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HOWTO: rear shock install

silverflash

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This is just a little howto on how to replace your rear shocks on your 2019-2021 rangers. No jacking required!!

tools needed:
15mm 1/2" socket
1/2" ratchet
breaker bar
thread locker blue

optional tools:
torque wrench- setting = 52 ft lbs
jack

I am 6'1, 190 lbs, 51 years old, hike alot and don't lift weights- did not have to use a jack in this replacement.

I did lower and move out the way the spare tire. that provides alot more space to work and literally takes maybe 5 minutes to do. Be warned, the access hole for the lowering rod that comes in the jack kit is blocked by a plastic cover that protects a keyed lock. Flip open that cover, to the right of the license plate, and use your ignition key or mechanical key to unlock that and remove so that you can use the lowering rod to lower the spare.

drivers side rear:
1) using the 15mm socket with a breaker bar, loosen and remove the lower shock bolt. The nut is semi-captive meaning that it does not spin while you loosen the bolt but once the threads of the bolt leave the nut, it will fall. This is not a huge problem (the passenger side upper may be- read later).
2) remove the upper bolt with the 15mm socket- watch for falling nut!
3) get the new shock and with the upper part of the shock against a hard surface, compress it down a couple times.
4) apply locktite on the threads on the end of the bolt. install upper part of shock and install the original bolt, till it is flush with the hole that the nut will be over, - ford manual says to replace these bolts and nuts but i did not and i believe it's just a cya from ford. I did use loctite on them however.
5) grab the nut and slide up into the captive 3 sided square and hold there while you thread the bolt into it.
6) snug the bolt down but do not do final torque yet.
7) repeats steps 4 through 6 for the lower mount bolt with these additions:
a) you must put down your purse and push the shock up towards the upper mount and then install the bolt as the holes are lined up. This can be tricky but it wasn't too hard for me. I'm just your average middle aged guy.
8) torque both bolts to 52 ft lbs.

passenger side rear:
same as 1-8 above BUT the upper bolt/nut can be a bear because of the nut wanting to fall.

that upper mount area where the bolt is in, is right above the bracket that attaches to the frame so when that nut falls, it will get wedged in between the bracket and the frame.

i had no issues getting it out with my fingers and a screwdriver at different times where it fell, and i see nowhere that it can go where you could not get it.

all in all a very easy job to do. my truck was empty besides gas a few pounds in the bed. when i removed the shocks there was no vertical movement of the truck.

so no jacking needed if you can compress the shock by hand, but remove spare to make this job as easy as an oil change.

If you cannot compress the shock enough to meet the lower bolt holes, then you can jack the rear of the truck off the frame and that will expand the distance between the upper and lower mounting holes enough so you may not need to compress at all.

hope this helps..
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Big Blue

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If your a weakling with a tailgate damper or just old like I am, a 1" wide ratchet strap works well to compress the shocks to the right length to install.
 
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silverflash

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“…you must put down your purse”

killed me!

awesome write up, hope you like the upgrade.
Like night and day. I noticed that the fx4 shocks that i took off literally have kangaroos on them. Now i know why the fx4 is so bouncy. Obviously since the ranger was in australia so long since 2012, its designed more for the outback at high speeds rather than the run to the mall.
 
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silverflash

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Like night and day. I noticed that the fx4 shocks that i took off literally have kangaroos on them. Now i know why the fx4 is so bouncy. Obviously since the ranger was in australia so long since 2012, its designed more for the outback at high speeds rather than the run to the mall.
As an update, the stock fx4 shocks i took off had 8500 miles on them. New truck. I can easily compress them with one hand into a hard surface like the garage floor. The bilsteins seem to take about twice the force to compress when i compressed them before installing. Unless they loosen up from brand new, i think the fx4 shocks just compress too easily which explains why these fx4s are so bouncy. I no longer have that annoying bounce. As an added possible bonus, i think it took my slip joint bind thunk away. Havent felt it since and before the swap, i did every stop. It has been cold here though but not as cold as it was when it went away with the fx4 shocks still on. Time will tell.
 


jflogerzi

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This is just a little howto on how to replace your rear shocks on your 2019-2021 rangers. No jacking required!!

tools needed:
15mm 1/2" socket
1/2" ratchet
breaker bar
thread locker blue

optional tools:
torque wrench- setting = 52 ft lbs
jack

I am 6'1, 190 lbs, 51 years old, hike alot and don't lift weights- did not have to use a jack in this replacement.

I did lower and move out the way the spare tire. that provides alot more space to work and literally takes maybe 5 minutes to do. Be warned, the access hole for the lowering rod that comes in the jack kit is blocked by a plastic cover that protects a keyed lock. Flip open that cover, to the right of the license plate, and use your ignition key or mechanical key to unlock that and remove so that you can use the lowering rod to lower the spare.

drivers side rear:
1) using the 15mm socket with a breaker bar, loosen and remove the lower shock bolt. The nut is semi-captive meaning that it does not spin while you loosen the bolt but once the threads of the bolt leave the nut, it will fall. This is not a huge problem (the passenger side upper may be- read later).
2) remove the upper bolt with the 15mm socket- watch for falling nut!
3) get the new shock and with the upper part of the shock against a hard surface, compress it down a couple times.
4) apply locktite on the threads on the end of the bolt. install upper part of shock and install the original bolt, till it is flush with the hole that the nut will be over, - ford manual says to replace these bolts and nuts but i did not and i believe it's just a cya from ford. I did use loctite on them however.
5) grab the nut and slide up into the captive 3 sided square and hold there while you thread the bolt into it.
6) snug the bolt down but do not do final torque yet.
7) repeats steps 4 through 6 for the lower mount bolt with these additions:
a) you must put down your purse and push the shock up towards the upper mount and then install the bolt as the holes are lined up. This can be tricky but it wasn't too hard for me. I'm just your average middle aged guy.
8) torque both bolts to 52 ft lbs.

passenger side rear:
same as 1-8 above BUT the upper bolt/nut can be a bear because of the nut wanting to fall.

that upper mount area where the bolt is in, is right above the bracket that attaches to the frame so when that nut falls, it will get wedged in between the bracket and the frame.

i had no issues getting it out with my fingers and a screwdriver at different times where it fell, and i see nowhere that it can go where you could not get it.

all in all a very easy job to do. my truck was empty besides gas a few pounds in the bed. when i removed the shocks there was no vertical movement of the truck.

so no jacking needed if you can compress the shock by hand, but remove spare to make this job as easy as an oil change.

If you cannot compress the shock enough to meet the lower bolt holes, then you can jack the rear of the truck off the frame and that will expand the distance between the upper and lower mounting holes enough so you may not need to compress at all.

hope this helps..
Are you still using the stock fronts?
 

Stewthebassman

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6'1 194, keep fit and once I put the purse down it was a breeze! A little patience and contortionism required for the top of the passenger side. All in it took me an hour and a quarter. That includes getting out the owner's manual to figure out removing the spare tire. Actually that was good practice "just in case".

The spare tire was a good headrest while I was under the truck!

Thank you for this tutorial. I really am happy to have made the swap. I ordered the Bilsteins yesterday and they arrived today. What a difference!

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puckdodger

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I dropped the spare, figured I might as well check the air pressure in it and lube up the chain while I had everything loose. It was very roomy under there...
 

Whiplash

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I have done my rear shocks twice.... A little trick the 2nd time around that saved me from dropping and having to fish the top captured nut out...

I taped it in place before completely removing the shock mount bolt....One finger was all it needed to get the bolt threads aligned during the new shock install....
 

Muffin1

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wow, i was going to post a question about any tips on installing the rears, and saw this post (didn't even use the search function haha) tanks to OP and those who added info.
I'm going to do this tomorrow, the Bilsteins have the strap on them to stop from expanding, i only did shocks once before a long time ago and when i cut the strap my timing was off trying to get the shock eyelet aligned with the mount and get the bolt in before it expanded to much.
 
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Muffin1

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So i got them installed, and i was surprised when i opened the box to see there were no straps so i improvised and it worked fine, no issues installing it was pretty easy, i did use tape (gorilla black duct type tape to keep the upper nuts from falling out of position like others recommended.
I did need to pull back the plastic fender well on the pass side(by removing the two push pins) to get the tape on that upper nut, drivers side as reported by others here is even easier.
BTW i didn't see the need to drop the spare just my choice.
I took it for a quick spin on local streets, it's noticeably firmer but not jarring.
I'm hitting the highway this weekend so it will be the real test as to weather the 'wallowing' or 'floating' is gone.
In the near future i want to do the fronts with the 5100's adjustable height because i believe that shocks should be changed at all 4 points and i can take care of the nose dive look too
Thanks to OP and others who gave tips.

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9zero1790

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my new shocks have been sitting in the boxes for a couple months now... i may get around to doing the rear this weekend.
 

Progeny2021

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As previously noted, I paid my favorite shop to replace all four shock absorbers/struts with Bilstein 4600s, along with the requisite 4 wheel alignment. Not cheap but highly recommended. Driving to my daughter's home in the next several weeks to see how the 4600s handle the rough, unpaved roads around her area. Huge improvement on 'normal'(?) roads. $985 total out of pocket. Stock image.

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