How To Lubricate Your Driveshaft Slip Joint

ctechbob

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The bolts on my 2020 had so much threadlock on them that I had to heat two of them to get them out. They bound up coming out to the point where I would have snapped the heads right off if I would have continued. I would have a simple propane torch handy just in case.
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Old Red Replacement

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The bolts on my 2020 had so much threadlock on them that I had to heat two of them to get them out. They bound up coming out to the point where I would have snapped the heads right off if I would have continued. I would have a simple propane torch handy just in case.
Trying to get bolts out to remove shaft to lube slip.

How can you heat bolt without heat ruining U Joint?
 

ctechbob

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Just br careful where you direct the heat, shouldn't hurt the joint one bit. If the bolts are tight just heat and check every few moments until they come free, so you use the least amount of heat as possible.

You only need to soften the threadlock, they won't have to be smoking hot to do it.
 

Old Red Replacement

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Just br careful where you direct the heat, shouldn't hurt the joint one bit. If the bolts are tight just heat and check every few moments until they come free, so you use the least amount of heat as possible.

You only need to soften the threadlock, they won't have to be smoking hot to do it.
Thanks for quick response and how to tip’s
 

ctechbob

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Thanks for quick response and how to tip’s

I would also add. Just check to see if they'll come out on their own first. Two of mine came out with no problem, but the other two were seriously stuck in there.

I also just cleaned mine off with a wire brush, put on some new blue Loctite, and reinstalled them. I know Ford says they are a one-time-use bolt, but there's no way those things are TTY. I suspect a lot of the single-use bolts are simply because they need a thread lock and the new bolts come with it installed.
 


Langwilliams

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I haven't tried it but I read on line guys hold a soldering gun tip on the bolt to melt the loctite.
 

ctechbob

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I haven't tried it but I read on line guys hold a soldering gun tip on the bolt to melt the loctite.
It would have to be a pretty beefy soldering gun. Even a big 260 watt Weller is going to take a bit of time to get enough heat into it.
 

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I got them out , heated with propane torch 3/8 ratchet and cheater bar, one 15 mm socket flew off impact yet to be found. Booth clamp was loose from factory so reused and re -crimped .

A little was on blue slip plastic, but glad I did it.

No concrete or level driveway, 77 yr old
under truck in Fl grass and sand.

This years oil change, tire rotation, and this done.
Never ends seal that leaks on 40 yr old floor jack.

two broken 15 mm sockets to show for effort before heat was used.
contact Stanley tools for replacement, Ace Hardware would not honor Craftsman warranty.

IMG_0219.jpeg
 
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Pinecrestjim

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I've had the clunk for some time now and, approaching 60k, called the dealer this afternoon about a fix. I'm awaiting a call back as it was late in the day. Found your thread & video - Well Done and Thank You! I now have more information when I speak with the service advisor.
 

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I would also add. Just check to see if they'll come out on their own first. Two of mine came out with no problem, but the other two were seriously stuck in there.

I also just cleaned mine off with a wire brush, put on some new blue Loctite, and reinstalled them. I know Ford says they are a one-time-use bolt, but there's no way those things are TTY. I suspect a lot of the single-use bolts are simply because they need a thread lock and the new bolts come with it installed.
Bolts stretch when torqued and when you torqued them again you have stretched them even more. That’s why you replace them.
 

ctechbob

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Bolts stretch when torqued and when you torqued them again you have stretched them even more. That’s why you replace them.
I understand that...but the main reason Ford wants you to buy new bolts is the thread lock that comes pre-applied.

Driveshaft bolts have been reused for decades and there's never been a rash of driveshafts falling off. :)
 

Friday yet?

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Ace Hardware would not honor Craftsman warranty.
Sad on so many levels. :frown: I was a Craftsman guy for years. Back when Craftsman meant something. Bugs me that the name means nothing now.
 

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Driveshaft bolts have been reused for decades and there's never been a rash of driveshafts falling off. :)
Tolerances have also been reduced for decades. Just because something worked 100 years ago doesn't mean the same thing will work now, unless you're working on a 100 year old car.
 

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Tolerances have also been reduced for decades. Just because something worked 100 years ago doesn't mean the same thing will work now, unless you're working on a 100 year old car.
That is true. Advanced Manufacturing gets exponentially greater. Engineering always comes down to materials and forces. And well, the material world is growing like crazy.
 

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Bolts stretch when torqued and when you torqued them again you have stretched them even more. That’s why you replace them.
Yes and No! Yes all threaded fasteners stretch when you apply torque, any amount of torque.

The torque specified for most fasteners is around 80% to 90% of the fasteners yield strength and is within the elastic region so when the torque is removed the fastener returns to its original length. The fastener can be torqued over and over until you reach its fatigue limits which is going to be thousands of times or more.

There is a special type of fastener which is called torque to yield. These fasteners are torqued beyond their yield strength and take a permanent set and do not return to there original length when the torque is released. These fasteners are used in applications that require very precise control of the clamping force generated by torquing. You will see these fasteners used on head bolts, rod bolts, main bolts. There is a visual cue that tells you a fastener is torque to yield. They will have a precisely machined area between the end of the threads and the head of the fasteners which is slightly smaller than the root diameter of the threads. This ensures that the permanent stretch occurs in this machined area so that the clamping force is closely controlled. The reason that these fasteners are one time use only is the diameter of the fastener in the machined area is reduced as a result of the yielding of the fastener. That precisely machined diameter is now smaller and if torqued to yield again it won't generate as much clamping force.

The fasteners on the Ranger that either have full length threads or have a shoulder that is the same or larger diameter as the major diameter of the threads are not torque to yield. The ones I have removed have had preapplied dry locktite on the threads. Using preapplied dry locktite is a manufacturing cost savings and the amount applied can be precisely controlled. There are several reasons that Ford says these are one time use;
1. The coefficient of friction between dry locktite and wet loctite is not the same. Wet loctite has more lubricity and for a given torque will result in higher loads possibly yielding a fastener that is not intended to be.
2. There is no direct correlation between dry locktite and wet loctite in regards to its locking properties. They would need to do some level of engineering evaluation to authorize wet loctite and that costs money
3. By telling you to replace the fastener they are covering there butts for all the things that could be done wrong.

Personally I just clean up the threads and put on some wet loctite and call it a day.
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