OEM Ford Battery Life vs Static Voltage

[TechEditor]

On my 2022 Ranger XL (The beer can edition), it is now 3 1/2 yrs old, 36,000 miles. For the last 6 months, the static battery voltage is generally between 11.8 and 12.0 volts. The BMS is disconnected so it receives the full alternator charge. I receive numerous messages stating the system was shut off to save the battery. This generally indicates the battery needs to be replaced. Yet the OEM Gel-cell battery reliably starts the truck, setting out in the driveway, facing north in Northern NY, even at -20F with no indication that it is struggling. Since this is my 1st Ranger with the Gel-cell batteries, I am not familiar with the batteries cold reserve vs static battery voltage vs system shut down vs extreme cold starting. Anybody else experiencing warning messages/low static voltage, yet the battery continues to perform well in cold weather?

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[RangerBill]

On my 2022 Ranger XL (The beer can edition), it is now 3 1/2 yrs old, 36,000 miles. For the last 6 months, the static battery voltage is generally between 11.8 and 12.0 volts. The BMS is disconnected so it receives the full alternator charge. I receive numerous messages stating the system was shut off to save the battery. This generally indicates the battery needs to be replaced. Yet the OEM Gel-cell battery reliably starts the truck, setting out in the driveway, facing north in Northern NY, even at -20F with no indication that it is struggling. Since this is my 1st Ranger with the Gel-cell batteries, I am not familiar with the batteries cold reserve vs static battery voltage vs system shut down vs extreme cold starting. Anybody else experiencing warning messages/low static voltage, yet the battery continues to perform well in cold weather?

The batteries are AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat), not gel cell technology. 11.8 volts sounds low as an over-night resting voltage. I would put a charger on it and see if the low battery messages go away. If so, you may be driving it for short trips and it is not enough driving time to completely charge the battery. Otherwise, the battery may be going bad. Have it tested.

 

[TechEditor]

My bad. It is an AGM! And yes I agree the battery is most likely going bad. I didn't turn off the BMS for at least a year, so it was never charged correctly. My trips are 30 miles so that should be enough?? Also, I don't understand how with only 11.8V, the truck reliably starts way below zero.

 

[got3fords]

Have you desulfated it? That can vastly increase a battery's life, so I'm told. I have an onboard desulfator that operates when the charge voltage is 13.5V or greater. I am usually above that so it self desulfates a majority of the time.
I also have a Noco Genius battery maintainer/conditioner with a desulfate function. I periodically use it on my wife's Edge, as she makes very short trips.
I should mention I am still on the original battery at right about 5 years. And I have not disconnected the BMS sensor, yet. No indication of battery degradation so far (knocking on my wood coffee table).

 

[22Splash]

Ford pass keeps shutting me out of remote starts, etc on my phone, to "save battery life" I suspect I do not drive far enough to fully charge the battery, once I take a good trip over to the valley or such, all the Ford pass functions work like a charm...until the truck sits for a week, then it's back to "battery saver mode" I have never tested the resting voltage before but I am now!

 

[got3fords]

Testing "resting voltage" is probably not giving the full picture of your battery health. Get a good quality battery tester that checks voltage, internal resistance, CCV etc.

 

[airline tech]

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/maximizing-battery-life.23760/page-52
If you ref my posts # 779 - 782 and 784, I cover the whole system and explain why you get the messages.

 

[Rp930]

Interesting that disconnecting the BMS did pretty much nothing for battery life. I’ll just leave it connected.

 

[TechEditor]

I disconnected the BMS because I don't like the charging voltage varying from high 13's to low 15's. The voltage regulator keeps the voltage within a few tenth's around 14.5 all the time.

 

[harringtondav]

Anybody else experiencing warning messages/low static voltage, yet the battery continues to perform well in cold weather?

I recently changed my OEM battery because it was 6+ years old, and I wanted to change it on my terms. I'd been occasionally seeing messages about battery saver, standby or something similar for over two yrs, but the engine cranked fine at -15F.
After 6+ yrs the original battery didn't owe me much, but the price on the new battery stung a bit.

 

[fob63]

I recently changed my OEM battery because it was 6+ years old, and I wanted to change it on my terms. I'd been occasionally seeing messages about battery saver, standby or something similar for over two yrs, but the engine cranked fine at -15F.
After 6+ yrs the original battery didn't owe me much, but the price on the new battery stung a bit.

I'm near doing same thing. Mine is original and about 7 years old. I've done disulfate a few times, used a battery maintainer a lot. SOC is around 80%, CCA around 690 and resistance 4.37 ohms but battery voltage is 12.51. Past experiences is the next battery won't make it past 4 years with exact replacement!

 

[Toytec]

Just a side note, keep in mind anything aftermarket directly connected to the battery, on the neg side, connect to the bms sensor side and not the neg terminal.

 

[harringtondav]

Side note to my previous comment. I Googled the group size for the Ranger OEM battery before buying the new battery. Two sizes came back. I bought the AGM size that had the same CCA and reserve as the OEM.
I have the CD factory manual and reviewed the R&R process. It showed a simple removal of the B- and B+ clamps and cable terminal plates, and simply setting these aside to clear the battery. That was a huge LOL. The B+ side's connected cables were stiffer than a you know what. B- wasn't much better. I had to remove most of the cables from the plates to get them out of the way.
The battery clamped into the tray easy enough, but the battery blanket was too small to slide back over. So screw it, I buttoned it up w/o the blanket and decided to modify it on a warmer day. ...Group size matters.
Back in the cab, ignition on, presets intact, normal window function. (I bought a USB/OBD power pack that apparently worked). Key to start and nothing except a large, sad battery icon on the display. Back out under the hood. One of the several cable connections was just finger tight.
At my age I thought I passed the battery change out learning curve years ago. grmble.

 

[REDWM]

I have the original battery in my 2019 Ranger and I use a battery maintainer which also desulfates so my battery stays at about 12 volts most of the time. When I get the message about "battery saver, turn on ignition", I use the battery maintainer and I'm good.

 

[Montana Ranger]

Have you desulfated it? That can vastly increase a battery's life, so I'm told.

I have a April-build 2019 Lariat. I am still on the original battery. (7 years) During the fall and spring that I am driving it far less than usual, I'll put my desulfating trickle charger on it for a few says. Can't say that's why it's lasted so long, but it certainly isn't hurting.

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