Replace the fuel tank to replace low pressure pump?

[WAC51]

OK, in with the dealer today and spoke with the mechanic who took the pump out, apparently the tank is pressurized and when you remove the ring this can release the pressure and distort the opening of the tank meaning that you cannot put a ring back on the tank (so he is confirming that it is the tank opening that is the issue, not the ring). Does this make sense to anybody?

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[ControlNode]

To me, not really. Why would they not have relieved the pressure when the fill hose or other lines were removed, or did they remove the bed to avoid removing the tank and forgot to relieve the pressure first?

On the 2.3L EcoBoost step 2 of the removal directions for the fuel tank (which is step one of sending unit removal) is to depressurize the fuel system and then by the time you open the tank to attach the drain hose to drain the tank there should be no pressure in the tank by the time they get to that ring.

Additional thoughts: I would almost think the easiest way damage would be caused is by cross threading the ring on tank while re-assembling it. But, I'm not a tech at a dealership and only have experience with my own vehicles.

 

[airline tech]

The only way possible for the tank to still be pressurized at that point of removal would be if they removed the bed of the truck (alternate of dropping the tank)
Even so, the manuals require to release the fuel pressure before doing anything with the fuel system (Pull FP fuse or Relay) and crank the engine over.
So, the explanation of what happened (pressurized) is not why it happened, even if they just removed the bed (route) the fuel lines being disconnected would also release that fuel pressure (with a lot of fuel spray)

So, the bottom line is - if done correctly at that point of pump removal there will not be any pressure on the tank as the fuel lines will already be disconnected as well as pressure released by pulling the FP fuse and or FP Relay.
Now it is possible for this (pressure still on) and that is only IF they removed the truck bed and went straight to the (threaded nut) without doing any of the (previous) required procedures.

It just boils down to the design nature of the plastic threads expanding when the threaded nut is removed (it allows the tank threads to expand)
There is a method to try that may work and that is (Dry Ice or Freezer) the tank and heat the nut - then assemble.
But for safety reasons- I would just bite the bullet and get the new tank.

 

[Cmar]

Even so, the manuals require to release the fuel pressure before doing anything with the fuel system (Pull FP fuse or Relay) and crank the engine over.
So, the explanation of what happened (pressurized) is not why it happened, even if they just removed the bed (route) the fuel lines being disconnected would also release that fuel pressure (with a lot of fuel spray)

Agreed, but even this is just to release the pressure in the injector lines on the engine (petrol engine) and the low pressure lines from the tank pump to the filter and HP pump at the engine
(both diesel and petrol). The actual physical pressure in the tank is really mostly due to vapour pressure from the fuel, as I think the diesel tanks are internally vented into the filler pipe. All you would have to do would be to remove the filler cap.

My vehicle is a global diesel model and I can't ever remember experiencing a rush of air either in or out when removing the fuel cap.

Hmmm it's diesel, it doesn't have the same vapour pressure as petrol normally, (one reason why it is so popular in the Australian outback- greatly reduced fire hazzard) most particularly in a country like Ireland, which must be close to freezing this time of year. They must have a lovely heated workshop.

Has anyone I wonder actually shown the OP the tank and the issue, or is he having to go on the story alone?

 

[Superspirit]

As a retired master auto tech, this all sounds like a scam to me. I've done hundreds of fuel pumps in my 30 plus years as a tech. And I've been reading this thread from the start. Airline tech gives awesome advice. But this whole ordeal with the dealer sounds like a scam. Yes the threads on the tank can be damaged, but their explanation is flat out bullshit.

 

[ControlNode]

NEVERMIND: the headline I saw last night made it sound like it's the LPFP, but I just looked up the recall on NHTSA and it's the HPFP.

I just saw where in the US the diesel powered F-series have a recall on the LPFP. It may be worth your time to see if the Ranger happens to use the same LPFP there as our F-series. If it happens to be the same you may be able to reach out to the Ford Customer Service for your region and push for it being converted to a recall, if that can be done all cost would be between Ford EU and your dealership to figure out who is paying for what. I would not bring up the tank issue with Ford until you get a definite answer on if they will do a recall on the LPFP. If they commit to that, then expand to conversion to the issues of the dealer saying it needs a new tank and why should you be responsible for that if performing a recall caused it.

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