Transmission slipping and rough shifts

[ctechbob]

Hi all. I am new to here. I live in Europe and have 2019 diesel Raptor with 10spd. Now at 70k km (43k miles) I have issues with trans. Sometimes trans slip out of gear and fall to limp mode. Diag say codes about solenoids.

In Europe is very bad support from dealers about transmissions, they just updated software and offer new trans for like 9k USD (25% of value whole truck).

I thing is will be good first step to change valve body, but trouble is, that I don´t know part number for my truck to order right part. I can manage transport from US.

Is there anyone to help?

Thank in advance.

Try adding Lubegard Platinum first. It might save you the dough. I believe you can get it across the pond through Amazon.

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[awd.nv]

This is an excellent short video from Ford Transmission Tech showing the CDF drum issue in the 10R80 Transmission. It is 2 minutes long and clearly explains the issue.

And it begins.... this very short video shows what is happening

Sheesh, wish this guy worked at my local Ford dealer. I hope the trans guys here in the Vegas area are as competent! Dude seems to know his stuff when it comes to these transmissions.

 

[TJC]

Try adding Lubegard Platinum first. It might save you the dough. I believe you can get it across the pond through Amazon.

I agree with ctechbob. Give LubeGuard Platinum a try it is readily available in the UK. I know because I logged my VPN into London and searched Amazon UK... Here is the link to it

I went 15,000 mile with a misbehaving transmission. I used an inexpensive 12v pump to remove 7.5 quarts of transmission fluid and replaced it with new ULV fluid and a 10 oz bottle of LubeGuard Platinum. The change was dramatic, and 700 miles later the transmission still shifts as smooth as silk.

I left my truck to cool overnight, and did the exchange on a cold engine / transmission.

Here is the link for the very same pump available from Amazon UK that I used. Just be sure to capture the fluid, measure it, And put the same amount back using the same pump. The 15 oz bottle may be your best choice as you can simply substitute it for a quart of ULV transmission fluid. I used 1 gallon jugs marked in 1 quart increments and pumped the old fluid directly into the jugs. It pumps slow enough to allow you to stop right on the quart increment lines. 2 Jugs are all you will need.

There is an excellent chance that you'll cure the problem if you do this.

 

[Ranger_Rocks]

I agree with ctechbob. Give LubeGuard Platinum a try it is readily available in the UK. I know because I logged my VPN into London and searched Amazon UK... Here is the link to it

I went 15,000 mile with a misbehaving transmission. I used an inexpensive 12v pump to remove 7.5 quarts of transmission fluid and replaced it with new ULV fluid and a 10 oz bottle of LubeGuard Platinum. The change was dramatic, and 700 miles later the transmission still shifts as smooth as silk.

I left my truck to cool overnight, and did the exchange on a cold engine / transmission.

Here is the link for the very same pump available from Amazon UK that I used. Just be sure to capture the fluid, measure it, And put the same amount back using the same pump. The 15 oz bottle may be your best choice as you can simply substitute it for a quart of ULV transmission fluid. I used 1 gallon jugs marked in 1 quart increments and pumped the old fluid directly into the jugs. It pumps slow enough to allow you to stop right on the quart increment lines. 2 Jugs are all you will need.

There is an excellent chance that you'll cure the problem if you do this.

Should everyone wait until their warranty has expired ??

 

[TJC]

Do whatever you like

Should everyone wait until their warranty has expired ??

Do whatever you like. That box you reference says exactly what I thought for years. In fact I spent a year deciding whether to go for it after I had evidence that it worked. The real important word in that last sentence is "MAY". My experience and others have shown amazing improvement since adding this "supplemental additive".

It is your dime, but I was at the point of selling the truck. This additive was the last arrow in my quiver. I used it. And on the very next test trip after 15,000 miles of jerking, missed shifts, and other serious transmission anomalies, it all disappeared. It has been 1000 silky smooth miles since I did the work. And I would not have believed it possible. BTW, Ford told me the transmission was working as designed when I took it in.

The clincher for me was over winter when I started the truck and was 500' from my home and I could hear the solenoids slowly energizing before the transmission would shift to the next gear. 10 second shift cycles from one gear to the next is NOT normal. And this was in 35F degrees! It wasn't even below freezing!

BTW, Ford also says in their manual that the transmission fluid never needs to be replaced. That it will last the life of the transmission. That statement is absolute BS! I have never seen transmission fluid come out BLACK... until I drained that 7.5 quarts of fluid after just 20,000 miles in my 2020 Ranger.

I carefully considered my choices:

1 - Live with it until it explodes
2 - Keep going back to Ford Service until it explodes
3 - Try LubeGuard Platinum and if it fails sell the truck
4 - Give up and immediately sell the truck

My wife has been urging me to sell the "lemon" (my truck) before it blows up for over 2 years, I told her if this doesn't work I will sell it.

It worked! Simple as that.

If this regimen holds and I think it will, I'll be changing the fluid every 20K miles with the LubeGuard Platinum to insure reliable long life of the 10R80.

 

[ctechbob]

Should everyone wait until their warranty has expired ??

That's common language in pretty much all cars across all makes. No manufacturer would specifically recommend LG or any other additive.*

For the most part, my thought is this.

Desperate times call for desperate measures. I waited for almost 50,000 miles after putting it in my own truck before I cautiously recommended it to a few people. If something was going to grenade, I wanted to be the one to take the hit.

The bottom line is, our valve bodies have problems. Problems that don't seem to get any better through programming or adaptive relearns. Problems that appear to be mechanical. The valves are sticking or varnishing and the LG appears to give it just enough 'extra' to free them up and let them work properly.

I'm also not saying this is 100% the magic bullet. It might not work for everyone, but at @$16 or so for a 10oz bottle, I would certainly give it a shot first.

I'm on record as saying that it won't help the CDF problem, but at least we appear to be able to mitigate valve body issues to some extent by using it. The jury is also still out if the CDF issue might at least be made worse by slamming shifts and pressure fluctuations. I'm not willing to say that it is, but an ill-shifting transmission certainly isn't doing all the other parts any favors.

I also consider LG to be largely a 'do no harm' company that doesn't make outlandish claims about their products fixing every problem known to man. They make a decent line of well thought out products and they're happy with their market niche, they're one of the ones I trust to not screw me over.

*SAAB did recommend one of their earlier products as a factory service once upon a time.

--EDIT--

As for warranty issues. As long as the trans has the proper level in it there should be no problem.
As many stories as I've read about people taking their trucks to the dealer, not one of them has said they took a close look at the fluid. Ford knows they have issues and they know the cause/solution. At this point they're just trying to get as many trucks out of warranty with the least amount of spend on their part until they can fix the problem through redesign. They're not doing any fluid analysis on trucks that are in for warranty, that would add to the cost.

Unless, that is, you brought a truck in and black tar or green goo poured out. Then they might have something to say. LG is red just like the OEM fluid, so short of a full on spectroscopic analysis, there's no way to tell it is in there.

--EDIT EDIT--

I also recommend a much more aggressive fluid change schedule. Like @TJC said, the 150,000 mile OEM recommendation is just bonkers (And there are good corporate reasons for it, but they are bad reasons for the rest of us.). Keeping microscopic debris out of the valve body (Particles smaller than the filter catches) I belive to be part of the solution as well. The only way to do that is through fresh fluid. 30,000 Drain and Fill and 60,000 Pan Drop/Filter replace. I think that is reasonable.

And no, those particles won't likely show up on an analysis, so even though you might pull an oil analysis and it says the oil is good-to-go I still think there is more there that is wearing on the valves. By all accounts the ULV fluid holds up fine, so no concern there, you just need to get the debris out.

 

[ctechbob]

Above link didn't quite work right, at least for me.

LUBEGARD 63010 Platinum Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz. : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

That one might work better for UK'ers

 

[TJC]

Above link didn't quite work right, at least for me.

LUBEGARD 63010 Platinum Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz. : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

That one might work better for UK'ers

Thanks for pointing the error out. I corrected my original post as well.. The previous link went to 4 LubeGuard products, the first of which was LubeGuard Platinum. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[5thranger]

Should everyone wait until their warranty has expired ??

It is Fords way of saying we will decide if lube is necessary or not before we molest you.

 

[5thranger]

That's common language in pretty much all cars across all makes. No manufacturer would specifically recommend LG or any other additive.*

For the most part, my thought is this.

Desperate times call for desperate measures. I waited for almost 50,000 miles after putting it in my own truck before I cautiously recommended it to a few people. If something was going to grenade, I wanted to be the one to take the hit.

The bottom line is, our valve bodies have problems. Problems that don't seem to get any better through programming or adaptive relearns. Problems that appear to be mechanical. The valves are sticking or varnishing and the LG appears to give it just enough 'extra' to free them up and let them work properly.

I'm also not saying this is 100% the magic bullet. It might not work for everyone, but at @$16 or so for a 10oz bottle, I would certainly give it a shot first.

I'm on record as saying that it won't help the CDF problem, but at least we appear to be able to mitigate valve body issues to some extent by using it. The jury is also still out if the CDF issue might at least be made worse by slamming shifts and pressure fluctuations. I'm not willing to say that it is, but an ill-shifting transmission certainly isn't doing all the other parts any favors.

I also consider LG to be largely a 'do no harm' company that doesn't make outlandish claims about their products fixing every problem known to man. They make a decent line of well thought out products and they're happy with their market niche, they're one of the ones I trust to not screw me over.

*SAAB did recommend one of their earlier products as a factory service once upon a time.

--EDIT--

As for warranty issues. As long as the trans has the proper level in it there should be no problem.
As many stories as I've read about people taking their trucks to the dealer, not one of them has said they took a close look at the fluid. Ford knows they have issues and they know the cause/solution. At this point they're just trying to get as many trucks out of warranty with the least amount of spend on their part until they can fix the problem through redesign. They're not doing any fluid analysis on trucks that are in for warranty, that would add to the cost.

Unless, that is, you brought a truck in and black tar or green goo poured out. Then they might have something to say. LG is red just like the OEM fluid, so short of a full on spectroscopic analysis, there's no way to tell it is in there.

--EDIT EDIT--

I also recommend a much more aggressive fluid change schedule. Like @TJC said, the 150,000 mile OEM recommendation is just bonkers (And there are good corporate reasons for it, but they are bad reasons for the rest of us.). Keeping microscopic debris out of the valve body (Particles smaller than the filter catches) I belive to be part of the solution as well. The only way to do that is through fresh fluid. 30,000 Drain and Fill and 60,000 Pan Drop/Filter replace. I think that is reasonable.

And no, those particles won't likely show up on an analysis, so even though you might pull an oil analysis and it says the oil is good-to-go I still think there is more there that is wearing on the valves. By all accounts the ULV fluid holds up fine, so no concern there, you just need to get the debris out.

As far as Ford trying to get vehicle out of warranty, I think you have a leg to stand on if there is documentation that there is an issue. Don't really know for sure if that is binding or not but at least you have something to fall back on before it becomes violent, and you order in a air strike on the dealership.

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