Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Leveling Shock Kit

[Frenchy]

Well darn. This changes the ride quality and kind of 'fakes' the lift. I had hoped the Eibachs/Bilsteins changed the geometry to 'fix' the rake.

Does that mean different/longer springs (progressive rate) need to be considered too, or am I back to looking at spacers?

I personally would not recommend spacers what so ever!!!

You can still run the Eibachs or Bilsteins with no major problem. As I have stated before Bilsteins are nice. Will the ride change from factory? Yes but it will be a change for the good. You will have better results from Bilsteins or Eibachs vs spacers.

Sponsored

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

I personally would not recommend spacers what so ever!!!

You can still run the Eibachs or Bilsteins with no major problem. As I have stated before Bilsteins are nice. Will the ride change from factory? Yes but it will be a change for the good. You will have better results from Bilsteins or Eibachs vs spacers.

I think he's talking about running the Bilstiens at stock height with spacers for lift. good idea.

 

[Frenchy]

I think he's talking about running the Bilstiens at stock height with spacers for lift. good idea.

I disagree. I would wather lift the front end with the collar raised vs installing a spacer. Why you might ask? You get more flexibility like such compared to stock and spacers.

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Don't know about others, just can't wait to get mine in. The rears seem solved. think Porpoise nailed the cause it, poor rebound damping. Rear is good and tight, front still loose and crappy! Looking forward to getting them on the truck.

 

[BowWow]

For the purposes of this application - a relatively small lift - there are two ways to lift your truck: add preload or use longer shocks/struts. Adding preload will stiffen the spring response, but allow flexibility in ride height. Want it higher, or stiffer? Crank up the preload. Lower or softer? Crank it back down. But note that if you want a softer ride you will lose the lift.

Longer shocks/struts will give more flexibility in spring rates, but you're stuck with the length of the shock. You can adjust the length of the shock/strut by buying longer struts, or by adding a spacer. But to change the spring rate you have to change the spring. It becomes a balancing act between the height of the lift and the quality of the ride. I feel I have the most flexibility at the best price by using adjustable shocks AND spacers.

On my Titan I used the Bilstein 5100s that have adjustable preload, left the spring perch in the stock position (no preload) and added a 3" spacer to the top of the shock. That gave me the softer stock spring rate, which I wanted, and the lift, which I also wanted. The ride was just like stock, with better damping. And the front of the truck was lifted 2.5". I could have moved the spring perch up, increasing the preload and making the ride stiffer, but the front of the truck would have been higher.

The downside of spacers is that you don't change the actual travel of the wheel, you just move it lower relative to the truck. You can still bottom out the shocks, but it will happen higher from the ground. Which brings up one more point: if you use spacers to lift the truck, you should also install longer bump stops, or put spacers under the stock ones. Why? Because if your suspension travel is the same, but it's now, say, 3" higher, the shock will bottom out before even hitting the bump stop. This is not good for the shock - at all. If you take a good hit your shocks can break, usually at the bottom mount. So don't forget to modify your bump stops if you're using spacers!

With my Ram, which uses a coil spring and a separate shock mounted inside the spring, I leveled it by getting longer springs and longer shocks. The longer springs gave me the lift I wanted (and a much better spring rate), and the longer shocks gave me the damping and extra travel I needed. No need to change the bump stops, because the shocks were longer.

 

[geophb]

Did anyone measure the extended length of the eibach pro or the bilstein 5100 front shocks? are they longer or the same as the factory ones?

Edit: To clarify, I am wondering about the bare shock length.

 

[Racket]

For the purposes of this application - a relatively small lift - there are two ways to lift your truck: add preload or use longer shocks/struts. Adding preload will stiffen the spring response, but allow flexibility in ride height. Want it higher, or stiffer? Crank up the preload. Lower or softer? Crank it back down. But note that if you want a softer ride you will lose the lift.

Longer shocks/struts will give more flexibility in spring rates, but you're stuck with the length of the shock. You can adjust the length of the shock/strut by buying longer struts, or by adding a spacer. But to change the spring rate you have to change the spring. It becomes a balancing act between the height of the lift and the quality of the ride. I feel I have the most flexibility at the best price by using adjustable shocks AND spacers.

On my Titan I used the Bilstein 5100s that have adjustable preload, left the spring perch in the stock position (no preload) and added a 3" spacer to the top of the shock. That gave me the softer stock spring rate, which I wanted, and the lift, which I also wanted. The ride was just like stock, with better damping. And the front of the truck was lifted 2.5". I could have moved the spring perch up, increasing the preload and making the ride stiffer, but the front of the truck would have been higher.

The downside of spacers is that you don't change the actual travel of the wheel, you just move it lower relative to the truck. You can still bottom out the shocks, but it will happen higher from the ground. Which brings up one more point: if you use spacers to lift the truck, you should also install longer bump stops, or put spacers under the stock ones. Why? Because if your suspension travel is the same, but it's now, say, 3" higher, the shock will bottom out before even hitting the bump stop. This is not good for the shock - at all. If you take a good hit your shocks can break, usually at the bottom mount. So don't forget to modify your bump stops if you're using spacers!

With my Ram, which uses a coil spring and a separate shock mounted inside the spring, I leveled it by getting longer springs and longer shocks. The longer springs gave me the lift I wanted (and a much better spring rate), and the longer shocks gave me the damping and extra travel I needed. No need to change the bump stops, because the shocks were longer.

You've spoken to what I am suspecting. I doubt there are many - if any longer strut bodies to put on 5G Rangers, and can only imagine how complicated getting progressive rate springs for such a mod would be.

I'm leaning now towards a compromise- I've found solid steel half inch spacers and I hope another inch and a half pre-load compression on stock springs won't sacrifice too much comfort while decreasing the rake that visually bothers me at the same time not upsetting towing aspects.

That would leave perhaps sway bar bushings up front the other handling mod. And tires.

 

[BowWow]

You've spoken to what I am suspecting. I doubt there are many - if any longer strut bodies to put on 5G Rangers, and can only imagine how complicated getting progressive rate springs for such a mod would be.

I'm leaning now towards a compromise- I've found solid steel half inch spacers and I hope another inch and a half pre-load compression on stock springs won't sacrifice too much comfort while decreasing the rake that visually bothers me at the same time not upsetting towing aspects.

That would leave perhaps sway bar bushings up front the other handling mod. And tires.

I'll be running the 5100s with a 3" spacer and a 1" block in the back. It's the only way to keep the softer spring setting and get the lift with Bilsteins.

Eibach builds the longer strut. I've circled how they do it - basically by extending the shock body. It adds around 3" to the ride height. I see no difference between this and adding a spacer at the top of the strut. In fact, I think a spacer may be stronger than the rod on the Eibach. The Eibach kit seems pretty reasonably priced, too.

 

[Racket]

I'll be running the 5100s with a 3" spacer and a 1" block in the back. It's the only way to keep the softer spring setting and get the lift with Bilsteins.

Eibach builds the longer strut. I've circled how they do it - basically by extending the shock body. It adds around 3" to the ride height. I see no difference between this and adding a spacer at the top of the strut. In fact, I think a spacer may be stronger than the rod on the Eibach. The Eibach kit seems pretty reasonably priced, too.

This makes the Eibach look like a more performance and cost effective choice for us street folk.

 

[Nevada_Bob]

The Bilstein 5100 for the Ranger has adjustable ride-height.

I don't think you need spacers.

Here's the description from their website:

"Bilstein B8 5100 (Ride Height Adjustable) shock absorbers are designed for trucks and SUVs with a front OE coilover style suspension. Multiple snap-ring grooves in the body allow for different spring seat positions, providing 0-2.75 inches of front lift with OE springs (depending on application). The monotube shock absorbers feature a 46mm digressive piston a with self-adjusting deflective disc valve setting. Bilstein B8 5100 (Ride Height Adjustable) shock absorbers provide increased wheel travel and improved handling. Utilizing a B8 5100 (Ride Height Adjustable) shock absorber is the easiest way to level out your vehicle."

Here's a link: Bilstein 5100 2020 Ford Ranger

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Well, got them installed, after they arrived after work. 4.5 hours. and i have a good supply of tools and 30 yrs wrenching. Yes you can clock the springs after they are installed, at least on the stock setting. chanlleng was making sure the spring stayed in the lands while loosening the compressors.
i used a average 20V Dewalt to compress the springs, non impact. Dewalt was hot and full compression was at the working limmit of the drill. It swings around and you have to brace it on the strut body. I have impacts, and air, but this was smother and it worked. though i don't think i would reccomend it, for health and safety. Being new, Ball joint and Tie rod end came right out, had to whack and hit the top to unseat 2 of them i think. 2nd side went faster, esp the spring change over. Front at 35.5" rear at 38.5". drove around the block, will test them out tomorrow. As Porpoise was saying, the rebound damping on the FX strut was vituruly non existtant. I compressed the Bilsteins, and rebound damping was nice and slow, The FX shocks/struts just basically flew back open.
I'm optimistic.
(I feel so bad about the FX shocks, i won't even sell them. They have a date with the dump.)

 

[landiscarrier]

Well, got them installed, after they arrived after work. 4.5 hours. and i have a good supply of tools and 30 yrs wrenching. Yes you can clock the springs after they are installed, at least on the stock setting. chanlleng was making sure the spring stayed in the lands while loosening the compressors.
i used a average 20V Dewalt to compress the springs, non impact. Dewalt was hot and full compression was at the working limmit of the drill. It swings around and you have to brace it on the strut body. I have impacts, and air, but this was smother and it worked. though i don't think i would reccomend it, for health and safety. Being new, Ball joint and Tie rod end came right out, had to whack and hit the top to unseat 2 of them i think. 2nd side went faster, esp the spring change over. Front at 35.5" rear at 38.5". drove around the block, will test them out tomorrow. As Porpoise was saying, the rebound damping on the FX strut was vituruly non existtant. I compressed the Bilsteins, and rebound damping was nice and slow, The FX shocks/struts just basically flew back open.
I'm optimistic.
(I feel so bad about the FX shocks, i won't even sell them. They have a date with the dump.)

Im sure you’ll be happy with it! Yup my FX shocks went in the trash as well. I have the Eibach’s and compressing the stock springs was a job! And I did it with a ratchet and sweat! Lol.

 

[geophb]

Well, got them installed, after they arrived after work. 4.5 hours. and i have a good supply of tools and 30 yrs wrenching. Yes you can clock the springs after they are installed, at least on the stock setting. chanlleng was making sure the spring stayed in the lands while loosening the compressors.
i used a average 20V Dewalt to compress the springs, non impact. Dewalt was hot and full compression was at the working limmit of the drill. It swings around and you have to brace it on the strut body. I have impacts, and air, but this was smother and it worked. though i don't think i would reccomend it, for health and safety. Being new, Ball joint and Tie rod end came right out, had to whack and hit the top to unseat 2 of them i think. 2nd side went faster, esp the spring change over. Front at 35.5" rear at 38.5". drove around the block, will test them out tomorrow. As Porpoise was saying, the rebound damping on the FX strut was vituruly non existtant. I compressed the Bilsteins, and rebound damping was nice and slow, The FX shocks/struts just basically flew back open.
I'm optimistic.
(I feel so bad about the FX shocks, i won't even sell them. They have a date with the dump.)

Did you measure or happen to notice if the bilstein front shocks were longer than factory ones? The uninstalled/uncompressed length. Or did you happen to grab a picture of them side by side?

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Did you measure or happen to notice if the bilstein front shocks were longer than factory ones? The uninstalled/uncompressed length. Or did you happen to grab a picture of them side by side?

I'm sorry, i did not. Ride height is same as it was stock though, i measured that before.

Im sure you’ll be happy with it! Yup my FX shocks went in the trash as well. I have the Eibach’s and compressing the stock springs was a job! And I did it with a ratchet and sweat! Lol.

I think if i had to use a ratchet i would of been driving to the tire store. I tried to turn them further with a ratchet after they were compressed with the drill, and don't see how you could compress the spring further by hand. I was just able to get the spring compressed enough for the lowest setting, which is fine, because that's what i wanted, softest ride. you>>

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

OK, took the Truck out to the rough road with the RR Tracks, It works. Gone is the kick in the Kidneys, I was doing 50 with no problems. The ride is Firm, but comfortable. soaks up small to medium bumps with no problem. Larger ones are good to, Truck feels great. So the problem is def the Shocks on these trucks, Can only speak for FX susp, the springs are good. If you have the FX Susp you need to do this or the Eibach upgrade. I no longer am in terror of small raod bumps! FX suspension, what a joke- hard valving on the compression, baically no valving on the rebound. Ford should be recalling them, some one installed the valves backwards!

Sponsored