Morimoto XB LED

[airline tech]

I am not in park, I just could tell b/c I pulled up to a building and saw the reflections in the window, when I put into Drive the everything lights up, if I keep the light setting to OFF then it's just the DRL as the pics from SOCAL display.

Thank you for that in depth write up, I can use this as well.

that's a lot of info but we're back to the Forscan discussion, which I am reading does void warranties.

I think as SOCAL stated, if i manually adust it during the day, it will work w/o Forscan which I think I want to avoid.

Ok, by you stating that if you select the IPC - DRL setting to off, your DRLs remain on.

So since you are getting Tapped power for the DRL’s that selection is not turning off the DRL’s but is actually removing power from the Low-Beam (OEM) headlights as the DRL’s

The reason you are having issues with the DRL’s when you have the IPC setting to On is you are sending power to the DRL circuit on 2 sources. (From Tapped Power & From the Factory Plug)

I understand exactly how the headlights are wired now and can ascertain that the tapped power is not needed, if you use Forscan you can power them from the BCM setup as Factory LED (settings)

Morimotos bypass tapped power eliminates the need for Forscan but forces you to have the DRL IPC control to work opposite of its intended purpose.

As far as voiding warranty on the headlight circuit- you now have aftermarket assemblies not approved by Ford, it’s already voided.

So you have the option here, leave as is or unplug the tapped power and make a few changes in Forscan and have them work exactly like the Lariat LEDs are controlled .

So I am just pointing out that yes they work without Forscan with tapped power source but the BCM has no control over that power feed thus bypassing its internal protection circuit (FET Circuit) monitors the circuit for shorts etc to protect the BCM itself.

So IF there is an issue on that circuit you now risk damaging the BCM.
I am not trying to scare you, I am making sure you fully understand what that tapped power source is actually doing.

Note: The Forscan changes are just adjusting the As Built files to exactly what the Lariat settings are set to with LED Headlamps.

Sponsored

 

[RaptorZ]

Ok, by you stating that if you select the IPC - DRL setting to off, your DRLs remain on.

So since you are getting Tapped power for the DRL’s that selection is not turning off the DRL’s but is actually removing power from the Low-Beam (OEM) headlights as the DRL’s

The reason you are having issues with the DRL’s when you have the IPC setting to On is you are sending power to the DRL circuit on 2 sources. (From Tapped Power & From the Factory Plug)

I understand exactly how the headlights are wired now and can ascertain that the tapped power is not needed, if you use Forscan you can power them from the BCM setup as Factory LED (settings)

Morimotos bypass tapped power eliminates the need for Forscan but forces you to have the DRL IPC control to work opposite of its intended purpose.

As far as voiding warranty on the headlight circuit- you now have aftermarket assemblies not approved by Ford, it’s already voided.

So you have the option here, leave as is or unplug the tapped power and make a few changes in Forscan and have them work exactly like the Lariat LEDs are controlled .

So I am just pointing out that yes they work without Forscan with tapped power source but the BCM has no control over that power feed thus bypassing its internal protection circuit (FET Circuit) monitors the circuit for shorts etc to protect the BCM itself.

So IF there is an issue on that circuit you now risk damaging the BCM.
I am not trying to scare you, I am making sure you fully understand what that tapped power source is actually doing.

Note: The Forscan changes are just adjusting the As Built files to exactly what the Lariat settings are set to with LED Headlamps.

Thanks, I think I'll take this write up to them...and that's impressive that you could ascertain all that from what I wrote!

 

[RaptorZ]

Morimoto's daytime running lights (LED strip) are powered by the fused power lead that you run to your fuse box (I ran mine into the vehicle). You can turn off your OEM daytime running lights in your dash menu... You don't NEED Forscan.

There is a step down on the drivers side from both lights, like nearly every projector LED and HID out there. It is to help with oncoming traffic. That said, Morimoto's step is too far to the left and still blinds traffic, especially the driver's side, as noted in the below image.





My S2000's factory HIDs have the step further to the right so that oncoming traffic is not blinded.

Your lighting looks as I would think mine should, I am going to take a pic tonight and post it, but mine is more like a block of black about 10-15 feet ahead of the truck and when a car is in front of me it appears like it's a shadow of the teh car in front of me, like there's a light shining on the right side of the car in front and it's casting a shadow on the left...

 

[airline tech]

To get a better understanding of the Forscan settings ref my thread below


Updated Findings for Lariat Headlight Swap | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

For a quick reference:

Your factory BCM settings for the Headlights (Halogens) are:

BCM
726-26-02 - (0000-0002-0057)
726-45-01 - (0A01-0200-0080)
726-50-01 - (0280)

Factory BCM settings for Lariat Headlights (LED) are:

BCM
726-26-02 - (0000-0001-0056)
726-45-01 - (0A01-1000-008E)
726-50-01 - (108E)

The most important Hex-Line is 726-02-02 - By changing (0002 to 0001) you move DRL power from the Low Beams to the DRL (LED) Strip.
Being that Morimoto added a fuse tap for power the DRL Strip has power from that tapped source thus bypassing the BCM power source.

But the BCM is still trying to power the Headlamps as Halogens and is also applying power to the Low Beams for DRL output.
By selecting the IPC setting - DRL Off, you are turning off the BCM output (Low Beam as DRL)
So, if this was factory (stock) you would actually be turning off the DRL, but with the tapped power source you cannot actually turn the DRL's off.

If you change the Hex Code, the IPC control will function normally, and you will gain the option to turn the DRL's off.

Note: The last (2) characters of any Hex Code Line is the (Check Sum) of the line, they have to march a VALID programable code for the characters of the line.



Being that you installed aftermarket LED's the settings for the Lariat LED should work the same for the Morimoto's.

The (1) and only difference is that the Factory LED's use a single bulb for the Turn Signals and the Morimoto's use the (switchback) LED strip as the Turn Signals. (White to Amber = Switchback)
Plus, Morimoto gives you optional (Standard vs Sequential) signal output.

Both Headlights use the DRL Strip as Park and DRL, Dims in Park and Brightens in DRL

Both Headlights are (Bi-LED) - They use a shutter to switch between Low and High Beam.
When in Low Beam - the shudder blocks the High Beam light output.
The Morimoto's just have 3 lights but function the same.

And just a FYI, the only adjustment for the Headlights is (Vertical- Up and Down) height.
There is no adjustment for (Horizontal - Side to Side)

So, the light cutoff on the sides is in the design of the Headlamp Itself.

 

[RaptorZ]

To get a better understanding of the Forscan settings ref my thread below


Updated Findings for Lariat Headlight Swap | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

For a quick reference:

Your factory BCM settings for the Headlights (Halogens) are:

BCM
726-26-02 - (0000-0002-0057)
726-45-01 - (0A01-0200-0080)
726-50-01 - (0280)

Factory BCM settings for Lariat Headlights (LED) are:

BCM
726-26-02 - (0000-0001-0056)
726-45-01 - (0A01-1000-008E)
726-50-01 - (108E)

The most important Hex-Line is 726-02-02 - By changing (0002 to 0001) you move DRL power from the Low Beams to the DRL (LED) Strip.
Being that Morimoto added a fuse tap for power the DRL Strip has power from that tapped source thus bypassing the BCM power source.

But the BCM is still trying to power the Headlamps as Halogens and is also applying power to the Low Beams for DRL output.
By selecting the IPC setting - DRL Off, you are turning off the BCM output (Low Beam as DRL)
So, if this was factory (stock) you would actually be turning off the DRL, but with the tapped power source you cannot actually turn the DRL's off.

If you change the Hex Code, the IPC control will function normally, and you will gain the option to turn the DRL's off.

Note: The last (2) characters of any Hex Code Line is the (Check Sum) of the line, they have to march a VALID programable code for the characters of the line.



Being that you installed aftermarket LED's the settings for the Lariat LED should work the same for the Morimoto's.

The (1) and only difference is that the Factory LED's use a single bulb for the Turn Signals and the Morimoto's use the (switchback) LED strip as the Turn Signals. (White to Amber = Switchback)
Plus, Morimoto gives you optional (Standard vs Sequential) signal output.

Both Headlights use the DRL Strip as Park and DRL, Dims in Park and Brightens in DRL

Both Headlights are (Bi-LED) - They use a shutter to switch between Low and High Beam.
When in Low Beam - the shudder blocks the High Beam light output.
The Morimoto's just have 3 lights but function the same.

And just a FYI, the only adjustment for the Headlights is (Vertical- Up and Down) height.
There is no adjustment for (Horizontal - Side to Side)

So, the light cutoff on the sides is in the design of the Headlamp Itself.

So if I understand this right, the forscan is ONLY applying the same code/programming to the Lariat as if it had LED's installed in the first place? in other words, had my Lariat Ranger came with LED's and I wanted to swap the Morimoto's there wouldn't be a need for the forscan.

or

are you saying due to the how the Morimoto's connect (power) there would still be some tweaks needed

b/c if it's the same as OEM LED Headlight then I see no reason why it would void a warranty or cause any issues.

but thank you this is some great in depth information! Way beyond what I expected

 

[airline tech]

So if I understand this right, the forscan is ONLY applying the same code/programming to the Lariat as if it had LED's installed in the first place? in other words, had my Lariat Ranger came with LED's and I wanted to swap the Morimoto's there wouldn't be a need for the forscan.

or

are you saying due to the how the Morimoto's connect (power) there would still be some tweaks needed

b/c if it's the same as OEM LED Headlight then I see no reason why it would void a warranty or cause any issues.

but thank you this is some great in depth information! Way beyond what I expected

Since I have not installed the Morimoto's, I cannot say 100% that the Lariat LED settings will work for the Morimoto's, but I have a very good hunch they will.

From what I can tell is that Morimoto chose to supply a separate power source for the mere fact they did not want to market a aftermarket solution to customers and state that it will require a module programming change for them to work. (Forscan)
But what they missed in (Testing) is your current issue, by not adjusting what the BCM is going to do with the power source (as far as it knows) you have Halogen Headlamps, and it wants to power the Low Beams for DRL.

So, yes if you had factory LED's and you chose to swap them for the Morimoto's then you could just swap them out and not use the tapped power source and requires zero changes to the module programming via (Forscan)

Before I did the swap I checked on this Forum what was needed to do it, various owners have posted various changes needed in Forscan (Confusing)

So, I used this:
Index - FordServiceInfo.Com (motorcraftservice.com)

This site allows you to see the (As-Built) data Specific to YOUR VIN #
I used my VIN # and printed it off, then plugged in various VIN #'s from online sales for various trims and highlighted the Hex-Lines that were different.

Once I found the specific Hex-Lines relating to the Headlights I compared a XLT (Halogen) to Lariat (LED) and noted the exact changes that are made in the BCM (Data) Lines.

Note: At this time the Lariats with the LED Delete were just being delivered, and all or most dealer ordered trucks were not being deleted, this deletion was only for customer ordered trucks, so finding a Lariat with the deleted LEDs to compare (As-Built) data was not an option.

Every Ranger Truck with Halo's has the same settings on those lines.
Every Ranger Truck (Lariat) with LED's has the same settings on those lines.

So even though we have a Lariat, we have the settings for Halogens with Halogen Headlamps just like the lower trims.
By adding LED Headlamps, we change the settings to match ALL the other Lariats that did not get downgraded to the Halogens.


As far as Warranty goes, you and I both have altered the Headlights from the way it came off the factory line. (If they wanted to be a PITA about it, they could deny warranty.
As in my case, my Halogens were included in the Warranty, even though I added Factory LED's, I do not expect them to warranty them if an issue were to arise.
One would hope but with the way dealers are now, I am expecting you are on your own there is nothing we can do.

My specific issue arose with my Ordered 22, when the Window Sticker was posted and notified that the truck was built, I noted Headlamps (Halogen) $500.00 Credit.
So, at delivery I was faced with Walk Away or sell it to another dealer who offered more than I was paying for it (with the agreement I purchase from them a new FX4 with the LEDs at a higher than MSRP price) - After all said and done it was about a ($3500.00) difference out of pocket.

I chose to keep it, with ZERO help from the Dealer or Ford Cooperate on assistance with pricing on them, as I was wanting more than a measly $500 for something that was going to cost way more than that to bring the truck back to (AS ORDERED)

So, all said and done, I found good pricing on the Headlamps and Fogs and swapped them myself for $2700.00, it sucked I had to do it, but in the long run it was the best option.
As for me the Halo's sucked, I drive on some dark country roads with lots of deer, the LEDs were a HUGE noted difference, and it was (1) of the main reasons for choosing the Lariat over the XLT.
The only (PLUS) they deleted the ASS and paid me for it, it would have been the first mod anyway (Deleted)

 

[RaptorZ]

Since I have not installed the Morimoto's, I cannot say 100% that the Lariat LED settings will work for the Morimoto's, but I have a very good hunch they will.

From what I can tell is that Morimoto chose to supply a separate power source for the mere fact they did not want to market a aftermarket solution to customers and state that it will require a module programming change for them to work. (Forscan)
But what they missed in (Testing) is your current issue, by not adjusting what the BCM is going to do with the power source (as far as it knows) you have Halogen Headlamps, and it wants to power the Low Beams for DRL.

So, yes if you had factory LED's and you chose to swap them for the Morimoto's then you could just swap them out and not use the tapped power source and requires zero changes to the module programming via (Forscan)

Before I did the swap I checked on this Forum what was needed to do it, various owners have posted various changes needed in Forscan (Confusing)

So, I used this:
Index - FordServiceInfo.Com (motorcraftservice.com)

This site allows you to see the (As-Built) data Specific to YOUR VIN #
I used my VIN # and printed it off, then plugged in various VIN #'s from online sales for various trims and highlighted the Hex-Lines that were different.

Once I found the specific Hex-Lines relating to the Headlights I compared a XLT (Halogen) to Lariat (LED) and noted the exact changes that are made in the BCM (Data) Lines.

Note: At this time the Lariats with the LED Delete were just being delivered, and all or most dealer ordered trucks were not being deleted, this deletion was only for customer ordered trucks, so finding a Lariat with the deleted LEDs to compare (As-Built) data was not an option.

Every Ranger Truck with Halo's has the same settings on those lines.
Every Ranger Truck (Lariat) with LED's has the same settings on those lines.

So even though we have a Lariat, we have the settings for Halogens with Halogen Headlamps just like the lower trims.
By adding LED Headlamps, we change the settings to match ALL the other Lariats that did not get downgraded to the Halogens.


As far as Warranty goes, you and I both have altered the Headlights from the way it came off the factory line. (If they wanted to be a PITA about it, they could deny warranty.
As in my case, my Halogens were included in the Warranty, even though I added Factory LED's, I do not expect them to warranty them if an issue were to arise.
One would hope but with the way dealers are now, I am expecting you are on your own there is nothing we can do.

My specific issue arose with my Ordered 22, when the Window Sticker was posted and notified that the truck was built, I noted Headlamps (Halogen) $500.00 Credit.
So, at delivery I was faced with Walk Away or sell it to another dealer who offered more than I was paying for it (with the agreement I purchase from them a new FX4 with the LEDs at a higher than MSRP price) - After all said and done it was about a ($3500.00) difference out of pocket.

I chose to keep it, with ZERO help from the Dealer or Ford Cooperate on assistance with pricing on them, as I was wanting more than a measly $500 for something that was going to cost way more than that to bring the truck back to (AS ORDERED)

So, all said and done, I found good pricing on the Headlamps and Fogs and swapped them myself for $2700.00, it sucked I had to do it, but in the long run it was the best option.
As for me the Halo's sucked, I drive on some dark country roads with lots of deer, the LEDs were a HUGE noted difference, and it was (1) of the main reasons for choosing the Lariat over the XLT.
The only (PLUS) they deleted the ASS and paid me for it, it would have been the first mod anyway (Deleted)

My story is similar to yours as far as a '22 with the Halos' and the crappy 500.00 credit....that Pissed me off too, but Early Fall 22 it was gettin hard to find a Lariat in Gray or Silver with FX4 and Black Package....I found this one at MSRP when everyone around my area was chargin 5 to 10 G over sticker...it was buggin me to have Halo's on that truck and I called about puttin in the original Ford LED's and now they're charging, 1700.00 A PIECE for them...that's when I seen the morimotos and was like expensive but looked nice and as they claimed P&P plug and play...

At any rate, thanks for the info...I got a lot of information to take back to the shop, now to get my photos uploaded here...i am not sure the photo's do it justice...and you mentioned the only thing that can be adjusted is the up and down, im now starting to worry it's the overcompensation of not shining in the other lane issue...

 

[RaptorZ]

I am not sure these photo's do the dark spots justice but here they are, I think it's worse than what the pictures show.

 

[RaptorZ]

Since I have not installed the Morimoto's, I cannot say 100% that the Lariat LED settings will work for the Morimoto's, but I have a very good hunch they will.

From what I can tell is that Morimoto chose to supply a separate power source for the mere fact they did not want to market a aftermarket solution to customers and state that it will require a module programming change for them to work. (Forscan)
But what they missed in (Testing) is your current issue, by not adjusting what the BCM is going to do with the power source (as far as it knows) you have Halogen Headlamps, and it wants to power the Low Beams for DRL.

So, yes if you had factory LED's and you chose to swap them for the Morimoto's then you could just swap them out and not use the tapped power source and requires zero changes to the module programming via (Forscan)

Before I did the swap I checked on this Forum what was needed to do it, various owners have posted various changes needed in Forscan (Confusing)

So, I used this:
Index - FordServiceInfo.Com (motorcraftservice.com)

This site allows you to see the (As-Built) data Specific to YOUR VIN #
I used my VIN # and printed it off, then plugged in various VIN #'s from online sales for various trims and highlighted the Hex-Lines that were different.

Once I found the specific Hex-Lines relating to the Headlights I compared a XLT (Halogen) to Lariat (LED) and noted the exact changes that are made in the BCM (Data) Lines.

Note: At this time the Lariats with the LED Delete were just being delivered, and all or most dealer ordered trucks were not being deleted, this deletion was only for customer ordered trucks, so finding a Lariat with the deleted LEDs to compare (As-Built) data was not an option.

Every Ranger Truck with Halo's has the same settings on those lines.
Every Ranger Truck (Lariat) with LED's has the same settings on those lines.

So even though we have a Lariat, we have the settings for Halogens with Halogen Headlamps just like the lower trims.
By adding LED Headlamps, we change the settings to match ALL the other Lariats that did not get downgraded to the Halogens.


As far as Warranty goes, you and I both have altered the Headlights from the way it came off the factory line. (If they wanted to be a PITA about it, they could deny warranty.
As in my case, my Halogens were included in the Warranty, even though I added Factory LED's, I do not expect them to warranty them if an issue were to arise.
One would hope but with the way dealers are now, I am expecting you are on your own there is nothing we can do.

My specific issue arose with my Ordered 22, when the Window Sticker was posted and notified that the truck was built, I noted Headlamps (Halogen) $500.00 Credit.
So, at delivery I was faced with Walk Away or sell it to another dealer who offered more than I was paying for it (with the agreement I purchase from them a new FX4 with the LEDs at a higher than MSRP price) - After all said and done it was about a ($3500.00) difference out of pocket.

I chose to keep it, with ZERO help from the Dealer or Ford Cooperate on assistance with pricing on them, as I was wanting more than a measly $500 for something that was going to cost way more than that to bring the truck back to (AS ORDERED)

So, all said and done, I found good pricing on the Headlamps and Fogs and swapped them myself for $2700.00, it sucked I had to do it, but in the long run it was the best option.
As for me the Halo's sucked, I drive on some dark country roads with lots of deer, the LEDs were a HUGE noted difference, and it was (1) of the main reasons for choosing the Lariat over the XLT.
The only (PLUS) they deleted the ASS and paid me for it, it would have been the first mod anyway (Deleted)

Thank you again for this information, even as someone who never has worked on a Ranger

This was invaluable information! and clear and concise, thanks....now I have to find a shop that has that capability...'


And EDIT, trying to find someone that is willing to work on this w Forscan in IL is difficult to find, I found a sound guy that did it on a bronco and he's like I don't like messin with that stuff b/c one digit off and it's a mess...

 

[airline tech]

I would say as long as it is working, just leave it as is for now.
My only concern would be addressing the darkened areas of the light output.

1. Are they properly Aimed, as Aiming them is required, the adjustment (IF NEEDED) may help move the darkened area down to where it is not as noticeable.

2. If you view the headlights (Head-On) does it appear that the outside light source is cutoff, this MAY be due to the power source not being correct, IDK but it could play into it as a factor.
As I am curious if changing the Hex-Codes would eliminate that darkened area.

3. It could just be the design of the headlamp housing itself,

In finding locals who have Forscan, I would look at Truck Specialty shops due to the fact that Forscan is highly popular with the F-150.

Forscan is not all that difficult to use and with the Forscan software plus the OBD Link EX adaptor and a working windows laptop it is only about a $75.00 investment.

I never used Forscan prior to Oct 2022, and I got it specifically for the Ranger, I just watched some of the how to videos on youtube to get started and comfortable in using it.

Forscan will also give you the option to personalize various settings and features on the truck that are available on the truck but not a user selection on the IPC.
It also gives you a somewhat factory level scan tool, it does have limitations on what you can do with it using it as a troubleshooting tool, but it at least allows you to read and clear codes for all modules.

As far as Factory LED @ 1700.00 ea, you have to shop around as that was the price I was looking at as well but found this website and they are actually a local dealer near me, so I saved on shipping.

Headlamp Components for 2022 Ford Ranger | Ford Parts Direct (oemfordpartsdirect.com)

Example:
Part # / Description
Price
1

Headlamp Assembly
KB3Z-13008-A

Ford
Headlamp Assembly, Right
Ranger. Right. Reserve series (lariat).
MSRP $1,676.43
$1,106.45

 

[yamahaSHO]

So you have the option here, leave as is or unplug the tapped power and make a few changes in Forscan and have them work exactly like the Lariat LEDs are controlled .

I thought of pinning in to run the Morimoto DRL's like OEM, however, without constant power to the Morimoto's, you'll get a hyper flash every now and again on the left side and any time you turn on the DRL's, it'll do the stupid startup sequence.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I am not sure these photo's do the dark spots justice but here they are, I think it's worse than what the pictures show.

Aim your lights. One is much higher than the other.

 

[Big Blue]

Aim your lights. One is much higher than the other.

I agree, after looking closely at the pictures, it appears your left (drivers) light is way too high and your right may be too low. You really need to find a level area with a wall you can project your lights on from 20-25 feet away. You should have a clean cut-off line at about the hight of your headlights. There should be little to no light scatter above this line. There will be a small step up to the right side. This is normal as they are to project farther down your lane than the oncoming one. Be sure to have you fog/driving lights off when you do this. As they can confuse the issue.

 

[RaptorZ]

I thought of pinning in to run the Morimoto DRL's like OEM, however, without constant power to the Morimoto's, you'll get a hyper flash every now and again on the left side and any time you turn on the DRL's, it'll do the stupid startup sequence.

can you explain this in a different way, are you saying that if I was to use FORSCAN to alter it to the factory settings, as if the truck came with LED lights, that the morimoto's wouldn't get enough power and would hyperflash b/c of that?

 

[yamahaSHO]

can you explain this in a different way, are you saying that if I was to use FORSCAN to alter it to the factory settings, as if the truck came with LED lights, that the morimoto's wouldn't get enough power and would hyperflash b/c of that?

No, I didn't say that. I said that without power on the feed, you'll get a hyper flash. If you were to pin it like OEM, they'd come on when you put it in drive. Whether there is enough power available from the factory DRL feed, I don't know.

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