Bilstein 6112 leveling kit

[Sign1941]

How are you liking your 6112 Bilsteins? How do they ride on road? I'm currently running 5100s all around, but they ride really harsh and I'm trying to decide if I should stick with Bilstein or go with the Fox 2.0 setup. I use my truck as daily driver and would like it to ride a little softer on street, and easy to medium off-roading trails a couple of times a month. Anyways any feedback on the 6112s is appreciated, haven't been able to find any feedback about them specifically on the Rangers.

I’m liking them so far. I have not had a chance for any off reading yet. I did not use the stick springs and do feel the street is a comfortable drive. As always this is a 4x4 truck and I’m not expecting a drive like my Fusion was.

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[Wasatch]

Bumping this thread. Just put an order in! I'm excited to get the 6112/5160 combo on the truck.

How's everyone's experience with their setups so far?

 

[Wasatch]

What notch did everyone use? With the anticipation of a winch/bumper, I'm thinking of setting mine at the top (location #7).

 

[Sign1941]

I love the setup. I used the one notch below the tallest setting.

 

[Fawnbuster]

My 5100s ride great. By adding a 1 inch spacer at the top and only using a bit over an inch on the shock setting we didn't preload the spring as much so it didn't make a harsh ride. I still have an inch I can add to the bottom but waiting until I add new tires to see how much garage clearance I have left. Using the 5100 or any shock for the full level lift definitely makes the oem spring rougher.

 

[Samsquanch]

I think I am going to go with this setup as well after much back and forth. I really think some of the leveling kits out there end up giving the truck at least the illusion of reverse rake which I can’t stand. I want to keep a little rake while bringing the front up to improve clearance. I plan to only set mine at an inch to see how I like it. Should be a mostly level ride while persevering just a hint of rake which I think looks really good.

 

[Wasatch]

Install completed.

Went 6112's on the top notch, gave around 2.5-2.75'' of front end lift. It will probably settle to 2.5''.

Coming from a Toyota background, the install process was a little different. a few install notes:

-Undoing the 34mm UCA nut is a MUST! I couldn't imagine not having the CV free. A lot of folks complain their CV is 'stuck' or wont come free.... Undo the nut and give it some whacks with a brass punch and hammer so you don't scratch it.

-Mark first, then loosen your LCA cam bolts, and lower the LCA to remove the old and fit the new strut in place. My alignment tabs did not move at all in this process, and tightened them back up when the tires are back on the ground.

-I could not get the lower strut bolts to align at first, so I stuck 2 screwdrivers in the holes a guides and jacked up with LCA. once the strut had some pressure on it, I was able to feed the bolts through. You'll notice I installed mine upside down as the CV was blocking me from putting them through top-down.

-I also installed SPC UCA's. I've had them on every truck I've owned. They're super durable and can take a beating (and also offer 80 degrees of ball joint range). install was very easy. I did them last once the new struts were in place.

Rear I have an AAL and 5160:

Once I get a few miles on it, I'll report back with some feedback.

 

[NvrFinished]

Install completed.

Went 6112's on the top notch, gave around 2.5-2.75'' of front end lift. It will probably settle to 2.5''.

Coming from a Toyota background, the install process was a little different. a few install notes:

-Undoing the 34mm UCA nut is a MUST! I couldn't imagine not having the CV free. A lot of folks complain their CV is 'stuck' or wont come free.... Undo the nut and give it some whacks with a brass punch and hammer so you don't scratch it.

-Mark first, then loosen your LCA cam bolts, and lower the LCA to remove the old and fit the new strut in place. My alignment tabs did not move at all in this process, and tightened them back up when the tires are back on the ground.

-I could not get the lower strut bolts to align at first, so I stuck 2 screwdrivers in the holes a guides and jacked up with LCA. once the strut had some pressure on it, I was able to feed the bolts through. You'll notice I installed mine upside down as the CV was blocking me from putting them through top-down.

-I also installed SPC UCA's. I've had them on every truck I've owned. They're super durable and can take a beating (and also offer 80 degrees of ball joint range). install was very easy. I did them last once the new struts were in place.

Rear I have an AAL and 5160:

Once I get a few miles on it, I'll report back with some feedback.

I'm interested in this setup. With new UCA's, do you know your net droop travel? Did you break even with stock droop, gain, or still loose droop travel as a result of the lift?

 

[jmurph]

Also interested in going these or the king 2.5s. Think I would toss a can of steelit on these to keep the nice for longer. Looking forward to hearing the feedback.

 

[Wasatch]

I'm interested in this setup. With new UCA's, do you know your net droop travel? Did you break even with stock droop, gain, or still loose droop travel as a result of the lift?

The 6112's are the same length as OEM (when holding them up side-by-side). I don't think I gained any travel downward (droop). What I wanted to make sure was at the highest setting, the UCA ball joints wouldn't bind up through the suspension cycle sitting a few inches higher than stock.

The other advantage of SPC UCA's is adjustability in camber and caster. I was about to set them at +1 caster (I.E push the tire forward a little) in preparation for 33's to give the tire a little more clearance when the time comes. It also helps the truck track down the road a little better. Check out the document here to see more:

https://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25670-INS_WEB.pdf

 

[Lawdawg]

Install completed.

Went 6112's on the top notch, gave around 2.5-2.75'' of front end lift. It will probably settle to 2.5''.

Coming from a Toyota background, the install process was a little different. a few install notes:

-Undoing the 34mm UCA nut is a MUST! I couldn't imagine not having the CV free. A lot of folks complain their CV is 'stuck' or wont come free.... Undo the nut and give it some whacks with a brass punch and hammer so you don't scratch it.

-Mark first, then loosen your LCA cam bolts, and lower the LCA to remove the old and fit the new strut in place. My alignment tabs did not move at all in this process, and tightened them back up when the tires are back on the ground.

-I could not get the lower strut bolts to align at first, so I stuck 2 screwdrivers in the holes a guides and jacked up with LCA. once the strut had some pressure on it, I was able to feed the bolts through. You'll notice I installed mine upside down as the CV was blocking me from putting them through top-down.

-I also installed SPC UCA's. I've had them on every truck I've owned. They're super durable and can take a beating (and also offer 80 degrees of ball joint range). install was very easy. I did them last once the new struts were in place.

Rear I have an AAL and 5160:

Once I get a few miles on it, I'll report back with some feedback.

Just installed mine but with Camberg since I have the cast spindles.

 

[Filthy McGnarly]

Once I get a few miles on it, I'll report back with some feedback.

Just installed mine but with Camberg since I have the cast spindles.

Any updates from either of you how they handle? Thanks!

 

[Wolfman00]

so how are you all liking the 6112/5160 on the ranger?

 

[TontoRanger]

@Wasatch and @Lawdawg

there aren’t many posts from people who have installed the 6112s and 5160s reporting on the ride. Would you like to give us some feedback?

 

[BlacknYellow]

Install completed.

Went 6112's on the top notch, gave around 2.5-2.75'' of front end lift. It will probably settle to 2.5''.

Coming from a Toyota background, the install process was a little different. a few install notes:

-Undoing the 34mm UCA nut is a MUST! I couldn't imagine not having the CV free. A lot of folks complain their CV is 'stuck' or wont come free.... Undo the nut and give it some whacks with a brass punch and hammer so you don't scratch it.

-Mark first, then loosen your LCA cam bolts, and lower the LCA to remove the old and fit the new strut in place. My alignment tabs did not move at all in this process, and tightened them back up when the tires are back on the ground.

-I could not get the lower strut bolts to align at first, so I stuck 2 screwdrivers in the holes a guides and jacked up with LCA. once the strut had some pressure on it, I was able to feed the bolts through. You'll notice I installed mine upside down as the CV was blocking me from putting them through top-down.

-I also installed SPC UCA's. I've had them on every truck I've owned. They're super durable and can take a beating (and also offer 80 degrees of ball joint range). install was very easy. I did them last once the new struts were in place.

Rear I have an AAL and 5160:

Once I get a few miles on it, I'll report back with some feedback.

Nice set up! Where can i grab a set of the 6112/5160 combo for my 2023 ford ranger xl?

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