I put a sock over mine because it tends to mist a bit. I change the sock every other oil change, beats buying their new filters..
No, I use Dr. Scholls “Oder Eaters”
Get a new bottle????After roughly two full years, I have filled my 750ml bottle with the crap from my catch can. Obviously most of it is water. So… now what lol
Figured I would re-post this here. Ended up ordering the crank case breather and stuck it on. Still plan on installing my UPR CC when the weather warms up.Got this guy installed. It will be interesting to see how it works. There is a little plastic ball inside the housing that seats flat when the valve is straight up and down. The ranger cap is at a very very slight angle so hopefully the ball will stay seated correctly. Stole one of my wife’s socks to cover the filter from other comments on here.
Side note, checked the oil and it was past the hatch marks to the top hole. Smelled like fuel still and the inside of the oem cap had a little milky residue. Oil change was done 600 miles ago and it was at the halfway point in the hash area right after the oil change.
All this catch-can talk has got me thinking. Why do we want to CATCH the blow by gas/oil/water mixture and have to worry about emptying it? Why not just vent it straight to the pavement going down the road? It's mostly water anyway. The amount of oil contained in the mixture is minute compared to the amount that vehicles regularly LEAK while driving down the road. Then just plug the inlet line that fed this crap to the top of the valves causing the carbon build-up. It seems to me that would produce a much cleaner fuel/air/burn mixture without mixing in those unwanted contaminants. What kind of warning light would I trigger if I did this you think?Get a new bottle????
I put a catch can on last week. 400 miles later and I poured this out. Only 400 miles.
I have always had great experience with their products. Their brake clean is the best. I plan to use there GDI cleaner at my next oil change and at every one after.
The EPA would never allow an automotive manufacturer to design a system that intentionally leaked oil and fuel onto the ground, no matter how small the amount. Aftermarket companies wouldn't be allowed to do this either, they would be fined very quickly and/or shutdown.
Justin, I completely understand and agree. You may have missed my point. What I commented on was making modifications to my OWN 2021 Ford Ranger and not what a manufacturer is allowed or not allowed to do. Why do I need to purchase a $200 catch can kit that needs emptying on a regular basis when I can vent it directly to the pavement, was my point. Like I said, the miniscule amount of oil I'd be discharging on the road would be negligible when compared to the amount that leaks every day out of poorly maintained vehicles. My question was would I cause any warning lights by doing it?
I’m no engineer but does the pressure make any difference? If you vent it to the ground, that air pressure is no longer in the closed system. I dunno if that even makes sense but it’s the only way I can convey my thoughts on it.
I asked UPR if I could install a drain tube on their CC and leave the drain tube open instead of closed and they said it would create a vacuum leak.
My thinking is when the piston goes down it creates the vacuum needed to draw air and fuel into the cylinder along with the contaminates we don't want that cause the carbon build-up. If I plug the top inlet to stop the crap from being sucked in, will they still be discharged through the lower outlet without vacuum? THAT, I don't know.
So many angsty teen memes to draw on.... 'how many times have I told you not to touch my socks, Mom!'Checked the sock on my crank case breather. It was a little wet to the touch and smelled like fuel. There was a little spittle around it where you can see its pushing through the thin sock. Gonna switch to a sweat band and see if that helps.
Absolutely you would trip a CEL, even disconnecting the clean side vent will trip a CEL
