Aftermarket Headlights - Wiring & Issues (Group Help)

[Big Blue]

If this was a direct message between you and airline tech, it is a private message and cannot be accessed by the general forum membership. So I do not have authorization to view it.

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[airline tech]

Curiosity Question:

Before you start the truck, move the Headlight (Switch) from Auto to Headlamp.
Does the Start-Up Sequence -(Function)?

I agree - and now see, that if the (Morimoto's) already have power (Low Beams) triggered on by the (Low Light) conditions then the headlight (Sequence) cannot be initiated.
Its looking for (Initial) power up.
So, what I need to know is - Will the (Truck) let the start-up sequence happen, without starting the truck by just simply turning on the headlights, or is the (Switched) power source (REQUIRED)

Since, the focus has been on the (DRL) circuit tap, I am trying to isolate down how the headlight triggers the (Start-Up) sequence.
I am thinking that there is a (Internal) relay (Coil Side) that is powered by the (Tapped) source, momentary pulse to the (Headlight) side - The programming for that (Start-Up) begins with (OFF) then (Sequence-ON) Light 1-2-3, then if it sees power (Dark-Low Beams-ON) via switch they remain (ON) if (Daylight) and they do not see power on (Low Beams) the Start-Up sequence triggers the lights (OFF)

So, for the (Start-Up) sequence issue - it's the issue of the programming of the (Low Beam) needing to be (OFF) to begin the sequence.
I am working on (As-Built) programming to see if there is a way to get the start-up sequence to function (always) without the Headlamp switch needing to be (OFF)

 

[jdjeff]

If this was a direct message between you and airline tech, it is a private message and cannot be accessed by the general forum membership. So I do not have authorization to view it.

Ok I get what you're saying. I forgot it was a PM between me and airline tech. I screen shotted as much as I could:

 

[jdjeff]

Curiosity Question:

Before you start the truck, move the Headlight (Switch) from Auto to Headlamp.
Does the Start-Up Sequence -(Function)?

I agree - and now see, that if the (Morimoto's) already have power (Low Beams) triggered on by the (Low Light) conditions then the headlight (Sequence) cannot be initiated.
Its looking for (Initial) power up.
So, what I need to know is - Will the (Truck) let the start-up sequence happen, without starting the truck by just simply turning on the headlights, or is the (Switched) power source (REQUIRED)

Since, the focus has been on the (DRL) circuit tap, I am trying to isolate down how the headlight triggers the (Start-Up) sequence.
I am thinking that there is a (Internal) relay (Coil Side) that is powered by the (Tapped) source, momentary pulse to the (Headlight) side - The programming for that (Start-Up) begins with (OFF) then (Sequence-ON) Light 1-2-3, then if it sees power (Dark-Low Beams-ON) via switch they remain (ON) if (Daylight) and they do not see power on (Low Beams) the Start-Up sequence triggers the lights (OFF)

So, for the (Start-Up) sequence issue - it's the issue of the programming of the (Low Beam) needing to be (OFF) to begin the sequence.
I am working on (As-Built) programming to see if there is a way to get the start-up sequence to function (always) without the Headlamp switch needing to be (OFF)

I will give that a try and check back.

 

[ControlNode]

I can't say for sure on that brand, and I've not fully tested my thoughts on the Anzos. With Anzo the power tap they ask for is constant +12V. If goes to an external box along with a ground and the parking lights. I think they may be reversing the polarity of the parking wiring and that ground between the box and the Anzo light assembly, they could have a rectifier circuit, with a capacitor to power the logic board using the park + & - leads process it as park input only when the current if flowing in the right direction. I thought the aftermarket "startup" sequences all happened when you unlock the truck with the keyfob or maybe door handle on Lariat, that trigger the turn+park power at the same time and then dropping to just parking lights, or turn signals that quickly transitions to parking lights with nothing else lit. If the lights require constant power like the Anzos for the logic board, and you've tapped into ignition switched power that may be the issue. I will note, when I do the remote start, I do not get the startup sequence on my lights, as the turn signals flash, but the park lights do not remain on when the turn signals turn off, they come on only after I press the other button a couple times.

 

[Big Blue]

I can't say for sure on that brand, and I've not fully tested my thoughts on the Anzos. With Anzo the power tap they ask for is constant +12V. If goes to an external box along with a ground and the parking lights. I think they may be reversing the polarity of the parking wiring and that ground between the box and the Anzo light assembly, they could have a rectifier circuit, with a capacitor to power the logic board using the park + & - leads process it as park input only when the current if flowing in the right direction. I thought the aftermarket "startup" sequences all happened when you unlock the truck with the keyfob or maybe door handle on Lariat, that trigger the turn+park power at the same time and then dropping to just parking lights, or turn signals that quickly transitions to parking lights with nothing else lit. If the lights require constant power like the Anzos for the logic board, and you've tapped into ignition switched power that may be the issue. I will note, when I do the remote start, I do not get the startup sequence on my lights, as the turn signals flash, but the park lights do not remain on when the turn signals turn off, they come on only after I press the other button a couple times.

Good to here from someone with a different aftermarket manufacturer. I have not seen the install directions for them. It would be good if someone who has them could post a copy. From their advertising they appear quite different from my OLMs or the Morimoto's. More similar the the OEM light. With an LED projector for low beams and LED reflector for high beam. Only real difference is the LED bars for DRL/parking/turn. Their tapped power harness seems quite different. The Anzos also are advertised as being for OEM HALOGENS ONLY. This make it easier for them to not have to deal with the differences with the OEM LED lights. They only need to handle the light bars for DRL/park/turns, and what ever startup sequence they do.

 

[jdjeff]

Curiosity Question:

Before you start the truck, move the Headlight (Switch) from Auto to Headlamp.
Does the Start-Up Sequence -(Function)?

I agree - and now see, that if the (Morimoto's) already have power (Low Beams) triggered on by the (Low Light) conditions then the headlight (Sequence) cannot be initiated.
Its looking for (Initial) power up.
So, what I need to know is - Will the (Truck) let the start-up sequence happen, without starting the truck by just simply turning on the headlights, or is the (Switched) power source (REQUIRED)

Since, the focus has been on the (DRL) circuit tap, I am trying to isolate down how the headlight triggers the (Start-Up) sequence.
I am thinking that there is a (Internal) relay (Coil Side) that is powered by the (Tapped) source, momentary pulse to the (Headlight) side - The programming for that (Start-Up) begins with (OFF) then (Sequence-ON) Light 1-2-3, then if it sees power (Dark-Low Beams-ON) via switch they remain (ON) if (Daylight) and they do not see power on (Low Beams) the Start-Up sequence triggers the lights (OFF)

So, for the (Start-Up) sequence issue - it's the issue of the programming of the (Low Beam) needing to be (OFF) to begin the sequence.
I am working on (As-Built) programming to see if there is a way to get the start-up sequence to function (always) without the Headlamp switch needing to be (OFF)

I tested this as you requested and a little bit more:

Ok...with no key in the ignition and the switch in auto, I changed the switch from auto to headlights. The lights came on with no startup. When I turn the key to start the truck, there is no change to the lights.

The second thing I tried was to get in the truck with the light switch to off. Upon turning the key to start the truck, I get the startup sequence on both headlights every time. Also, drivers side light bar is off and passenger side is on. Still in the off position only the lightbar remains on the passenger side. If I continue and start the truck, passenger side light bar goes out and the two lightbars come on, with driver's side coming on first for a split second followed by the passenger side. It really get convoluted trying to run back and forth door open door closed I really can't tell what all the interlocks might be. But this behavior was pretty consistent.

After thinking about this for a little bit, it occurred to me that this seems like the same problem in reverse from starting in auto.

 

[airline tech]

I tested this as you requested and a little bit more:

Ok...with no key in the ignition and the switch in auto, I changed the switch from auto to headlights. The lights came on with no startup. When I turn the key to start the truck, there is no change to the lights.

The second thing I tried was to get in the truck with the light switch to off. Upon turning the key to start the truck, I get the startup sequence on both headlights every time. Also, drivers side light bar is off and passenger side is on. Still in the off position only the lightbar remains on the passenger side. If I continue and start the truck, passenger side light bar goes out and the two lightbars come on, with driver's side coming on first for a split second followed by the passenger side. It really get convoluted trying to run back and forth door open door closed I really can't tell what all the interlocks might be. But this behavior was pretty consistent.

After thinking about this for a little bit, it occurred to me that this seems like the same problem in reverse from starting in auto.

What fuse are you tapped into? for the Headlights

 

[jdjeff]

What fuse are you tapped into? for the Headlights

Fuse number 19

 

[Big Blue]

I tested this as you requested and a little bit more:

Ok...with no key in the ignition and the switch in auto, I changed the switch from auto to headlights. The lights came on with no startup. When I turn the key to start the truck, there is no change to the lights.

The second thing I tried was to get in the truck with the light switch to off. Upon turning the key to start the truck, I get the startup sequence on both headlights every time. Also, drivers side light bar is off and passenger side is on. Still in the off position only the lightbar remains on the passenger side. If I continue and start the truck, passenger side light bar goes out and the two lightbars come on, with driver's side coming on first for a split second followed by the passenger side. It really get convoluted trying to run back and forth door open door closed I really can't tell what all the interlocks might be. But this behavior was pretty consistent.

After thinking about this for a little bit, it occurred to me that this seems like the same problem in reverse from starting in auto.

This is really getting to be a frustrating issue, I had calling it a problem. I have come to the conclusion that using remote start is not a good method for troubleshooting this. Because. When using remote start the headlights don't come in to play until you get in and turn the key to on or push the start button. So for me I'm going to need a second person to be in the truck to try different scenarios or go part in front of some stores window. That should drive somebody nuts wondering what going on.

I am also beginning to believe there is a time factor between starts that also figures into this. I do know that it takes some time for the BCM to fully shut down and reset after turning off the truck. And, this is longer than the time for the lights to turn off. How this affects the startup sequence, I don't know.

Iny playing I did have a couple instances of the passenger side not occurring while the driver side did. I also had sometimes where neither had the sequence with the headlights in the on position.

 

[jdjeff]

This is really getting to be a frustrating issue, I had calling it a problem. I have come to the conclusion that using remote start is not a good method for troubleshooting this. Because. When using remote start the headlights don't come in to play until you get in and turn the key to on or push the start button. So for me I'm going to need a second person to be in the truck to try different scenarios or go part in front of some stores window. That should drive somebody nuts wondering what going on.

I am also beginning to believe there is a time factor between starts that also figures into this. I do know that it takes some time for the BCM to fully shut down and reset after turning off the truck. And, this is longer than the time for the lights to turn off. How this affects the startup sequence, I don't know.

Iny playing I did have a couple instances of the passenger side not occurring while the driver side did. I also had sometimes where neither had the sequence with the headlights in the on position.

Speaking of "time factor". There are settings in my dash for lighting off delay (or something like that). I'm assuming you can set the time that lights go off after key removal for the curtesy lights. options are zero seconds to 20 seconds. I haven't tried adjusting that but since we are talking about timing, it makes me wonder even though it might be a long shot since it's seems it's only a power down timing function. But that function is also useful when you want the bed lighting to stay on for a delayed period. So I know how frustrating this is. Hope I'm in the right fuse 19 slot. That would look really bad.

 

[Big Blue]

Speaking of "time factor". There are settings in my dash for lighting off delay (or something like that). I'm assuming you can set the time that lights go off after key removal for the curtesy lights. options are zero seconds to 20 seconds. I haven't tried adjusting that but since we are talking about timing, it makes me wonder even though it might be a long shot since it's seems it's only a power down timing function. But that function is also useful when you want the bed lighting to stay on for a delayed period. So I know how frustrating this is. Hope I'm in the right fuse 19 slot. That would look really bad.

I've always waited for the lights to time out between trys and still get different results. I've seen reports of people have issues and coming back 10-15 minutes later and everything working normal. Frustrating!

 

[jdjeff]

I've always waited for the lights to time out between trys and still get different results. I've seen reports of people have issues and coming back 10-15 minutes later and everything working normal. Frustrating!

This reminds me about something I've learned in school about "race conditions" and the issues they can cause. Where 2 or more electronic components can compete for functionality. Now this was back in the 80's and I would have figured that these design issues would have gotten flushed out by now. But again, I'm grabbing at straws as this drags on and on.

 

[airline tech]

I wish I could pinpoint a definitive solution, but I cannot find one as of yet, on the (Start-Up Sequence Issues)
But I have completed some extensive research.

But some operational notes and your T-Shooting findings:

The important factor here is the BCM has internal micro relays, and these relays are partially controlled via CAN Bus.
The important timing factor = 10 Minutes
So, if you are trying to T-Shoot multiple times withing that 10-Minuute Time Frame, it may be producing the intermittent results of the - Start-Up Sequence

Note: It is rather frustrating that the manuals do not give specific information about this and even the Wiring Diagrams are (Incorrect) for power. (More to Follow)

Some FYI Info: (Since I will be highlighting another (Delay-Realy)
From the Manual:
Note this is also an adjustable setting in the IPC Menu

Headlamp Exit Delay
After you switch the ignition off, you can switch the headlamps on by pulling the direction indicator lever toward you. You will hear a short tone. The headlamps will switch off automatically after three minutes with any door open or 30 seconds after the last door has been closed. You can cancel this feature by pulling the direction indicator toward you again or switching the ignition on.

Headlamp Exit Delay
When the ignition is OFF and the LH multifunction switch is placed in the flash-to-pass position and released, the parking lamps and low beams are illuminated. They remain illuminated until:

• 3 minutes have elapsed with a door open.
• 30 seconds have elapsed after all doors are closed.
• the LH multifunction switch is placed in the flash-to-pass position again.
• the ignition switches to RUN.

Within the 30 second delay and all the doors closed, opening any door results in the 3-minute timer restarting.

Note the above ONLY covers the (Exit Delay-Timer)


Note: This FYI - Since I will be noting this feature (somewhat) as this feature will not be active unless you physically push the power button (SYNC), what I discuss bellow is (Automatic)
Extended Audio Play Feature
This feature allows the audio system to operate with the ignition OFF. When the power button is pressed, the audio system activates and remains active for a period of up to 30 minutes. Audio extended play does not function if the battery load shed is active. Opening a door does not affect the extended audio play feature.




Here is the Run-Start Relay, it closes after the PCM Power Relay - Closes
So, this is showing (Switched Power) Note: Fuse 19 is here
But also note (Fuse 20) in this diagram it shows a fuse (Fuse 20) feeding the Headlamp Switch
This is (INCORRECT) in fact fuse 20 is (not used) and it is (not installed)
Further (Pin #6) of C237 is empty and (Pin #9) of the Headlamp Switch is empty.

So, it was mentioned above (race conditions) you have a tapped power source on (Fuse #19) switched power, that will always power up at (engine start) or (accessory mode)

I did a real-world test here:
As there is another factor, and that is what is actually powered during a (Remote Start) and what is (Not Powered)

I did a remote start - Note: In order to do this, I had to open the hood and then (manually close the hood latch (2-Detents) to trick the truck (that the hood was closed)

I then proceeded to check power on all fuses (accessible) as I did not test the bottom side of the box
BJB (Top Side)
I had power on all fuses except:
Fuse #3 - Rain Sensor - This is powered by the (Run -Accy Relay)

Fuse #34 - Trailer Tow (Back-Up) Lights - Noted that this fuse is after the (Reverse Relay) so it will only be active when in (Reverse)
Fuse #48 (Horn) -Noted that this fuse is after the (Horn Relay) so it will only show power when the Horn is (active)

I then opened the door and checked the BCM fuses:

I had power on all fuses except:
Fuse #23 - DC/AC Invertor & All Door Lock Switches - This is powered from (Accy Delay Relay)


Fuse #4 - Customer Access (For the Trailer Brake) wiring Drivers Footwell)
Fuse 6-7 - 3-Leg Fuse (Not Used)

So noted - that in order for (Accy Relay) to be powered it requires (Ign Key Power)

Note: The (Micro) feeding the (Ground) to the coil side of the (Assy Delay Relay)
This comes from (Ign Switch) Input or known as (ISP-R) Ign Switch Position Run

The Visual factors in (Remote Start) - What's not Powered
Can be mostly seen here:

The (Power Out) Leg is active with a caveat, power is (AVAILABLE) but the (ISP-R) is missing from the HS1 Can Bus, so the modules will not be commanded to power up until it sees (ISP-R) data.
The (Ignition Out) is not as you can visually see the (4WD) selector switch is dead, this also requires (ISP-R) data to provide power (output)

NOTE: The HS1 - Can Bus (Data Line) on the DC/DC Convertor

Also Note: That the (Micro) Relay in the diagram -This is the (Micro) that Grounds the coil side of the Run/Start Relay (That Feeds - Fuse #19)

Now that is covered:

We are still missing some information - Headlight Control
Since I proved that the wiring diagram is wrong, I had to do some digging and to confirm a theory, I tried something.

1. I normally will sit in my truck and listen to the radio / media while waiting for the employee bus at work, so turn truck off and listen until it automatically times out (10-Minute) Timed event.
This will stay active until either 10-Minutes have elapsed, or I open the door.

FROM THE MANUAL:
The APIM is powered at all times and uses the BCM ignition status message to control the on/off mode. The accessory delay feature is controlled by an ignition status message from the BCM.

2. I added - Turning (ON) the Headlights during this to see if they would also trigger off on their own (at this 10-Minute) timed event - YES, they will, even with the Headlamp Switch (ON) the headlights triggered (OFF)
Note: They did not trigger off, when opening the door, but the Radio did.

3. I also turned on (The Headlights) and shut the door and timed how long it takes for them to Auto (Shut Off) - It takes 10-Minutes, and they will automatically turn off.

4. During a (Remote Start) the system is programmed to only (Activate Park Lights) as you will note in a (Remote Start) scenario.
I wanted to see (after step #3) with the switch physically in the Headlamp Position, would the Headlights (Trigger-ON) during a Remote Start ---(NO) they will not.


So, with that information - I can deduce that the BCM has FULL control of the exterior lights, and it is a (2) circuit system.
The BCM has an (Internal) Relay for each circuit and the HS-1 Can Bus is the Primary Control for all of the Relays.

Headlamp Switch:
Since the wiring diagram is wrong about Fuse #20 feeding the Headlamp Switch the power is provided on all legs to the switch and switch position determines what circuit is grounded to complete the circuit.
I am guessing that this is a 5-Volt Circuit (for each position) and the BCM itself is providing the Power (No Fuses) - Power to the BCM is coming from the 125-Amp BCM Fuse.

So, if you visualize this as a (Relay) and the BCM is the Relay Coil, and the Headlamp Switch Position is providing the Ground for each separate circuit

Now we factor in the (Supply) side of the power, which is sent down another circuit to each light.
So, when the (Coil Side) control receives the ground from the switch, it allows power output to the lights.

From the Manual:
The BCM monitors the headlamp switch position by sending voltage signals on multiple circuits to the headlamp switch. There is one circuit for each headlamp switch position. At any given time, one of the signal circuits is switched to ground to indicate the headlamp switch position.


So, the important info so far:
1. In a Remote Start - Condition - Only the Park Lamp Circuit is Active
2. Once the (Lighting Circuit) has been triggered there is a (Micro-Relay) inside the BCM that remains (Power Available) for 10-Minutes, so when T-Shooting in succession this would explain why you are not getting the (Start-Up) sequence to trigger all the time (In AUTO)

So, if we just focus on a normal start (Daylight)
All should work normally - single start and the (start-up) sequence should trigger.
If it does (NOT) then the (Low Beam) circuit is being triggered (pulsed) powered briefly by the BCM and the (Tapped) source wont (trigger the start-up sequence) due to the fact that the circuit has already been powered, the low beams will be off but the circuit was triggered first by the BCM and then sensed (daylight) I need to be off not on.

Note: Turning off the (IPC) selection is for DRL's - Note: In Park when you are starting the truck this should not factor into the (Start-Up) sequence.
More on this (Below)

So, now factor in (Nighttime) and the (Start-Up) Sequence

NOTE: Normal DRL Operation will only be (LOW BEAMS) and all other lighting will be (OFF) including Park Lights, and this will only be (when out of Park - Gear Position)
So, a Daytime start there should be (Zero Lights) illuminated in Park

When Forscan changes are made, this moves from (LOW BEAMS) to (Park Lamp) circuit which is a BI-LED circuit (Bright = DRL) and is the only light illuminated

When the (Headlights) are triggered (ON) from the AutoLamp Circuit then the Low Beams are commanded to (Full Power) from their (50%) Power and the Park Lamps trigger (ON)
Actually, the DRL is obtained by (PWM) modulating the (Power - On/Off) to obtain a lower light output - I tested this with my Lab-Scope, as I watched the pulse.
So, it does not really drop power, it just adjusts the amount of time the power is applied

LED - Light strip power is more stable, but with a LED light assembly, the LED DRL will dim, and the Low Beams will trigger on when Autolamps triggers them (ON)


Autolamps
The BCM monitors the light sensor. The light sensor input to the BCM varies with the ambient light conditions.
The BCM monitors the headlamp switch circuits to indicate the headlamp switch position.
When the BCM receives a headlamp switch status indicating a request for the autolamps, and the ambient lighting is low enough, the BCM illuminates the exterior parking and low beam lamps.

Light Sensor
The BCM sends a voltage signal to the light sensor. The light sensor provides resistance between the voltage signal and ground. The resistance varies depending on the amount of ambient light detected by the light sensor. The brighter the ambient light, the lower the resistance. By varying the resistance, the BCM can determine the amount of ambient light.


So, you can see below that the (Autolamp) control is a (Micro-Relay) and if we are going down the correct path (in assuming) that the Low Beam circuit is being powered up before the (Start-Up) Sequence or (Left Headlight) completes the sequence and the (Right Headlight) does not, tells me that the issue is in (The Race - As Mentioned in a Previous Post)

Being that (1) The Left & Right (Lighting) Outputs are on 2 separate fuses.
So, with the Headlamp Switch Position (In-Auto) or any position (it does not matter)
That switch position will send power (down 2 circuit paths) one for the Left Headlamp and one for the Right Headlamp.
As far as (Circuit) Run - The Left Headlamp will have the shortest run and will power faster than the right. (Milliseconds Here)
But that (short) time, period plays into account when you factor in (Tapped Power) source.
The BCM is winning the RACE.

Even the (Tapped) power source - the closest headlight to (Fuse #19) is the Left Headlight.

Plus, you have to take into account that the (HS1) Can Bus, has to transmit the data of (Ign-Switch) Position ISP-R this is from the BCM and the internal Micro Controller.
You also have the (Accy Relay) that I have proven ties into the Headlights
So this may be why you get intermittent outcomes for the (Start-Up) sequence, sometimes the CAN BUS can be fast or slow (just like any computer data transfer)

With That Information and thinking about As-Built Data for the (Ambient Light) sensor
BCM: 726-26-01
Factory OE: - 0100-0003-0058 ---xxx1-xxxx-xxxx
0=Slow (15-Seconds)
1= Fast (2-Seconds)
This is the only setting I can find for (Timing) of the (Auto-Lamps) and it states Sensor Type, so unsure if this is a (part-number) thing as for (Auto Climate) Control this Ambient Light Sensor is also the (Sun load) Sensor so it has double duty.
With the (Manual) climate system - it only functions as the (Ambient Light Sensor)

So, I don't really see how this would affect a (Start-Up) sequence at engine start, as 15-seconds is a long time. I think this is more for (driving in daylight) and (driving into a tunnel) how long (time period) does it take for the sensor to react and trigger the headlamps on, vs 2 seconds of driving under a dark cloud (cloud shades) the sensor and triggers the headlights on (Briefly) and then back off.


So that leaves us with the True Unanswered Question:
What is the Actual Circuit that the Morimoto's use to Tap Power.
We are assuming (PIN #6) DRL Power, and what (INTERNALLY) is happening to (TRIGGER) the Start-Up Sequence.

As the BCM (is Applying power the Low Beam & Parking Light when it is dark enough for the headlights to be on.
So, the (Start-Up) sequence not working may be not only from the Low Beams already being on it can also be from the Park Lights already being commanded on.
So, the logic in the Morimoto's is that that the (Start-Up) sequence already happened.

I have more to follow, but I still think that removing the (Fused Tapped) source and moving it to (Wire-Tapped) source may cure the issue.

 

[Big Blue]

OK, I just verified a theory I had. I went out and pulled the tapped power from fuse #19 and switch in auto ignition off, connected it to the positive battery post. I got a startup sequence both sides, headlights out after sequence and DRLs on bright. So the tapped power powers the headlight sequence and the DRLs on bright.

Did same test, with switch in park ignition off, DRLs come on in dim (parking mode). Got same results, when connecting tapped lead to battery, except, DRLs stayed on dim (parking mode).

It appears that when there is power on the parking wire it keeps the DRLs in the dim parking mode. This would make sense, as anytime the lights are on the parking lights are also. Also, because I have my parking lights on as part of my DRL setting, when I take my truck out of park my DRLs dim down.

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