Help my 'MPG Mission'

[AzScorpion]

Going back to MPG, I also have two questions:

1) Is there an RPM range where the engine is most efficient wrt. gas consumption? I think saying "drive XX mph gives you best result" might be a misnomer, since it doesn't account for hills / load. But steeper the climb, or heavier the load, the RPM would go up for the same speed, so maybe a RPM range would be a better measure?

2) Octane Number. People ask me what gas I use, I say "car says regular", then they are shocked, "regular in a turbo"? "The intertubes" say that octane number is only for knock, and not for energy stored:



so how would better gas make a difference?

thanks for taking time to explain!

I've found that right around 2000-2200 rpm is the sweet spot for this motor and efficiency. As you said though once you start to put a load on it the mpg decrease but if you can maintain a consistent rpm you will get good mileage.

Regular is what's in the manual but the ecoboost does run much better with premium. I noticed a difference once I switched over and running the 91-93 performance tune has actually increased my mpg by 2 as long as I drive it normal.

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[Kemo Sabe]

Thanks for all the replies!

My driving habits are really pretty tame. The highway speed limit in Utah is between 70-80 and everyone seemingly drives 80+ but I honestly keep it around 70. And around town, I'm in no hurry. But, as @DukeCanBuildit brought up, my speedo might indeed be off. I bought this truck already built up, which has pros and cons. I fully realize that lift, tires and weight are the enemies of MPG but I assumed like the other trucks I'd owned, Highway MPG would be better than city - once you get the truck moving it is easier to keep it moving. But that hasn't been the case at all. I can't seem to break 16 mpg on the highway. I shudder to think what it will get when I tow our little Aliner trailer behind it.

I think I will get through these tires and getting more 'normal' tires will help quite a bit. It also has some Westin nerf bars on it, which I'm not a fan of. That's just added weight so I'll pull those off.
[/QUOT

Bone stock 2019.

I have never failed to get below 23.5 mpg, with normal driving. When I drive, observing the vacuum gauge, I always get 24.5-30 mpg. Mpg, looks and local dealer are reasons for purchasing a Ford, although I've been a Chevrolet man since 1961, with my 1955. The vacuum gauge, that's what I call it, is found in the Fuel Economy toggle. Good driving!

 

[Silverfox]

I won’t make any concrete statements regarding Amsoil motor oil but I do use Amsoil 2 stroke oil in my bike and can attest to its quality. I would imagine that quality would extend to their other oils. Still wouldn’t extend oil change intervals though.

 

[Racket]

Ah, more Amsoil propaganda. Really nice PowerPoint deck put together by Amsoil. Probably the one used in their sales meetings. Still no independent verification.

Apparently independent testing is available for those who can pay for it. Can't blame vendor for promoting what they are financially vested in. Lots of data here:

http://ultimatesyntheticoil.com/stop-differential-failure

 

[Big Blue]

Apparently independent testing is available for those who can pay for it. Can't blame vendor for promoting what they are financially vested in. Lots of data here:

http://ultimatesyntheticoil.com/stop-differential-failure

Agreed lots of data there. Still an ad for Amsoil, by Amsoil. I have never disputed the fact that Amsoil is a good product. It is just the fanatical way their sales agents promote the product that turns me and others off.

 

[Fawnbuster]

Raymond says....???

 

[Fawnbuster]

My 2010 f150 with the 3.5 EB got the best mileage staying at or just under 2000 rpm

 

[Groo]

Thanks for all the replies!

My driving habits are really pretty tame. The highway speed limit in Utah is between 70-80 and everyone seemingly drives 80+ but I honestly keep it around 70. And around town, I'm in no hurry. But, as @DukeCanBuildit brought up, my speedo might indeed be off. I bought this truck already built up, which has pros and cons. I fully realize that lift, tires and weight are the enemies of MPG but I assumed like the other trucks I'd owned, Highway MPG would be better than city - once you get the truck moving it is easier to keep it moving. But that hasn't been the case at all. I can't seem to break 16 mpg on the highway. I shudder to think what it will get when I tow our little Aliner trailer behind it.

I think I will get through these tires and getting more 'normal' tires will help quite a bit. It also has some Westin nerf bars on it, which I'm not a fan of. That's just added weight so I'll pull those off.

Groo here
Are you driving in sport????????
Drive the tach,,,,,, try to keep it close to 2000rpm...
once you get to 55ish and on cruse ,, be in Drive or you don't use the top 2 gears AND the trans does not lock up. [torque converter slip]
My stock 2020 FX4 with trailer package goes clear down to 1400/1500 rpm at 55 in D..
The engine lugs bad unless on flat roads.
Sport in town is ok [or at low speeds ] as you don't get into higher gears anyway but above 55 go to D ans use more of the trans...

 

[2020FRL]

"Oh No Mr. Bill ..... Another Oil Thread"

 

[Megawatt]

@Wasatch Wranger

How do you know your only getting 14.5 mpg? If you have bigger tires and the speedo hasn’t been adjusted for the larger diameter wheels what you see for mpg is off. How far off you can find out by two easy ways.

Highway markers are every mile apart. Drive 60 mph and start your watch timer at a mile marker and see if it hits 60 seconds when you get to the next mile marker.

Option 2. If you have a gps use it to see your actual vehicle speed and compare to what your truck reads out. Or simply download commander compass app onto your smart phone. It will display the actual speed your driving. Compare to the truck speedo and see how far off it is.

I doubt your actually getting 14.5 mpg

What size is you aftermarket tires anyway?

 

[Wasatch Wranger]

@Wasatch Wranger

How do you know your only getting 14.5 mpg? If you have bigger tires and the speedo hasn’t been adjusted for the larger diameter wheels what you see for mpg is off. How far off you can find out by two easy ways.

Highway markers are every mile apart. Drive 60 mph and start your watch timer at a mile marker and see if it hits 60 seconds when you get to the next mile marker.

Option 2. If you have a gps use it to see your actual vehicle speed and compare to what your truck reads out. Or simply download commander compass app onto your smart phone. It will display the actual speed your driving. Compare to the truck speedo and see how far off it is.

I doubt your actually getting 14.5 mpg

What size is you aftermarket tires anyway?

I used an app to calculate it. I get an avg of 15.5 If I'm light on the gas pedal and keep it under 70.

My tires are 33 x 12.5's. I'll be switching down to 10.5's when they wear out. My speedo seems spot on actually. The other owner might have recalibrated it. I've driven by those "your speed limit is..." Signs and it's been spot on. I also used my phone gps to try and it is spot on as well.

 

[Racket]

This spring I'm going to change the rear diff fluid to moble 1 syn. The threads on here say it's really dirty after 10-12 k of miles most likely from break in. So far I've probably driven 30 miles total in 4 wheel drive. The posts said the front fluid looked like new so I won't change that until next spring.

I've heard good things about the ford trans fluid but I won't wait 100 K to change it, probably around 50K.

I know they run engineering tests on all the change intervals but I think some of the bean counters get involved in it too. Showing 10K oil changes an 100K trans fluid changes an lifetime coolant they can pitch it as a low maint cost vehicle. European makers show even longer oil change intervals....I don't know if it's a cost saver to them or a green vehicle thing...their oil has different specs an costs a lot more per quart.

I'm still pondering the wisdom of switching to synthetic in the rear diff over treated dino oil. Regardless if you consider Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline or whatever after watching Gale Banks' videos.

You'd think that simple of a choice wouldn't be so difficult.

 

[ccasanova22]

I hate to open up this can of worms again. But you'll improve your mileage buy changing your motor oil, transmission fluid and diff fluids to Amsoil. Plus you should see a power improvement when you do put the pedal down.

On another note regarding mileage. You problem is equivalent to someone's peave I saw on YouTube. Except his was with towing. He was excited that his Ranger could tow 7500 lbs..,...until he did lol. That lil 2.3 can pull it, but his mileage suffered big time. As it does towing with anything. But his Ranger towing mileage was horrible.

I bought into the hype and did my first oil change with Amsoil. Paid a pretty penny to ship to my door and came with an Amsoil sticker. Unfortunately, my MPG has gone down and the engine feels like there’s more resistance. Is this Amsoil stuff thicker than Mobil 1 or other oils? Sure does seem like it…and I did make sure to get the 5W-30.

Call me not convinced, the Amsoil was a waste of money for my first OCI.

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