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EGR DPFE Sensor Assembly Replacement Write-Up (LB5Z-9J433-B)

Dereku

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Intake valve cleaning might be an option for those experiencing stumbling and hesitation. Just a thought.
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Arccra12

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Intake valve cleaning might be an option for those experiencing stumbling and hesitation. Just a thought.
I did think about that. It's just not giving many signs that it's there. It is, however, one thing I can give a shot.
 

chriskm1968

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I've had the same problems described here so I ordered a DPFE sensor.
Mine is a 2019. I'll let you guys know how it goes. It was worth 100.00 to try.
Great info on this site!
 


Arccra12

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So I got it today and put it on and WOW what a difference! Like others on here I never had a CEL!
Thanks for the great info guys!
Did you use the whole assembly or just the sensor? Mine did not have anything change and dod have water in it. I only changed the sensor and debating if it's worth trying the whole assembly.
 

chriskm1968

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Did you use the whole assembly or just the sensor? Mine did not have anything change and dod have water in it. I only changed the sensor and debating if it's worth trying the whole assembly.
I bought the whole assembly.
 

porktyme

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2019 bucking ranger. put in new sensor, problem went away. throwing this out there for you all the think about. what if the sensor barbs were perpendicular to the ground, water condensate would drain better.

looking at the sensor it's tilted toward the rear of the engine, and also tilted toward the centerline of the engine. would be easy to create an adapter to correct the mis-orientation. a bubble level would help orient the sensor properly.
 

chriskm1968

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I've had the same problems described here so I ordered a DPFE sensor.
Mine is a 2019. I'll let you guys know how it goes. It was worth 100.00 to try.
Great info on this site!
Update: I had only replaced the DPFE and it was awesome but like Trashpanda I ordered the MAPT and IAT and got even more of an improvement!
Gosh! I didn't know my truck was running that bad!!!
Now all I need to do is grease the propeller shaft.
I am seriously considering getting the Motocraft air/oil seperator.
 

TJC

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I have to dual port UPR catch can, and I still had to replace mine at 20K miles. I did go through 2 very hard thunderstorms in SC. It was raining so hard that the truck severely stumbled when starting from a stop at a traffic light... from water ingestion that had settled in the intercooler, a known problem.

It almost stalled the engine!

A Fla Panhandle F150 3.5 V6 owner actually traded his truck in over this issue after nearly being hit when his truck stalled in the intersection during a hard N Fla down poor. He was pulling a loaded horse trailer. Stated he needed his truck to be dependable even in Fla rainstorms. It rains often, hard, and heavy in North Florida!

As I stated, this has occurred in my Ranger on two separate occasions, under identical circumstances.

I can see moisture finding its way into the EGR system. It also showed up in my catch can, 75% full when I arrived home 250 miles later, so it made it way into the crankcase as well.

I've got >10K miles on the Rock Auto $19 replacement with no issues. But have not had the truck out in any storm since that was close to that level of rain.
 

Arccra12

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My situation went to hell fast. Finally threw a code after it started losing power distribution, getting stuck in gear, not wanting to shift in gear at all or stuck in neutral. Eventually shifts in gear. Threw P07F6-00 which points to trans range sensor or egr valve sensor.

I was planning.on trading it in after seeing the horror stories.

I am wondering if drying one out and swapping multiple times can help clear moisture? I am thinking of making sure my oem is dry and putting it back in or i'm buying the whole assembly and swapping again. As I am thinking, maybe there is just too much moisture in the system. And the second one, it had moisture in it almost immediately.

- after sitting for almost 2 days, it seemed to run a little better. But light symptoms still. The only saying I can seem to correlate is the amount of condensation on the cooler above it so far. The times it was the worst, it was the hottest out and had the most condensation on the cooler.

I am meeting with the dealer tomorrow so I need to make some choices fast.
 

TJC

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You change your fluid at 18,000 miles wow.
I'm going to get the full assembly just in case from one of the Ford locations or parts stores.
The fact that you received the Bucking after you changed your fluid as well as mine was better for a day when I changed the part still has me leaning the sensor. Tune up and servicenis due. I'm just stuck trying to decide to put some money into it or trading it in.

My symptoms are exactly what everyone describes. So I will try again to be safe. I love the truck but my patience with this bucking will not last much longer.
-replace whole assembly this time
-tune up, plugs and coils
-ford 75k service
-fluid change myself, Ford or Tuffy
* fuel filter or intake is the only other thing that could possibly cause it I would think. Thanks for any help or data
My transmission issues started mild at 5K miles. By 18K miles I deemed driving the truck to be too dangerous to continue. The bucking, missed shifts, not releasing when coming to a stop, then abruptly jerking were just a few of the symptoms. I can't overstate how bad it was. I changed the fluid and added LubeGard Platinum as a last result. Doing so cured 99% of the transmission problems. I changed the fluid again 2K later, and again at 7K later. It is now 92% clean, and has a new filter in as well.. The first flush the fluid was black as coal!

I've got 10K miles on the truck since I began the fluid changes, and the truck has been shifting flawlessly since.

I only had mild bucking at low RPMs which was far different than the transmission issues.
 

Arccra12

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My transmission issues started mild at 5K miles. By 18K miles I deemed driving the truck to be too dangerous to continue. The bucking, missed shifts, not releasing when coming to a stop, then abruptly jerking were just a few of the symptoms. I can't overstate how bad it was. I changed the fluid and added LubeGard Platinum as a last result. Doing so cured 99% of the transmission problems. I changed the fluid again 2K later, and again at 7K later. It is now 92% clean, and has a new filter in as well.. The first flush the fluid was black as coal!

I've got 10K miles on the truck since I began the fluid changes, and the truck has been shifting flawlessly since.

I only had mild bucking at low RPMs which was far different than the transmission issues.
I dried my cooler and drove today without the ac. It did do a little better. I can't imagine that being the issue but it.is a possibility. I have appointment with dealer tomorrow but I am heavily debating slow playing a trade, quickly trading, giving them a shot to repair if a loaner is given to push a trade
My transmission issues started mild at 5K miles. By 18K miles I deemed driving the truck to be too dangerous to continue. The bucking, missed shifts, not releasing when coming to a stop, then abruptly jerking were just a few of the symptoms. I can't overstate how bad it was. I changed the fluid and added LubeGard Platinum as a last result. Doing so cured 99% of the transmission problems. I changed the fluid again 2K later, and again at 7K later. It is now 92% clean, and has a new filter in as well.. The first flush the fluid was black as coal!

I've got 10K miles on the truck since I began the fluid changes, and the truck has been shifting flawlessly since.

I only had mild bucking at low RPMs which was far different than the transmission issues.
My situation went to hell fast. Finally threw a code after it started losing power distribution, getting stuck in gear, not wanting to shift in gear at all or stuck in neutral. Eventually shifts in gear. Threw P07F6-00 which points to trans range sensor or egr valve sensor.

I was planning.on trading it in after seeing the horror stories.

I am wondering if drying one out and swapping multiple times can help clear moisture? I am thinking of making sure my oem is dry and putting it back in or i'm buying the whole assembly and swapping again. As I am thinking, maybe there is just too much moisture in the system. And the second one, it had moisture in it almost immediately.

- after sitting for almost 2 days, it seemed to run a little better. But light symptoms still. The only saying I can seem to correlate is the amount of condensation on the cooler above it so far. The times it was the worst, it was the hottest out and had the most condensation on the cooler.

I am meeting with the dealer tomorrow so I need to make some choices fast.
Still working through this and a possible trade.

However there is only one correlation as mine is a little better. I started driving without the ac. Seems a direct correlation to amount of moisture off the ac line in which my code kinda pointed to.

It only got super bad the day the mechanics were looking at it and they had changed my ac settings and also 100 degrees outside that day. This thing has always had more water underneath than anything I have seen.

I secured the harness some with electrical tape and used a little monster repellant near the harness. I also plan to check and recharge my ac system. Tomorrow I will have aamco look at it.

Thw more I look at new trucks the more I want mine fixed rather than trade TBH.
 

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I finally joined the club and just installed my sensor I ordered a few weeks ago. Very happy I did. My truck began to stall constantly while taking off and going low speeds. Very happy.
 

got3fords

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Bastards! I just ordered the sensor, whether I need it or not. I'll probably procrastinate putting it on, but at least I'll have it on hand if I really need it.
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