The new rangers have a cover/insulator over the high pressure fuel pump.

[airline tech]

So, the question is: since the mail has not ran yet.

The clamp stud does the cone fit on that stud? or do others need to order the stud with it?

I am thinking that as far as hardware - only 3 pieces are required to be purchased, as the Special Stud (cone) will just screw onto the existing stud. (Correct?)

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[Figarou]

So, the question is: since the mail has not ran yet.

The clamp stud does the cone fit on that stud? or do others need to order the stud with it?

I am thinking that as far as hardware - only 3 pieces are required to be purchased, as the Special Stud (cone) will just screw onto the existing stud. (Correct?)

There's a bolt where the stud goes. (Circled) You have to remove it to place the stud.

The next picture shows a stud for the engine cover, (right) and the stud for the fuel pump cover. (Left) It's not the same.

 

[subquark]

These are the parts. It arrived today. You can see where "stud special" screws on to the "stud."

You have to remove a bolt in order to place the "stud." I circled where it goes.

Those are great pics! Thank you so much! =)

And, my inner child just can't help it, STUD SPECIAL!

 

[airline tech]

Noted: Thanks, glad I ordered the hardware as well, since it was not clear.

 

[airline tech]

So, now its just the question of:
When the cover is installed, will it flex back far enough to get a (Fuel Line-Disconnect) tool on the line as now you will have 2 covers to push back to get on the (Connection Point) and may be the reason for the (Separate Here) wording on the cover. It will suck if that is the case.
Hate to cut it and take away its secondary feature (covering #4) COP, yes it can be sealed with RTV but if it can be done without cutting it- would be the most desirable - disconnect solution.

 

[Figarou]

So, now its just the question of:
When the cover is installed, will it flex back far enough to get a (Fuel Line-Disconnect) tool on the line as now you will have 2 covers to push back to get on the (Connection Point) and may be the reason for the (Separate Here) wording on the cover. It will suck if that is the case.
Hate to cut it and take away its secondary feature (covering #4) COP, yes it can be sealed with RTV but if it can be done without cutting it- would be the most desirable - disconnect solution.

It should fit. There's a member here where he placed one from a Bronco. I guess Ford did some refinements so you don't have to remove the cover for the Ranger.

My guess is that it was either difficult to remove the cover or a hassle just to get to the #4 spark plug.

Here's a picture where the parts snaps to.

 

[The Last Ranger]

Funny, I have a funky piece of grey pipe wrap to stop the water , I'm not worrying about cutting that cover as the black rtv or black gorilla tape will work for me and look a hell of alot better than grey foam.

 

[airline tech]

Parts received, will install latter in the week, I see now that the Longer (Special Stud) is (One Piece) and not 2 separate pieces.

 

[airline tech]

Installed:

Well, I installed the cover today and wanted to HIGHLIGHT some install notes:

First:
I attempted to disconnect the fuel line to avoid cutting the cover at the (Separate for Service)
Noted that it was impossible to get a tool to wedge between the cover and the line.

So, I pulled the (Metal Bracket) 4ea Torx Heads - 3 are T45 and 1 is T-30, 2 bolts are on the side and 2 are on the back (by feel only) - use you left hand to get the back ones out.

Once the bracket is removed, you can lift the (OE) cover off, and this allows access to the fuel line.

This is where I hit a ROADBLOCK, and I do not have a LOW PROFILE, Fuel Line Disconnect Tool for a (3/8?) line, tried to modify a cheaper one I have (standard profile) by grinding it down and I could get it to fit (wedge) between the pump and the line, but NO LUCK getting it to depress enough to disconnect.

Decision Time and take a deeper look at this (current roadblock)
Go to the Autoparts and ADD more tools to my box, a proper low profile or cut the cover.
Noting that even with the proper sized tool, there was no way I was going to get the tool in, as it was a fight with FULL ACCESS that I was going to be able to remove the fuel line with both covers covering it.
And the fuel line will have to be disconnected to get the (added cover off)

So, the decision was made - CUT THE COVER.
But of course, now I know I need to get the proper tool, if I ever need to actually pull it, as of now I would be stuck at a standstill.

Preinstall Notes:

Mine has a stud, at this location already installed - not a bolt.
So, all I needed to do was add the (Special Stud- Cone) on top of it

The stand-off for the wire harness needs to be pulled off, this actually routes over the top of the cover vs below it, the cover will not drop down with it in the way.
There is actually a hole in the cover to allow rerouting


This cover is already hampering the fuel line disconnect, and adding the cover over this makes it worse.
You MUST have a LOW PROFILE; fuel line disconnect tool to wedge between the fuel line and the pump.



Note: Mine already had the stud (Left), so just added the Special Stud on the top of it.

This harness stand-off needs removed (circled) so it can be rerouted over the top of the cover.

Highlighting 3ea - Electrical Connectors that you need to watch, so you do not damage them with the install of the cover. Be very careful to not hit them with the cover as you install it.

1 ea - To the Left of the pump
2 ea -To the Right of the pump

Forgot to (Circle) it - but you can see the other (Special Stud) I installed to the right of the pump.

Now the FUN part:

Cut the cover (On the line)

This cover is rather tall, and it is a VERY TIGHT fit, to wedge down under the AC Lines.
I had this on and off a few times.
I found it best is to stand the cover up on its side and get your hands on the backside of the cover and stretch it over the top edge of the pump.
Once that is started, gently push aft and down and it will drop down over the back side.
Then fish the wire harness out from underneath the cover and route it over the top.

Then shift the cover around (Center It) and with your right-hand fish the RH (cut) leg under the fuel line, and shake the cover some and it will drop down into the (Special Stud)

Now move to the LH cut leg, and fish it down under the fuel line, and push it down over the other (Special Stud)

Then secure your now rerouted wire harness back onto the stud it was removed from.


Installed:

Wire harness rerouted
Cut Point - To Separate the Legs - allows to get under the fuel line.

Very Tight clearance to the AC Line, I was able to shift the line up just enough to provide about 1/16 clearance.

Initial Thoughts:

Does it quiet the pump down.? -- SOME, but my engine was warm. as I had started it to bring back the fuel pressure, I bled off prior to my attempt at disconnecting the line.
Will, note when cold engine, when it's the loudest.

Will this help deflect the rainwater from the plug wells? - YES, but I do not have or had any issues thus far on that issue.

Are the studs needed? - NO, the cover fits tight anyways.

Is it worth the investment? - Jury is still out, I think for those with the water in the wells issue it may be worth it, because it at least covers #4 COP

 

[wetidlerjr]

No cover buy/install for me as this procedure is way out of line. Besides, I like noisy.
You all have fun with this.

 

[Figarou]

Installed:

Well, I installed the cover today and wanted to HIGHLIGHT some install notes:

First:
I attempted to disconnect the fuel line to avoid cutting the cover at the (Separate for Service)
Noted that it was impossible to get a tool to wedge between the cover and the line.

So, I pulled the (Metal Bracket) 4ea Torx Heads - 3 are T45 and 1 is T-30, 2 bolts are on the side and 2 are on the back (by feel only) - use you left hand to get the back ones out.

Once the bracket is removed, you can lift the (OE) cover off, and this allows access to the fuel line.

This is where I hit a ROADBLOCK, and I do not have a LOW PROFILE, Fuel Line Disconnect Tool for a (3/8?) line, tried to modify a cheaper one I have (standard profile) by grinding it down and I could get it to fit (wedge) between the pump and the line, but NO LUCK getting it to depress enough to disconnect.

Decision Time and take a deeper look at this (current roadblock)
Go to the Autoparts and ADD more tools to my box, a proper low profile or cut the cover.
Noting that even with the proper sized tool, there was no way I was going to get the tool in, as it was a fight with FULL ACCESS that I was going to be able to remove the fuel line with both covers covering it.
And the fuel line will have to be disconnected to get the (added cover off)

So, the decision was made - CUT THE COVER.
But of course, now I know I need to get the proper tool, if I ever need to actually pull it, as of now I would be stuck at a standstill.

Preinstall Notes:

Mine has a stud, at this location already installed - not a bolt.
So, all I needed to do was add the (Special Stud- Cone) on top of it

The stand-off for the wire harness needs to be pulled off, this actually routes over the top of the cover vs below it, the cover will not drop down with it in the way.
There is actually a hole in the cover to allow rerouting


This cover is already hampering the fuel line disconnect, and adding the cover over this makes it worse.
You MUST have a LOW PROFILE; fuel line disconnect tool to wedge between the fuel line and the pump.



Note: Mine already had the stud (Left), so just added the Special Stud on the top of it.

This harness stand-off needs removed (circled) so it can be rerouted over the top of the cover.

Highlighting 3ea - Electrical Connectors that you need to watch, so you do not damage them with the install of the cover. Be very careful to not hit them with the cover as you install it.

1 ea - To the Left of the pump
2 ea -To the Right of the pump

Forgot to (Circle) it - but you can see the other (Special Stud) I installed to the right of the pump.

Now the FUN part:

Cut the cover (On the line)

This cover is rather tall, and it is a VERY TIGHT fit, to wedge down under the AC Lines.
I had this on and off a few times.
I found it best is to stand the cover up on its side and get your hands on the backside of the cover and stretch it over the top edge of the pump.
Once that is started, gently push aft and down and it will drop down over the back side.
Then fish the wire harness out from underneath the cover and route it over the top.

Then shift the cover around (Center It) and with your right-hand fish the RH (cut) leg under the fuel line, and shake the cover some and it will drop down into the (Special Stud)

Now move to the LH cut leg, and fish it down under the fuel line, and push it down over the other (Special Stud)

Then secure your now rerouted wire harness back onto the stud it was removed from.


Installed:

Wire harness rerouted
Cut Point - To Separate the Legs - allows to get under the fuel line.

Very Tight clearance to the AC Line, I was able to shift the line up just enough to provide about 1/16 clearance.

Initial Thoughts:

Does it quiet the pump down.? -- SOME, but my engine was warm. as I had started it to bring back the fuel pressure, I bled off prior to my attempt at disconnecting the line.
Will, note when cold engine, when it's the loudest.

Will this help deflect the rainwater from the plug wells? - YES, but I do not have or had any issues thus far on that issue.

Are the studs needed? - NO, the cover fits tight anyways.

Is it worth the investment? - Jury is still out, I think for those with the water in the wells issue it may be worth it, because it at least covers #4 COP

And it pairs nicely with the engine cover.

 

[Dereku]

Seems like a lot of effort for noise reduction and water intrusion prevention. Sealing the cowl seems easier. I personally like to hear the sounds of a 4cyl tractor.

 

[Jason B]

And it pairs nicely with the engine cover.

I take it you are a belt and suspenders kind of guy.

 

[The Last Ranger]

And it pairs nicely with the engine cover.

Looks great and hopefully I will get my parts soon. I'm doing this not necessarily for noise reduction but thats a plus, but for the added water protection. I really can't stand the look of the grey hose insulation I have to block the water, its ugly!!!!!

 

[Figarou]

I take it you are a belt and suspenders kind of guy.

"Belt and suspenders" has multiple meanings:

Fashion
A traditional fashion mistake to wear both a belt and suspenders because they both serve the same purpose of holding up pants. However, some people wear them together for a unique look.

Finance
A colloquial phrase that describes conservative lending practices. It's based on the idea that wearing a belt and suspenders gives the wearer two redundant ways to hold up their pants.

Business
A phrase used in business negotiations to describe a situation where two protective strategies are used to minimize risk.

General
A phrase that means using multiple methods or procedures to achieve a desired result, especially out of caution or fear of failure. For example, "I wrote to them and phoned as well—belt and braces, I admit."


Yes.....the "general" meaning. Better safe than sorry.

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