Another CV Axle joint popped out post. Please have mercy I need some input.

[Domino77]

As I have read here since I made my mistake (and others before me) I was installing a leveling kit and completely popped my driver side CV Axle joint out. I know, I should have taken the axle nut off. Have mercy on me I need some input. I have tried lining it back up and it isn't sliding back in from what I have read it should. Does anyone know the trick? Is mine possibly damaged? I ordered a new one but it looks like a more difficult job to get that CV housing out of the transfer case (differential?). I really just need some input on what my next steps can or should be. Clean the grease off inspect it for damage before trying to get it back up in there? Can the CV bearing be changed out if damaged? Or F-it and just get it towed to a shop(which I really can't afford).

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[DukeCanBuildit]

Well, that sucks.

It might go back in - others on here have done it. I think @Colo_Ranger popped his and got it back.

Maybe search the forum for putting a popped cv axle back in or check out some of the Similar Threads at the bottom this page or other pages your search provides.

If you decide to buy and install a new one, here’s a link to the installation pdf from Ford. I think you need to drain the differential and you might also need some special tools or new seals and such. Unfortunately, It’s often never as easy or straightforward as it sounds. Good luck.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/attachments/front_drive_halfshafts-1-pdf.162459/

 

[LB'sTremor]

It will not just slide in, line it up streight and give it a couple of good wacks with a dead blow or small sledge with a block of wood so you don't jack up the threads and it should pop in..

Good Luck! worst case complete axles are ~$150 - cheaper than a tow and repair bill. The shaft pops out of the housing with a c-clip (a couple of large pry bars will get it. There is a PDF somewhere on here, I will see if I can find it.

This PDF shows prying it out with large prybars. Hope that helps!

LB

 

[Colo_Ranger]

It sounds like you’ve gotten all the advice you need, but I had mine separate. Engage the CV as best you can, rotate until it binds, then smack it with a rubber mallet (or use the board like suggested above). It’s annoying and takes time, but it can be done.

Good luck!

 

[NotBudule2]

 

[Colo_Ranger]

 

[BK553]

Mine popped out, too; I used a jack to put about 10-15lbs of pressure upwards, then turned the hub back and forth, and it popped back in like a displaced shoulder.

 

[Domino77]

This is all the info/advice that I was looking for. I bought the complete assembly, but it sounds like a major job getting the complete housing out of the differential. I also bought a motorcraft repair CV joint bearing set. I figure its out and I have 55K on it so I'm gonna change it out. Although concerned if the tow package matters I seen 2 different priced Motorcraft. ones with Found a good YouTube video with a mechanic explaining the "need to know" info for reinstalling the bearing clip opening goes up etc.

THANKS A Million guys! (and/or gals?) Needless to say I was in full panic mode yesterday this helps me relax some.

Can't touch this oh oh oh oh oh oh oh

Thanks, NotBudule2 for the 90s flash back.

 

[Domino77]

Mine popped out, too; I used a jack to put about 10-15lbs of pressure upwards, then turned the hub back and forth, and it popped back in like a displaced shoulder.

This sounds like what I need to do but im confused what did you jack up? the hub sticking out of the differential or did you put the axle nut back on at the spindle to get it straight in? It sticks out to far for me to get it back up and bolted in at the upper control arm to try that. Sorry im not picturing what you are doing. Please explain further if you could please.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

This sounds like what I need to do but im confused what did you jack up? the hub sticking out of the differential or did you put the axle nut back on at the spindle to get it straight in? It sticks out to far for me to get it back up and bolted in at the upper control arm to try that. Sorry im not picturing what you are doing. Please explain further if you could please.

Do yourself a big favour and consider removing the calliper and rotor and hanging the calliper out of the way. That‘s just extra weight you have to fight while wrestling with that CV.

 

[airline tech]

With the CV Joints - It's all about ANGLE and rotation of the shaft to get it to slide into position.

It is usually easier just to pull the complete shaft out (inner) housing and get it on a vise and then fit it together. This way you are not fighting to get the correct angle as much, you are also fighting against air pockets (within the boot and the grease itself)

From the pic (it appears you have some sand /dirt) in the joint, that needs cleaned and new lube installed.

To remove the (inner housing) just use a prybar and with a quick motion (prying) it will release from the circlip.
Now this is what the manual has as the procedure, I however do not like prying against the case. I have a slide hammer with an adaptor to pull it off.
Sometimes the circlips can be a PITA to release, thus more torque required to break the tension of the clip.
The (quick motion is the key) for removal.
It can be done with a prybar, I just prefer the slide hammer over it.

It is not necessary to drain the diff, however you may lose some fluid, so just top it off when the job is complete. If you lose some.

Personally, have not done this on the Ranger yet, but since you have not noted it yet, you are going to have to disconnect the upper ball joint and tie rod end from the knuckle as well as the sway bar link.
Slide the CV shaft in (and in a quick motion) a quick jab with the shaft will lock the circlip in place.
Then take the knuckle / hub and slide it over the o/b shaft to get it started.

Sometimes if you have enough swing (side to side) you can compress the shaft just enough to get it started into the hub, then slowly rotate it back to center shaking the shaft slightly while gliding it into the hub (splines)

What BK553 is stating, he jacked the lower control arm up to get a better (straight) shaft alignment with the outer splines of the shaft inside the hub.

Yes, the shafts have different part numbers 4WD (with and without) tow package
It does not specify the difference but generally it is the length of the shaft that is different when given options.

Stage 3 Motorsports has a good video; however, it is the passenger side, but steps are the same.

2019 Ranger Shop Day Replacing Broken CV Axle (youtube.com)

 

[airline tech]

Researched - yes, the Tow Package shafts are longer and have a different (socket size) nut.

Using Rock-Auto (info) specs as a guide and compare the TP vs Non-TP shafts
For the Left Shaft:
Tow Package = 24.21 (in) compressed length - axle nut (socket size) 32mm
W/0 - Tow Package 23.94 (in) compressed length - axle nut (socket size) 36 mm

So, it is possible to ensure you have ordered the correct shaft is to know which size socket fits over the axle nut as a secondary confirmation, not absolute but a secondary way to know which part number you may have installed (if the parts tag is no longer attached)

 

[KJRR]

Wait a minute, what did you do with NotBudule?
Did he end up like Budule?
Or is this the new and improved version? V3? ?
One Budule or NotBudule is enough for any forum.
I'm not sure we can handle 2 of them.

 

[Grish]

Researched - yes, the Tow Package shafts are longer and have a different (socket size) nut.

Using Rock-Auto (info) specs as a guide and compare the TP vs Non-TP shafts
For the Left Shaft:
Tow Package = 24.21 (in) compressed length - axle nut (socket size) 32mm
W/0 - Tow Package 23.94 (in) compressed length - axle nut (socket size) 36 mm

So, it is possible to ensure you have ordered the correct shaft is to know which size socket fits over the axle nut as a secondary confirmation, not absolute but a secondary way to know which part number you may have installed (if the parts tag is no longer attached)

Fudge!!!!! I just ordered a new one and bet money I didn’t get the correct one. 1/4” doesn’t seem like much but when it’s already at max with leveling kit I bet I’m sending it back and reordering

 

[NotBudule2]

Wait a minute, what did you do with NotBudule?
Did he end up like Budule?
Or is this the new and improved version? V3? ?
One Budule or NotBudule is enough for any forum.
I'm not sure we can handle 2 of them.

There was an "incident " with my phone and I can't get back on as NotBudule anymore ?, sadly ... and in Budule's defense, none of the versions has been on at the same time arguing with each other , like in my head...

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