Scary towing experience

[Jimmy07]

You don't even need a WDH to pull an R-Pod with your Ranger.
Simply get it set-up right without it, then (as an option) consider adding a single friction anti sway device for a little added stability. (about $60)

Yea, I been told that would be good enough set up. But being new to towing, I went with WDH anyway. Might give it a try, since sway bars are real cheap and hitch head much lighter.

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[Gil-galad]

You don't even need a WDH to pull an R-Pod with your Ranger.
Simply get it set-up right without it, then (as an option) consider adding a single friction anti sway device for a little added stability. (about $60)

I tow an R-Pod 179 (~3500 lb loaded) with my '21 Lariat. Frankly, I would not want to tow it without my Curt 6000/600 WDH along with its companion friction anti-sway bar. Sans WDH might be able to handle the trailer by itself but who goes camping with an empty truck bed? In my case, the combination of tongue weight and truck payload, even when comfortably within the GCWR value, dictates the WDH to avoid sagging.

Regarding the sizing of WDH spring bars, it seems the RV dealerships are happy to pass on grossly oversized/overrated bars to their customers. When massive spring bars are mismatched to lightweight trailers, they can pass on a lot of stress to the A-frame when driving through a gully or dip in the road (say, at the end of a steeply sloped driveway). In worst case scenarios the A-frame and trailer just can't take it...

 

[Floyd]

I tow an R-Pod 179 (~3500 lb loaded) with my '21 Lariat. Frankly, I would not want to tow it without my Curt 6000/600 WDH along with its companion friction anti-sway bar. Sans WDH might be able to handle the trailer by itself but who goes camping with an empty truck bed? In my case, the combination of tongue weight and truck payload, even when comfortably within the GCWR value, dictates the WDH to avoid sagging.

Regarding the sizing of WDH spring bars, it seems the RV dealerships are happy to pass on grossly oversized/overrated bars to their customers. When massive spring bars are mismatched to lightweight trailers, they can pass on a lot of stress to the A-frame when driving through a gully or dip in the road (say, at the end of a steeply sloped driveway). In worst case scenarios the A-frame and trailer just can't take it...

Well I can't speak for your set up or what you carry in the box, but an R-Pod properly loaded would be no challenge at all for my 2WD SuperCab . The 1600+ payload leaves lots of margin for tongue weight and a fully loaded box.
I do understand from others here at 5G that the 4WD has a rear suspension better suited for off road than for towing?
My 2WD SuperCab allows the entire 750 # rated tongue weight without WDH.
The R-Pod should be about half that, properly loaded.

I do agree that if a WDH is insisted upon for the common R-Pod that it should be the lightest one available.
All that being said... and with all due respect for your particular circumstances and opinion, I do not see the need for a WDH for a Ranger/R-Pod combo that is anywhere near normal.

Of course I carry bicycles and not Motorcycles or Four wheelers.

CAVEAT!!
I just discovered that "R-Pod" now makes 25ft trailers using the same R-Pod name... some of which are becoming regular Bulgenobiles!
My comments where meant to refer to the normal sized (earlier?)R-Pods.
Every manufacturer seems to get threefootitis at some point!
The R-Pods with which I am familiar are the earlier, lighter, models.
Perhaps, I should withdraw my comments, but I thought it best to clarify them instead.

 

[Big Blue]

I do agree that if a WDH is insisted upon for the common R-Pod that it should be the lightest one available.
All that being said... and with all due respect for your particular circumstances and opinion, I do not see the need for a WDH for a Ranger/R-Pod combo that is anywhere near normal.

Of course I carry bicycles and not Motorcycles or Four wheelers.

CAVEAT!!
I just discovered that "R-Pod" now makes 25ft trailers using the same R-Pod name... some of which are becoming regular Bulgenobiles!
My comments where meant to refer to the normal sized (earlier?)R-Pods.
Every manufacturer seems to get threefootitis at some point!
The R-Pods with which I am familiar are the earlier, lighter, models.
Perhaps, I should withdraw my comments, but I thought it best to clarify them instead.

While agree with your assesment of the rangers towing capacity without a WDH. And I liked your use of term "insisted upon" instead of "required"
And this is true of any Ranger with a receiver hitch. There are a couple of considerations you are not accounting for.

First, GRAWR, this is the Gross Rear Axle Weight Rating. You must weight your completely loaded, as traveling, setup to get this value. Second is the towing experience. A WDH does not change any of the Rangers tow ratings and the weight of the hitch assembly must be included in the tongue weight. But, it does allow you to adjust the loading of your axles. Even though the rear end does not sag much, any tongue weight does reduce the loading on your front axle. Depending on how much, it can affect steering, handling and braking.

Now to the second point, the towing experience. Towing a travel trailer really does require some kind of sway control in its hitch setup. This has a much to do with the size and wind load on the trailer as it does the weight, maybe more. While you can add a friction sway bar to a standard receiver hitch, and this will help. This is not my personal preference for sway control. Most WDHs incorporate an internal sway control system that is much more consistent and repeatable than a simple sway bar.

Between the weight distributing function and the builting sway control the WDH allows your truck and trailer to work together as a unit when hit with gusty winds or encountering larger vehicles at speed. This creates more safe and comfortable towing experience.

I pull a Rpod 191 with my Ranger. It weighs about 4200 pounds loaded. I use a Husky Centerline hitch with 600 pound rated bars, the lightest available. Using over rated bars causes the verticle connection between the tow vehicle and the trailer to be too stiff, causing an uncomfortable and bouncy ride.

My personal reccomendation is that any travel trailer with a frontal area at or above the reccomended for the Ranger (50 square feet) use a WDH. If for nothing else but the towing experience. Especially on longer multi-day travels. It's no fun having to setup after a day long stressful drive.

Sorry for the long post, but if you have paid the dollars for a travel trailer and want to enjoy it spend a few extra dollars and put a proper hitch on it. Infrequent cargo hauling is an entirely different situation.

 

[Floyd]

I do respect your conclusions and have no doubt that your set up works well for you.
However, I have accounted for all considerations and have simply reserved a WDH for when it is needed to run level,and enhance balance, handling, and safety.

I can't compare my experience to yours, but having extensive experience towing with light trucks, SUVs, and Vans I simply have needed a WDH for only one application for my own use.
That was a large enclosed trailer with a G-Production racecar, including spares, tools and pit bikes.
Even our open car trailer was well balanced and level without a WDH.

I have spent the dollars for a travel trailer, equipped it with a proper hitch and to date have towed it something like 90 thousand miles. That is in addition to owning well over two dozen other travel trailers, car trailers, utility trailers and even car dollies.

The Ranger is a very stable platform for light trailers. A WDH can certainly be a useful tool to enhance its towing ability when needed.
Please do not infer that I am somehow opposed to WDHs, I 'm not.

 

[WOADKIL]

I do respect your conclusions and have no doubt that your set up works well for you.
However, I have accounted for all considerations and have simply reserved a WDH for when it is needed to run level,and enhance balance, handling, and safety.

I can't compare my experience to yours, but having extensive experience towing with light trucks, SUVs, and Vans I simply have needed a WDH for only one application for my own use.
That was a large enclosed trailer with a G-Production racecar, including spares, tools and pit bikes.
Even our open car trailer was well balanced and level without a WDH.

I have spent the dollars for a travel trailer, equipped it with a proper hitch and to date have towed it something like 90 thousand miles. That is in addition to owning well over two dozen other travel trailers, car trailers, utility trailers and even car dollies.

The Ranger is a very stable platform for light trailers. A WDH can certainly be a useful tool to enhance its towing ability when needed.
Please do not infer that I am somehow opposed to WDHs, I 'm not.

Floyd: totally agree with you on the Ranger's capability for towing the "lite weight" RPODs.

You are ditectly adding around 100lbs to the tongue weight by adding the WDH.

I did add airbags on the back of my 1/2 ton F150, but basically to keep the truck level and headlights aimed properly when towing.

Everyone should do what makes them comfortable, but pen and paper shows a WDH is not necessary for a 4,200 lb trailer.

Enjoy!

 

[aslusers]

I looked up the specs for the WolfPup 16HE, and it is well within the area that the Ranger can tow.
I looked at pics of the 16HE, and being a single axle trailer it will be a bit "squirrily" on windy roads and when being passed by a large vehicle, either passing you or coming at you. Just the "nature of the beast". When being passed by a large vehicle, even a trailer being towed by a heavier truck will still exhibit being "sucked" over a bit....everyone who tows has felt it.
I just have one issue with what your dealer did...he went way over as far as the hitch is concerned...me personally, I would have gone with a hitch rated around 6000 lbs. 8000 lb bars seem a bit "stiff" and won't flex enough to do a proper job of weight transfer. Also, a stiff set up won't allow the rig to 'flex'.
When properly set up, the bars should have a slight curve/bend in them....I'm almost willing to bet that when your rig is hooked up, the bars are straight, which means the tongue weight is always being transfered to the front of youe truck...almost like the entire truck/trailer combo is under constant tension.
If it was me, I would see if the dealer has a set of 6000 bars he could let you try (only difference in hitches weight ratings are the bars....the hitch heads are the same) on a trip, and if he does, make sure. the hitch head is set up right as far as height. A bit hard to explain, but if you go to ETrailers web site there is a lot of info on properly setting up a hitch properly. That company is the best and most knowledgeable on hitches.

That is my thought as well. 6000 bars would be very appropriate.

 

[HAMMERTIME]

I have a 2020 Ranger XLT Sport and pull a 21 ft TT with tandem axles and loaded weight of 6000 lbs.
My first trip out I was all over the road due to a bad dealer set up. Re-set it myself per the Husky WDH instructions and it made a big difference. Get the instructions and follow them to do your set up. Watch trailer loading, keep 15% of trailer weight on the tongue. Run tires at marked air pressure and use a sway control. I did a 6000 km trip last summer with this set up and no issues.

 

[SKULLZONE]

I bought a Wolf Pup 16HE Saturday. It weights 3500ish empty with 420 TW according to FOREST River.
The dealer installed a E2 WDH, with 8000 lb bars for some reason, and lowered the L brackets down all the way.
Left there and went straight to the campground. Every time a truck passed us, it saved like we were getting sucked into his lane, and the rear of the truck seemed to randomly dart around. It didn't bounce around, which was good.
I have a 2021 FX2, and I didn't pump the tires up any, I did when we left coming home. It helped some but not alot.
I am thinking that I need to look at the WDH adjustment to see if it's way off.
Or is this just how towing a single axle trailer with the Ranger will always be?
If so, I may be camping in my yard alot.

 

[SKULLZONE]

I bought a Wolf Pup 16HE Saturday. It weights 3500ish empty with 420 TW according to FOREST River.
The dealer installed a E2 WDH, with 8000 lb bars for some reason, and lowered the L brackets down all the way.
Left there and went straight to the campground. Every time a truck passed us, it saved like we were getting sucked into his lane, and the rear of the truck seemed to randomly dart around. It didn't bounce around, which was good.
I have a 2021 FX2, and I didn't pump the tires up any, I did when we left coming home. It helped some but not alot.
I am thinking that I need to look at the WDH adjustment to see if it's way off.
Or is this just how towing a single axle trailer with the Ranger will always be?
If so, I may be camping in my yard alot.

 

[Old Red Replacement]

Do research and check your setup , it must be wrong.

Check truck and trailer tire presssue , go 38/65 psi.

I have bigger trailer 18RJBBL toy hauler and
Only get a little push around trucks with a Blue Ox Sway Pro. 750 lb spring bars, 9 chain links, more expensive but better WDH , IMO, good luck.
https://www.google.com/search?q=e2+wdh+setup&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

 

[Grumpaw]

you obviously have a large frontal area, not sure where it lays on the recommended 55sqft
how much did your fuel mileage suffer pulling that giant block?

Everyone seems to be fixated on the magic "55 sq feet" frontal area, but in reality most travel trailers are between 7 ft on the smaller units to 8 feet wide on the larger units, and most will be between 7 and 8 feet or higher.
Pretty much any of the 20-30 foot units will be around 60-80 sq ft of area.
It just comes back to common sense towing, experience of the driver, and being a safe driver while towing.
Rig we are buying is easily 8 feet wide and almost 10 feet tall, so I've busted the "55".

 

[ExplorerRich]

I bought a Wolf Pup 16HE Saturday. It weights 3500ish empty with 420 TW according to FOREST River.
The dealer installed a E2 WDH, with 8000 lb bars for some reason, and lowered the L brackets down all the way.
Left there and went straight to the campground. Every time a truck passed us, it saved like we were getting sucked into his lane, and the rear of the truck seemed to randomly dart around. It didn't bounce around, which was good.
I have a 2021 FX2, and I didn't pump the tires up any, I did when we left coming home. It helped some but not alot.
I am thinking that I need to look at the WDH adjustment to see if it's way off.
Or is this just how towing a single axle trailer with the Ranger will always be?
If so, I may be camping in my yard alot.

 

[J Krutsch]

I'm not expert by any means but it seems like your WDH isn't adjusted correctly. That and a single axle trailer will sway more then a double but it should be more stable than it is now. Steve @Grumpaw knows a lot more about these and will hopefully see this and give you more advice.

One thing to keep in mind is when you go to adjuest the E2 hitch, you need to buy all new nuts, and maybe bolts, EVERY TIME. Through the adjustment process I tried reusing one, once on a few mile test run. The nylon locknut siezed up and was a real bitch to get back off. Took a 5' breaker bar extention and about an hour for both nuts.

 

[drvred]

I ordered a set of 6000 lb bars.
When you weigh the rig, do you have the bars hooked up, or in the back of the truck

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