Maximizing Battery Life

[airline tech]

Really valuable data. Thank you!

I surmise that you used a flat blade screwdriver to lock the hood latch.

I am also assuming that you used a clamp ammeter on the negative battery terminal. Was the meter undisturbed for the entire test? I have found that readings can vary depending on clamp placement.

I'm going to start my analysis just after I complete my rear seat delete work. I'm going to pull the same test on both my 2005 and 2020 Rangers. I will follow the same time and test parameters that you described. The results will be interesting.

I am surprised by how low the draw dropped.

Yes - Flat Blade to push the hood latch (switch) down

Yes - Neg Cable, I even swapped it over to the Pos (Alt) Feed a few times to see if the reading matched.

For each test result - as the clamp timed out between tests- I pulled (zeroed) and reinstalled.

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[airline tech]

You should change your mA reading units to Amps. For example, .005 Amps = 5 mA.

Yes - but wanted to make it simple with the (meter-pics) for anyone unfamiliar with what a mA reading looks like on a meter.
In my head I see 5mA, no matter how its written. 0.005 vs 5mA

 

[TJC]

Thanks for the additional details. I'll print out your table, build a spreadsheet with the same parameters and track the results. I've got a few days work ahead of me before I can begin.
I'm 25 days since my disc replacement surgery and feel 98% normal. A few pinches and aches here and there, but my shoulders, arms, and hands / fingers are back to normal now. Nothing short of amazing! Neck movement is better than before, smooth!

Ready to begin working!

 

[RangerBill]

Yes - but wanted to make it simple with the (meter-pics) for anyone unfamiliar with what a mA reading looks like on a meter.
In my head I see 5mA, no matter how its written. 0.005 vs 5mA

These are not the same value. Just to clarify:

.005 mA is 5 thousandths of a milliamp or .000005 amps. I am sure that you didn't get this reading.

.005 Amps is 5 milliamps.

 

[TJC]

You should change your mA reading units to Amps. For example, .005 Amps = 5 mA.

I agree, but I know what he meant.

 

[airline tech]

Ok - I updated the Results, including the Ford Pass (TCU) Check

 

[TJC]

So 3.2 amps for 8-9 minutes. Now the questions:

1) What happens if it the TCU doesn't connect due to low/no signal. Retry intervals?
2) How long do auto updates take?
3) How often does the TCU call home?
4) Can or does Ford initiate connection? If so how often?

That's a good start for now. I suspect you don't know all those answers.

 

[airline tech]

So 3.2 amps for 8-9 minutes. Now the questions:

1) What happens if it the TCU doesn't connect due to low/no signal. Retry intervals?
2) How long do auto updates take?
3) How often does the TCU call home?
4) Can or does Ford initiate connection? If so how often?

That's a good start for now. I suspect you don't know all those answers.

I know that (history) there was a post for (Click/Tone) every 45-Seconds awhile back and I suspected it to be (TCU) Related - No follow up from poster for that one. So IDK what the final fix was.

I know that the (Just be near the truck and the Wastegate Actuator Cycle) is the TCU Checking in.
It tends to do it more if you have the phone in close proximity to the truck, sometimes 2 times in an hour.
If only the (FOB) and phone is in the house - it does not seam to do it.
Its only sporadic - no specific timing or event that triggers it that I know of.

I turned off the Auto-Updates, I prefer to install them myself.

I know as far as Ford Pass and the location update - its immediate as I can drive and shut off the truck and then check Ford Pass, location updates to my current location.

As far as Ford Check Ins - I do not know how often it checks in if its all alone and away from phone & fob.

 

[TJC]

I put together a quick ref of my test results for - Parasitic Draw as a ref to normal
16.0 Hour (Test Window)
Did not note - while out in the garage any TCU (Ford Pass Check-Ins)
I am curious (when it occurs) how much of a draw it is and how long does it last?
Depending on how many times it does it through the (At Rest - Period) can have a change in the results.

I may set-up again for a quick test - Force (Ford Pass) Refresh and note Before and After as well as the timeline of the draw,

But here is my reference results:

Quick question,,, Does the Hood latch do anything other than light a warning bulb (if it does that!) ? I'd never given much thought to about the latch, I just thought it latched the hood.,,,

 

[airline tech]

Quick question,,, Does the Hood latch do anything other than light a warning bulb (if it does that!) ? I'd never given much thought to about the latch, I just thought it latched the hood.,,,

Yes its more than just a hood latch, as its on the Door Ajar circuit, which also means its a monitored circuit for (PATS) and the entry alarm along with all doors.
It also ties into a (Safety Feature) as remote start is disabled if the hood is opened.

I guess a good (Test) would be a curiosity question - How much of a draw (if any) does the hood ajar switch create after all modules are in sleep mode and I would have to revisit to be 100% positive but the alarm will not arm if the hood is open - (Mislock) feedback horn

The curiosity of this draw is (since we do not have a hood light) and owners who leave the hood open for an extended period of time - Is the hood ajar switch drawing power (constant) or will the BCM drop it off when its goes to sleep.
Example (Battery Maintainer / charger) shuts off and then battery is under its own charge, the remaining time period the hood is opened, how much of a draw (if any) is being pulled? vs hood closed.

I see I need to do another test

 

[airline tech]

A

Yes its more than just a hood latch, as its on the Door Ajar circuit, which also means its a monitored circuit for (PATS) and the entry alarm along with all doors.
It also ties into a (Safety Feature) as remote start is disabled if the hood is opened.

I guess a good (Test) would be a curiosity question - How much of a draw (if any) does the hood ajar switch create after all modules are in sleep mode and I would have to revisit to be 100% positive but the alarm will not arm if the hood is open - (Mislock) feedback horn

The curiosity of this draw is (since we do not have a hood light) and owners who leave the hood open for an extended period of time - Is the hood ajar switch drawing power (constant) or will the BCM drop it off when its goes to sleep.
Example (Battery Maintainer / charger) shuts off and then battery is under its own charge, the remaining time period the hood is opened, how much of a draw (if any) is being pulled? vs hood closed.

I see I need to do another test

Answer to the question:

Test completed at the 3.0 hour mark after shutdown
Hood Open & Doors Locked - Alarm not Armed (due to the hood ajar switch (opened)
Hood Ajar Switch is a (NC-Switch) ground is removed when switch opens and generates the ajar message to the BCM & IPC.

Draw With Hood Open (thus the switch open) = 0.016 Amps
Closed Switch (2-Detents) initial draw from the parking lights flashing (feedback) as the doors were locked and now the alarm (Armed)
After a few minutes amp draw settled and now = 0.008 Amps

So with the Hood Opened and performing maintenance there is a extra draw of 8mA from the hood ajar switch or Answer (Daily Double - What is 8mA) double of what it would normally be with the hood closed.

 

[IdahoRanger]

Weird battery behavior.

So I haven't driven the truck for over a week, battery is about 1 year old, so tested battery. Should have taken a picture but didn't, showed charge of 7% and health of 71% IR was 4.23. Hooked up Noco 5 and in about d minutes showed fully charged with green light. Re-tested battery and was 100% healthy and 100% charged. Can that really happen so quickly?

 

[TJC]

How soon after the charge did you retest the battery? Best to wait 8 hours and retest, or temporarily turn on headlights to burn off the surface charge. Keep the headlight on time the same as well.

If you check it immediately after the charge you'll get a false high reading.

And whatever time delay that you do decide to test after charging the battery, keep the time delay consistent for accurate results.

1st test - Baseline
2nd test - Measures Delta
3rd test - Measure Delta

What is important is that you establish a definable repeatable process. Once you do that you will be able to discern any change with some degree of confidence in the accuracy of your results.

 

[dtech]

How soon after the charge did you retest the battery? Best to wait 8 hours and retest, or temporarily turn on headlights to burn off the surface charge. Keep the headlight on time the same as well.

If you check it immediately after the charge you'll get a false high reading.

And whatever time delay that you do decide to test after charging the battery, keep the time delay consistent for accurate results.

1st test - Baseline
2nd test - Measures Delta
3rd test - Measure Delta

What is important is that you establish a definable repeatable process. Once you do that you will be able to discern any change with some degree of confidence in the accuracy of your results.

yes the surface charge can be deceptive but also as to your advice for putting a headlight on - might consider doing that before taking the initial test as a brief current draw will likley lower the internal resistance and you'll get a more accurate reading after the battery has sat for a week - the old carbon pile testers were more accurate in that respect as they create a large flow of current.

 

[TJC]

yes the surface charge can be deceptive but also as to your advice for putting a headlight on - might consider doing that before taking the initial test as a brief current draw will likley lower the internal resistance and you'll get a more accurate reading after the battery has sat for a week - the old carbon pile testers were more accurate in that respect as they create a large flow of current.

I agree...

Yep, they are, but they put a lot of load / stress on a battery. And if your battery is marginal, that load test might finish off the battery, esp if you leave it loaded for too long.

I own one (or two), but I am careful about when to use it.

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