HOWTO: rear shock install

[Stewthebassman]

That's correct! Now I know. I don't mind the time I spent, it's not a big deal.

Loving the new ride! Very much looking forward to setting up my trailer ?

What you also don't know is will the rear shocks that you just spent time changing out, fit on your new truck. They made some pretty significant changes to the 6G rear suspension. Specially the shock placement.

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[TJMarchand]

Sorry to bump up an old thread but can anyone help me put this flat piece back where it belongs? It fell out doing the passenger rear shock

 

[GTHAYS]

This is just a little howto on how to replace your rear shocks on your 2019-2021 rangers. No jacking required!!

tools needed:
15mm 1/2" socket
1/2" ratchet
breaker bar
thread locker blue

optional tools:
torque wrench- setting = 52 ft lbs
jack

I am 6'1, 190 lbs, 51 years old, hike alot and don't lift weights- did not have to use a jack in this replacement.

I did lower and move out the way the spare tire. that provides alot more space to work and literally takes maybe 5 minutes to do. Be warned, the access hole for the lowering rod that comes in the jack kit is blocked by a plastic cover that protects a keyed lock. Flip open that cover, to the right of the license plate, and use your ignition key or mechanical key to unlock that and remove so that you can use the lowering rod to lower the spare.

drivers side rear:
1) using the 15mm socket with a breaker bar, loosen and remove the lower shock bolt. The nut is semi-captive meaning that it does not spin while you loosen the bolt but once the threads of the bolt leave the nut, it will fall. This is not a huge problem (the passenger side upper may be- read later).
2) remove the upper bolt with the 15mm socket- watch for falling nut!
3) get the new shock and with the upper part of the shock against a hard surface, compress it down a couple times.
4) apply locktite on the threads on the end of the bolt. install upper part of shock and install the original bolt, till it is flush with the hole that the nut will be over, - ford manual says to replace these bolts and nuts but i did not and i believe it's just a cya from ford. I did use loctite on them however.
5) grab the nut and slide up into the captive 3 sided square and hold there while you thread the bolt into it.
6) snug the bolt down but do not do final torque yet.
7) repeats steps 4 through 6 for the lower mount bolt with these additions:
a) you must put down your purse and push the shock up towards the upper mount and then install the bolt as the holes are lined up. This can be tricky but it wasn't too hard for me. I'm just your average middle aged guy.
8) torque both bolts to 52 ft lbs.

passenger side rear:
same as 1-8 above BUT the upper bolt/nut can be a bear because of the nut wanting to fall.

that upper mount area where the bolt is in, is right above the bracket that attaches to the frame so when that nut falls, it will get wedged in between the bracket and the frame.

i had no issues getting it out with my fingers and a screwdriver at different times where it fell, and i see nowhere that it can go where you could not get it.

all in all a very easy job to do. my truck was empty besides gas a few pounds in the bed. when i removed the shocks there was no vertical movement of the truck.

so no jacking needed if you can compress the shock by hand, but remove spare to make this job as easy as an oil change.

If you cannot compress the shock enough to meet the lower bolt holes, then you can jack the rear of the truck off the frame and that will expand the distance between the upper and lower mounting holes enough so you may not need to compress at all.

hope this helps..

Old post, but thanks. GOOD information all in one place.

This is just a little howto on how to replace your rear shocks on your 2019-2021 rangers. No jacking required!!

tools needed:
15mm 1/2" socket
1/2" ratchet
breaker bar
thread locker blue

optional tools:
torque wrench- setting = 52 ft lbs
jack

I am 6'1, 190 lbs, 51 years old, hike alot and don't lift weights- did not have to use a jack in this replacement.

I did lower and move out the way the spare tire. that provides alot more space to work and literally takes maybe 5 minutes to do. Be warned, the access hole for the lowering rod that comes in the jack kit is blocked by a plastic cover that protects a keyed lock. Flip open that cover, to the right of the license plate, and use your ignition key or mechanical key to unlock that and remove so that you can use the lowering rod to lower the spare.

drivers side rear:
1) using the 15mm socket with a breaker bar, loosen and remove the lower shock bolt. The nut is semi-captive meaning that it does not spin while you loosen the bolt but once the threads of the bolt leave the nut, it will fall. This is not a huge problem (the passenger side upper may be- read later).
2) remove the upper bolt with the 15mm socket- watch for falling nut!
3) get the new shock and with the upper part of the shock against a hard surface, compress it down a couple times.
4) apply locktite on the threads on the end of the bolt. install upper part of shock and install the original bolt, till it is flush with the hole that the nut will be over, - ford manual says to replace these bolts and nuts but i did not and i believe it's just a cya from ford. I did use loctite on them however.
5) grab the nut and slide up into the captive 3 sided square and hold there while you thread the bolt into it.
6) snug the bolt down but do not do final torque yet.
7) repeats steps 4 through 6 for the lower mount bolt with these additions:
a) you must put down your purse and push the shock up towards the upper mount and then install the bolt as the holes are lined up. This can be tricky but it wasn't too hard for me. I'm just your average middle aged guy.
8) torque both bolts to 52 ft lbs.

passenger side rear:
same as 1-8 above BUT the upper bolt/nut can be a bear because of the nut wanting to fall.

that upper mount area where the bolt is in, is right above the bracket that attaches to the frame so when that nut falls, it will get wedged in between the bracket and the frame.

i had no issues getting it out with my fingers and a screwdriver at different times where it fell, and i see nowhere that it can go where you could not get it.

all in all a very easy job to do. my truck was empty besides gas a few pounds in the bed. when i removed the shocks there was no vertical movement of the truck.

so no jacking needed if you can compress the shock by hand, but remove spare to make this job as easy as an oil change.

If you cannot compress the shock enough to meet the lower bolt holes, then you can jack the rear of the truck off the frame and that will expand the distance between the upper and lower mounting holes enough so you may not need to compress at all.

hope this helps..

I know this is an old post, but the information in a few short paragraph was a great post. Thank you. I had everything handy and laid out before I even touched my truck.

 

[Chris M]

Old post, but thanks. GOOD information all in one place.

I know this is an old post, but the information in a few short paragraph was a great post. Thank you. I had everything handy and laid out before I even touched my truck.

He's right.
That passenger side top nut is destined to fall in the freaking gap in the frame.
Fished mine out with my fingers.

 

[GTHAYS]

He's right.
That passenger side top nut is destined to fall in the freaking gap in the frame.
Fished mine out with my fingers.

I used the tape trick as another owner posted.

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