2020 Ranger XLT Transmission issues - dealer says it shifts and drives fine?

[JimG_AZ]

Agreed.
But I'm danged glad to be getting it done before warranty is out. And before maybe things got so bad I felt it necessary to trade out of the Ranger. I'd really like it to be my last truck because it's paid for and because it's a really nice truck overall.

I understand,. I hope the repair goes well. I actually put the Ford ESP from Granger on mine before the 3/36 warranty ran out.

Jim

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[JimG_AZ]

I am now working with my local Ford dealer on these issues. And I added a picture of my blue beauty!

The previous dealer said it (my daughter's '13 Focus) will need a new cluth although it's "not too bad". Damn thing will give you whiplash. Anyway, they wanted $3,000 for a clutch job so I said no thanks.

I will put my truck back in next week at the local dealer and we will see how it goes. It's a large chain dealer so I'm not holding my breath.

I'm also going to have them look at/replace the DPFE sensor assembly. I got to reading that when the circuitry gets water in it the result can be the bucking between 30 and 50Mph that I've dealt with. It's also supposed to be less boggy and easier to get it to shift and accelerate out of low gear. Should be the following parts:

• LB5Z-9J433-B - DPFE Sensor assembly
• LB5Z-9E469-B - Inlet tube
• LB5Z-9E464-B - Gasket
• LB5Z-8527-A - Seal
• LB5Z-9E464-C - Gasket

So hoping for a better outcome this time around. I've got my fingers, toes, eyes, and cheeks crossed, lol. Don't ask how to cross your cheeks!

The DPFE sensor is easy to change it you want to do it yourself. Just a little tight but not difficult.

Jim

 

[chriskm1968]

I had these issues with transmission as well and gave up on dealerships and came to you guys on here and haven't been steered wrong yet!
I remember when Ford was a better company!

 

[jrmaloney1979]

I guess I'm Naive, but I don't understand why the dealer is resisting. As far as I know, warranty work pays as well as any work. ...maybe the dealer is short on qualified techs that could handle this.
Second opinion at another dealer as suggested might help.
If necessary, offer to pay for the diagnosis above. Normally the charge is dropped if the test reveals a valid failure.

I hope you're right! I'm paying a $330 diagnostic fee/inspection hoping they find a fixable problem.

 

[waynejaynes81]

Hi all,

I was finally able to get my truck into my local (chain) Ford dealer. After having it for a week they called me on Friday and said they were able to get it to misbehave a little and found the EGR valve was bad and are replacing it under warranty. I wasn't where I could have a long conversation with them but I'm going to call back and ask if they actually did the pressure test in TSB 25-2134. I have a feeling they're wanting to just fix a small thing to get me out the door. When I dropped off the truck and explained what was going on and the TSB he acted like I was an idiot. Either that or he just didn't care. Maybe a mix. Which is why I avoided this dealer in the first place but we'll see.

 

[RedlandRanger]

Hi all,

I was finally able to get my truck into my local (chain) Ford dealer. After having it for a week they called me on Friday and said they were able to get it to misbehave a little and found the EGR valve was bad and are replacing it under warranty. I wasn't where I could have a long conversation with them but I'm going to call back and ask if they actually did the pressure test in TSB 25-2134. I have a feeling they're wanting to just fix a small thing to get me out the door. When I dropped off the truck and explained what was going on and the TSB he acted like I was an idiot. Either that or he just didn't care. Maybe a mix. Which is why I avoided this dealer in the first place but we'll see.

A failing DPFE sensor can cause what appear to be shifting issues, so it is possible that is the root problem. It will be interesting to hear what you feel once you get your truck back.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

Hi all,

I was finally able to get my truck into my local (chain) Ford dealer. After having it for a week they called me on Friday and said they were able to get it to misbehave a little and found the EGR valve was bad and are replacing it under warranty. I wasn't where I could have a long conversation with them but I'm going to call back and ask if they actually did the pressure test in TSB 25-2134. I have a feeling they're wanting to just fix a small thing to get me out the door. When I dropped off the truck and explained what was going on and the TSB he acted like I was an idiot. Either that or he just didn't care. Maybe a mix. Which is why I avoided this dealer in the first place but we'll see.

It's a common misconception that dealerships don't want to perform warranty work. The shop rate for warranty work is higher so... Mother Ford will pay the dealership more money than you would for the same repair. Dealerships love warranty work because they get to charge Mother Ford more money.

 

[XRANGER2019]

My main goal here is to figure out how to get Ford to replace my transmission which is still under factory warranty. I bought it last June ('24) and noticed a small shudder at take off, and since I'd never had a 10-speed before I wasn't sure what the drive would be like. But after driving other Fords with the 10R80 transmission I belive I have issues with mine.

The dealer I took it to is fixing the shudder under warranty as it was an active TSB, 20-2277.

In the winter when it was cold it would shift and clunk HARD into 4th on the way up and when you'd come to a stop it would clunk hard back into 1st. Once things warmed up this mostly went away, and when it's warm weather it is much less noticeable.

Shifting appears rougher, like driving a stick, where you feel the gears changing, espeically coming to a stop. Myself and passengers have noticed we seem to feel each gear back down to 1. Again, it feel like driving a manual rather than an automatic. Other 10-speed Fords I've driven do not do this. This happens regardless of the weather and temperature.

Gear hunting, especially if I romp on the gas, turbo lag aside, it never seems to know what gear the truck should be in. Accelerating on a highway on-ramp is a rough and jerky endeavor.

At cruising speed, say in town, going 35-40Mph, when just maintaining or slightly giving it throttle, there are sometimes harsh jerks as though the gears in the transmission are missing teeth. This can be felt even at highway speeds in all gears. Most prevelant in warm weather, I didn't notice it nearly as much in the winter. It can be very violent at times but is usually more subtle.

The sound of shifting. Maybe it's just me, but this thing is LOUD when it shifts. Even with the windows up it makes a ton of noise each time it shifts gears. It lasts about a second during the change between gears. I'd hate to hear what it sounds like from the outside. I've not heard this on other 10R80s I've driven.

I am aware of a number of potential issues, especially around the CDF drum and bushing, but getting the dealer to look at it is proving to be difficult.
https://www.facebook.com/FlyingWren...ion-problems-cdf-clutch-drum/359189920158574/
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/attachments/ford-tsb-23-2250-pdf.220027/

Bascially, I just want it to feel like I'm driving a normal vehicle. As I said I've test-driven other current model Fords with the 10R80 and haven't experienced these issues. My neighbor has a 2021 Ranger and he's had none of these problems. My Dad has a 2018 F-150 with the same transmission and he's not had these issues either. I'm going to go to a different dealer in the area and test-drive a 2021 Ranger, and then a brand new one just to see how they drive and report back to the dealer working on mine.

Having said that, the dealer feels it is working properly, so I need to advice on how to help them see the issues I'm seeing, and ultimately, what my best path forward is to getting a new transmission from Ford. Because them telling "it's shifting fine" isn't gonna cut it. I appreciate everyone's input.

ford will never fix it right the valve body is the main problem go to nexgen.com and see what they have to say you will see why

 

[Doogie]

My main goal here is to figure out how to get Ford to replace my transmission which is still under factory warranty. I bought it last June ('24) and noticed a small shudder at take off, and since I'd never had a 10-speed before I wasn't sure what the drive would be like. But after driving other Fords with the 10R80 transmission I belive I have issues with mine.

The dealer I took it to is fixing the shudder under warranty as it was an active TSB, 20-2277.

In the winter when it was cold it would shift and clunk HARD into 4th on the way up and when you'd come to a stop it would clunk hard back into 1st. Once things warmed up this mostly went away, and when it's warm weather it is much less noticeable.

Shifting appears rougher, like driving a stick, where you feel the gears changing, espeically coming to a stop. Myself and passengers have noticed we seem to feel each gear back down to 1. Again, it feel like driving a manual rather than an automatic. Other 10-speed Fords I've driven do not do this. This happens regardless of the weather and temperature.

Gear hunting, especially if I romp on the gas, turbo lag aside, it never seems to know what gear the truck should be in. Accelerating on a highway on-ramp is a rough and jerky endeavor.

At cruising speed, say in town, going 35-40Mph, when just maintaining or slightly giving it throttle, there are sometimes harsh jerks as though the gears in the transmission are missing teeth. This can be felt even at highway speeds in all gears. Most prevelant in warm weather, I didn't notice it nearly as much in the winter. It can be very violent at times but is usually more subtle.

The sound of shifting. Maybe it's just me, but this thing is LOUD when it shifts. Even with the windows up it makes a ton of noise each time it shifts gears. It lasts about a second during the change between gears. I'd hate to hear what it sounds like from the outside. I've not heard this on other 10R80s I've driven.

I am aware of a number of potential issues, especially around the CDF drum and bushing, but getting the dealer to look at it is proving to be difficult.
https://www.facebook.com/FlyingWren...ion-problems-cdf-clutch-drum/359189920158574/
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/attachments/ford-tsb-23-2250-pdf.220027/

Bascially, I just want it to feel like I'm driving a normal vehicle. As I said I've test-driven other current model Fords with the 10R80 and haven't experienced these issues. My neighbor has a 2021 Ranger and he's had none of these problems. My Dad has a 2018 F-150 with the same transmission and he's not had these issues either. I'm going to go to a different dealer in the area and test-drive a 2021 Ranger, and then a brand new one just to see how they drive and report back to the dealer working on mine.

Having said that, the dealer feels it is working properly, so I need to advice on how to help them see the issues I'm seeing, and ultimately, what my best path forward is to getting a new transmission from Ford. Because them telling "it's shifting fine" isn't gonna cut it. I appreciate everyone's input.

I have an erratic shift between gears like 3 and 4 at times. Not very often. It's usually when I first leave in the morning. But get this , if I'd ever have serious problems I was told I'd have to drop my truck off in Shreveport, Louisiana. Yeah that's about 200 miles from where I live. I hope you get it fixed. You might have to raise your voice till some important steps up.

 

[waynejaynes81]

So...the local dealer said they found an issue and tracked it down to the EGR valve and replaced it under warranty. Said they were finally able to get it to act a little weird and I don't have it in front of me but I guess it would occaisionally throw a code they used to track it down. They said it drove better. I pushed for the hydraulic pressure test under TSB 25-2134, which he said they could do but it was expensive at $249. I don't think that's expensive so I said to do it. The work order shows they did the pressure test and the results were all within spec and didn't show a problem.

I picked up the truck and drove it home. It still shifts the same and still cluncks around. In particular 3 to 4. I still feel the gears when coming to a stop. So none of that was fixed. And the issue I thought would be fixed, the bucking between 30 and 50MPh? Well it did it yesterday just driving through town. So not fixed.

What I don't see on the paperwork is where I wanted the DPFE sensor checked.

I'm getting tired of this. For now it'll have to wait because I need to get my daughter's car into a shop that will replace a '13 Focus clutch for less than $3,000 which is the quote from the previous dealer 30 minutes away, and I need a spare car for her to drive.

 

[waynejaynes81]

I have ordered my own replacement DPFE sensor and will attempt to install it myself. I should not have to diagnose my own issues and tell the dealer what needs to be fixed. But it seems like all they know to do is scan it for codes and then respond to that. Am I expecting too much for them to actually attempt to diagnose my issues? It also might be my frustration growing with the driving experience, but it sure feels like it's driving worse now. It's been super hot and humid lately and just cruising through town at 40Mph in 8th gear it's bucking and jerking all over the place. I don't know how they didn't notice it.

 

[Skywalker268]

I'm taking mine in on Monday to have 25-2134 performed on it. Getting some harsh shifts and lugging on the highway. Really hope they don't give me any issues as this truck was originally sold in Canada and imported into the US (done properly, i have title and everything). Did the DPFE sensor fix your issues?

 

[waynejaynes81]

I would love to be able to tell you. There have been other issues going on, a death in the family, and I just haven't been able to get around to changing the sensor. Does anyone have steps for doing this? I went to do it myself last week and I couldn't see down into the bay well enough to see what I need to disconnect YouTube has conveniently skipped over the actuall process of installation and just shows after it was installed. I'm not the type to just start doing stuff I like to have it planned out if possible. Are there any special tools needed or anything?

 

[RangerBill]

I would love to be able to tell you. There have been other issues going on, a death in the family, and I just haven't been able to get around to changing the sensor. Does anyone have steps for doing this? I went to do it myself last week and I couldn't see down into the bay well enough to see what I need to disconnect YouTube has conveniently skipped over the actuall process of installation and just shows after it was installed. I'm not the type to just start doing stuff I like to have it planned out if possible. Are there any special tools needed or anything?

See this thread.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...mbly-replacement-write-up-lb5z-9j433-b.29247/

 

[waynejaynes81]

See this thread.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...mbly-replacement-write-up-lb5z-9j433-b.29247/

RangerBill, thank you for posting that! I'm sure anyone watching me swap the DPFE sensor out this morning in my driveway got a show and heard some interesting words, lol. I ended up buying a digital torque adapter at Harbor Freight that I realized too late wouldn't go low enough to set the 8 or so inch-pounds to torque the bolt down when reinstalling the sensor...oops. Then I could NOT get myself and both my hands down into where the hose clamps were in order to compress the clamps and remove the hoses, so I went to Auto Zone and got a hose clamp tool that looked nifty but I couldn't orient to bit onto the clamp, and I also got some hose clamp pliers to help loosen the hose, which also did not work. So I ended up going back to my long handle curved needle nose pliers I already had, and after some wiggling I got the hoses off. Reassembly was a breeze, especially with the twist-off plastic bits on the hose clamps. Genious invention!

I was unable to determine if the old sensor had any water in it sadly, but the test drive did not seem to buck at all. I'm going to drive it a while longer and see how that holds up. Now that I KNOW exactly how to change it any future changes should only take a few minutes.

Now I just need to get to the rest of my issues and hopefully before warranty is out in October...

• vibration on highway >70mph, not fixed after multiple tire balances
• harsh shifting between 3, 4, and 5, which suggests the CDF ring allignment issue
• I feel every shift on the way to a stop and it's driving me insane, like actual lurching
• soft brakes even after having an ABS bleed performed, have to push the peddle in a mile
• probably some other things I'm forgetting at the moment

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