Anybody planning to lower their 2019 Ranger?

Cape Cruiser

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It needs that panhard though,maybe the left side pivot could be mounted closer to the center of the rear? Also there is NO real estate left for exhaust to pass through to rear of truck.
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It needs that panhard though,maybe the left side pivot could be mounted closer to the center of the rear? Also there is NO real estate left for exhaust to pass through to rear of truck.
That wouldn't work well either. When you make the panhard bar too short, the axle's lateral movement during compression and rebound is increased and/or you'll get more binding with the control arms. Coil spring solid axles are tough to design for, the geometries will never be perfect unfortunately.
 

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That wouldn't work well either. When you make the panhard bar too short, the axle's lateral movement during compression and rebound is increased and/or you'll get more binding with the control arms. Coil spring solid axles are tough to design for, the geometries will never be perfect unfortunately.
I agree with your thought on this and I could understand it on a long travel offroad suspension,but on a street truck suspension there isnt much travel maybe like 2.5 to 3 inches of compression. If panhard is mounted in correct position it kind of stays in its sweet spot and there isnt too much deviation left and right. Many street rods use 8 and 9 inch ford rears with panhard rod mounted to bracket bolted on top of 3rd member.
 

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I agree with your thought on this and I could understand it on a long travel offroad suspension,but on a street truck suspension there isnt much travel maybe like 2.5 to 3 inches of compression. If panhard is mounted in correct position it kind of stays in its sweet spot and there isnt too much deviation left and right. Many street rods use 8 and 9 inch ford rears with panhard rod mounted to bracket bolted on top of 3rd member.
Hi Folks,

If you really want to do it right, a Watt's link is the way to go, but cost and complexity add to the design work required to get it right.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
 

doug910

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I agree with your thought on this and I could understand it on a long travel offroad suspension,but on a street truck suspension there isnt much travel maybe like 2.5 to 3 inches of compression. If panhard is mounted in correct position it kind of stays in its sweet spot and there isnt too much deviation left and right. Many street rods use 8 and 9 inch ford rears with panhard rod mounted to bracket bolted on top of 3rd member.
That's true, the limited range won't affect the lateral movement as much. And as Phil mentioned, Watt's link is definitely the way to go in this case.
 


BoostKing

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I think this rear suspension is very nicely done. I do have a concern with the panhard rod (bronze color) as it changer the rear roll center and without analysis or testing it could have negative impact on handling of the truck.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
I would have to defer to the engineer and team that built the suspension over at Control Freak. I know they modeled everything and ran simulations, and then of course we have road tested the system on this truck. I am not versed enough in suspensions to give you any other information besides more pictures and real world feedback.

That's honestly a sweet setup. I'd like to see the overall geometry of the rear through the whole suspension stroke, but it definitely does seem to be well fabbed. Pics of the front suspension setup would be cool too!
When the truck gets back from SEMA (in transport), I'll get more pictures of the system with some flash to see better. The front just bolts right in, pretty simple. The rear does require some welding.

Also someone mentioned there is no place for the factory exhaust, and you are correct. This will work best with a side exit in front of passenger tire. Otherwise, we would not have been able to accomplish our goal while keeping the factory system. We can however still fit the spare tire if you want.
 

doug910

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Hi Folks,

If you really want to do it right, a Watt's link is the way to go, but cost and complexity add to the design work required to get it right.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
The Ranger Raptor uses a Watt's Link in it's coil sprung rear axle..I wonder how difficult it would be if someone retrofitted those parts onto the NA Ranger.
 

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Hi Folks,

If you really want to do it right, a Watt's link is the way to go, but cost and complexity add to the design work required to get it right.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
Watts link is the deal but requires lots of fab work and the ones I have seen are large and take up a lot of room,handling would be crazy good!
 

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Will this be available at different heights, like a 2/3 or 4/6 or just slammed as pictured ? @BoostKing
 

BoostKing

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Will this be available at different heights, like a 2/3 or 4/6 or just slammed as pictured ? @BoostKing
I may not be understanding you correctly, but this is a coil over conversion system. The front and rear coil over would be adjustable approximately 3-4 inches by changing the coil over with the provided spanner wrenches and lock ring. Of course you could probably fit a longer adjustable coil over into that location and even change spring rates if desired depending on your application. Also, the provided Viking shocks are compression and rebound adjustable to really dial in your preferences.

In the photo, I could probably go about 1/2" lower but I was running into rubbing issues with the offset/tire combo on there and I didnt want to cut out the fender liner. I could also have raised it approximately 3 inches from where it sits.

We removed about 5-6 inches from the front stock 2wd height, and about 6 1/2" out of the rear. This system will only work on 2wd vehicles btw.
 
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gpsdualsport

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Nice pictures @BoostKing. So you have our attention. Of course there are a bunch of questions.
1. How many inches is the front drop?
2. How many inches for the rear drop?
3. Of course we need prices! Front Shocks $?
4. Is the Front control arm change required? Can us cheapskates get by with just the Front Shocks?
5. Rear Shocks $?
6. Price for the new rear link hardware?
7. How much welding is required for the rear link hardware?
8. Did you investigate the possibility keeping the rear leaf springs and just move the axle to the top? Again the cheapskates want to know.
Thanks for posting! Appreciate the work you've done.
 

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This system will only work on 2wd vehicles btw.
:crying:

I'm not looking to slam my 4x4, just bring the front down an inch and the rear to a slight rake (~1"), so 3-4" lower in the rear....so a 1/3 or 1/4 drop. Maybe a 1" shorter spring in the front and a flip kit for the rear (maybe shackles to help level / adjust the rear. :fingerscrossed:
 
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Edwin

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Any update?
833E1DEB-993E-4E17-970E-F0BA4550C1A0.jpeg


E6D496BB-4228-41F0-891B-CF61AE9F49CA.jpeg

Here is Before and After they are still doing some fine tuning. I think there are going to raise the rear 1” and drop the front 1” to get it to sit level or have it slightly higher in the rear. I will post final finished pics soon
 
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Cape Cruiser

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833E1DEB-993E-4E17-970E-F0BA4550C1A0.jpeg


E6D496BB-4228-41F0-891B-CF61AE9F49CA.jpeg

Here is Before and After they are still doing some fine tuning. I think there are going to raise the rear 1” and drop the front 1” to get it to sit level or have it slightly higher in the rear. I will post final finished pics soon
Nice job Edwin ! How was it done?
 
 



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