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Knoxville drive shaft

silverstx

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Nice.

But

###CUSTOMER WILL BE REQUIRED TO PULL MEASUREMENTS###
CUSTOMER IS REQUIRED TO VERIFY CLEARANCE.
Built to order per your measurements.

Really?
 

Stevedbvik1

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Just curious why you chose the Knoxville over the Tom Woods which is about half the money.
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Nice.

But

###CUSTOMER WILL BE REQUIRED TO PULL MEASUREMENTS###
CUSTOMER IS REQUIRED TO VERIFY CLEARANCE.
Built to order per your measurements.

Really?
I think the same goes with Tom Woods. I recall there might be some differences between Tremors and regular Rangers. Also, folks may have swapped in a different rear end, added stuff that might mess with clearance like aftermarket exhaust, larger gas tank, etc.
 

silverstx

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I think the same goes with Tom Woods. I recall there might be some differences between Tremors and regular Rangers. Also, folks may have swapped in a different rear end, added stuff that might mess with clearance like aftermarket exhaust, larger gas tank, etc.
Knoxville has a separate listing for the Tremor.
If one has no mods is there still possible variance such that it has to be custom length per truck? Would make taking that measurement a nervous task!

Just curious as not about to go for it at this point.
 


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That_one_Ranger

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Nice.

But

###CUSTOMER WILL BE REQUIRED TO PULL MEASUREMENTS###
CUSTOMER IS REQUIRED TO VERIFY CLEARANCE.
Built to order per your measurements.

Really?
I didn’t see an issue with this all it takes is a tape measure it’s reassuring in my opinion knowing you’ve given them all the info they need
 
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That_one_Ranger

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Just curious why you chose the Knoxville over the Tom Woods which is about half the money.
I was recommended by some other friends and also I was trying to get one fairly fast and they had great turnaround time and were easy to deal with
 
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That_one_Ranger

That_one_Ranger

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Knoxville has a separate listing for the Tremor.
If one has no mods is there still possible variance such that it has to be custom length per truck? Would make taking that measurement a nervous task!

Just curious as not about to go for it at this point.
There should be much variance with no modification but you never know what ford gets to doing some times. And in my case I have the standard ranger rear ends that I use in my tremor.
 

NotBudule2

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Yes , Tom Woods also wants a "flange to flange " measurement , then they have to allow for a spacer on the transfer case end...
 
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That_one_Ranger

That_one_Ranger

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It looks nice! Any driving improvements? Smoother, faster acceleration as claimed on their website? Mpg boost due to less mass and drag from an extra u joint?
Haven’t driven it enough to say for mileage and what not I’m sure that will be very minimal, and of all the drive shafts I’ve done I never really notice much in acceleration other than the slight slop you get from a carrier bearing so from what I know with other vehicles and can feel with this one I’d say not really faster just a smoother experience
 

Dereku

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Haven’t driven it enough to say for mileage and what not I’m sure that will be very minimal, and of all the drive shafts I’ve done I never really notice much in acceleration other than the slight slop you get from a carrier bearing so from what I know with other vehicles and can feel with this one I’d say not really faster just a smoother experience
Makes sense. I have never gone steel to aluminum before. So I was curious if that made a big difference at all.
 

Bigdmag

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I have some serious clunking and vibration going on when Im at about 25-40 MPH. The transmission is brand new so im guessing its the driveshaft. Been looking at the Knoxville one so I am glad to see someone here was able to get one on. How was the install? Pretty straight forward Im guessing, just pull the old one off and swap in the new? I pulled the old one off and re-greased the slip joint with new boot and all that jazz but it didn't seem to help much so Im thinking a single piece will do the trick. The new transmission feels smooth since the re-build but that vibration/clunking at certian speeds is just annoying.
 

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I have some serious clunking and vibration going on when Im at about 25-40 MPH. The transmission is brand new so im guessing its the driveshaft. Been looking at the Knoxville one so I am glad to see someone here was able to get one on. How was the install? Pretty straight forward Im guessing, just pull the old one off and swap in the new? I pulled the old one off and re-greased the slip joint with new boot and all that jazz but it didn't seem to help much so Im thinking a single piece will do the trick. The new transmission feels smooth since the re-build but that vibration/clunking at certian speeds is just annoying.
Two steps you should perform before investing in the driveshaft.

Step 1: Have you checked your transmission fluid levels? If not, invest in the FitzStick and check the level.

You can do it very easily when cold. Insure truck has sat on a flat surface overnight. Start engine, run up and down the shift gears at 5 second intervals Park to Sport and back to Park. IMMEDIATELY check the fluid level on your Fitzstick. It should be just touching the tip at 1/8". 1/4" is pushing the upper limit. If you are not seeing fluid, you're transmission fluid level is low.
1779030191116-ab.webp


Step 2: Have you tried running the TCM Learning Procedure? Each time I change the fluid I perform the procedure. It might be good to do annually just to reset things that may drift over time.

The idea is to shift gently with minimal engine RPM on a flat road. Target shift to occur at 1500-1800 RPMs for gears 1-7. Gears 8-10 require a little more throttle to reach shift points. Repeat the blue steps 6 times. You'll be amazed how much smoother the transmission behaves afterwards.

1779029661696-9l.webp


If the shift clunk is still there, time to consider the driveshaft. I love my Tom Woods driveshaft. Very smooth shifts now.

Best of luck!
 

Bigdmag

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Two steps you should perform before investing in the driveshaft.

Step 1: Have you checked your transmission fluid levels? If not, invest in the FitzStick and check the level.

You can do it very easily when cold. Insure truck has sat on a flat surface overnight. Start engine, run up and down the shift gears at 5 second intervals Park to Sport and back to Park. IMMEDIATELY check the fluid level on your Fitzstick. It should be just touching the tip at 1/8". 1/4" is pushing the upper limit. If you are not seeing fluid, you're transmission fluid level is low.
1779030191116-ab.webp


Step 2: Have you tried running the TCM Learning Procedure? Each time I change the fluid I perform the procedure. It might be good to do annually just to reset things that may drift over time.

The idea is to shift gently with minimal engine RPM on a flat road. Target shift to occur at 1500-1800 RPMs for gears 1-7. Gears 8-10 require a little more throttle to reach shift points. Repeat the blue steps 6 times. You'll be amazed how much smoother the transmission behaves afterwards.

1779029661696-9l.webp


If the shift clunk is still there, time to consider the driveshaft. I love my Tom Woods driveshaft. Very smooth shifts now.

Best of luck!

Well the transmission is newly rebuilt by Ford, it only has about 3k miles on it. I checked the fluid a week or so after I got it back and it was fine. Was planning on putting a single piece driveshaft on before the re-build as it has had that clunking/vibrations even before the tranny was re-built.
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