Bucking/Surging Epidemic

[AzScorpion]

Good evening everyone!

Has anyone paid a dealer to replace the EGR sensor?

Curious what they charged.

Thanks in advance.

Rich, I haven't but bought one in case for when it happens. I do remember reading that some dealers had no clue about this. They were replacing torque converters and other things when it was a simple $40.00 part and a 15 minute fix.

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[MagnetiK]

I'm a bit confused. Some of you said you replaced the sensor. Others have said the replaced the EGR valve?

I changed the flow sensor and the shifting was perfect. The longer I drove it, the problem returned. My old sensor had some water inside.

I'm wondering if it is the whole unit that is causing the sensor to get wet then it starts acting up?

 

[RangerBill]

I'm a bit confused. Some of you said you replaced the sensor. Others have said the replaced the EGR valve?

It is the EGR pressure transducer (sensor) that causes the issue, not the EGR valve. Many have stated the EGR valve when they meant the sensor.

 

[MagnetiK]

What is causing the sensor to get wet though? Is that normal?

 

[doug910]

What is causing the sensor to get wet though? Is that normal?

Mine wasn't noticeably wet but was still the culprit of all my misfiring. Could just be bad quality control on the part, who knows. Either way, it's a cheap part that's easy to replace so can't hurt to give it a shot.

 

[JDCinVA]

Thanks! I guess maybe I'm one of the "lucky ones" whose issue goes beyond this sensor. Or, I had a near immediate failure of my replacement of this craptastic part.

Interestingly, with the arrival of colder weather, my issues seems to have gone away.

 

[JeffWoodall]

I have had this problem for a few months now, primarily driving up these mountain roads. Plan on ordering at least one of these. From reading everything I have read, it seems obvious that this is something that Ford has wasted a lot of money on and still hasn't figured out yet. Has anyone sent Ford all of this information? A couple of people, OK, it's a fluke, but there has to be something to this, just way too many people affected that replace this part and it's fixed.

 

[jwtayl01]

I am currently having this issue. About a month ago it was so bad it threw a CEL (O2 sensor code - P0131). I changed erg sensor with no change in performance. The CEL cleared itself and finally got it into the dealer and they said it was a bad O2 sensor. The part is on order and I should have it back tomorrow.

I'm hopeful, but not optimistic.

2019 Lariat with ~35K miles

 

[oubbascooba]

DFPE Sensor. not EGR sensor. Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor.

 

[jwtayl01]

I am currently having this issue. About a month ago it was so bad it threw a CEL (O2 sensor code - P0131). I changed erg sensor with no change in performance. The CEL cleared itself and finally got it into the dealer and they said it was a bad O2 sensor. The part is on order and I should have it back tomorrow.

I'm hopeful, but not optimistic.

2019 Lariat with ~35K miles

Quick update after a few hundred miles with the new O2 sensor. Running much better, surge/bucking gone. I did disconnect the battery to reset the "learning" transmission and it is shifting better. Overall the vehicle seems to be back to "normal". The sensor was NOT covered under warranty, but was under the extended warranty with a $100 deductible which pissed me off a bit...

 

[JeffWoodall]

Yes. Mine came with the ring same as yours, might have to ask you later which hose goes to where, when it's time to install.

I ordered this part and received it in 4 days. I’ve looked at the old one and wanted to ask this: can’t you just take the bolt off, cut the hoses well below the top clamps, making the bottom connection for the old hoses easier to see and get off? I’ve read where people cut the top clamps, etc. I’m thinking I’ll just use wire cutters on the hoses and get the sensor off, then disconnect at the lower end. This is the easiest way, correct? I may be missing something. Thanks. Enjoy this site and the knowledge gained.

 

[BladeRanger]

I ordered this part and received it in 4 days. I’ve looked at the old one and wanted to ask this: can’t you just take the bolt off, cut the hoses well below the top clamps, making the bottom connection for the old hoses easier to see and get off? I’ve read where people cut the top clamps, etc. I’m thinking I’ll just use wire cutters on the hoses and get the sensor off, then disconnect at the lower end. This is the easiest way, correct? I may be missing something. Thanks. Enjoy this site and the knowledge gained.

I haven't replace mine, I went to a 30K miles service and they did a fuel induction cleaning. The tiny bucking that I feel is gone. I notice that the dealer recommended to do the fuel induction service every 10k miles after 30K. I need to learn how to do the induction next since it rides like new again.
I'll check what the easiest way to replace the sensor but @AzScorpion had ideas that might make it easier. Since I lifted my truck it's not easy to reach the sensor.

 

[jwtayl01]

I ordered this part and received it in 4 days. I’ve looked at the old one and wanted to ask this: can’t you just take the bolt off, cut the hoses well below the top clamps, making the bottom connection for the old hoses easier to see and get off? I’ve read where people cut the top clamps, etc. I’m thinking I’ll just use wire cutters on the hoses and get the sensor off, then disconnect at the lower end. This is the easiest way, correct? I may be missing something. Thanks. Enjoy this site and the knowledge gained.

This may be easier, but I just used a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled the clamps back and it wasn't too difficult to get the tubes off after unbolt. You may have more trouble if you cut the tubes as the sensor and tubing give you something to grab onto.

As for a lifted truck, I'm not too tall and used a stool on my un-lifted truck.

All in all, it still fairly straight forward any way you do it.

 

[JeffWoodall]

I replaced my sensor today. Wasn't bad at all, 15 minutes literally and a few scratches later, it's done. I cut my old one in half and there was definitely moisture in the casing. There didn't seem to be any on the little electronic chip inside, to the naked eye, but I assume no moisture at all should be inside anywhere.

 

[Ranger Lariat]

I'm going to attempt to fix everything I can and only go to the dealership when it's the last option.

EVERYTHING, for EVERY vehicle I've ever owned. There are two (three? warrantee work?) reasons to go to a dealer.

1) Something "too big", or something that requires SST (Special Service Tools) that you don't have or don't want to buy.

2) Something that you say "well, it's the 'dealer' so when they screw something up* I'll just make them pay for / fix" (hopefully when they 'fix' they don't screw even MORE up**).

There are two problems with dealers (and most service depts. for that matter). First, the faster they do a job the better the specific mechanic looks, and secondly the better the dealership looks. You(?) and I spent a lot of money on a vehicle, and I can't afford to replace them too often. So, I like to keep mine looking and performing "like new" as long as I can. Normally for me that means the 15+ years I keep a vehicle. Dealerships (and independent) don't "care" as much as owners do. I spent plenty on my 2002 LARIAT / TREMOR.

Now... if only FORD put the windshield in right. I mean FORD has been making cars / trucks a long time, you'd think they'd have that down by now. Same with fixing this sensor problem. "Built FORD Tough"??? Ha!

* I'd say in a life time of owning vehicles this happens to me more than 50% of dealer services I've had done.

** I've had this happen at least 50% of the 50% times I've had service done.

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