart alternators can save probably owing to the large nos of variable inputs involved .

 

[airline tech]

Since you are one of the few who have or plan on having a - Full Time Aux Battery without a trailer hooked up (Charging A Trailer Battery)

This is from the Body Equipment Builders Manual - for the Ranger

A few notes:
My recent play with FDRS did not show any (Quick Links) to disable the SRC, so unsure what this manual is referencing (I can assume it is - Disabling the BMS that same as Forscan would and alter the As-Built Files (Like Forscan)
Not this MAY be available from the Dealer Level (Sign-On) access, again I assume its the same thing only (wording different) here in this document.

Another Note: Ref (B+) connection, there is not an extra spot for hook-up as stated on the BMFL however mounted below the (BJB) - Engine Bay (Fuse Box) there is a High-Current Fuse box with an extra port that a (+) cable can be connected.
For Non-Tremmer Trucks

I know that there are youtube videos about hook up and how they operate (External DC/DC) charger and when the (Aux Battery) begins charging, I believe it is similar to how the De-Sulf operates.
With priority given to the (Main) battery then charger kicks in and charges the (Aux)

More research is needed - with install of (Aux) battery

I would say if its lasted this long, then possible to just disable the BMS or Up the SOC may be beneficial enough to forgo an additional charger as described in this manual.

Note: This is the only (Mention) of any alteration of the BMS or charging system in any Ford Document (Note- they do not elaborate on it either)

 

[airline tech]

Here is a Short Thread on Dual Batteries

Don't know if you want to get this elaborate or not, or even your existing set-up.

Dual Battery Setups | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

 

[FiveChime]

Here is a Short Thread on Dual Batteries

Don't know if you want to get this elaborate or not, or even your existing set-up.

Dual Battery Setups | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

Thanks it looks like most of these guys want weekend camping setups but there’s not much useful about running two batteries parallel like I did.

Disconnecting the BMS seems like the way to go for me. I’m also going to look into adding a solar maintainer.

 

[FiveChime]

Since you are one of the few who have or plan on having a - Full Time Aux Battery without a trailer hooked up (Charging A Trailer Battery)

This is from the Body Equipment Builders Manual - for the Ranger

A few notes:
My recent play with FDRS did not show any (Quick Links) to disable the SRC, so unsure what this manual is referencing (I can assume it is - Disabling the BMS that same as Forscan would and alter the As-Built Files (Like Forscan)
Not this MAY be available from the Dealer Level (Sign-On) access, again I assume its the same thing only (wording different) here in this document.

Another Note: Ref (B+) connection, there is not an extra spot for hook-up as stated on the BMFL however mounted below the (BJB) - Engine Bay (Fuse Box) there is a High-Current Fuse box with an extra port that a (+) cable can be connected.
For Non-Tremmer Trucks

I know that there are youtube videos about hook up and how they operate (External DC/DC) charger and when the (Aux Battery) begins charging, I believe it is similar to how the De-Sulf operates.
With priority given to the (Main) battery then charger kicks in and charges the (Aux)

More research is needed - with install of (Aux) battery

I would say if its lasted this long, then possible to just disable the BMS or Up the SOC may be beneficial enough to forgo an additional charger as described in this manual.

Note: This is the only (Mention) of any alteration of the BMS or charging system in any Ford Document (Note- they do not elaborate on it either)

Interesting stuff! My dual battery setup has been working great for over a year, and my issue is coming from the stupid BMS 75% charge rate. Totally obliterates what I’m trying to do, so I’m disconnecting it. I need to desulfate and charge my batteries cuz they’ve been put in danger zone due to this system and me running them hard without enough time for the alternator to get them back to adequate charge (kinda hard especially since it’s only gonna get them to 75% how I had it installed)!

Adding a solar maintainer should help even further and mitigate the parasitic drain.

 

[mark_anderson_us]

Our modern autos are almost too complicated for their own good! The old rules no longer apply, and our new autos are much more fragile than our largely mechanical cars of the past. I've purchased two items that I think may help me (and maybe others) avoid one of the pitfalls, short battery life.... and the accompanying problems of having to have your truck systems resetting to defaults and needing to relearn your driving style. Another member noticed transmission shift issues beginning after the battery was removed.

About 10 years ago I purchased a BatteryMINDer Model OBD-12 Desulfator for 2 of my vehicles. It is a simple to hook up device that breaks down the sulfur crystals on the lead battery plates whenever your engine is running and charge voltage is >13.5v. Since installing, my batteries last 3x longer than my neighbors. I got 10 years out of my last two batteries in both vehicles that had these Desulfators installed in them.

I have just ordered another one for my 2020 Ranger. Prices have gone up since then (was $35) and the best price I could find was at an RV shop for $82 delivered to the door. This website is a little tricky and has a link to click to get the lower price of ~$65 + tax + shipping instead of the price listed at ~$79.

Here is a picture of the BM desulfator installed in my 2005 Ranger. It is sitting on the antilock brake module next to the battery. Nothing more than Velcro holding it in place. Been there for a very long time, 10-15 years. I've lost track of when I purchased it. I just put battery #3 in the truck 3 months ago. So 2 batteries replaced in 17 years, and the first one went a few years without the desulfator installed.

The second item was purchased quite a while back when I bought the truck. It is a small 12 volt adapter that is designed to keep your auto's computer settings when changing batteries. This means you must change the battery before a catastrophic battery failure occurs. You simply plug the device into you trucks Diagnostic port, and plug it into either a 9V battery (good for ~30 minutes with a new 9v battery), or a 110v wall outlet with a 12V wall wart PS. Then remove and replace your truck battery. This keeps power to your Truck systems while you switch out your battery. I bought it on a whim, and thought I'd never need it. Here is a similar device available from Amazon.

I will be connecting m BM Desulfator to the posts ( I will not be disconnecting the battery, just taking off the nut). And yes, it as simple as that. The pigtail is used when you wish to charge the battery through the desulfator. Simply plug your charger into the pigtail, and it will charge and desulfate at the same time. The same is true if you connect to the + battery post and to the nut before the BCM on the negative terminal.. The desulfator goes to work when it sees a charging voltage, be from the alternator or an external charger.

I am attempting to revive a long discharged / discarded sealed AGM battery (made in Jan 2006) through the BM desulfator charger
(I will keep updating the progress by editing this entry.)
Battery is rated at 725 CCA.

Results of Initial health check (It failed while attempting to charge it with another very expensive Schumacher "smart" battery charger. )
000 CCA - 0% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 4.v Resistance = 31 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 1 Poor

UPDATE: 12 Hours from Start
123 CCA - 17% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.31v Resistance = 20 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 1 Poor

UPDATE: 24 Hours from Start
261 CCA - 36% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.35v Resistance = 14 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 2 Fair

UPDATE: 36 Hours from Start
332 CCA - 46% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.35v Resistance = 10 Ohms Battery Minder level = 2 Fair

UPDATE: 48 Hours from Start
375 CCA - 50% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.35v Resistance = 8 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 2 Fair

UPDATE: 60 Hours from Start
430 CCA - 60% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.26v Resistance = 7 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 3 Good

UPDATE: 72 Hours from Start (things seem to be slowing)
444 CCA - 61% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.26v Resistance = 7 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 3 Good

UPDATE: 84 Hours from Start (things seem to be stalled but it was very cold last night) Going to give it 1 more day to see if trend holds.
--------------------------
450 CCA - 61% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.26v Resistance = 7 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 3 Good

UPDATE: 96 Hours from Start (very cold again last night, but a major positive change)
--------------------------
658.6 CCA - 91.5% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.73v Resistance = 5.5 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 4 Excellent ( this battery is now reporting better condition than my 2020 Ranger battery!)

--------------------------
UPDATE: 108 Hours from Start (A reversion back down!)
--------------------------
462.9 CCA - 63.9% of CCA of new Battery Voltage = 13.29v Resistance = 6.9 Ohms BatteryMinder level = 4 Excellent ( this battery is now on par with my 2020 Ranger battery!)

If the battery does not have shorted cells there is a good possibility of bringing it back to 80% or better of its original capacity. It just takes some time. Desulfating uses very little energy. My Battery Minder charger was putting out 8 Amps early on, but now it is simply maintaining and desulfating.... at a cost of ~35 cents / month.

My other smart chargers reported "battery bad" and gave up. My very old dumb chargers would have boiled the water out of the battery with 15 Amps going in.

I know there are several very nice modern chargers on the market, but I have no personal experience with them.

-T

Awesome. Thanks for sharing

 

[got3fords]

Awesome. Thanks for sharing

Going on 4 years with original battery, put the aforementioned desulfator on in March of '23.

 

[SigOris]

Re: Charger
Most any charger will do, but it must apply more current than the parasitic dark current draw. I read the Ford specs on dark current draw, but have forgotten it.

Re: Privacy
Most folks feel the same way you do regarding their privacy. And that is OK. Whatever floats your boat.

I am fiercely privacy minded, and I understand that I am swimming against the current.

They are increasingly embedding trackers in all manner of products!

When friends and family visit I ask that they leave the phones at home or place them in a Faraday pouch well before they arrive at my home, or we simply meet in a public park. Otherwise I go to their homes, and they don't come to mine. I own a smart phone but I can turn it off which really cuts the power to the phone. I can also mechanically pull power from the WiFi, BlueTooth, Camera and Microphone via hardware switches. My cars no longer have cell phones or GPS trackers.

I deal primarily in cash transactions for the same reason.

This came to mind with your faraday cage comment

 

[TJC]

Russian soldiers are using those type of blankets to hide their heat signatures from all those drones flying over them. They seem to work pretty well for them,

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