New 10R80 transmission - Same problems 2020 xlt

[PCakes]

Some 6 months ago I had my transmission replaced at an independent shop due to CDF drum issues. Over time the truck started to develop the typical clunking, poor shifting and stutter issue when lifting off the gas. truck was out of warranty and thought I was screwed. I saw the price of new transmission came down to 2.5k and decided to pull the trigger to have the trans swapped. Quoted some local shops and was able to get someone to do it for 4.7k total for the new transmission with a new trans cooler.

I confirmed new transmission has the updated CDF drum in it, but shifts poorly. Having issues with shifting from 1-3 and when car is coming to a stop again downshift making me nauseous. Every gear shift is slowly getting more and more noticeable again.

when I initially drove off the lot car felt jerky, but thought it would improve over time as it was in a learning pattern.

I’m starting to wonder if I should have had the torque converter changed out as well as when accelerating from 3 the thing drops RPMs like 3 times before finally shifting into 4th. love the truck and has been awesome for hauling all my fishing gear and going on 2 track trails but the trans makes me want to pull my hair out

I believe new transmission has 30k warranty. Shop told me they get paid by ford to do any warranty work related to the trans.

guess what has everyone’s experience with the new transmission?

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[Chris M]

Mine was only rebuilt and not replaced, but so far it's done ok. That said, if I have to address another failure with it I will trade it out. Im not gonna spend any much time wondering when it's gonna fail.

 

[Techcargt]

Personally I would have never installed a new transmission without also installing a new torque converter. If you had any type of metal fiber running through the system it was trapped in the torque converter and you put the converter back in and you transmission with material in it.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

My 2022 had the transmission replaced last July. It came with a new converter. It’s been flawless.

 

[ctechbob]

Personally I would have never installed a new transmission without also installing and you torque converter. If you had any type of metal fiber running through the system it was trapped in the torque converter and you put the converter back in and you transmission with material in it.

This x100.

Getting any contamination into the new valve body is just asking for trouble.

 

[airline tech]

Since this was done by a independent shop and you are stating - same shifting issues then it may or may not be a bad transmission or torque convertor.
I do agree that a new or rebuilt transmission should also have a new torque convertor, but with the same symptoms still remaining then it needs a deeper T-Shoot to confirm that it is indeed internal to the transmission and or torque convertor.

After the install - did the shop perform the necessary programming of the solenoids as well as the reset the adaptive learning tables?

The Transmission Strategy Download - Programs the PCM to match the Solenoids installed in the transmission (Electrical Control)
and
Adaptive Learning Cycle - Reset clears all learned values of the old transmission and forces a new learn cycle, there is also a manual procedure that is performed via a drive cycle.

Were the above steps C/W?


With it being a possibility that the issue is on the engine side, has the PIDs been monitored for a possible failing MAPT Sensor as well as the DPFE Sensor?
Note: The MAPT Sensor indirectly ties into transmission shifting points and the DPFE ties into what the MAPT sees as pressure increase and decrease with EGR Flow - Open & Closed
One of the factor parameters for shift points is engine load and engine load mainly comes from the MAPT Sensor.

So before jumping into the fire and condemning the transmission or torque convertor, the above procedures need to be performed and if all are good then perform a deeper test of the internals of the transmission and torque convertor via scan tool and associated test equipment as well as a code scan (if its coding anything)

Just wanted to add some other possible things to inspect in the T-Shoot process

 

[ronbaker33]

Some 6 months ago I had my transmission replaced at an independent shop due to CDF drum issues. Over time the truck started to develop the typical clunking, poor shifting and stutter issue when lifting off the gas. truck was out of warranty and thought I was screwed. I saw the price of new transmission came down to 2.5k and decided to pull the trigger to have the trans swapped. Quoted some local shops and was able to get someone to do it for 4.7k total for the new transmission with a new trans cooler.

I confirmed new transmission has the updated CDF drum in it, but shifts poorly. Having issues with shifting from 1-3 and when car is coming to a stop again downshift making me nauseous. Every gear shift is slowly getting more and more noticeable again.

when I initially drove off the lot car felt jerky, but thought it would improve over time as it was in a learning pattern.

I’m starting to wonder if I should have had the torque converter changed out as well as when accelerating from 3 the thing drops RPMs like 3 times before finally shifting into 4th. love the truck and has been awesome for hauling all my fishing gear and going on 2 track trails but the trans makes me want to pull my hair out

I believe new transmission has 30k warranty. Shop told me they get paid by ford to do any warranty work related to the trans.

guess what has everyone’s experience with the new transmission?

You will at first think I am off base. But give it a try. I experienced problem like you described for months. Then one day I got a check engine light. The code came back as a bad EGR. Replaced the EGR and more light and no more issues that I thought was a transmission going south. Ford dealer even said it was going bad. Told me to run it until it failed. Turned out replacing the EGR solved the problem. Also increased my fuel economy too.

 

[Dereku]

Airlinetech is right. Everything has to be reset for a new transmission. TC replacement for a blown transmission is almost a requirement. It could be the TC that destroyed the whole thing, or the CDF drum. Either way there is no drain on these TC that I know of. So lots of debris can hang out in there.

 

[THORNRIDER]

RONBAKER33 you are spot on with your bad EGR Pressure Sensor causing what seems like a transmission problem. My Ranger was running like shit and the transmission seemed like the problem. Lurching, clunking and MPG was down. All these forums blame the tranny for everything. I purchased an EGR Pressure Sensor from my local Ford dealer (Part# KA1Z-5L200-A) for $135.00 replaced it in about 30 min., after watching a great youtube video. The truck runs PERFECT now. Shifting is perfect, no lurching or clunking. MPG went from 22 to 27!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Ron for sharing this information. This is what this Forum is all about.

 

[PCakes]

EGR and DPFE had been replaced by me prior to getting the transmission replaced.. averaging 27 on my fishing trip so don’t think egr issues. When I get back I can check forscan to see if the solenoid was programmed, if not, not a big deal to reprogram it if that means new trans’s issues goes away. Though I will say Lot of my old issues I saw in the old trans showing up: bucking when letting off the gas and cursing in 10th gear. Only think missing now is clunking….not looking good. Consistent 1-3-5 gear slams, and 3-1 this whole trip. Just hoping I don’t get stuck on some two track in the middle of nowhere.

 

[Tristan2283]

RONBAKER33 you are spot on with your bad EGR Pressure Sensor causing what seems like a transmission problem. My Ranger was running like shit and the transmission seemed like the problem. Lurching, clunking and MPG was down. All these forums blame the tranny for everything. I purchased an EGR Pressure Sensor from my local Ford dealer (Part# KA1Z-5L200-A) for $135.00 replaced it in about 30 min., after watching a great youtube video. The truck runs PERFECT now. Shifting is perfect, no lurching or clunking. MPG went from 22 to 27!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Ron for sharing this information. This is what this Forum is all about.

I completely agree, At first I thought my transmissions CDF drum was bad, including torque converter, but after speaking with my mechanic who had mentored me while working at ford, he had heard the concerns I had, and the issues with my truck. He first said to work my way up from easy, cheaper repairs, up to worst case scenario. After Changing Spark plugs, and doing a proper Injector clean, not one of those cheap engine destroyers people always say are “Great”, the issue was dimmed down, and the truck was running better as I no longer had the stuttering at 40km/h but still had the harsh shifting issue. After doing some more research and testing, the EGR seemed to be the culprit from what I’ve seen in many forum posts, analysis with other mechanics, etc. although I haven’t switched out the EGR sensor, I do know they are prone to moisture damage. So I completely agree with many of the posts above. Try the EGR sensor, if it fixes the problem great, if it doesn’t, at least that’s another part you have checked off as replaced, and you can continue down the list of trial and error until corrected.

 

[Brian56]

As a new Ranger owner, I couldn't agree more with what RONBAKER33 said. His story fits mine almost to the T. Including the part number and the price. After reading about the CDF drum issue, I thought I was doomed to either a shitty running truck or a huge expense getting it fixed. I know this won't help PCakes' case, but for any of you who have this jerky tranny problem as described by RONBAKER33, do yourself a favor and replace the EGR DPFE recirculation pressure SENSOR before wasting money at your local dealer. I bought this sensor from Ford at a hefty premium for warranty purposes, but I've seen aftermarket, online, new for about $35. Hell, you can't get your truck into a garage for that price, let alone do anything with it! And this video makes the job a snap. (It may not start from the beginning, but you can take it there). I'm not a mechanic, but I got it done in about 45 minutes. (If that link doesn't get you there, he goes by the name "The Joy Wrenching") Of course do you own homework about part numbers etc. Hope this helps, and you get to really like your truck again! Thanks to all who recommended this action and to the forum itself. One more note: I did NOT have an engine error code..

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