Oil change boo-boo

[DaveT]

I used to do my own oil changes, no more, and I don't trust places like Jiffy Lube. It is dealer only now. The Ranger is a fair bit of work (for me) to do a home oil change. 1. Taking off the left wheel for access (or struggling around it), 2. Dealing with the plastic plugs that sometimes get damaged. 3. Removing and reinstalling skid plate 4. Buying the filter and oil. 5. Laying down protective oil splatter cardboard. 6. Disposing of old oil. 6. Getting the correct oil filter wrench if I can't get the old filter off by hand. For $120, it goes to the dealer (Autonation Ford). They use semisynthetic Motorcraft oil, rotate the tires, check transmission fluid, fill wiper fluid, top off brake fluid if necessary, check brake pads, replace plastic plugs if damaged with OEM plugs, clean up the mess, dispose of old oil and reset the oil change warning. Additionally, they probably make no mistakes as I might, and as the OP did. Everything done in one hour while I watch TV in their waiting room.

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[Msfitoy]

I used to do my own oil changes, no more, and I don't trust places like Jiffy Lube. It is dealer only now. The Ranger is a fair bit of work (for me) to do a home oil change. 1. Taking off the left wheel for access (or struggling around it), 2. Dealing with the plastic plugs that sometimes get damaged. 3. Removing and reinstalling skid plate 4. Buying the filter and oil. 5. Laying down protective oil splatter cardboard. 6. Disposing of old oil. 6. Getting the correct oil filter wrench if I can't get the old filter off by hand. For $120, it goes to the dealer (Autonation Ford). They use semisynthetic Motorcraft oil, rotate the tires, check transmission fluid, fill wiper fluid, top off brake fluid if necessary, check brake pads, replace plastic plugs if damaged with OEM plugs, clean up the mess, dispose of old oil and reset the oil change warning. Additionally, they probably make no mistakes as I might, and as the OP did. Everything done in one hour while I watch TV in their waiting room.

It would be worth the effort to set up a few small mods to enhance your DIY oil change experience...install a Fumoto quick open valve in place of the plug and attach a 1/2" x 10" long rubber hose to extend the end past the crash pan then there's no need to remove pan...you don't really need to remove the tire...I just cut off the fore most snap so there's only two to remove and tuck the flap under the brake hose...an extension with proper size oil filter cap serves for a quick removal...I use two drain pans...large one under the oil sump and a small one under the oil filter trough...

My sister lives in Scottdale...love that area...especially Carefree...

 

[RedlandRanger]

I used to do my own oil changes, no more, and I don't trust places like Jiffy Lube. It is dealer only now. The Ranger is a fair bit of work (for me) to do a home oil change. 1. Taking off the left wheel for access (or struggling around it), 2. Dealing with the plastic plugs that sometimes get damaged. 3. Removing and reinstalling skid plate 4. Buying the filter and oil. 5. Laying down protective oil splatter cardboard. 6. Disposing of old oil. 6. Getting the correct oil filter wrench if I can't get the old filter off by hand. For $120, it goes to the dealer (Autonation Ford). They use semisynthetic Motorcraft oil, rotate the tires, check transmission fluid, fill wiper fluid, top off brake fluid if necessary, check brake pads, replace plastic plugs if damaged with OEM plugs, clean up the mess, dispose of old oil and reset the oil change warning. Additionally, they probably make no mistakes as I might, and as the OP did. Everything done in one hour while I watch TV in their waiting room.

I will bet you they aren't really checking the trans fluid, as to do that properly would require it to get to temp and someone probably burning themselves getting the OEM dipstick out while hot. I know they probably check that off their list, but I would be shocked if they actually do it.

 

[JesseS]

One reason I always carefully clean the engine mating surface, easy to spot the stuck gasket, did it on a motorcycle once, but easy to notice all of the oil spraying on my legs.

 

[Radioman]

I will bet you they aren't really checking the trans fluid, as to do that properly would require it to get to temp and someone probably burning themselves getting the OEM dipstick out while hot. I know they probably check that off their list, but I would be shocked if they actually do it.

This.

 

[DaveT]

I will bet you they aren't really checking the trans fluid, as to do that properly would require it to get to temp and someone probably burning themselves getting the OEM dipstick out while hot. I know they probably check that off their list, but I would be shocked if they actually do it.

Well it was warmed up when I brought it in, and done within an hour. I did specifically mention the transmission fluid to the service advisor and he assured me they would check it, and when it was done he told me without my asking that the transmission fluid was normal. Sure, he could have lied, but I wanted to believe him. Perhaps next time I'll ask for a photo of the dipstick showing the oil. For cost of $55 plus tax for oil and filter along with the hassle of doing the work/cleanup, tire rotation, and disposing of the oil, the dealer price of $120 is a good deal to me.

 

[DaveT]

This.

That. Well, I'd rather have the dealer get burned hands than me.

 

[Radioman]

That. Well, I'd rather have the dealer get burned hands than me.

Dave, if having the dealer provide the service on your Ranger and your pleased with the outcome, that's great. No one is going to bad mouth you for doing so. I do wonder if the trans is really checked, but that is neither here nor there to me.

I'm still able to perform the service (at 78 years old) so I do so. I can get Mobile One synthetic oil and a Ford filter a bit cheaper than the dealer cost and I take the time while servicing to examine things under the hood and under the vehicle.

 

[RedlandRanger]

Well it was warmed up when I brought it in, and done within an hour. I did specifically mention the transmission fluid to the service advisor and he assured me they would check it, and when it was done he told me without my asking that the transmission fluid was normal. Sure, he could have lied, but I wanted to believe him. Perhaps next time I'll ask for a photo of the dipstick showing the oil. For cost of $55 plus tax for oil and filter along with the hassle of doing the work/cleanup, tire rotation, and disposing of the oil, the dealer price of $120 is a good deal to me.

I'm not knocking you for having your dealer do the service, just warning you that they almost assuredly are not checking the trans fluid. It is incredibly time consuming and difficult to do. I'd argue it would take as long to check the trans fluid as to actually do the oil change. In order to check the trans fluid "by the book", the trans needs to be at least 195 degrees which is not easy to do, especially in cold weather - it isn't just having the engine up to temp. Then there is the whole issue of the "dipstick" being in an incredibly inconvenient and tight space right next to the cat. Whoever designed that, without a regular dipstick should be fired.

I use Kirkland Synthetic (approved by our own retired Ford Engineer) with a Motorcraft filter. I can change the oil for about $30 in parts and am able to check other things at the same time. I always know it was done correctly.

 

[got3fords]

I used to do my own oil changes, no more, and I don't trust places like Jiffy Lube. It is dealer only now. The Ranger is a fair bit of work (for me) to do a home oil change. 1. Taking off the left wheel for access (or struggling around it), 2. Dealing with the plastic plugs that sometimes get damaged. 3. Removing and reinstalling skid plate 4. Buying the filter and oil. 5. Laying down protective oil splatter cardboard. 6. Disposing of old oil. 6. Getting the correct oil filter wrench if I can't get the old filter off by hand. For $120, it goes to the dealer (Autonation Ford). They use semisynthetic Motorcraft oil, rotate the tires, check transmission fluid, fill wiper fluid, top off brake fluid if necessary, check brake pads, replace plastic plugs if damaged with OEM plugs, clean up the mess, dispose of old oil and reset the oil change warning. Additionally, they probably make no mistakes as I might, and as the OP did. Everything done in one hour while I watch TV in their waiting room.

Major ditto right here. For all the same reasons. My dealer is only about 15 minutes from me.
And if you're retired and have all the time in the world, and have the proper space and tools, kudos. Mine is due and it is winter, and I have no garage, the driveway is dirty, so the dealer it is.

 

[twk]

One reason I always carefully clean the engine mating surface, easy to spot the stuck gasket, did it on a motorcycle once, but easy to notice all of the oil spraying on my legs.

Yes do that, every time.
I always look for dirt and damage there, and carefully wipe off that area clean. I guess not many people do that. And yes, I've peeled off a couple of gaskets. I guess I forgot to add a bit of oil to it.

And why do I forget to put a bit of oil... Never mind.

 

[Cmar]

I do too.
But I owned well used GM products that had no oil filters. They were optional (maybe where the 3,000 or 3 months got started?) as well as air cooled VWs with only a screen in the sump.
I also worked on and operated heavy equipment, some with multiple large filters all of which were easily changed pre filled.

Hah yes my brother had a VW fastback which I was surprised to see did not have an oil filter. And to make matters worse didn't actually hold all that much oil either. However I also remember it had a really short change interval. And I've had a number of mowers both push and ride on with Briggs Engines with no filters, which usually outlasted the mower they were bolted to.

 

[Cmar]

Well it was warmed up when I brought it in, and done within an hour. I did specifically mention the transmission fluid to the service advisor and he assured me they would check it, and when it was done he told me without my asking that the transmission fluid was normal. Sure, he could have lied, but I wanted to believe him. Perhaps next time I'll ask for a photo of the dipstick showing the oil. For cost of $55 plus tax for oil and filter along with the hassle of doing the work/cleanup, tire rotation, and disposing of the oil, the dealer price of $120 is a good deal to me.

No need for a photo, a dab of liquid paper on the nut will tell you what you need to know.

 

[Jhbryaniv]

While the location isn't the BEST, I've certainly had vehicles that had a MUCH worse location. Why do you think this location sucks? Just curious....

The absolute best location I've ever had was on one of our Saturns - it was a cartridge filter right on top of the engine - made for the easiest oil changes of any vehicle I've ever owned.

Our 2018 outback has the filter right up top. So nice and accessible. Almost like they want to make it easy.

On my '98 tacoma I had a oil filter relocation kit so I didn't have to screw with it underneath. Just hoped under pulled the plug, put the plug back, unscrewed the filter before filling with fresh oil, and replaced it.

Also, can we just address how quickly everyone jumps to a super aggressive cleaner to remove fresh oil? Seriously, brake cleaner?!?! Start mild first. try dish soap and water in a spray bottle, or a simple degreaser. Amazon sells tons of gallons jugs you can buy, and dilute to your desired strength. Something like this: Orange Degreaser Citrus Cleaner - 1 Gallon by 3D Auto Detailing Products https://a.co/d/f0bgabC

 

[DaveT]

No need for a photo, a dab of liquid paper on the nut will tell you what you need to know.

Absolutely. I tried that and tomorrow's market results suddenly appeared.

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