SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

[quangdog]

While it is possible to do this without removing the whole assembly, you may have to disconnect the whole assembly to get access to the rear attaching screws (Limited Access)
To allow the assembly to move back far enough off of the firewall to get your hands / tool in that tight area.

It appears you can possibly clear the EVAP Core without disrupting the lines but the Heater Core mounts in the space at the bottom of this part of the assembly, I think this is going to be a road block for a short cut.
It appears the Heater Core will have to slide out of the assembly and out of the way to allow this to raise up and out as it is encased.

Thanks - I just found your **EXCELLENT** write up with all the theory of operation and explanation of all the airflow paths... and I gotta say you are a goldmine of info.

I'm totally comfortable with draining the coolant (probably time for it anyway) to remove the heater core. I'd prefer not to have to also evac the refrigerant, simply because of the cost of recharging the system... but if it must be evac'd to get access to the fasteners, so be it.

Based on your description though, it sounds like the AC evaporator likely can stay in place, but the heater core will need to come out, which would be just fine with me.

(This is how I understand things will be - please correct me if I'm wrong).

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[airline tech]

Thanks - I just found your **EXCELLENT** write up with all the theory of operation and explanation of all the airflow paths... and I gotta say you are a goldmine of info.

I'm totally comfortable with draining the coolant (probably time for it anyway) to remove the heater core. I'd prefer not to have to also evac the refrigerant, simply because of the cost of recharging the system... but if it must be evac'd to get access to the fasteners, so be it.

Based on your description though, it sounds like the AC evaporator likely can stay in place, but the heater core will need to come out, which would be just fine with me.

(This is how I understand things will be - please correct me if I'm wrong).

Yes that appears to be correct, it looks like fairly easy screw access except for the 2 screws in the back
The 2 side tabs appear to be spring clips that hold the mount points together

 

[Langwilliams]

I'd prefer not to have to also evac the refrigerant, simply because of the cost of recharging the system...

There's a good chance I don't know what I'm talking about but I thought if you use the machine to evac the AC system they can just return that refridgerant into the system. Does it contaminate it or something?

 

[Frenchy]

There's a good chance I don't know what I'm talking about but I thought if you use the machine to evac the AC system they can just return that refridgerant into the system. Does it contaminate it or something?

It does not contaminate the system if you use the correct machine to do so. If you just let the refrigerant go to the atmosphere then it will be very expensive to replace the refrigerant as 1234YF is ridiculous

 

[quangdog]

There's a good chance I don't know what I'm talking about but I thought if you use the machine to evac the AC system they can just return that refridgerant into the system. Does it contaminate it or something?

You are correct - suck it out into machine, then use same machine to put it back. No problem... except that I don't own such a machine. I'll have to take it to a shop to have it evacuated, then drive the truck home, perform the repair, then take the truck back to a shop to have it recharged. I have not checked yet, but it's extremely unlikely they will evac/recharge for free. At the least I'll likely need to pay probably 30-60 mins of shop time for each procedure, and even if I take it to the same place that recovered the refrigerant, they may still charge me for the refrigerant to recharge it.

I'm still in the research phase of this whole debacle though, so I don't have any actual quotes etc... but back when I owned an escape hybrid, I needed to evacuate the system to replace the AC compressor. I called around and found a shop that was willing to evacuate it for free, but they charged me to recharge it. This was with the cheaper R-134A stuff though, so it was not hugely expensive. @Frenchy is right though - 1234YF is currently going for $60ish / 12oz can at my local auto parts store. I have not checked the capacity of this truck, but I'll likely need at least 2 cans. Maybe 3.

 

[Motorpsychology]

You are correct - suck it out into machine, then use same machine to put it back. No problem... except that I don't own such a machine. I'll have to take it to a shop to have it evacuated, then drive the truck home, perform the repair, then take the truck back to a shop to have it recharged. I have not checked yet, but it's extremely unlikely they will evac/recharge for free. At the least I'll likely need to pay probably 30-60 mins of shop time for each procedure, and even if I take it to the same place that recovered the refrigerant, they may still charge me for the refrigerant to recharge it.

I'm still in the research phase of this whole debacle though, so I don't have any actual quotes etc... but back when I owned an escape hybrid, I needed to evacuate the system to replace the AC compressor. I called around and found a shop that was willing to evacuate it for free, but they charged me to recharge it. This was with the cheaper R-134A stuff though, so it was not hugely expensive. @Frenchy is right though - 1234YF is currently going for $60ish / 12oz can at my local auto parts store. I have not checked the capacity of this truck, but I'll likely need at least 2 cans. Maybe 3.

They may have to dispose of the refrigerant. Their hazmat permit probably allows for only so much of each listed material stored on site. Besides, they may not want to have their evac pump tied up with your refrigerant while you fix your heater.

 

[Frenchy]

They may have to dispose of the refrigerant. Their hazmat permit probably allows for only so much of each listed material stored on site. Besides, they may not want to have their evac pump tied up with your refrigerant while you fix your heater.

As long as the refrigerant tank on site has room they would care less.

 

[Chris Frazier]

Good to have extended warranty, which paid for my blend door work and transmission replacement.

 

[MarkR]

Just did the replacement of the blend box. Didn’t touch the heater core or anything else, only the blend box. You can pull the blend box toward the drivers side and it will come out. The two screws facing the fire wall did take some time but they’re reachable with a stubby screwdriver.

I bought the blend box online for $230 shipped.

couple of tips. Move seats back before unhooking battery. Move shifter to neutral so the trim piece will come off. The single bolt on the dash by the window doesn’t need to come all the way out.

there’s a YouTube video of a guy doing this job that really helped. Just ignore the ac and heater core part.

 

[MarkR]

Just did the replacement of the blend box. Didn’t touch the heater core or anything else, only the blend box. You can pull the blend box toward the drivers side and it will come out. The two screws facing the fire wall did take some time but they’re reachable with a stubby screwdriver.

I bought the blend box online for $230 shipped.

couple of tips. Move seats back before unhooking battery. Move shifter to neutral so the trim piece will come off. The single bolt on the dash by the window doesn’t need to come all the way out.

there’s a YouTube video of a guy doing this job that really helped. Just ignore the ac and heater core part.

 

[MarkR]

When putting the dash back you’ll see two tabs on the brackets on the transmission tunnel. The brackets have 4 screws, just remove the top two. When you put those tabs in the holes the dash will swing up towards the fire wall. Goes right in.

sorry about the picture. It’s the silver bracket to the left

 

[quangdog]

Just did the replacement of the blend box. Didn’t touch the heater core or anything else, only the blend box. You can pull the blend box toward the drivers side and it will come out. The two screws facing the fire wall did take some time but they’re reachable with a stubby screwdriver.

I bought the blend box online for $230 shipped.

couple of tips. Move seats back before unhooking battery. Move shifter to neutral so the trim piece will come off. The single bolt on the dash by the window doesn’t need to come all the way out.

there’s a YouTube video of a guy doing this job that really helped. Just ignore the ac and heater core part.

This is incredibly good news! I'm ordering the blend door box today.

A few questions:
1) Did you need to order any other extra parts? Are there any "while you're in there" things you did or wish you did?
2) How long did the whole job take? I'm planning to set aside a whole weekend to do mine in the next few weeks.
3) Did the replacement solve the issues with your truck's HVAC?

Thanks!

 

[airline tech]

This is incredibly good news! I'm ordering the blend door box today.

A few questions:
1) Did you need to order any other extra parts? Are there any "while you're in there" things you did or wish you did?
2) How long did the whole job take? I'm planning to set aside a whole weekend to do mine in the next few weeks.
3) Did the replacement solve the issues with your truck's HVAC?

Thanks!

Cool , you know after I posted last on the heater core - removal I thought about that. It was all dependent upon how far you could raise it and get it to slide sideways towards the driver’s side.

 

[airline tech]

When putting the dash back you’ll see two tabs on the brackets on the transmission tunnel. The brackets have 4 screws, just remove the top two. When you put those tabs in the holes the dash will swing up towards the fire wall. Goes right in.

sorry about the picture. It’s the silver bracket to the left

Is it possible to post a short video of how the mode doors move with the old unit.
Or a pic of the defrost door ?
And a pic of the Temp Doors in a closed position?
When I posted my Thread , this is something I was really wanting to add

 

[quangdog]

Is it possible to post a short video of how the mode doors move with the old unit.
Or a pic of the defrost door ?
And a pic of the Temp Doors in a closed position?
When I posted my Thread , this is something I was really wanting to add

I'll be glad to try to get video / photos of various components, though I likely won't do a full "how-to" video - I simply won't have time to film at that level of detail while working.

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