Remote Transmission Dip Stick Aftermarket Support?

[tnewcomb6370]

any pictures or part numbers of the oil fill tube for us newbees?

Check out the video on page 118 I think. Walks you through the whole process on everthing.

Sponsored

 

[redone17]

Install was a breeze. Cracking the plug was pretty dang easy from the wheel well with a long swivel head ratchet. Honestly, the hardest part for me was threading on the locknut because I wanted to avoid the u-nut here in NY. They’ll be throwing salty brine all over the roads any day now.

Two concerns - one might be nothing and I’m overthinking it. But, that wire loom - even bent downwards like the new video suggests still sits between the aluminum and the MBS bracket. It’s not pinched - but, it’s sitting there. The pictures in the instructions make it seem like that wire to the backside has more slack and sits under and away from the dipstick tube. Mine is pretty taught and not much room for adjustment.

Also, stock dip stick cold was at the diamond above 4 and MBS dipstick cold is showing below the diamond between 4 and 5. I’m going to assume I should have wiped the factory stick and double checked it. But…alas, I didn’t think to do that. That being said according to MBS - my fluid is super low.

Thoughts?

 

[The Last Ranger]

Install was a breeze. Cracking the plug was pretty dang easy from the wheel well with a long swivel head ratchet. Honestly, the hardest part for me was threading on the locknut because I wanted to avoid the u-nut here in NY. They’ll be throwing salty brine all over the roads any day now.

Two concerns - one might be nothing and I’m overthinking it. But, that wire loom - even bent downwards like the new video suggests still sits between the aluminum and the MBS bracket. It’s not pinched - but, it’s sitting there. The pictures in the instructions make it seem like that wire to the backside has more slack and sits under and away from the dipstick tube. Mine is pretty taught and not much room for adjustment.

Also, stock dip stick cold was at the diamond above 4 and MBS dipstick cold is showing below the diamond between 4 and 5. I’m going to assume I should have wiped the factory stick and double checked it. But…alas, I didn’t think to do that. That being said according to MBS - my fluid is super low.

Thoughts?

I put a piece of bike tube rubber aroung the wire loom because I'm an over kill guy, most likely not needed but I have it there anyway. Over kill is how I operate, with most of my endeavors/purchases.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Same 90-947 wrench, it opens wider than 1". Haven't tried on 1-1/8", but that's what it measures. Has metric scale on one side, SAE on reverse.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-6-in-MaxSteel-Adjustable-Wrench-90-947/203710898

Wow a combination crescent wrench and calipers ?

 

[Friday yet?]

That I will do.

If I'm going to do this myself, I need to make sure I don't break something else in the process.

Ahem. Same thoughts over here too.

 

[redone17]

Alright, took it for a spin (not nearly up to full operational temps) for 10 miles (but, under 50). It’s at the top of the 4. Assuming that will drop a bit more when at temp.

I’m honestly stumped on why it appeared so low on the MBS stick when it was initially checked cold. I’ll check again tomorrow morning.

 

[JesseS]

Ahhhh, yes.....
Everyone who has let a clip, jet, nut, bolt, slip out of your fingers and slip down the carb, raise your hand !!!
Then you hear the "tinkle tinkle tinkle" of it bouncing down to rest on top of a piston !!!
Ask me how I know !!!

OMG!!! I was rebuilding the top end of a 421 tri-power and installing Weber side draft with progressive linkage when I dropped a c-clip into the intake (where was that rag!). Had to pull the intake manifold back off to get to it. (this was way before bore scopes)

 

[Blue Streak]

Install was a breeze. Cracking the plug was pretty dang easy from the wheel well with a long swivel head ratchet. Honestly, the hardest part for me was threading on the locknut because I wanted to avoid the u-nut here in NY. They’ll be throwing salty brine all over the roads any day now.

Two concerns - one might be nothing and I’m overthinking it. But, that wire loom - even bent downwards like the new video suggests still sits between the aluminum and the MBS bracket. It’s not pinched - but, it’s sitting there. The pictures in the instructions make it seem like that wire to the backside has more slack and sits under and away from the dipstick tube. Mine is pretty taught and not much room for adjustment.

Also, stock dip stick cold was at the diamond above 4 and MBS dipstick cold is showing below the diamond between 4 and 5. I’m going to assume I should have wiped the factory stick and double checked it. But…alas, I didn’t think to do that. That being said according to MBS - my fluid is super low.

Thoughts?

Someone may correct me but I believe that is overfull. Low would be 6 or 6.5 on the stix the way Ford has the # scale, when the fluid gets to operating temp it comes up to the point between 4 & 5 I believe 4.5 is where it should be normal temp.

 

[Msfitoy]

I wouldn't do anything, fill or remove, until you understand what you're reading, what temperature, running or not running...this is so easy to mess up...be very careful....

 

[TheFixer253]

For anybody dropping into this topic who's interested in a dipstick.

Go ahead and leave a post here stating you want one.

But I hope to have enough inventory soon to just put up a link here instead of a list.

Thank you.

Please sign me up for one of your dipstick kits.
Thanks.

 

[LM3929]

I would like one as well

LM3929

 

[redone17]

I wouldn't do anything, fill or remove, until you understand what you're reading, what temperature, running or not running...this is so easy to mess up...be very careful....

I’ve read about this transmission extensively at this point. I’m not adjusting until I can get a solid read after a long drive. But, I was confused as to why the cold levels were so different.

But, correct me if I’m wrong - the cold levels should be around 2-3 (but not an exact measurement) and when it’s hot and the fluid is pumped to the rest of the trans is when it should measure the ideal 4.5 - at least that is my understanding.

 

[Msfitoy]

I’ve read about this transmission extensively at this point. I’m not adjusting until I can get a solid read after a long drive. But, I was confused as to why the cold levels were so different.

But, correct me if I’m wrong - the cold levels should be around 2-3 (but not an exact measurement) and when it’s hot and the fluid is pumped to the rest of the trans is when it should measure the ideal 4.5 - at least that is my understanding.

The cold reading was created by Youtuber mech as an alternative to the dangers of "hot" read...I have not ever consider that technique as accurate as OEM recommendation to read while running in full operating temperature...hence, the sole reason for the start of this thread and the creation of this product by MBS...cold reading is unnecessary now that we have this dipstick...I'd just use 4.5 at the final benchmark read while "hot running" at full temp of 200F+...

 

[Fitzmotor]

This is where you set yourself back, if you were to try and look at the stock stick fluid level, you would need to wipe it and check it several times for an accurate reading.

If you look, you have fluid all the way up the stick, the diamonds at the 1 have fluid in them, the fluid just got thicker lower down on the stick.

Just know... The replacement stick is accurate to 1/16th of an inch, it is actually more like spot on, unless someone fights removing the stick from the shipping material or shipping damage and it's changed, it's a plug and play replacement.

I have done the calibration test probably 70+ times, out of those I have done the hot calibration test at least 25 times.

That's where I drive the truck WITH THE NEW STICK! get it fully hot, remove the new stick with the TRUCK RUNNING, immediately pop it into the calibration fixture, verify the stick marks are correct to the fixture, then with it STILL RUNNING I remove the trans adapter and check the fluid level with the stock stick to verify it matches the extended stick.

It was through this testing I discovered the hose expansion effect, if you were to do the same test backwards (which is how I was doing it in the beginning) drive truck, check stock stick hot, install extended stick, compare levels, the extended stick reads .080" different, that is how much the hose grows at operating temperature.

So I had to add in the .080" in the calibration factor when matching the stick to the hose, it took me a bit to figure it out the stick/hose temp expansion factors and adjust the assembly so it's correct hot.

That's why you see in the notes, the cold check will be about 1/16" off until it warms up, I should not get so specific here, other stick builders just got a freebie data point.

The wire loom has been so different on all trucks, if it routes around the side and under the dipstick and it is not strained, it will be fine.

You can gain a little slack where it comes out of the loom and at the clip, the wires are somewhat flexible in the tape, with it warm not cold, you can gently wiggle and pull to make that short section of loom a little longer, the tape around the clip will give a little also.

I'm glad the install went well overall, like said above, understand what you are doing when it comes to checking it hot, it is one of the more difficult vehicles to check transmission fluid on, dipstick aside, just the up to temp process is tough in cooler climates.

 

[Grumpaw]

The cold reading was created by Youtuber mech as an alternative to the dangers of "hot" read...I have not ever consider that technique as accurate as OEM recommendation to read while running in full operating temperature...hence, the sole reason for the start of this thread and the creation of this product by MBS...cold reading is unnecessary now that we have this dipstick...I'd just use 4.5 at the final benchmark read while "hot running" at full temp of 200F+...

I believe there is one cold reading that is necessary, especially when changing out the pan to a new deep pan AND a new filter....
If, like me, your pumping the old fluid out from the OE pan, when cold, and also installing a new filter, it would be nice to get a ball park # of qts to use to fill a COLD trans with a new deep pan AND a filter...
Remember, when changing the filter your gonna have fluid left in it, so when installing a new filter, you need to know how much fluid to add to bring it up to a level the will submerge the new filter......you don't want to start to drive if the fluid in the pan is to low.
I have read in several posts that the member added 9 qts to a deep pan and new filter....which seem about right, figuring 6 qts from the old OE pan, a qt that replaced the fluid in the old filter, and around 2 qts for the xtra capacity of the deep pan==9 qts.

Sponsored