Charging Sys-Full Description-Trigger Voltages-Test Results

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airline tech

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Just a FYI, I did another edit to my post, for this, since I do not have any specific temperature documentation of when it actually switches over to the higher voltage. I wanted to include the full range that you may see as not to confuse someone.
This charge mode is based on the fact that a cold battery requires a higher charge voltage as it is harder to get the battery to accept it.

Daytime Driving: around 44d and below (Mode 2)

You will see a constant voltage (Edit: between 13.5-14.4 volts) and steady with no drop in voltage at stoplights, and the charge boost during deceleration is minimal-if any at all. Note at start up you will see an initial charge voltage in the 14’s until the battery is above 75% SOC.
 

got3fords

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Ok, sounds normal, and by the voltage (driving) I am thinking temp was around 32 deg or below.

Just to clarify, when I say coasting downhill, I am referring to still in drive, and the rotation of the drive axles (while coasting) is providing an engine braking effect which will enhance the boost charge.
So, neutral will have no effect as the driveline will be disconnected - (motive power wise)
And, since you were already in the 14's charging range, you only will see a small boost charge if any at all.
Yes, understood. I wanted to see what if any difference there was from coasting in Drive vs. Nuetral. However the outside temp was about 50f.
 

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Trigganometry

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Thanks Rick I just ordered it. Now that my new battery is 2 years old it'll be good to start monitoring it better.
Pretty sad really, our old style ones even in the NE weather you could get 5 to 8 years out of them before they lost their mojo. Today, well that’s the future for you! So much for sustainable value and reduced carbon footprint. ??
 

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@ airline tech

So do you think wet batteries should be at 90%-95%?
 
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If were taking about old school Lead Acid, yes, I have not had any experience with the AGM's so for me it's a learning curve, my experience with AGM's is just what I have read about them, and they have a different charging requirement, and from my little test that I did, I should not be smelling a battery being charged with outside temps that low. It was a definite battery off gassing smell, not overpowering but noted, while driving, all through the courtesy of the big air inlet recert door, if you ever hit the wiper washer fluid switch while driving, you'll know what I am talking about, nice big blast of smelling the washer fluid. But since I want it to fact based, I have to Forscan monitor the battery temp to see if it actually climb's while in those charging modes.
 

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Airline Tech,

Thanks so MUCH!
I have reread it multiple times and catch more and more info.
I am one of the drivers in that category of short start stop drives weekly. Then tow bassboat bi-monthly for about 14-16 miles roundtrip. So that is probably my reprieve.
I am still on the factory battery and have 2 1/2 years on it.
I have used the battery maintainer but only a few times in the past.
I disabled A/S/S a few months after i got the ranger.
I have looked at several voltage powerport type monitors and have always wondered about the accuracy.
I am going to look at the threshold setting in ForScan to see if it's 70 or 75%.
I've had the vehicle go into deep sleep three times in the past.
All my added electrical dependent MODs are de-energized when truck is shutdown. Still OLD school and use different type switches/relays to activate components or modules.
Since I am in the short drive category (5871 miles total since new) I will now monitor this closely and get back to forum.

Thanks again
 

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If were taking about old school Lead Acid, yes, I have not had any experience with the AGM's so for me it's a learning curve, my experience with AGM's is just what I have read about them, and they have a different charging requirement, and from my little test that I did, I should not be smelling a battery being charged with outside temps that low. It was a definite battery off gassing smell, not overpowering but noted, while driving, all through the courtesy of the big air inlet recert door, if you ever hit the wiper washer fluid switch while driving, you'll know what I am talking about, nice big blast of smelling the washer fluid. But since I want it to fact based, I have to Forscan monitor the battery temp to see if it actually climb's while in those charging modes.
Yep, old school bat.
Thanks for all the data, its nice to see some numbers with theory of how it works
 

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I did a small edit, included less than 300Ma draw, required for the BMS, recalibration, and that this is the reason that a nightlight will disable the recalibration process thus disabling A/Start, a popular little modification.
I'm curious how you came to this conclusion?

The nightlight plugs into the inverter in the rear console. This isn't powered unless the vehicle is running (might just be in run position), but is never powered with the vehicle off. How did you get any idea that this would cause draw on power off?
 
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Oh, crap you are correct, I was focused on both things at the same time, meaning that the nightlight will disable A/Start when running, due to the draw greater than 10 amps, the Recalibration. has to have less than 300Ma
Good catch on my screw-up, Thanks

Noted and corrected my original post
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