Preventive trans care

[omans2020ranger]

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum so I am not sure if there is a thread about this already. I have a 2020 xl 4x4. I got it at 72k miles and I had it serviced when I got it because it had a wired lunge when coming to a stop. The transmission guy told me it was actually my driveshaft so he repacked it and torqued it back in and it ran fine after that. He also changed the trans oil and filter. I am now having some hard shifts and a bit of a lunge again. It's now got 96k so my plan was a trans flush, replacing the pan with a larger capacity pan and adding a trans cooler in the Hope's it will extend its life. I am also going to ad Lubegard platinum because I have heard it a life saver. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on preventive measures to help keep it running good? I also read a lot in here about the solid driveshaft making a difference too. Thanks to all who chime in on this.

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[Stevedbvik1]

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum so I am not sure if there is a thread about this already. I have a 2020 xl 4x4. I got it at 72k miles and I had it serviced when I got it because it had a wired lunge when coming to a stop. The transmission guy told me it was actually my driveshaft so he repacked it and torqued it back in and it ran fine after that. He also changed the trans oil and filter. I am now having some hard shifts and a bit of a lunge again. It's now got 96k so my plan was a trans flush, replacing the pan with a larger capacity pan and adding a trans cooler in the Hope's it will extend its life. I am also going to ad Lubegard platinum because I have heard it a life saver. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on preventive measures to help keep it running good? I also read a lot in here about the solid driveshaft making a difference too. Thanks to all who chime in on this.

If it has the CDF drum issue then there’s not much you can do.

 

[Tom_C]

Did you buy it from a dealer, and did you get any warranty? If so, get it diagnosed ASAP.

If not, well, cross your fingers. Yes, there are a bunch of threads about it, poke around and you'll find them. I wouldn't put money into a pan, and especially a cooler, unless you actually need that for towing or whatever.

Also search for MBS Fitz Stick. A forum member markets a dipstick and fill tube that is awesome.

 

[RedlandRanger]

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum so I am not sure if there is a thread about this already. I have a 2020 xl 4x4. I got it at 72k miles and I had it serviced when I got it because it had a wired lunge when coming to a stop. The transmission guy told me it was actually my driveshaft so he repacked it and torqued it back in and it ran fine after that. He also changed the trans oil and filter. I am now having some hard shifts and a bit of a lunge again. It's now got 96k so my plan was a trans flush, replacing the pan with a larger capacity pan and adding a trans cooler in the Hope's it will extend its life. I am also going to ad Lubegard platinum because I have heard it a life saver. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on preventive measures to help keep it running good? I also read a lot in here about the solid driveshaft making a difference too. Thanks to all who chime in on this.

I would not worry about a trans cooler. These transmissions have a hard time getting up to operating temperatures. Some people who do heavy towing have seen it get hotter but still not in dangerous ranges. Same with the additional capacity pan - It does not really seem warranted. More important is to keep the fluids clean and at the proper level. As someone else recommended, the Fitzstick is highly recommended.

https://mikesbuildshop.com/

If he is out of stock when you go to order, be patient - it will be worth the wait. It is an incredible product - the Ranger should have come from the factory with it.

 

[harringtondav]

Dang, I love this forum. I'm getting ready to go deep-ish on my Ranger to install my UPR Catch Can (1st edition with the PITA blind connections behind the FL wheel), PPE pan and new filter.
I didn't realize until now how inaccessible the fill/dipstick is. Pretty sure I would have invented some new cuss words if I waited until I was ready to refill the tranny.
I just ordered Mike's Build Shop's stick kit.

 

[TJC]

I would not worry about a trans cooler. These transmissions have a hard time getting up to operating temperatures. Some people who do heavy towing have seen it get hotter but still not in dangerous ranges. Same with the additional capacity pan - It does not really seem warranted. More important is to keep the fluids clean and at the proper level. As someone else recommended, the Fitzstick is highly recommended.

https://mikesbuildshop.com/

If he is out of stock when you go to order, be patient - it will be worth the wait. It is an incredible product - the Ranger should have come from the factory with it.

My transmission ran at 195F with Ford plastic pan. I installed the PPE Deep pan and I've checked it twice since, both trips ~50 miles and it now running at 180F. This is spot checked after arriving home. I would prefer temps to be at 160F-165F range.

The temps climb pretty quickly when power braking. It doesn't take long to get to 215F running in Drive at 2K RPMS with the E brake on and foot firmly planted on the brake pedal.

The FitzStick gives one confidence in achieving an accurate fluid level. It is very easy to overfill the transmission. Being over or under filled will result in higher transmission fluid temps.

FWIW, I cleaned the plastic pan and the old transmission filter, and there was an light dusting of black residue on all surfaces. Both the magnet and the filter case where the internal magnet is located had a collection of even more dust. The pan magnet had a layer of sludge on it that blackened my blue mechanics towel.

These deposits were the result of only 18K miles. I am not sure how much accelerated wear has occurred on my transmission in that first 18K miles, but I am comfortable that I have slowed that process down considerably.

The transmission seems normal now, but I am still very skittish about it. When cold I occasionally hear a solenoid activate when shifting gears....usually in the 4-6 range. I am sure that the transmission will need to adapt to the new clean (LubeGard Platinum) environment.

The previous fluid change (with Ford pan still on the truck), when power braking to raise the temps to 215F I felt the torque pulse a few times, minor but it was there...clutches slipping I think. This last time after installing the PPE pan, the torque was consistent, no pulsing.

Not sure what to make of it, could be cooler fluid temps, SW adapting, or something else. Most importantly, the torque pulsing under load is now gone.

 

[harringtondav]

My transmission ran at 195F with Ford plastic pan. I installed the PPE Deep pan and I've checked it twice since, both trips ~50 miles and it now running at 180F. This is spot checked after arriving home. I would prefer temps to be at 160F-165F range.

FWIW, I cleaned the plastic pan and the old transmission filter, and there was an light dusting of black residue on all surfaces. Both the magnet and the filter case where the internal magnet is located had a collection of even more dust. The pan magnet had a layer of sludge on it that blackened my blue mechanics towel.

I'm waiting for my Fitzstick and five qts of ULV. Then I'll change to the PPE pan and new filter with a LubeGard top off. I plan on drilling a hole in the plastic pan to simplify the dump. ...thinking where the PPE pan's drain plug is located should be safe.

I'm going to do an inspection of the old pan like you did, as well as autopsy the original filter. I'm at 30K. Sludge doesn't bother me. It is mostly normal clutch disc/plate wear. I'll be looking for more coarse metallic fines. ....not sure what I'll do if I find this. No doubt the dealer will say "normal".

 

[TJC]

I'm waiting for my Fitzstick and five qts of ULV. Then I'll change to the PPE pan and new filter with a LubeGard top off. I plan on drilling a hole in the plastic pan to simplify the dump. ...thinking where the PPE pan's drain plug is located should be safe.

I'm going to do an inspection of the old pan like you did, as well as autopsy the original filter. I'm at 30K. Sludge doesn't bother me. It is mostly normal clutch disc/plate wear. I'll be looking for more coarse metallic fines. ....not sure what I'll do if I find this. No doubt the dealer will say "normal".

I'd install the FitzStick first, and suck the fluid out via the FitzStick. Even if changing the pan I'd go this route. I didn't spill a drop of fluid when I changed mine out. A $16 pump from Amazon works great, just put hose clamps on the hoses to keep them on the pump and pull the fluid out cold. I put a brass fitting on the outlet hose bottom to keep it in the gallon jug I used. I took it out cold and get 6-7qt out this way.

There will be a little in the pan but not enough that I spilled any. There was more in the filter than in the pan. Pan gasket was reusable. PPE Pan chart can be found here. I've added a few tips as well.

 

[harringtondav]

I'd install the FitzStick first, and suck the fluid out via the FitzStick. Even if changing the pan I'd go this route. I didn't spill a drop of fluid when I changed mine out. Pan gasket was reusable. PPE Pan chart can be found here. I've added a few tips as well.

Thanks, great idea. I have a 12V oil extractor pump that dumps into a five gal pail for my boat's 4.3 engine. It should work fine on the Ranger. IIRC a simple dump is about 5.5 qts, leaving up to seven in the tranny. The more old fluid I get out will be a good thing.
I have the PPE pan. I wasn't sure about the gasket so I got a new one. ....definitely reusable. Another spare part to stuff away in the garage.

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