I have hulled many trailers with a lot of different configurations. I don't like addon sway devices, I have seen trailers flip with them. I do recommend a WDH with sway control built into it. Here's a helpful link to some good info about hitch and sway. I hope you find it useful. How Equal-i-zer Works - Equal-i-zer® Hitch (equalizerhitch.com)
Suspension is a little soft (I like it that way) Not sure what load range tires came stock on your truck. Probly not E's. / 10PR, so maybe pump rear tires up to max inflation pressure. With the trailer you may find the wandering calms a bit.
Sorry RP...re-read your post, but even considering mpg, I can't think of any regular sized travel trailer (not the little R Pods) that would come in under 55 sq feet in area. The smaller rigs that are 7 feet wide are still 8 feet or more in height. Mine is gonna come in at 80 sq feet.
If you just measure the box itself, my camper is 7 ft wide, and a shade over 7 ft tall. So 49 square feet, and some of that hidden behind the truck
The more I think about the measurements, I think we're both right in a way.
The only real place the frontal area affects is fuel mileage. The side area is what really affects handleing. Thats where winds and traffic affect you the most. As a side note, frontal area is the total area expose to a direct head wind. So, it just take the high of your trailer from the ground including ac and multiply by the width. Not even a Rpod falls under the 55 sqr ft number. Travel trailets are big bricks being pulled through the air. 60 to 65 seems to be the sweet spot between mileage and not getting run over or causing road rage on the freeway. Over that and you milage goes south exponentually. Weight doesn’t seem to make a big difference as long as you within the ratings.
What is so different about this than what I said? It also says the the chart shows the maximum TRAILER FRONTAL AREA,which is what the calculation I gave is.Ford describes it differently and identifies it as the vehicle and trailer.
I never said a WDH was REQUIRED to tow the maximums. Only that in my opinion it will give you a better towing experience. You are always able to do what ever you want.Ford also states that a WD hitch is not required.
I am sure it can assist you in certain circumstances, but they say you can tow the max amount without needing one.
I'm no trucker, but I'll give my two cents. I use my '20 FX4 S-Crew to tow a 1-axle TT that's 20ft long, 3500 dry, and 450 tongue weight. I use the basic EAZ-lift WDH (800/8000lb) and friction sway bar that came used with the trailer. I too experience the pull-in/push-away sensation when big trucks pass on the freeways at speed (about 65mph for me). I think this is mainly due to the fact that my full rig, completely loaded, still weighs less than 10,000lbs. yet catches a lot of wind. I believe the WDH helps alleviate the "lightening" of the front wheels so as to maintain steering control, and the sway bar, of course helps keep the tail from wagging the dog when those big vehicles pass. I find it helps if I know they're coming and just keep my distance within the lane... definitely think the sway bar helps though.
This is begining to make more sense. The dealer did not do you any favors with this hitch setup. One of the worst things you can do is tow with the trailer high in the front. You need a hitch bars with more drop. Not uncommon with Rangers high rear end. The trailer should be level or slightly nose low when towing. Yes you may need to remove washers to adjust the bar angles, but first you need to get the hitch hight correct. I still think you will be better off with the 6000 pound bars also, for your weights. Get the hitch manual and go through the setup procedure set by step. You should be able to get the bars on the step brackets easily by using the tongue jack to lift the back of the truck with the trailer coupled.
I would stick to 6000 lbs bars. I have the same hitch, and use the second lowest drop setting on my stock height Ranger. Although my trailer might be higher clearance than the Wolf Pup? You want the trailer as close to level as possible when hitched up.
That's just the nature of the beast with a travel trailer getting pushed by the air pressure from a big rig passing you. It's probably a bit worse with a single axle vs double axle trailer. It startled me too the first few times it happened. I am now in the habit of checking the rear-view mirror every so many seconds or so to prevent being surprised.
