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Any Truth to This Regarding Disabling Stop/Start

Friday yet?

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If there was only a button inside the cab near the shifter to push to disable the S/S feature
My thoughts exactly. Just hit the button and move on. 99% of the time I hit it before I even back out of the garage. The rare occasion that I forget.... soon as it shuts down at a light I'm hitting the button instantly.
 

Rocketeer61

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Already done. Cost less than $3k. Not that it’s chump change but it’s not so bad for a new transmission and converter already filled and ready to install.
Well that sucks.
 


DukeCanBuildit

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Potlickr

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If you want to disable auto start/stop it’s simple.
Unplug the little connector on the battery ground.
Disabled permanently until plugged back in.
Only side effect is the little grey A when the auto stop/start isn’t engaged at a stop or when you hit the off button for the auto stop/start
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Yes.XL FX2 with STX pkg.
Either it‘s not available on the XL trim or it may have been one of the dozens of small items deleted since 2019.

It is limited to charging or powering small devices so you’re not missing much but when it’s in use, the Auto Stop/Start is deactivated to save the battery. Hence, the nightlight hack.
 

airline tech

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I have posted this a few times but to my knowledge nobody has tried it:
I have a 2022 that had the ASS Deleted from the Factory and was curious as to what Ford actually did to disable it. These are my findings after multiple As Built Comparisons between various trucks.

The ONLY UNKNOWN is, will this work without faults being generated with the ASS Switch still installed.
As the circuit will still be complete, and unknown at this point without testing it out on a truck that still has it installed.

I did as built comparisons throughout multiple years and trim levels, looking for differences.
The ones that stood out related to ASS are the following.

My ASS switch is removed and is not included in the switch pack on the lower console.

These 2 Hex-Code Lines were changed.

FCIM:
7A7-01-01 (0076-81DC-1497) ASS Enabled Truck - Switch Enabled
7A7-01-01 (0076-80DC-1496) ASS Deleted Truck - (Switch Disabled) (Mine)

So, change 81DC to 80DC.

So, this change disables the switch input.

IPC:
720-01-01 (2F0F-3464-7271) ASS IPC Screen / Indicator - Enabled
720-01-01 (2F0F-1464-7251) ASS IPC Screen/ Indicator - Disabled (Mine)

So, change 3464 to 1464.

So, this change disables the ASS Screen and Auto Stop/Start Indicator Light on the IPC

NOTE: If you have never changed Hex-Codes, the last (2) digits of the last set of numbers will automatically change if anything on the Hex Line was changed.
This is the Check-Sum numbers for the Line Code.

The popular disable via Forscan is to disable the BMS or disconnect the connector, this in turn disables the ASS, as it cannot read the battery voltage input for Auto Stop - Start to function.

NOTE: My ASS Delete from Ford does not alter this Hex-Code, it remains unchanged.

BCM:
726-48-02 (0100-0000-0179) - With ASS
726-48-02 (0100-0000-0179) - With ASS Deleted from factory.

So, for owners that still have ASS Active, and the switch installed.
It may be worth a try to change the above FCIM & IPC Hex-Codes as noted to see if you can get a ASS Delete without any fault codes triggering as the only difference between mine and others that have it, is the switch is still installed.

Note: I still have the Cabin Coolant Heater Pump - Installed, so IF I were to choose to reenable the ASS (Which Will NEVER Happen) all I need to do is purchase a switch pack with the ASS included and make the (2) Hex-Code changes back to Enabled.
The Cabin Heater Pump - is an electric coolant pump that keeps the coolant flowing through the heater core with the engine in ASS Mode (Engine Off - ASS Active)

Other Known Ways to Disable the ASS.
(Without Faults or Indicator Lights)
Install a Night-Light in the rear power plug, this puts an Amp Draw on the system.
or
Install the (Jumper) - Auto Stop / Start Eliminator at the switch, this unit basically hits the switch for you after you start the truck.
or
Play George Jetson at every engine start and hit the button.

As an example, from Auto Trader here is a Pic of the Console Switch Pack.
I have noted various layouts of the switches for the trims, but each row of switches has one connector to feed all the switches in the row.

Your switch layout and number will depend on the options the truck has.
Such as E-Locker and Trail Control


Mine only has the (Bottom Row) of switches and the Upper Row is just a Blank Plate.

When I did my TM Switch (Add/Mod) I had this panel apart, I do not remember if I had any extra connectors tied off under the panel (going nowhere)
I am quite sure the wiring is there for the ASS Switch, will look if I ever have a need to pull that apart again.

This is only if the Hex-Line changes triggers faults with the ASS Switch installed.
Options for a work around.

Note: If you have a switch layout like the one below, then if the switch being installed gives you faults after changing the Hex Code Lines, then simply disconnect the single connector going to the ASS Switch on the Upper Row.
If the ASS switch is embedded with other switches on the row, then try to locate a switch row that has (ONLY) the switches you need on that row without the ASS switch embedded.

As my online research shows various options, you may find the one you need.

ASS Switch.jpg
 
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RangerFropa

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If you want to disable auto start/stop it’s simple.
Unplug the little connector on the battery ground.
Disabled permanently until plugged back in.
Only side effect is the little grey A when the auto stop/start isn’t engaged at a stop or when you hit the off button for the auto stop/start
This will adversely affect the Battery Management System.
 

Grumpaw

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None of these problems, and I emphasize, NONE, would occur, if you all would simply follow one step.....
DO NOT DRIVE YOUR RANGER !!! They are for display only.....your dealer lied to you.....they are not ment to be used in a normal way !!!
 

TechEditor

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Not Me! Late 2022 XL, no switch, just a blanking plate.
 

conductor

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Why all the screwing around trying to get the stop and start disabled with 120 pushes, and Electric plugs, why don't you just disconnect the BMS right at the negative terminal on the battery one wire, takes 10 seconds and after that no more stop start. And it charges the battery up the way it's supposed to.
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