Global multi leaf rear spring, anybody know spring design?

[gryder]

No worries Cmar, thanks for sending those pictures. Now that Mike mentioned the bump stops being smaller than ours I think I’ll pick up a set of Icon bump stops.

I also noticed Cmar’s Ubolts are round (ours being square ) with the nuts bolting above the springs. Lot more clearance even though the shock mount is still the same as ours.

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[D Fresh]

I'm planning to install mine next weekend, along with my Fox 2.0 kit. Finally opened up the packaging to check stuff out.

Couple of questions. One of my springs has half a bushing for the rear. Can I use the factory rear two piece bushings?

I triple checked the packaging in hopes it fell out en route. No luck.

Also, as you can see I recieved a + and a -. I don't fully understand the markings. Are the +s theoretically slightly taller and intended to be installed on the fuel tank side?

My factory single leafs are both +s. And rough measuring in my questionable level garage puts the drivers side at 37 3/4" ground to fender, and the passengers side at 38 1/2". That's with an almost empty tank.

I'm going to refuel tonight and remeasure on more level ground. But if I'm getting the same rough results I'm thinking I should put the + on the drivers side and - on the passenger side? What about factory shims? Install as they are?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

 

[Pinepig]

I'm planning to install mine next weekend, along with my Fox 2.0 kit. Finally opened up the packaging to check stuff out.

Couple of questions. One of my springs has half a bushing for the rear. Can I use the factory rear two piece bushings?

I triple checked the packaging in hopes it fell out en route. No luck.

Also, as you can see I recieved a + and a -. I don't fully understand the markings. Are the +s theoretically slightly taller and intended to be installed on the fuel tank side?

My factory single leafs are both +s. And rough measuring in my questionable level garage puts the drivers side at 37 3/4" ground to fender, and the passengers side at 38 1/2". That's with an almost empty tank.

I'm going to refuel tonight and remeasure on more level ground. But if I'm getting the same rough results I'm thinking I should put the + on the drivers side and - on the passenger side? What about factory shims? Install as they are?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

The bushings are identical, I pulled mine to check to see if one was a better material than the other.

My stock springs were both "+" with a shim only on the drivers side, I put it back there. I didn't pay any attention to the new ones when I threw them in. If you are really worried about both sides being even I'd measure the truck prior then measure the new springs " arc depth " with a big straight edge across the eyes then measure from the center of the straight edge to the middle of the spring. Whichever spring has the taller measurement is the one you would want on the side of the truck with the shorter measurement. Your call on whether to put the shim back, the new springs aren't going to be the same at the originals. I suppose you could measure them too and come up with a educated guess on whether you should/shouldn't put it back. Remember to factor in that the truck ALWAYS has a driver and some fuel. How much that is towards your measurements is a guess with the tools we are all likely to have at hand.

 

[D Fresh]

The bushings are identical, I pulled mine to check to see if one was a better material than the other.

My stock springs were both "+" with a shim only on the drivers side, I put it back there. I didn't pay any attention to the new ones when I threw them in. If you are really worried about both sides being even I'd measure the truck prior then measure the new springs " arc depth " with a big straight edge across the eyes then measure from the center of the straight edge to the middle of the spring. Whichever spring has the taller measurement is the one you would want on the side of the truck with the shorter measurement. Your call on whether to put the shim back, the new springs aren't going to be the same at the originals. I suppose you could measure them too and come up with a educated guess on whether you should/shouldn't put it back. Remember to factor in that the truck ALWAYS has a driver and some fuel. How much that is towards your measurements is a guess with the tools we are all likely to have at hand.

Good to hear on the bushings.

I started this process with full intentions of doing the math to try get as close as possible to even the first time. The more I dive into it the more I'm thinking I'll put the + on the drivers side and - on the passenger side, re-install factory shims, cross my fingers, and call it a day. It's 3/4 " out of level factory, I can't end up much worse.

Is my understanding of the markings correct though? They all fall within tolerance with the +s being on the taller end and -s on the shorter end?

Also, have you got the torque values for the spring mounts?

 

[Pinepig]

Good to hear on the bushings.

I started this process with full intentions of doing the math to try get as close as possible to even the first time. The more I dive into it the more I'm thinking I'll put the + on the drivers side and - on the passenger side, re-install factory shims, cross my fingers, and call it a day. It's 3/4 " out of level factory, I can't end up much worse.

Is my understanding of the markings correct though? They all fall within tolerance with the +s being on the taller end and -s on the shorter end?

Also, have you got the torque values for the spring mounts?

They are big bolts, TIGHT is what you are going to want, I doubt you could overtighten them with a standard 1/2" ratchet. Break out the cheater bar and all bets are off.

Because I knew you were going to ask I went out and measured/checked mine, both springs are + ones, I have a full tank ATM ( no not Ass To Mouth LOL ) with a 3/8" spacer on the drivers side and I'm at 40" drivers side and 40.5 on passenger, so I'm a 1/2" out now. If I had what you have with a + and - I'd put the + on the drivers side and hope for the best assuming you measure them and there IS more arch in the + one.

 

[gryder]

Hey D Fresh, I took snapshots of the torque specs when I worked on mine.

I didn’t even know the + or - on the springs when I put them in, kinda wish I had. Oh well.

 

[D Fresh]

They are big bolts, TIGHT is what you are going to want, I doubt you could overtighten them with a standard 1/2" ratchet. Break out the cheater bar and all bets are off.

Because I knew you were going to ask I went out and measured/checked mine, both springs are + ones, I have a full tank ATM ( no not Ass To Mouth LOL ) with a 3/8" spacer on the drivers side and I'm at 40" drivers side and 40.5 on passenger, so I'm a 1/2" out now. If I had what you have with a + and - I'd put the + on the drivers side and hope for the best assuming you measure them and there IS more arch in the + one.

Hey D Fresh, to snapshots of the torque specs when I worked on mine.

I didn’t even know the + or - on the springs when I put them in, kinda wish I had. Oh well.

Perfect.

Thanks for the help guys. Looking forward to getting this done. A bit nervous. Haven't done suspension work in a decade and a half, and never on an IFS 4WD. But my BIL will be guiding me through everything and we'll be using his tools/garage. We should be good.

But also good to know you guys check the forums on Saturdays in case we run into trouble.

Gryder, have you got a link to that document? Or can you upload it?

 

[gryder]

Well I just checked to see if I had the + or - on my springs and I installed the minus on the drivers side ? and the plus on the passenger. I originally had two shims on the driver side, 1 on the passenger and installed only 1 on the driver with the new global springs. My driver side still sits lower by .25 inch, maybe less. I’m wonder if the + spring was on the driver side if that would fix it?

 

[gryder]

Here are the ranger shop manuals. This is found in the tech -> maintenance section on the forum. Just select the rear suspension manual and everything will be there.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/2019-ranger-technical-shop-manuals.1548/

Also, this is my first truck and first time working on rear leaf springs, it’s pretty straight forward. I think you’ll have no problems. I just did one side at a time.

 

[Langwilliams]

I've been watching these springs on eBay an I got an offer from the seller of $10 (Pounds) off. I looked at a house today or I'd take the offer. If I pass I might order.

 

[CO2Ranger]

My wife's gonna kill me... Seller on ebay is uk_car_parts_direct yes?

 

[Cmar]

Well I just checked to see if I had the + or - on my springs and I installed the minus on the drivers side ? and the plus on the passenger. I originally had two shims on the driver side, 1 on the passenger and installed only 1 on the driver with the new global springs. My driver side still sits lower by .25 inch, maybe less. I’m wonder if the + spring was on the driver side if that would fix it?

I imagine that's probably right you want the slightly lower spring on the driver's side to allow for the road camber.

 

[gryder]

CO2Ranger, yes that is the correct seller on ebay.

 

[CO2Ranger]

CO2Ranger, yes that is the correct seller on ebay.

Ordered. I have the Fox 2.0 as well. @Pinepig talked me into it ?

 

[Pinepig]

Perfect.

Thanks for the help guys. Looking forward to getting this done. A bit nervous. Haven't done suspension work in a decade and a half, and never on an IFS 4WD. But my BIL will be guiding me through everything and we'll be using his tools/garage. We should be good.

But also good to know you guys check the forums on Saturdays in case we run into trouble.

Gryder, have you got a link to that document? Or can you upload it?

On the front, take the lower A-arm out from the camber adjustment bolts, just pivot it down, slide the coilover out, slide the new one in and pivot it back up to avoid the dreaded axle separation issue, it'll save you time too.


On the rear do one side at a time, don't do the shock and the spring at the same time, do the shock, then do the spring, having the shock in will help you keep the axle in the general area you need it rather than flopping around.

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