Taking to shop for MPG issues; what to check?

[Grumpaw]

Good thought. Reputable shop said no alignment needed -- already good. I took it to a shop to double check.
It might be worth doing it again though since it's been 5k miles since then.


Never do any extra squeezes.

I never squeeze.....only shake it...

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[Utope]

Ah, to clarify: too high of a level. Sorry for being unclear. I haven't checked the fuel % though. I just see the oil level continues to rise past the top dipstick hole, regardless of how much highway I drive (and despite really long trips).

This seems like a pretty damning piece of information. You should not have the oil rising. I would ask the dealership to look at the injectors per other users on this forum. Likely that gas is just dripping into the oil pan.

 

[RDJTX]

How many times do you squeeze the handle to top off when you fill up? I hear bad things can happen if you do that too much. Myself, after the first time it stops, I wait a few seconds, squeeze it slightly for one more auto stop and hang it up.

first cut off and quit. no extra squeezes at all.

 

[got3fords]

first cut off and quit. no extra squeezes at all.

It seems the first cut off is because of all the bubbles, I can hear them and wait until they subside to give it one more squeeze and call it quits. But I might try your method. It would be little difference I think.

 

[RDJTX]

It seems the first cut off is because of all the bubbles, I can hear them and wait until they subside to give it one more squeeze and call it quits. But I might try your method. It would be little difference I think.

I started doing that because I read in a tech article that it was bad juju. To be honest I had to look for something similar because I couldn't remember the details https://www.motor1.com/news/298622/stop-fueling-up-pump-off/

 

[Gizmokid2005]

The one extra squeeze until shutoff isn't generally a problem, it's the fill until you can almost see gas that's the problem. That tends to fill your EVAP/vapor canister and causes havoc on your emissions systems. That's why most places just suggest first click and leave it. It doesn't hurt your tank to not fill it completely, but it can hurt your system to overfill.

Generally first click, wait 30s, and a click again is not going to be harmful though.

 

[Ranger Danger]

Some Ranger owners have experienced premature wear on rear pads, indicating brakes are dragging. That would lead to decreased MPG.

I'm at 30,900 to be exact with my 2019. I went into the dealer for an oil change and they told me the rear brakes are down to 1MM on the inside pads... I asked them since when do rear pads wear faster than the front? Front were in great shape I was told and that it's common now for rear brakes to burn out quicker and they don't know why..I smell BS. I can vouch my E-Brake was not on or at issue, though I did notice a drop in MPG after placing new tires on, they are Mickey Thompson Baja Legend EXP LT rated and exact same size as OEM.. I would say about 2 weeks or a month later I went from 24MPG to 20MPG all the time, that has been the case since October 2022. I'm now on the hunt before getting my pads replaced on what is going on.

More threads on this...

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/rear-inner-brake-pads-smoked-at-28k.21847/page-2

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/inner-rear-brake-pads-burning-up.8162/

 

[Ranger Danger]

I wanted to provide an update here on the rear brakes and what many of us view as premature wear. I'm told that YES FORD used much thinner pads and rotors out back which answers the issue beyond I feel anything related to the parking brake or traction control being a culprit. If you stay with OEM it will be the same setup so one option is looking into beefier brake kits for the rear.

I can say still I have had a trouble free ownership from 9/2019 and 31K overall until the surprise with the rear brakes.

 

[GreyAreaRanger]

So I have only had my 19 Ranger for a couple weeks now but with any vehicle achieving significantly less than rated mpgs (I would say 2-3 mpg than EPA rating) check common items.

You checked the brakes with a thermal camera but did you look at the pads physically? Could be a sticking caliber that causes the brakes to not release 100% on time when you let off the brake pedal and get on the accelerator. Visually looking and measuring the pad thickness will tell you if this is happening. Bonus ensure the e brake isn't pulled just one notch above completely relaxed ( my 19 Ranger won't show the brake light for the one notch)

Replace the spark plugs as they're cheap and relatively easy to do as one of the factory plugs may not be 100% in spec but not bad enough to misfire.

Fuel in oil and you haven't had them look at it yet? This would be number one for me as the fuel system is measuring how much fuel it is moving.

Tire pressures that I have seen in most newer trucks is at ~40 psi not 35, this would be the cheapest check but won't account for all of the mpg difference you are seeing from the epa. AT tires are also known to be less efficient than regular street tires.

Check fluids in trans, rear end and engine. If any are overfilled, it would have to work harder to push through the extra fluid with each rotation (unless you added a pan/cover that keeps it at factory level (height) with extra capacity)

Is the fan clutch working properly? If it is constantly engaged, I'm sure that'll hurt mpg

Accessory belts at appropriate tautness?

Percentage of ethanol in the gas? Here in my part of Texas is up to 10% . Ethanol is less efficient than gasoline and will get you less mpgs. My 2014 Silverado had a rating on the door label for a different epa rating for e85 that was significantly less than regular gasoline. (I should have kept that truck, would still be driving it today if I had)

I am sure there are a few things more I can think of that can affect mpg but chances are you need to check through a combination of them. I personally would check into why there is fuel in my oil and correct that first as my engine can't burn it in the oil nor lubricate itself properly if the oil isn't the correct viscosity. Fuel in oil isn't supposed to be a thing nor is a new engine supposed to burn a quart in 5k miles (I know you didn't mention burning oil but all the manufacturers pretend that is normal for some reason until it is out of warranty).

 

[got3fords]

Is the fan clutch working properly? If it is constantly engaged, I'm sure that'll hurt mpg

Accessory belts at appropriate tautness?

How about the alternator clutch thingy? If the belt is bouncing like crazy at idle, might be bad.

 

[GreyAreaRanger]

How about the alternator clutch thingy? If the belt is bouncing like crazy at idle, might be bad.

Fair point, inspect all the pulleys in addition to the fan clutch. Any which of them can cause enough resistance to drag down fuel efficiency.

 

[jblc]

How about the alternator clutch thingy? If the belt is bouncing like crazy at idle, might be bad.

Good idea; but that looks normal.

 

[jblc]

Fair point, inspect all the pulleys in addition to the fan clutch. Any which of them can cause enough resistance to drag down fuel efficiency.

They all seem normal when looking at it running (as other vehicles), but how could I tell if the fan clutch itself is causing an issue? Wouldn't I hear or feel anything?

 

[jblc]

Percentage of ethanol in the gas? Here in my part of Texas is up to 10% . Ethanol is less efficient than gasoline and will get you less mpgs.

I'm in Cali, so ethanol is mandatory in gas. But other Cali members (who also use the same gas) get far better mpg than myself, so gas isn't the issue. Per my earlier posts i've also tried a few tanks of all the octanes, and mpg got worse the higher octane I used.

AT tires are also known to be less efficient than regular street tires.

I got this mpg straight from factory tires. Other members with more aggressive tires also getting better mpg than me.

Replace the spark plugs as they're cheap and relatively easy to do as one of the factory plugs may not be 100% in spec but not bad enough to misfire.

Plugs looked in excellent condition.

Bonus ensure the e brake isn't pulled just one notch above completely relaxed ( my 19 Ranger won't show the brake light for the one notch)

The '21 does alert, and the brake is always down.

You checked the brakes with a thermal camera but did you look at the pads physically?

If they were stuck, a thermal camera would definitely show it They'd heat up like crazy, as there would be much friction needed to reduce mpg. What would physical inspection reveal that the camera wouldn't?

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