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Who Here Has Done Their Own Brake Job?

Glocker

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I'm curious if anybody here has done a brake job on their trucks and if there were any special tricks required to complete the job. I ask because sometimes with my 2014 Mustang, with the electrically assisted braking, there is a requirement to purge air from the system using software. I shouldn't be cracking into the system on the Ranger so I shouldn't be introducing air into the lines. I'm just trying to arm myself with as much knowledge as I can so there aren't any surprises.

By the way, I ordered front and rear motorcraft pads from Rock Auto, and they make no distinction on their site about any differences in 4-wheel drive vs 2-wheel drive brake pads. But on the Tasca website, there was a callout on the brake pads that said they were not for the 4x4, but there wasn't any other information I could see regarding 4-wheel drive specific pads.
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wanted33

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That's a good question John. The last pad change I did was on an '06 Mustang. I've never thought about any changes in the newer systems, so I'm in for an answer also.
 

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I started watching that video an I'm a little surprised at the amount of rust on the control arm. I had a small amount starting on the cross member the skid plate mounts to an I hit it with some rust inhibitor an black paint.
 


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I'm curious if anybody here has done a brake job on their trucks and if there were any special tricks required to complete the job. I ask because sometimes with my 2014 Mustang, with the electrically assisted braking, there is a requirement to purge air from the system using software. I shouldn't be cracking into the system on the Ranger so I shouldn't be introducing air into the lines. I'm just trying to arm myself with as much knowledge as I can so there aren't any surprises.

By the way, I ordered front and rear motorcraft pads from Rock Auto, and they make no distinction on their site about any differences in 4-wheel drive vs 2-wheel drive brake pads. But on the Tasca website, there was a callout on the brake pads that said they were not for the 4x4, but there wasn't any other information I could see regarding 4-wheel drive specific pads.
I assume you’re replacing because of wear? How many miles do you have on your truck?
 
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Glocker

Glocker

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I assume you’re replacing because of wear? How many miles do you have on your truck?
I've got 19,242 miles on the truck. I think my rears wore fast because of the off roading I do, and the traction control kicking in on occasion in the slippery off road conditions.
 

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You dont need to purge any air , since you are doing pads and rotors, there are no special steps.

Just remove the pads, remove rotors, compress the pistons in with a c-clamp, install new pads and rotors.

No need to bleed brakes unless you're putting calipers on.
 

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I can almost promise you that you are going to need the rear piston retraction tool. You can rent them from most part stores.

The Mustangs don't have electric assisted braking, it's standard vacuum booster assisted hydraulic. However the TCS and Advance trac are tied to the ABS block and I'd image it's the exact same way with the Ranger. Normally the only time you'd need to computer cycle the ABS is if you've let the MC reservoir run dry while bleeding.

New pads don't require bleeding, but it's always good practice if you're going through the trouble installing new pads and rotors to make sure you have no air in the lines. You can bleed all four corners in less than 30 minutes with a helper.
 

DukeCanBuildit

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I assume you’re replacing because of wear? How many miles do you have on your truck?
Have you seen his posted pics? Man, he tears the pants off that thing off-road! ?
 

DT444T

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I can almost promise you that you are going to need the rear piston retraction tool.
You do. It CAN be done with a set of pliers, but save yourself the hatred and anger and rent the tool. It SUCKED.
 

DT444T

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I'm curious if anybody here has done a brake job on their trucks and if there were any special tricks required to complete the job. I ask because sometimes with my 2014 Mustang, with the electrically assisted braking, there is a requirement to purge air from the system using software. I shouldn't be cracking into the system on the Ranger so I shouldn't be introducing air into the lines. I'm just trying to arm myself with as much knowledge as I can so there aren't any surprises.

By the way, I ordered front and rear motorcraft pads from Rock Auto, and they make no distinction on their site about any differences in 4-wheel drive vs 2-wheel drive brake pads. But on the Tasca website, there was a callout on the brake pads that said they were not for the 4x4, but there wasn't any other information I could see regarding 4-wheel drive specific pads.
I've only done rears:

Pay VERY close attention to the orientation of the pads. There are inner and outer pads. Since the parking brake is integrated the piston has slots and the pad has dowel pins in it and they MUST LINE UP.

Also, there's bunches of fiddly little parts like springs and spacers for anti-rattle and whatever.

Honestly the rears are the worst I've ever done. Such a pain in the ass.

I did not have to do anything with the computer after I did the rears. Fronts are still good.
 
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Glocker

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I can almost promise you that you are going to need the rear piston retraction tool. You can rent them from most part stores.

The Mustangs don't have electric assisted braking, it's standard vacuum booster assisted hydraulic. However the TCS and Advance trac are tied to the ABS block and I'd image it's the exact same way with the Ranger. Normally the only time you'd need to computer cycle the ABS is if you've let the MC reservoir run dry while bleeding.

New pads don't require bleeding, but it's always good practice if you're going through the trouble installing new pads and rotors to make sure you have no air in the lines. You can bleed all four corners in less than 30 minutes with a helper.
When I wrote my post, I was having a severe mental block and I couldn't remember what the ABS block was. So I went with electrically assisted braking. HAHAHA I see that it looks like you track your car - have you done the remote GM clutch reservoir modification yet?
 
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Glocker

Glocker

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I assume you’re replacing because of wear? How many miles do you have on your truck?
I may actually only have 16,242 miles. My Ford Pass app says 19,242 and the email I just got from Ford with my vehicle report is reading 16,242.
 
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Glocker

Glocker

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Oh yeah - I've got access to the tool to turn the piston back in. I'm going to have help on this just because when I was young and dumb I made mistakes on my brakes and want to make sure this is right!
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