10,000 Oil change interval.

[Tracy Bowman]

my dad changed oil spring and fall, regardless of distance.
he did 40000km a year.
he never had a failed engine, but im sure he had many that were sick.

i dont follow what he learned me. theres been many advancements in that 40-50yr period.

i trust people who are educated. period.
personal experiences arent education.

Of course they are.

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[VAMike]

kind of a stretch making this comparison. yes? no?

we are daily drivers.
not racers

It's hard to pretend to be an astronaut or wizard or deep sea ninja or most childhood fantasies, but race car driver--that's within reach of anyone with an internal combustion engine.

 

[JohnnyO]

It's hard to pretend to be an astronaut or wizard or deep sea ninja or most childhood fantasies, but race car driver--that's within reach of anyone with an internal combustion engine.

I drove a detuned NASCAR race car at the Rusty Wallace Race Experience. Fun times but once they lock your helmet onto the HANS Device you can't see jack except straight ahead. Gave me new appreciation for how good real race drivers are.

 

[Floyd]

my most common fantasy is to be the President of the hair club for men.
odd...yes it is.
but so is changing oil prematurely just because.

You may never make your first fantasy, but you could wear a toupee if you think it would help get people to fulfil your less common fantasy which must be to stop them from changing their oil without your permission.

 

[Floyd]

I drove a detuned NASCAR race car at the Rusty Wallace Race Experience. Fun times but once they lock your helmet onto the HANS Device you can't see jack except straight ahead. Gave me new appreciation for how good real race drivers are.

So right.... that helmet is a real Handicap at first..(not a real "Handy cap" to wear)

 

[THLONE]

So, you dont think that the Ford engineers know what the hell they are talking about? Then, why did you buy a Ford?

 

[Floyd]

So, you dont think that the Ford engineers know what the hell they are talking about? Then, why did you buy a Ford?

Does that refer to oil change intervals or catchcans?
If its oil change intervals go back and read your owner's manual about the various service life related to various service.
Mine comes down to a recommended 5000 miles, since I tow , make short trips, and have only driven 8500miles per year.
But to answer the question... Engineers, just like doctors,often give good advice, but that's what it is, (advice)

The decision and the consequences still fall on the shoulders of the owner/patient.
For those who don't want to make their own decision, the engineer/doctor still gives pretty good advice.

 

[Floyd]

this might be sufficient in that quest....

looking good at a great price, and it sure instills confidence!

 

[harringtondav]

I dug this up while doing some research on direct fuel injection (GDI) after reading about intake valve coking in a post about 2.3 reliability. ....good read for this post and that one.

Article's punch line is change your oil sooner than later. And use the spec oil.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/20...e-direct-injection-issues-facts-fictions-gdi/

 

[Czaplewskin]

The day I purchased my new Lariat w/ towing package, we drove about 75 miles, rented a camper (about 3,500 lbs), & towed it to the campsite (about 15 miles, flat & 55 MPH). The dealer learned about this from my kids & told me they didn't recommend it. When they listened to the details, they said I should be "ok"- & we were just fine.

I didn't get my 1st oil change until 9,200 + miles per my app- & I was terrified that I had ruined my new engine by going too long; the dealer recommended that I come in around 25-50% oil life remaining (approx 5-7,500 miles) just to be safe, & also since they are free with my Ford points.

Are you guys running semi-synthetic or full synthetic? The dealer said it was my choice, but I prefer to do what the manufacturer recommends...

 

[2020FRL]

Oil Change Intervals are as subjective as "What oil should I use".

I put about 6-7K on my cage a year and about 4-5k a year on my trike. Having said that, I've already put ~ 6k on the Ranger. Face it, It's just fun to drive ... LOL.

Anyway, the factors that tell me when I change the oil are:

Type of miles driven, highway, around town, whatever.
Towing or not towing.
On road, off road ... I don't do any hard core off road, but I do some dirt roads.

Okay .. those are pretty common factors most people will factor into their decision. One a lot of folks might not look at is temp changes. Here in western Colorado, we get cold winters (not much below 0), but we get lots of temp variance during the day. Might be 15* at night and get up to 40-50* during the day in the spring and fall.

Temp changes like that cause condensation, especially if you are driving short trips. I know this because on my trike I have a remote oil breather. I check it twice a year. At the end of summer, there is almost nothing in the can, In the spring when I check it, I always get maybe a quarter teaspoon of clear water in it.

So, where am I heading with this? Regardless of miles, I always change oil in all my vehicles in the spring to remove condensation built up over the winter. Works out pretty well, The truck and trike will get oil changes once a year in the spring at a minimum. If I put "hard" miles on either or more miles than I normally do, they will get them more often.

Last year I hit 5k on the trike in September. That's the benchmark for me changing oil for normal miles. Shortly after that, my mother got sick and I didn't ride the trike much over the winter since I was taking care of her. I did a second oil change early April this year because of the "Spring" Alan requirement. There was less than 1k miles on the trike's oil. Yes, the oil catch can had water in it. Did I waste $50 and an hour of my time ... maybe ... but ... I recovered untold $$$$ worth of peace of mind knowing I'm covered. And before anyone asks, I have a "Forever" cleanable oil filter and air filter on my trike. There is about 80k miles of both from the last three Harleys and they still look and perform like new. I have two sets of the filter cores and soak one after an oil/air filter clean and let it dry in a "clean" box (Woden box I made with high efficiency filter) while I use the other set. Works well. I plan to look for a similar "setup" for the Ranger, but, may just stick with the Ford ones.

I've never understood in the Harley world why people will spend $20k-50K for a new bike/trike and then insist that it runs fine on regular fuel even though it's a high compression engine and Harley recommends High Test. The additional cost is about $1 per fill. Just doesn't make sense to me. They then justify in their minds doing oil changes (and this 5k service for Harley includes way more than oil changes) at only 5k miles, even though it's been 3-4 years. Just doesn't make sense to me.

I'm fairly certain you can find folks just like this in the Ranger community, but, I just haven't looked too close.

In summary, like I used to say in the Navy, "Common sense IS Authorized!". Change your oil when it makes sense to. Determine what factors you deem important to oil life and do "service" when it makes sense. I think the 10K Ford recommends is a "Perfect Storm" type number. IE, consistent highway miles across the middle of the country with no wind storms and no towing ... LOL. I also suspect if you only change your oil at 10K, regardless of what else is going on ... you will be sorry.

Speaking of Sorry ... Sorry for the rant ... getting off the soap box now ...

 

[Leftcoast]

Oil Change Intervals are as subjective as "What oil should I use".

I put about 6-7K on my cage a year and about 4-5k a year on my trike. Having said that, I've already put ~ 6k on the Ranger. Face it, It's just fun to drive ... LOL.

Anyway, the factors that tell me when I change the oil are:

Type of miles driven, highway, around town, whatever.
Towing or not towing.
On road, off road ... I don't do any hard core off road, but I do some dirt roads.

Okay .. those are pretty common factors most people will factor into their decision. One a lot of folks might not look at is temp changes. Here in western Colorado, we get cold winters (not much below 0), but we get lots of temp variance during the day. Might be 15* at night and get up to 40-50* during the day in the spring and fall.

Temp changes like that cause condensation, especially if you are driving short trips. I know this because on my trike I have a remote oil breather. I check it twice a year. At the end of summer, there is almost nothing in the can, In the spring when I check it, I always get maybe a quarter teaspoon of clear water in it.

So, where am I heading with this? Regardless of miles, I always change oil in all my vehicles in the spring to remove condensation built up over the winter. Works out pretty well, The truck and trike will get oil changes once a year in the spring at a minimum. If I put "hard" miles on either or more miles than I normally do, they will get them more often.

Last year I hit 5k on the trike in September. That's the benchmark for me changing oil for normal miles. Shortly after that, my mother got sick and I didn't ride the trike much over the winter since I was taking care of her. I did a second oil change early April this year because of the "Spring" Alan requirement. There was less than 1k miles on the trike's oil. Yes, the oil catch can had water in it. Did I waste $50 and an hour of my time ... maybe ... but ... I recovered untold $$$$ worth of peace of mind knowing I'm covered. And before anyone asks, I have a "Forever" cleanable oil filter and air filter on my trike. There is about 80k miles of both from the last three Harleys and they still look and perform like new. I have two sets of the filter cores and soak one after an oil/air filter clean and let it dry in a "clean" box (Woden box I made with high efficiency filter) while I use the other set. Works well. I plan to look for a similar "setup" for the Ranger, but, may just stick with the Ford ones.

I've never understood in the Harley world why people will spend $20k-50K for a new bike/trike and then insist that it runs fine on regular fuel even though it's a high compression engine and Harley recommends High Test. The additional cost is about $1 per fill. Just doesn't make sense to me. They then justify in their minds doing oil changes (and this 5k service for Harley includes way more than oil changes) at only 5k miles, even though it's been 3-4 years. Just doesn't make sense to me.

I'm fairly certain you can find folks just like this in the Ranger community, but, I just haven't looked too close.

In summary, like I used to say in the Navy, "Common sense IS Authorized!". Change your oil when it makes sense to. Determine what factors you deem important to oil life and do "service" when it makes sense. I think the 10K Ford recommends is a "Perfect Storm" type number. IE, consistent highway miles across the middle of the country with no wind storms and no towing ... LOL. I also suspect if you only change your oil at 10K, regardless of what else is going on ... you will be sorry.

Speaking of Sorry ... Sorry for the rant ... getting off the soap box now ...

You do know that the truck monitors how your are driving and adjusts the oil life monitor, right? Look up "Intelligent oil-life Monitor." It knows when you've been towing. It knows when you've been working the motor. It knows when it isn't warming up on a short trip. I'm not sure if it knows if you've been constantly driving on dirt. Most people seem to think they are over working their truck. Most aren't.

 

[harringtondav]

I've seen the dirt/dust environment comments
Can I ask a simple question?

Hows the dirt/dust getting into my oil system?

The link I posted above, and below touches on it. ....seems related to past Chevy PCV systems, but may be a factor. It's a long read, so crack a barley pop or sody pop.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/20...e-direct-injection-issues-facts-fictions-gdi/

 

[harringtondav]

I use the Ford spec viscosity, full syn Mobil 1 or Pennzoil. I believe syns are far superior to dyno oils. ....years ago I researched ASTM three ball wear test data. ....that made me a believer.

Same as above, I change all the sumps I own in the spring. With his and hers vehicles neither accumulates more than 7K miles/yr. .....well within the life of a good syn oil.

 

[Floyd]

I've seen the dirt/dust environment comments
Can I ask a simple question?

Hows the dirt/dust getting into my oil system?

First a little history lesson...
6 or seven decades ago the world was still covered with many dirt and gravel roads.
At that time most vehicles used oil bath type air cleaners to reduce the amount of dirt which got past the air cleaner and into the intake stream.
When paved roads became the norm, it was deemed no longer necessary to use and service oil bath filters and vehicles began to use simple paper filters which worked well enough under the new and much cleaner environment.
No intake system can be perfectly sealed from contamination without sacrificing efficiency and spending more than the benefit would provide.
Thus filters are rated by the size of the particles of dirt which they will allow through.

In addition to ambient dirt... combustion by products and condensation contribute to dirty oil.
The water alone can dissolve contaminants and compound the threat both physically and chemically. Water can also combine with oil to form an emulsion which can interfere with proper lubrication and accelerate wear.

Of course you knew all of this, but I assume that you figure that these problems are sufficiently mitigated by modern systems, modern oils, and with present extended oil change intervals...Right?

In the field I seldom worked with guys who felt they had to wash their hands before lunch , simply a good wipe on a "cleanish" rag was sufficient. ( probably not acceptable at the home dinner table)

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