Battery saver 2nd battery

[airline tech]

Tried. Still test good on there test. Replaced anyway with different brand because I don't want to deal with it later. Kept the battery though.

Did you perform the BMS Reset?

I do not believe the battery was bad, note just after shutting down it's normal to see 12.6 Volts - once all the modules go to sleep - Normal = 12.1 Volts. (Average)
This is what I call - Wake-Up Voltage - this reading is taken from opening the door, plugging in the meter (power-point) - Note it's not powered yet. Then cycle the Ign (On) but do not start.
You should be reading (11.9 to 12.1) volts.
Keep in mind that any reading here - You need to (add) +.1 to +.2 volts to get actual battery voltage. So, 11.9 on the meter will actually be 12.1.

The reason for the BMS Reset is to reset the calibration of the sensor - I suspect since it was not reset for the previous battery - its reporting inaccurate readings to the BCM or the BMS Sensor itself is bad and reporting false data.

So, if I am understanding you - you are shutting down the truck and immediately seeing a - System Off to Save Battery Message and or on next cab entry. (Correct)

You state you are reading 12.2 Volts on the battery - when this message is showing - (Correct)

It should not be showing (The Message) with that battery voltage - the message triggers with a lower voltage.
This is where the BMS Sensor is (Off - Drifted), it's not reading actual voltage and why it at least needs reset and or possibly replaced.
The only true way to see it - is look at the BCM Live Data PIDs, to see what the sensor is reading.
Whatever this sensor reads - it sends the information to the BCM, the BCM is controlling the Load Shed / System Off Message.
This information is also sent to the PCM as part of its control (decision) for generator output and desired Gen Voltage Setpoint - which thus affects how the battery is charged.

The new battery may work (no problem) temporally but I suspect the same issue will return, unless you address the BMS Sensor issue - (The Reason and Cause) of your post.

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[Jmarler]

Yeah. I did the reset on the new one. The new battery is staying at 12.6 when resting. As for the old battery. I remember ford telling me the health has deteriated on my last oil change. Still test good and wasn't having problems at the time. I didn't do the bcm reset on the old one the last few days. I probably should have. But either way I still kept the battery. I can just use it for something else.

I remember last time my battery went bad, I had to jump start everywhere I went. I don't want to do that again


Update: I see what you're saying about the drift. Ill look more into it when I get the chance. I see how to look for it now.

 

[OldHippy]

Yeah, did OP reset the BMS on the first battery change?

What does BMS stand for? Also, is their a section here that explains all the abbreviations used in here? If not, should be. Thnx

 

[Colo_Ranger]

What does BMS stand for? Also, is their a section here that explains all the abbreviations used in here? If not, should be. Thnx

Battery Management System

 

[OldHippy]

Battery Management System

That's what I thought. But wasn't sure. Thnx.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

That's what I thought. But wasn't sure. Thnx.

No problem. Acronyms are the Devil's handiwork.

 

[got3fords]

No problem. Acronyms are the Devil's handiwork.

AATDH

 

[Colo_Ranger]

AATDH

 

[hughesjv]

I replaced my battery 2 years ago with Walmart battery that has 4 year warranty . The last few days my truck keeps going into powersaving mode. On my elo gps app. My volts go down to 12.2 after turning the truck off. So I ordered a charger and it gets here later.
Should I reset the bms after charging or leave it?

Im also considering to get forscan and change the settings. But the adapters are expensive. Would it help since the battery is 2 years old?

So, what I have observed on this forum is that the Rager Lariat is a battery sucker. I charge mine at least twice over the summer and as much as six times over the winter...less driving and the cold. I use a charger that disulfates the battery and my first battery lasted 7 years and actually had I realized the power draw needed for all the top tech stuff, I would not have replaced it then as it was still good. I bought a higher cranking AMP battery for the second one and I do not have to charge as often but it still happens. I guess in addition to the higher sticker, all that luxury has a cost. I do believe some of the other higher end Ranger models have this issue just not to the extent the Lariat does (I just say that from what I have read on this forum). My 2 cents says, learn to charge and enjoy that amazing truck.

 

[Motorpsychology]

PID

What does BMS stand for? Also, is their a section here that explains all the abbreviations used in here? If not, should be. Thnx

A few frequent ones:

• APIM Accessory Protocol Interface Module: the brain behind the dash that controls the screen, streaming, AM/FM, & audio controls, nav, HVAC, yadda yadda
• HVAC Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning
• BMS Battery Maintenance System
• ASS Auto Start-Stop
• e-Locker Electronic locking differential
• OBDII Onboard Diagnostics- second edition: Device that sends real time data to a scan tool or via Bluetooth to an app
• PID Parameter Identifier- readings such as RPM (Revolutions Per Minute), Coolant, Transmission, Oil temps, etc
• EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation system: part of the...
• DPFE Differential Pressure Feedback sensor: which in turn, sends its data to the...
• PCM Power Control Module
• FORD First On Race Day

 

[Motorpsychology]

So, what I have observed on this forum is that the Rager Lariat is a battery sucker. I charge mine at least twice over the summer and as much as six times over the winter...less driving and the cold. I use a charger that disulfates the battery and my first battery lasted 7 years and actually had I realized the power draw needed for all the top tech stuff, I would not have replaced it then as it was still good. I bought a higher cranking AMP battery for the second one and I do not have to charge as often but it still happens. I guess in addition to the higher sticker, all that luxury has a cost. I do believe some of the other higher end Ranger models have this issue just not to the extent the Lariat does (I just say that from what I have read on this forum). My 2 cents says, learn to charge and enjoy that amazing truck.

Automakers, including Ford, are contemplating going to a 48V system to cope with the parasitic draw from all of the devices and modules that have memories that must be kept powered.

 

[OldHippy]

AATDH
[/QUO

PID
A few frequent ones:

• APIM Accessory Protocol Interface Module: the brain behind the dash that controls the screen, streaming, AM/FM, & audio controls, nav, HVAC, yadda yadda
• HVAC Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning
• BMS Battery Maintenance System
• ASS Auto Start-Stop
• e-Locker Electronic locking differential
• OBDII Onboard Diagnostics- second edition: Device that sends real time data to a scan tool or via Bluetooth to an app
• PID Parameter Identifier- readings such as RPM (Revolutions Per Minute), Coolant, Transmission, Oil temps, etc
• EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation system: part of the...
• DPFE Differential Pressure Feedback sensor: which in turn, sends its data to the...
• PCM Power Control Module
• FORD First On Race Day

Damn. I knew all those Except that APIM. THNX for the info, for sure.

 

[TJC]

PID
A few frequent ones:

• FORD - First On Race Day

The only significant one:

• FORD - First On Race Day
• FORD - Found On Roadside Dead
• FORD - Fix Or Repair Daily

Almost 6 years on and I am STILL reworking issues in an attempt to make my 2020 Ranger as reliable as my 2005 Ranger. I don't even think about the 2005 Ranger. Just routine maintenance, get in and go. It is essentially stock from the dealer lot. I have not modified anything on my 2005 Ranger with the exception of installing a cheap Android Radio that allows me to play my music off a USB thumb drive.

In the last 21 years I've only taken it to the dealer twice, both times for recalls on airbag replacements, and each time I have had dash rattles that need to be addressed when I get it back.

And It needs to go back in for replacements again! I'm seriously thinking about removing them entirely.

Anyway...

I blame Ford entirely. The 2005 set my reliability expectations for what I thought I was purchasing in 2020. I seriously misjudged. I figured the Ranger had been in production around the world for 7 years before reentering the US market. Best selling truck in Australia for years... The kinks were worked out.

But Ford couldn't leave well enough alone, and we got the sickly inbred cousin who stays locked in a basement! I'm mentally picturing Steve Martin in Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.

The wife says dump it. Do IT NOW!

After throwing more modification $$ in it than in all my previous auto's combined, I'm still hoping that I can salvage it. The mods that I have made have made the truck far more reliable and drive-able. The last bit of work is targeting the transmission. I plan to have that work completed over winter. I'll know by the end of 2026 if I've been successful, and it has been transformed into keeper.

There is a lot to like about the truck. But poor / cheap design decisions really weakened the product. And I am fast approaching the age where it becomes increasingly difficult to take on major projects like this.

I do know this... It is my last new car... for a lots of reasons. I'm going back to vehicles designed to last and that can be repaired without massive investments in electronic diagnostic/maintenance tools. Most likely a older vehicle with modern engine, transmission, brakes, and suspension. No major computers other than engine management. More mechanical than computer.

Less is More!

 

[Ohwell]

The only significant one:

• FORD - First On Race Day
• FORD - Found On Roadside Dead
• FORD - Fix Or Repair Daily

Almost 6 years on and I am STILL reworking issues in an attempt to make my 2020 Ranger as reliable as my 2005 Ranger. I don't even think about the 2005 Ranger. Just routine maintenance, get in and go. It is essentially stock from the dealer lot. I have not modified anything on my 2005 Ranger with the exception of installing a cheap Android Radio that allows me to play my music off a USB thumb drive.

In the last 21 years I've only taken it to the dealer twice, both times for recalls on airbag replacements, and each time I have had dash rattles that need to be addressed when I get it back.

And It needs to go back in for replacements again! I'm seriously thinking about removing them entirely.

Anyway...

I blame Ford entirely. The 2005 set my reliability expectations for what I thought I was purchasing in 2020. I seriously misjudged. I figured the Ranger had been in production around the world for 7 years before reentering the US market. Best selling truck in Australia for years... The kinks were worked out.

But Ford couldn't leave well enough alone, and we got the sickly inbred cousin who stays locked in a basement! I'm mentally picturing Steve Martin in Dirty Rotten Scoundrels.

The wife says dump it. Do IT NOW!

After throwing more modification $$ in it than in all my previous auto's combined, I'm still hoping that I can salvage it. The mods that I have made have made the truck far more reliable and drive-able. The last bit of work is targeting the transmission. I plan to have that work completed over winter. I'll know by the end of 2026 if I've been successful, and it has been transformed into keeper.

There is a lot to like about the truck. But poor / cheap design decisions really weakened the product. And I am fast approaching the age where it becomes increasingly difficult to take on major projects like this.

I do know this... It is my last new car... for a lots of reasons. I'm going back to vehicles designed to last and that can be repaired without massive investments in electronic diagnostic/maintenance tools. Most likely a older vehicle with modern engine, transmission, brakes, and suspension. No major computers other than engine management. More mechanical than computer.

Less is More!

The question is, how far back in model years do you have to go back to find that vehicle?

 

[Motorpsychology]

The question is, how far back in model years do you have to go back to find that vehicle?

about 2011- last of the 4G Rangers pushrod V6 and a 6-speed auto or 5 speed manual.

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