Yes it does, I have an aftermarket remote starter that uses the factory fob because the app is unreliable, the AC/heat is turned on when I remote start with a fob.
Makes no sense doing that, you realize when the truck is engaging the starter there is no power being applied to equipment such as the blower motor correct?
This is sort of funny, but my wife just asked if she should upgrade. This year, she says, is better for her taxes if she buys a EV car. We're not buying an EV because we're moving to a place (WV) with no infrastructure, but PHEV will work. So, now, my new task is to find her a new Volvo. I'm sort of a anal, researcher, planner. This is what I do best. The game is on!We (she) bought it new in 2002. The first time I drove it, I was like, yeah, this is nice. It's been trouble free for the most part, nothing major. 110k on it now. The wiper motor is sort of noisy, but it still works. I drove it the other day, and while it's still nice, it needs an upgrade after driving the truck for a few months. I didn't say anything to her because she wants to buy a new one when she retires, which may be anywhere between tomorrow and a few years.
We're both going to get PHEV and then drive them until we're dead, which may be anywhere between tomorrow and a few years
Maybe more appropriate: NM ?Even the garages are no relief from this heat. The temp gauge (garage temps) on the truck will read in triple digits in the mornings when I leave for work. Now I know it's not 100% accurate but it's not uncommon for the truck to be that hot just sitting in the garage.
I hate to tell you but the pool water won't be much better. When it's 110+ outside that water will be like a big ol hot tub. lol Get yourself a big fan and turn it on when you get out as that'll be the only relief. Now night swimming is much better without the blaring sun beating down on you.
When you get back you might have to change your screen name to AzScorpion-2.??
Even the garages are no relief from this heat. The temp gauge (garage temps) on the truck will read in triple digits in the mornings when I leave for work. Now I know it's not 100% accurate but it's not uncommon for the truck to be that hot just sitting in the garage.
I hate to tell you but the pool water won't be much better. When it's 110+ outside that water will be like a big ol hot tub. lol Get yourself a big fan and turn it on when you get out as that'll be the only relief. Now night swimming is much better without the blaring sun beating down on you.
When you get back you might have to change your screen name to AzScorpion-2.
Even the garages are no relief from this heat. The temp gauge (garage temps) on the truck will read in triple digits in the mornings when I leave for work. Now I know it's not 100% accurate but it's not uncommon for the truck to be that hot just sitting in the garage.
I hate to tell you but the pool water won't be much better. When it's 110+ outside that water will be like a big ol hot tub. lol Get yourself a big fan and turn it on when you get out as that'll be the only relief. Now night swimming is much better without the blaring sun beating down on you.
When you get back you might have to change your screen name to AzScorpion-2.
Even the garages are no relief from this heat. The temp gauge (garage temps) on the truck will read in triple digits in the mornings when I leave for work. Now I know it's not 100% accurate but it's not uncommon for the truck to be that hot just sitting in the garage.
I hate to tell you but the pool water won't be much better. When it's 110+ outside that water will be like a big ol hot tub. lol Get yourself a big fan and turn it on when you get out as that'll be the only relief. Now night swimming is much better without the blaring sun beating down on you.
When you get back you might have to change your screen name to AzScorpion-2.
It took 6 pages for anybody to mention it but this is a valid argument for turning off AC before shutdown. By extension, overall lower under-hood temps will reduce the long term effects of turbo coking.
Yeah, back in the day I figured out to turn the key to ON so the electric choke got power, pump the gas to the floor once, then turn the key. Most of the time that worked but if it didn't by the third try then it was flooded and you were screwed. Then you had to hold the gas pedal to the floor, counter-intuitive I know, and crank it until the flooding cleared out. Then try it again by which time you'd blow a lot of smoke and raw gas out the tailpipe and you smelled like you just got done walking behind a lawnmower.
Keep it waxed. Even Oxford White will oxidize and turn chalky over timeYesterday, I touched the Saber paint surface of the Truck in the heat of the day and it surprisingly was not as hot as expected...hopefully this will help prevent any serious sun damage. Pray for
.
TURN IT DOWN!
Unless you have the ignition in ACC, all the ancillary electric and electronic components, except for the lights, don't power up until a few seconds after the vehicle is running.
Definitely. Several months ago, I did a clay bar and wax to the hood before installing the AVS Bug Deflector. What did you do to your Ranger today? | Page 445 | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com I am getting ready to do the same for the rest of the paint surface now that summer is on. This especially has to be followed carefully when you are in a dry, hot desert area or you can say goodbye to the paint job. I always keep this up on my vehicles. The 2011 Ranger that was exchanged for this one had a like new paint surface when she went in
Must be a Volvo/Detroit thing. Caterpillar, Paccar and Cummins diesels don't have this and will go >1M mi. before an overhaul incl. turbo change-out. With ultra low sulphur Diesel 2 running in a modern SCR diesel, (2010 or newer), turbo failures results as much or more from manufacturing defects than any temperature related problems. Air-to-air & oil or water cooled turbos control and shed excess heat almost as rapidly as it builds.
