Redarc Tow Pro Elite Install

Blue Streak

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A friend of mine has a 2020 ranger and by coincidence he hooked up a trailer for the very first time the day before I went for my RV. He was kind of going nuts on the knob and eventually it calibrated for him blu/green/blue/green. I looked in the forum for the correct way to get this thing going and I found the video that basically said connect it up to a trailer and go. It will calibrate itself. This is why I'm wondering WTF? The instructions on this thing are whacked. Does the calibration do anything more than learn the direction of travel?
A friend of mine has a 2020 ranger and by coincidence he hooked up a trailer for the very first time the day before I went for my RV. He was kind of going nuts on the knob and eventually it calibrated for him blu/green/blue/green. I looked in the forum for the correct way to get this thing going and I found the video that basically said connect it up to a trailer and go. It will calibrate itself. This is why I'm wondering WTF? The instructions on this thing are whacked. Does the calibration do anything more than learn the direction of travel?
The way I understand is it does exactly that. What ever position you mount the controller it needs to orient itself to foward movement while braking. If no trailer is hooked up it still calibrates but you see no lights. That's my take on it. Got mine hooked up, did some driving then tested my 7 pin with the test light & all seems to be functioning properly. And yes the remote control does light up with the test light. Have not pulled a trailer yet.
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Jedadiah

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I installed a liberty instead of the elite. The light behind the button is perfectly visible during the day. I wonder if Redarc would replace the switch if they were contacted about the light being too dim. I don't think it's normal.
 

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I installed a liberty instead of the elite. The light behind the button is perfectly visible during the day. I wonder if Redarc would replace the switch if they were contacted about the light being too dim. I don't think it's normal.
I did fill out a survey they sent me & the asked for comments. I did tell them what I did with the fiber optics. I will see if I get a response from them, if not maybe I will check.
 

jdjeff

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The way I understand is it does exactly that. What ever position you mount the controller it needs to orient itself to foward movement while braking. If no trailer is hooked up it still calibrates but you see no lights. That's my take on it. Got mine hooked up, did some driving then tested my 7 pin with the test light & all seems to be functioning properly. And yes the remote control does light up with the test light. Have not pulled a trailer yet.
Well then it is possible that whatever my buddy did the day before may have inadvertently put his into calibrate mode. I'm 99.9% sure mine is working as it should.
 

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Yes, being the button push happy friend, I must've played with it as I was doing double taps, etc. But it was working for me too just fine. So I'm thinking yours is too.
 


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Installing mine next week

did you pull the whole headliner down? (Do you have a window?)

Any other tips?
I did the OEM Redarc install last weekend. Not fun but it is done.

One thing that threw me off mid-install was I did not have a T50 Torx driver/bit to remove the rear driver seatbelt (it needs to be removed to remove the adjoining trim panel). I had to run to Home Depot for it. I had other, smaller, Torx bits but nothing that large. Just something to check before you have your truck pulled apart.

Otherwise, the install is a huge PITA, but you can do it. I did break one plastic trim piece (front sil cover) and had to order a replacement for $60 (including shipping) from Levittown. I was able to get all the other trim back without any rattles. I will complement the OEM kit for wrapping the wires in a soft felt, to prevent rattles inside the trim.

As an engineer myself, after this install, I am disguested with Ford's design not having the proper brake signal under the dash.
 

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I just had the OEM trailer break installed in 19 ranger today. When I got it back it all looked good but there was no manual or paperwork with it. I’m not sure how it operates or how to switch from proportional to manual braking. Is there a manual or instructions somewhere online I can reference?
 

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EJH

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I just had the OEM trailer break installed in 19 ranger today. When I got it back it all looked good but there was no manual or paperwork with it. I’m not sure how it operates or how to switch from proportional to manual braking. Is there a manual or instructions somewhere online I can reference?
Be aware that you'll probably have to have a real trailer connected to make any changes.

My brake controller only briefly lit up when I pressed the knob, otherwise it didn't show all the various colors that the manual states.

Once I had a real trailer connected, the knob came alive with a rainbow of colors. It's actually quite nice, but unfortunately difficult to test without a real trailer load on it. Those simple seven pin testers you can buy on Amazon, etc, don't put a real load on the wiring. I tried one of those but it didn't show anything was working.

You'll know you have a working controller, and 7 pin connection, when the truck dash tells you there is a trailer connected.

My truck doesn't show that message until I actually shift into drive and/or press the brake pedal. I was worried at first because I plugged my trailer in, and didn't see any dash indicator.

The brake controller comes set to proportional operation. You'll have to adjust the knob for the proper gain. The knob lights up from blue, through shades of purple, to deep red as you brake harder.
 
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Jdigs88

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Be aware that you'll probably have to have a real trailer connected to make any changes.

My brake controller only briefly lit up when I pressed the knob, otherwise it didn't show all the various colors that the manual states.

Once I had a real trailer connected, the knob came alive with a rainbow of colors. It's actually quite nice, but unfortunately difficult to test without a real trailer load on it. Those simple seven pin connectors you can buy on Amazon, etc, don't put a real load on the wiring. I tried one of those but it didn't show anything was working.

You'll know you have a working controller, and 7 pin connection, when the truck dash tells you there is a trailer connected.

My truck doesn't show that message until I actually shift into drive and/or press the brake pedal. I was worried at first because I plugged my trailer in, and didn't see any dash indicator.

The brake controller comes set to proportional operation. You'll have to adjust the knob for the proper gain. The knob lights up from blue, through shades of purple, to deep red as you brake harder.
Thanks for the info. This and the post before with a link to the manual were exactly what I needed!
 

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Since Ford uses the Redarc controller, I suppose this is related. I went to Levittown Ford to look up the cost of the part, and here's what I saw:

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/vkb3z-2c006-a.html

Does it appear that the part has changed? It looks like there are connectible ends, and a separate trailer lamp ECU. With the exception of the actual dial, perhaps more plug n' play? Does this setup look different than it did in the past?

Confused. . . .
 

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Since Ford uses the Redarc controller, I suppose this is related. I went to Levittown Ford to look up the cost of the part, and here's what I saw:

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/vkb3z-2c006-a.html

Does it appear that the part has changed? It looks like there are connectible ends, and a separate trailer lamp ECU. With the exception of the actual dial, perhaps more plug n' play? Does this setup look different than it did in the past?

Confused. . . .
you are not confused you are confusing the standard redarc brake controller with the Ford factory redarc brake controller.

Ford uses the redarc brake controller plus a second module to into the brake light to allow things like autolock brakes, cruise control, etc to function. every thread about redarc has that question.

I got the same setup in my ranger. (ford factory)

The only issue my brother had with install (he does that kind of install for work) was that his coworkers borrowed his step bits. we had to go buy more.
 

CODave

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you are not confused you are confusing the standard redarc brake controller with the Ford factory redarc brake controller.

Ford uses the redarc brake controller plus a second module to into the brake light to allow things like autolock brakes, cruise control, etc to function. every thread about redarc has that question.

I got the same setup in my ranger. (ford factory)

The only issue my brother had with install (he does that kind of install for work) was that his coworkers borrowed his step bits. we had to go buy more.

Got it. Sorry for the redundant question.
 

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I’m tracking on the Ford module and integrating the third brake light for predictive cruise and active braking assist.

I called RedArc and talked to them about the Tow Pro Elite and it’s use with my Lariat Trim Ranger. They broke it down and explained each aspect and ultimately it works on any Ranger trim. You won’t have the above mentioned features functioning to brake the trailer and you would need to turn them off in your settings if you have them. Otherwise they will do their job and brake the truck and not the trailer.

This isn’t an issue for me personally since I would never use cruise control towing and I wouldn’t want my truck to panic brake on its own while I’m towing. I would turn those off, thus making it a non-issue.

I respect that people would want those things working for them, but if your on the fence about going through the ringer at the Ford dealership it is possible and much cheaper to go through etrailer, buy the Tow Pro Elite, and DIY install.
 

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Sorry I'm late to the party, just got the Ford break controller installed by another Ford dealer, it was a process. Was unable to order the kit from my local dealer due to "It doesn't fit your vehicle." So I went straight to Ford Motor company and paid for the kit and an hours labor. Choose a dealership nearby, (200 miles away) and waited for the call.

The call came and of course they were not able to get me in for the date I chose. I had to wait a month for install. Received an email from Ford Motor company and was confused that the time had been changed from 9 am to 4pm, was able to verify with the dealership that the time I scheduled with them was still correct. Then the "fun" began...

Dropped off the vehicle and everyone starts calling me a different name, my name was spelled correct on the order paperwork that the dealership received with the part, but the person who originally scheduled my appointment spelled it wrong in their computer. No one was able to fix this until I paid the bill (more on that later).

Sat down and prepared myself for a couple hours wait, two hours stretched to three and one of the supervisors came out to inform me that the tech needed more time for install but they would need to bill me for two hours shop time. I agreed.

Four hours later I was able to pay for service, retrieve my vehicle, fix my name in their system. Here is a breakdown of the bill:

General repair - 100 (the amount billed to me by Ford Motor Company)
General repair 2 - 325 (Amount for "two" hours labor, Supervisor told me their shop rate was 130. I came in at 0900, paid for service at 1314.)

In the end I paid 288.15 for the controller, 100 for labor, and 325 for the additional time they spent. Looking at the documentation for the Lumen kit they allocate 30 mins for install and give a complete breakdown of the installation process including what tools are needed. I guess they didn't inform the tech what they were doing that day and the tech had issues with the install. I'm trying hard to not knock the dealership but I believe I could have saved myself 400 dollars by doing it myself even if it took me four hours to do. I have a misguided notion that the technitions at the repair shop should be able to complete the work in the time frame allocated or shorter due to experience and tool availability.
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