Catch Can Reviews

[MountainGoat]

BTW - I picked up a dual port UPR can for $225 - stage 3 motorsports sales. In retrospect not needed , and how many mfg are not producing DI engines these days , despite the dire predictions from the likes of savage geese.

That's good. It so easy to change the oil doing it every 5k is not a big deal instead of dealing with a can, especially if it can cause problems of it's own.

Not gonna lie... the fake sound is dumb haha. But it doesn't bother me. And everyone has their own opinions, and its obvious Svagenes just hates Fords, he all but said it in his video. Most reviews are pretty fair, but this one seems like he has a personal vendetta vs Ford. With that said........ i do think even though i paid 36k for mine, i think it shoulda been priced around 30k ish, but then again i think all cars are overpriced.

I turned the fake engine noise off with Forscan. Even though I didn't really notice it before with it off I immediately noticed the interior was quieter and the stereo sounds better. I did the engine cover at the same time which helps with noise too.

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[Dgc333]

Do you think the dual valve makes a difference over the single?

Most of the time you are driving off boost (maybe 95% of the time) so there is vacuum in the intake manifold that is pulling the fumes from the crankcase through the catch can via the PCV Valve. When you go into boost the the PCV Valve shuts off so that boost pressure doesn't pressurize the crank case.

The dual valve catch can through the use of extra check valves makes use of the low pressure area Infront of the turbo compressor to create a vacuum signal that will pull fumes from the crank case when the engine is under boost through the catch can.

You will need to decide for your self if the extra cost of the dual valve catch can is worth it to be functional for those brief spurts of time the engine is under boost.

Keep in mind that if you are creating positive crank case pressure under boost it is vented through through the clean side line that runs from the rocker cover to the hose connecting to the turbo compressor inlet. The UPR dual valve catch can is still going to let some oily fumes through and dump it into the intake anyway. No bodies catch can is 100% effective.

 

[lawrench]

After doing some research, and reading reviews, I think I will go with the Mountune solution.

https://www.mountuneusa.com/Mountune-Catch-Can-System-Ford-Ranger-p/1400-cc-aa.htm


In the video, the host does seem to talk much about people who do not think a catch can is needed.

I also know the Mountune catch can kit is quite expensive, but if I am going to keep this truck for a while, I want to make sure I can keep the engine as clean as possible.

 

[Dr3wDrop]

After doing some research, and reading reviews, I think I will go with the Mountune solution.

https://www.mountuneusa.com/Mountune-Catch-Can-System-Ford-Ranger-p/1400-cc-aa.htm


In the video, the host does seem to talk much about people who do not think a catch can is needed.

I also know the Mountune catch can kit is quite expensive, but if I am going to keep this truck for a while, I want to make sure I can keep the engine as clean as possible.

I watched a review on that one too. Only thing I did not like was the paper filters.

 

[sandog]

When I got my Ranger I traded in a 2013 Escape with 130K on it, and it had crudded up intake valves.
I didn't want that to happen to this new engine if I could help it.
The UPR Dual was $260 from Stage 3.
2019-2022 Ford Ranger 2.3L EcoBoost Oil Catch Cans (stage3motorsports.com)
They also carry the Mishimoto cans. On any of the cans, the most difficult ( O.K. the only difficult part) will be getting to those two fittings on the side of the engine for the PCV hoses.
My right hand looked like I had stuck it in a Bobcat's mouth.

If I'd had some fingerless gloves like for golf or shooting that would have protected my hand from the sharp stuff in there while still allowing my fingers to operate freely.
One thing that did help was using one of those tiny mirrors with a telescoping handle to see where the old hoses disconnects and the new ones will connect.


My decision to get the UPR Dual can was based on discussion from a Mustang owners thread, that the dual system works when the engine is under boost while the single does not.
But as Dgc333 pointed out above, you're not going to be under boost much.

 

[Mishimoto]

Hey Guys,

Sorry to hear that some of you are having trouble with our catch can lines! Please don't hesitate to reach out to us either on here or drop a line to our customer experience team so we can get a new set of lines to you and work on improving our products.

Apologies for the inconvenience, guys!

-Nick

 

[lawrench]

Hey Guys,

Sorry to hear that some of you are having trouble with our catch can lines! Please don't hesitate to reach out to us either on here or drop a line to our customer experience team so we can get a new set of lines to you and work on improving our products.

Apologies for the inconvenience, guys!

-Nick

I cannot speak for everyone, but with the difficulty installing the hoses, I would not want to have to remove the old hoses and put in new hoses more than once.

I would think using quality hoses to begin with would be preferable then having to install, then replace hoses.

 

[mailbox4449]

I cannot speak for everyone, but with the difficulty installing the hoses, I would not want to have to remove the old hoses and put in new hoses more than once.

I would think using quality hoses to begin with would be preferable then having to install, then replace hoses.

Exactly!!

 

[Utope]

I have the Mishimoto can. In the cold it collects a lot of condensation. Below freezing it needs to be emptied about every other day. After driving for 30 minutes, the can is still cold to the touch. I mounted it on the radiator support as listed in the instructions. It does still catch oil and gas vapors. In the warmer months it can go much longer without being checked.

When emptying I unscrew the can rather than the drain plug. When it’s cold it’s a bear to get off and not too bad when it’s warmer.

 

[Trigganometry]

After researching this myself I came to two conclusions. 1st, for what’s out there and what they cost I can build a superior one for less money than the best one offered. So far I have about $50 bucks in materials and some machine time making it. 2nd, the hoses offered for most kits out there are just rubber and vapors will “sweat” through these types of hose. A PTFE lined hose will not smell or degrade over time. This is the type of hose used on AN fittings for fuel and brake lines. Only problem is hooking up the quick change fittings to them that attach onto the crank case engine cover. Again, it can be done but a major PITA.

I’m wrapping mine up and need to send it all out to get hard coat anodized. It holds about a pint of fluid before it triggers a sensor that alerts me to empty it. I’ll do a YouTube video of it when I do the install and assembly.

 

[2021Ranger]

After researching this myself I came to two conclusions. 1st, for what’s out there and what they cost I can build a superior one for less money than the best one offered. So far I have about $50 bucks in materials and some machine time making it. 2nd, the hoses offered for most kits out there are just rubber and vapors will “sweat” through these types of hose. A PTFE lined hose will not smell or degrade over time. This is the type of hose used on AN fittings for fuel and brake lines. Only problem is hooking up the quick change fittings to them that attach onto the crank case engine cover. Again, it can be done but a major PITA.

I’m wrapping mine up and need to send it all out to get hard coat anodized. It holds about a pint of fluid before it triggers a sensor that alerts me to empty it. I’ll do a YouTube video of it when I do the install and assembly.

old post but did you ever do a review on the can you made?

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