Uhhmmm... need new brakes at 7100 miles??? Guess so...

[PltFX4]

My 2019 Lariat FX4 SuperCrew, in theory, should not need new rear pads and rotors at 7100 miles. I was changing them to some newer fancy rotors and pads just because. But glad I did. Take a look:

So, obviously, a 3.5 year old truck with 7100 miles sits a lot which is the root cause of the issue. But given the back side center groove and thin inboard pad, I'd say the parking brake is not releasing as it should. (This is driver side rear... ran out of daylight thus passenger side will get done tomorrow... hope it's not as bad.)

Also first experience with a "screw in" caliper piston.... not a fan.

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[Markubis]

Wow....that's crazy.

Funny you should say that. I took mine in for inspection last month and in NH they check more than they did in MA. The tech said I had a lot of travel on my brake pedal and he thought my slides may be sticking on the rear brakes. I'm wondering if your slides may have gotten corroded and caused them to not release.

 

[JohnnyO]

The rear brake caliper sliders have a tendency to stick. Happened to mine, the rear inner pads were shot but the outers were still pretty good.

 

[got3fords]

Dafuq?

 

[Glocker]

The same exact thing happened to me. I've never seen a rotor as tortured as my driver's rear rotor in my life. The heat caused it to turn so many different colors. Imagine this - it's early 2020, the truck is still relatively new on the market, and there are no parts for it! According to the parts guy at the Ford dealership, I found what was possibly the last set of rotors in the South East. All of the auto parts stores told me it would be several weeks before they could get a replacement in for me. And I'd opinine that my other pads had about 20,000 miles of life left on them.

 

[MountainGoat]

Did you need the special tool to screw it in?

I thought it was great that I wouldn't have to deal with drum brakes on the rear and FORD found a way to make the disc brakes even more of a PITA!

 

[Glocker]

Did you need the special tool to screw it in?

I thought it was great that I wouldn't have to deal with drum brakes on the rear and FORD found a way to make the disc brakes even more of a PITA!

Yes. The rear caliper requires the tool that presses as it turns, and the left and right turn in opposite directions (if I remember correctly). Luckily, one of my good friends purchased one from Harbor Freight, and it was a pretty decent tool. I was worried at first because that driver-side caliper wouldn't press in at all, initially. But it did break free eventually, and I haven't had any issues with it since.

 

[PltFX4]

Dafuq?

Exactly!!

Did you need the special tool to screw it in?

I thought it was great that I wouldn't have to deal with drum brakes on the rear and FORD found a way to make the disc brakes even more of a PITA!

Yep. the tool is CHEAP on Amazon (~$24 Disc Brake Caliper Compressor Wind Back Tool 24pc Professional Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set ). It arrived here this morning... it is cheap... threads on the screws are very rough... probably last a few brake jobs... will use axle grease on the thread hopefully last a little longer.

Found a YouTube video that shows how to do it without the tool but that would only be a Plan B if the tool was not readily available and cheap (PS: you can spend ~$150 or so for a "good" one but hope NOT to have to do this again any time soon).


The one other thing that is "odd" is the contact patch of the pad to the rotor (both front and rear rotors). There is about a 1/2" ring at the top and bottom of the rotor where it is clear the pad is not contacting the rotor. It is worse on the rear rotor than front but still present. It's like one needs to do a 60mph to zero HARD stop every so often to really "bed" (wear/grind) the pads down and polish the whole rotor surface.

Finally, it was shocking how "rusted" on the rotors were to the hubs, again front and rear. PB Blaster and a large hammer finally persuaded them to come off. IMO, at each tire change PB Blasting the rotor/hub matting point is in order. The install of the new rotors will get a coat of "brake grease" behind and on the hub lip.

 

[MountainGoat]

Exactly!!



Yep. the tool is CHEAP on Amazon (~$24 Disc Brake Caliper Compressor Wind Back Tool 24pc Professional Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set ). It arrived here this morning... it is cheap... threads on the screws are very rough... probably last a few brake jobs... will use axle grease on the thread hopefully last a little longer.

Found a YouTube video that shows how to do it without the tool but that would only be a Plan B if the tool was not readily available and cheap (PS: you can spend ~$150 or so for a "good" one but hope NOT to have to do this again any time soon).


The one other thing that is "odd" is the contact patch of the pad to the rotor (both front and rear rotors). There is about a 1/2" ring at the top and bottom of the rotor where it is clear the pad is not contacting the rotor. It is worse on the rear rotor than front but still present. It's like one needs to do a 60mph to zero HARD stop every so often to really "bed" (wear/grind) the pads down and polish the whole rotor surface.

Finally, it was shocking how "rusted" on the rotors were to the hubs, again front and rear. PB Blaster and a large hammer finally persuaded them to come off. IMO, at each tire change PB Blasting the rotor/hub matting point is in order. The install of the new rotors will get a coat of "brake grease" behind and on the hub lip.

Rust isn't from your area in MN? Salted roads and the like? I had tons of rust when I lived on the east coast, to the point where my exhaust fell off and my brake hardlines blew open under braking.

 

[Kristina]

I would say it’s normal for a 3,5 years and 7100 miles. I suggest to check front brakes too, if everything is moving and discs-pads are ok.

 

[PltFX4]

Rust isn't from your area in MN? Salted roads and the like? I had tons of rust when I lived on the east coast, to the point where my exhaust fell off and my brake hardlines blew open under braking.

Yes, we use salt and a fair amount of it... so I drive to do short errands on the wet, snowy, slushy roads; brakes never get hot enough to "burn" it off; then get home and park it for a week or so... gives that brine time to work on that bare, exposed rotor... rust city... even in cold (slightly above freezing... not sure about below freezing) the chemical reaction takes place, even at a slower rate, it has time to do it's thing.

As to east coast, I grow up in the east and was a NYS auto safety inspector... saw lots of that kind of carnage... not to mention the bodies of the cars just rusting away at hugely accelerated rates... (this was in the '70s.)

 

[PltFX4]

I would say it’s normal for a 3,5 years and 7100 miles. I suggest to check front brakes too, if everything is moving and discs-pads are ok.

Yes, the fronts are being replaced... that what started this whole episode.

 

[Kristina]

Yes, we use salt and a fair amount of it... so I drive to do short errands on the wet, snowy, slushy roads; brakes never get hot enough to "burn" it off; then get home and park it for a week or so... gives that brine time to work on that bare, exposed rotor... rust city... even in cold (slightly above freezing... not sure about below freezing) the chemical reaction takes place, even at a slower rate, it has time to do it's thing.

This is it. That way same work waits in few years again. I would drive her every time until brakes are warm and not being shy while braking, those surfaces need to work.

 

[SFB]

My 2019 Lariat FX4 SuperCrew, in theory, should not need new rear pads and rotors at 7100 miles. I was changing them to some newer fancy rotors and pads just because. But glad I did. Take a look:

So, obviously, a 3.5 year old truck with 7100 miles sits a lot which is the root cause of the issue. But given the back side center groove and thin inboard pad, I'd say the parking brake is not releasing as it should. (This is driver side rear... ran out of daylight thus passenger side will get done tomorrow... hope it's not as bad.)

Also first experience with a "screw in" caliper piston.... not a fan.

I have already had to have mine done at 50K front first then rear a few months later. I had an Escape (2006) and an Edge (2012) I changed both of them to Brembo and never regretted it. Including Rotors

 

[maxbottomtime]

Oddly, i've gotten by with some needle nose to get the calipers compressed. press & turn.

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